Builds Engr Build Thread (1 Viewer)

[EngEngr]

The day of purchase March 2017

Summer 2023

1993 FZJ80 246,000
OEM diff locks
CDL switch
OME 851 Front
OME 860 Rear
OME 60018 Front
OME 60020 Rear
OME Caster bushings
OME steering damper
Plugs, wires, cap, air filter
Front main seal and oil pump seal
Coolant hoses
Rear heater delete
Coolant
F/R Gear oil
Brake fluid
Transfer case gear oil
Power steering fluid
Transfer case input shaft seal
Power steering pump rebuild and new lines
Dual battery blue sea 7622
Snomaster 72L dual zone fridge
Slee braided brake lines
EBC yellow stuff pads
EBC dimple and slotted rotors
SCS F5 17X9
Yokohama Geolandar MT G003 35x12.5R17
555 tie rod kit
Birfield rebuild, pinion and wheel bearings, seals
Sumo 10% under drive
Trail gear 3:1 low
F/R Output shaft bearing and seals
Diono 3RXT front facing
Diono 3RXT front facing
Chico keyfit 30
Head gasket, water pump, thermostat, oil cooler gasket, hoses, pcv, power steering reservoir, desmog, harness wrap, injectors cleaned, new electrical connectors
Dobinson MRAs
Scheelmann vario F driver/passenger
White knuckle sliders 10deg full top plate
Seatbelt planet front belts

 

[EngEngr]

Bushings pressed out pretty easily and pressed in well. The only trouble I've ran into was when I took the final bolts out, the axle rolled forward (had ratchet straps around the axle and tow points but it rolled forward on me.

Any help on how to get the axle back inline? When I swing the arms back up to the hole, they are a good 2 inches away (and also seem to be too thick to slide into the bracket?).

edit: Front Control Arms Installation Question

 

[retrofive]

Toss a ratchet strap around the front and rear axles to pull them back inline. Pro tip, do this BEFORE you remove the arms.

EDIT: I missed your edit.

 

[LandCruisinMy93]

So, the brackets have been squeezed in under tension for 20 or more years, the likely have a slight inward taper preventing the bushings from from sliding easily in. You could slightly flare the bracket outward with maybe a length of 2x4? As far as the axle moving forward. Clarification as to which way the brackets are rolled would be helpful, but both scenarios. Pinion rolled downward,Put a ratchet strap around the axles just behind the knuckles, secure other ends to trans-cross member and ratchet tight, use floor jack and wood block to lift pinion, adjust straps and pinion until aligned. Pinion rolled upward, place ratchet straps as before, take 3rd ratchet strap and from the pinion side of axle, place strap tail over top of axle housing above the diff toward front of vehicle, wrap underneath axle and loop around pinion, secure other end to trans-cross member and tighten, as the axle rotates adjust other straps.

 

[EngEngr]

Jacking up the frame, putting it in neutral, ratchet straps and hammering got it back in line. All buttoned up amd drives great, a little stiff but that's expected.

This week will be getting 285/75R16 Duratracs and an alignment.

Had to test the canoe...

 

[EngEngr]

Another 2" OME lift with 285/75R16 Duratracs

 

[EngEngr]

back from the dead;

2017
took the LC up to Mackinaw MI, up to Grand Marais MN, and up on our annual boundary waters trip, and badlands off road in Attica IN
Rebuilt PS pump
Steering wheel wrap and sunroof button fixes
Built a box in the back for a queen inflatable mattress with the middle row folded down
Plugs/wires/cap/rotor/o-ring with OEM
bought a TIG welder

 

[EngEngr]

learning to weld...

future projects - toyota PU exhaust, LC sliders and bumpers

2018 - stop all of the leaks!
drop the transmission and transfer case
front main seal, rear main seal, T-case input shaft seal

 

[nodaksn3]

Just learning to weld? Those welds look very nice.

 

[EngEngr]

Just learning to weld? Those welds look very nice.

Lots of YouTube videos and time under the hood starring at my arc and puddle. I got it 2 months ago

 

[EngEngr]

My first attempt and project on the mill, also started on my welding table

 

[EngEngr]

227,000 miles

front main seal - 90311-52022
oil pump o ring - 15188-66020
belts - 90916-02353-83 / 99332-10910-83
screws - 15183-66020 (qty 7)

I ended up draining the coolant to get more room with the top hose/shroud/fan out of the way so I will order new radiator hoses. AC pulley bolt tensioner is also very bent. Idler pulley bearings are toast.

I used a breaker bar with aluminum jack handle extension to break the crank bolt. I was able to pin the flywheel with a 14mm deep well 6pt impact socket up against the access port.

The oil pump cover screws came out really easily - just tap the correct size phillips head with a hammer to make sure its fully seated in the screw and use a 1/4" socket on a ratchet.

 

[Rifleman]

When you reinstall the crank bolt, don't forget to remove the socket holding the bolt on the flywheel. Don't laugh, it's been forgotten by other people when they did this job, and the damage it can cause when you start the motor isn't pretty.

 

[Tedward]

I forgot to remove the socket. Turn the key for first time after the new short block. Clunk! Thought the motor was seized.
But why?
Oh yeah, the deep well socket!
Got lucky with no harm done.

 

[EngEngr]

2 inch pcv adapter fit the seal perfectly for a nice press tool. Front main and oil o ring in. Deep well socket removed. Waiting on the dealership for radiator hoses.

 

[EngEngr]

Try bringing your online Toyota parts list into the dealership and ask them to price match. 2 day shipping!

LC is almost back together

 

[scottryana]

Welds look good

 

[EngEngr]

New radiator hoses, coolant, idler pulley and AC tensioner bolt. The only leak is now from the oil pan fipg. We'll put some miles on it and see whats next.

 

[EngEngr]

1Up USA heavy duty rack in black

 

[EngEngr]

Another successful BWCA trip. This time the wife was 21 weeks pregnant