Builds Engr 88 Pickup - 22RE Megasquirt turbo build

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It lives

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What a tease of a post. Drivable or got it started and needs tuning to drive?

Driving! Wastegate came in around 12PSI so I want to adjust that back down and work my way up slowly with the fueling/timing maps. Was knocking last night so I pulled a bunch of timing out and am just working on getting reasonable fuel - right now running pig rich 10:1 to avoid meltdown.

It's pretty fast. I'm happy. Lots of tuning and datalogs to follow before hooking up the MAC valve boost control solenoid and then off to the dyno
 
Bad news. T25 internal wastegate causing boost creep.

I've read about it on miata forums- they end up using a dremel to enlarge the port.

Even with the wastegate rod disconnected I make 16PSI at 4000rpm. Stock fuel pump is limiting too, 550cc injector duty cycle is at 100% and getting lean at 16psi 4000rpm

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Some good news-

Radiator and fan are handling the heat rejection.
50-60F outside and the coolant temp is flatlined at 190F on all data logs and doesn't increase on boosted pulls.
Intake manifold air temps (not intercooler outlet) are +20F over ambient so the intercooler seems to be well sized and not getting heat soaked from the radiator.
Part throttle pulls the wastegate is holding 7psi

Had some fun with 0-60 times on the cellphone app for reference:
The pickup when it was NA prior to boost: 13.7 seconds
The pickup now with 7psi part throttle: 9.81 seconds
My '93 land cruiser 16.18 seconds
Wife's 04 GX470 is 8.99
 
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New to do list :

Valve cover powder coat
Port wastegate housing
Install fuel pump
Wire bosch knock sensor
Rebuild transfer case and drive shaft

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Current AFRs on the 20 minute drive to work
If this turbo can hold boost out to redline I will be very impressed, 7PSI by 2400RPM!
At the start of this project my goal was to be able to hold 5th gear up hills and pass other cars on the highway. It has surpassed all expectations and I'm glad I chose this route instead of engine swap.
 
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Had quite a few oil leaks from unexpected places. Unhooked the crankcase vent lines from the catch can and they all stopped.

The can had this brass sintered metal filter in it that I removed. I also modified the baffle to try and improve the oil separation. We'll see if it helps.

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There's another catch can thread in the 80 section. Someone posted that brillo pad type material works well. I may try it on my 6.7 Cummins.
Yes I have heard the same from friends. I plan on stuffing a stainless pad above the baffle
 
Has to contribute as the garden compost, chicken bedding, mulch hauler before taking it back out of commission

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Knock knock!

Trying to figure out megasquirt gen2 knock settings. You have 3 trim pots under the case to adjust- gain, "start" and "slope"

I think my strategy here is to adjust gain and start until ADC6 is around 100-200 and then do pulls with very late timing to adjust the slope and establish the knock floor

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ADC7 - knock input pin values when driving around with very retarded/safe timing. Seems like the knock floor (base engine noise) is between 50-150 'counts'
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When I intentionally advance timing beyond reason: Spikes over 200 were knock
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My current timing before installing the knock sensor:

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What does this all mean?
There are a few spots in my current setpoint table that I need to retard timing and get below what I'm calling a 150 knock limit.

Will this be able to detect knock and pull timing? Possibly...
But what it does do is allow me to raise boost and advance timing until my ADC7 is in that 75-150 window.

I followed MS2's manual for setting the ADC6 based on the trim pots under the cover...
Gain - didn't do a thing as far as I could tell
Start - brought my idle ADC6 from 0/1 up to 100
Slope - made my ADC6 go from crazy noise to less noise, I slowly turned it down.
None of these readings did anything vs engine speed.

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What kind of mpg’s have you been getting since the turbo?
~15/17 but that's with 33s and 4.10 gears. If I had the right gears it would improve significantly. Needs 1psi of boost in 5th gear to hold 70 at 2400rpm
 
Cylinder 1 plug was looking nasty, bore scope had cyl 1 piston looking steam cleaned and I thought I failed the headgasket so I took a break to work on other things..

Getting back into it and found coolant coating the cylinder 1 intake port. Reminder that I have one of the very first CNC ported heads. Talked with Jim and he said that the first batch had a core shift on the cooling jacket resulting in a thinner wall. He immediately offered to ship me another head.

Glad that it wasn't my knock detection or something I did wrong with tuning or assembly. Another set back but so it goes..

Will have time to port the wastegate and install a bigger fuel pump

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Pulled the head off. Didn't love what I was feeling on cylinder 4, the piston seemed to rock amd twist in the bore (fuel hydrolock cylinder)

Dropped the transmission and transfer case to rebuild the transfer case. Pulled the engine out. Pistons and rods looked and felt fine after removing cyl 1 and 4.. Hmmm...
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Rod bearings looked fine but I bought a new set of kings anyways and reassembled the bottom end.

Disassembled the head and shipped the parts off to Jim.

Didn't love how the cometic looked on disassembly so I am trying this SCE Titan copper gasket. Steel fire ring and better overmolding for coolant/oil.

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