Engine Swapped 60-Series Registry

[HypocriticalHippie]

Good Day All,

I was thinking that since there seems to be at least one post a day by someone seeking info about engine swaps (diesel, LSx, LT1, Ford, etc.) that we could start a new thread that details well, the details, all in one thread. I know that using the search function brings brings up a ton of extraneous info, so I thought that it would be nice to keep it simple.

1. Engine
2. Tranny and how controlled
3. Adapters used
4. Driving impressions
5. Real world gas mileage
6. Difficulties
7. Advice
8. Cost breakdown
9. Would you do it again?
10. Link to thread and/or other site

Thank you to Stone who provided the basic structure in the 80-Series Diesel Swap Registry. Thanks also, to all of you who take the time to provide info. It will save many others time.

As always, please keep this thread clutter free and on topic.

Thanks,

Scott

Mods, can we sticky this?

 

[Kurtis]

1985 FJ60

1993 TBI 350 F.I.C. harness

4l60e. ECM controls the trans.

AA adapter.

Hands down twice as drivable as a 2f. TBIs aren't high hp motors but they make great torque and make it low it works well in a 60. My 60 is SOA on 35s and I do 85mph for hours at a time if I take a trip with it. You can actually get on the freeway and pick any lane.

Mpg city=13.5-14 Mpg highway = 15-17. 17 around 70mph. 15 80-85.

Tbi motors are cake to install. I think the hardest part for me was building a fan shroud and locating the ecm. The only trouble I had was I poorly routed the plug wires and melted a couple the first year.

Buy everything in one big purchase and have it come altogether and make sure you have plenty of cash on hand for incidentals. If I did it again I would have sent in the steering gearbox and did a full rebuild on the t case at the same time. Plan on building a track bar while your at it at well. Use a mechanical fan and shroud and a 10" pusher for the a/c condenser and you will keep the motor cool and the a/c icy. It took about 5 weeks of working on Saturday and a couple nights a week. If I did it again I could probably pull it off minus exhaust and drive shafts in 3 days. It would have been done in about 3 if I wouldn't have taken 2 weeks figuring out I had a fuel line swapped.

My swap cost 3k with everything including a rebuilt transmission. This worked perfect for me as honestly that's about as much money I wanted to dump into a 60 motor wise.

I'd do it again for sure. Only thing I would have changed would have been a Chevy t case and rear axle and maybe some vortec heads for the motor.

 

[Trock]

1987 FJ60

1. Engine - 1994 Toyota 1HD-T
2. Tranny and how controlled - Standard Spec on my truck is a H55F so kept that
3. Adapters used - Bellhousing from a HZJ75
4. Driving impressions - WAY better than the 3F it replaced in all aspects, loads of low down grunt and can cruise on the highway all day in fifth. I can't explain how much better the truck is to drive!
5. Real world gas mileage - I've only done about 2000km since the swap but the mileage is pretty constant at just over 20 Mpg, mostly highways and dirt, don't do much town driving
6. Difficulties - Found out there are actually a couple different input shafts and I had to get the new one machined down to fit the oil seal and bearing cover..
7. Advice - If you can find a 1HD-T get it..
8. Cost breakdown - came in all told at under $8000
9. Would you do it again? - In a heartbeat
10. Link to thread and/or other site -
http://www.landcruiserclub.co.za/cms/index.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=46841
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/511288-another-60-gets-1hd-t.html

 

[djawahir]

1. Engine - 2007 GM 5.3L Vortec Flex Fuel (L59)
2. Tranny and how controlled - H55F. Controlled with my greasy little fingers. (Just a couple wires to the ECM)
3. Adapters used - Marks Adapter
4. Driving impressions - F'in sweet. Everything and a bag of chips. I'd like to squeeze a little more mpg out of it, but it hauls some ass. ~350HP, ~350Ft-lb torque.
5. Real world gas mileage - 15MPG (That's averaging about 75mph on the freeway for my commutes and 33" tires. 3.71 gearing)
6. Difficulties - The little stuff. I'm a perfectionist, so the details drove me a little batty.
7. Advice - Do it, do it, do it. If you love your truck and want a little more power, just do it.
8. Cost breakdown - $15k +
9. Would you do it again? - Yes, but next time I would get the Orion instead of the Marks. That way, I'd have an adapter, but with an extra set of gears.
10. Link to thread and/or other site - Started one, but like my truck...it is almost done...

 

[elripster]

1985 FJ-60.

1. Engine: 3FE from a 62
2. Tranny and how controlled: Stock 4 speed for now, H55F in the future, no control required but need to give the ECU 12V to fake out the neutral safety switch.
3. Adapters used: None required
4. Driving impressions: Swap in progress, will update.
5. Real world gas mileage: See above
6. Difficulties: Minimal, everything bolts together, a few wires to make the ECU and AC happy.
7. Advice: Find someone who is parting out a truck and willing to give you as much of the extras as they can. Or you can get this as a kit from Cruiser parts.net
8. Cost breakdown: Depends, Cruiserparts is $2500 plus accessories and shipping, I'm going to spend about $2k after shipping and buying many maintenance related parts for my new engine which iincludes accessories in the purchase price.
9. Would you do it again?: I hope so. This is a CA smog friendly swap. The need to meet emissions steers me away from many other options. Parts are readily available for this engine in the USA.
10. Link to thread and/or other site: Got all the input from mudders and even scored the engine from a fellow mudder.

Summary: If you want to upgrade to FI, add HP and torque, meet CA emissions, be able to get parts easily, and keep it all LC, this is a good option.

 

[RockDoc]

1) 2FE
2) Stockish A440F
3) No adapters
4) Drives like a 3FE, but stronger, holds OD better, takes hills better, tows better, happily burbles along with 33"s turning 1900 rpm or less on the highway
5) Similar to 3FE
6) Very few difficulties, adapting coolant hoses between 2F and 3FE layout, jerry-rigging alternator mount a bit.
7) Do it
8) Maybe $2000-$2500 with some overpriced machine shop work and doing almost everything myself otherwise, could do it cheaper a second time
9) I would do it again
10) https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/277349-help-me-plan-2fe.html

 

[vwluv10338]

Note. I did not do the swap. I'm not sure who actually did the swap.

1. Engine - 2H
2. Tranny and how controlled - H55
3. Adapters used - Engine mounts and trans mounts welded to frame
4. Driving impressions - 33" tires and 4.88 and its still slow. Good acceleration in 3rd and 4th.
5. Real world gas mileage - ~20mpg before the rebuild with a bad cylinder and worn injectors.
6. Difficulties - Poor install. Engine tilted, mounts need to be rewelded. Front driveshaft hits trans crossmember at full droop because of the engine tilt.
7. Advice- measure twice
8. Cost breakdown - I was told the engine and new H55 cost $6500. I think the rebuild cost ~$3000.
9. Would you do it again? Maybe. We will see once I get the mounts fixed and a turbo installed.
10. Link to thread and/or other site
https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/469846-my-2h-trashed.html

 

[esh]

1. '96 1HZ/turbo
2. H55f, controlled with my left foot and right hand
3. HZJ75 bellhousing, HZ (or 12HT or BJ60? forget) engine mounts, hacked together fan shroud, custom flanges for turbo inlet/exhaust, turbo air filter housing, FJ60 trans crossmember
4. Fun to drive, adequate not monster power. turbo left at factory-like ~9psi boost. H55 is too short in lower gears for onroad, but those same gears are excellent at slow dirt roads. Power really shines @4th gear and rolls on like a train. 5th gear pulls a lot of hills and overtakes easily. Could stand a taller O/D gear, or 6 speed but nothing is compatible. using 33s/4.11.. 3.70s dog it too much.

One huge thing I like about an overhead cam diesel is they are so damn quiet. It really doesn't sound like a diesel until you get on it (and part of my noise is the exhaust setup). Toyota made this generation diesel motor very smooth and quiet. I have 2 3B trucks, and have driven and been around 12H-Ts, Cummins 4/6BTs and the Isuzu and they are all much louder than the 1HZ. No comparison. Most of my enjoyable driving is very slow speeds, so the 1HZ is ideal for me. They do build up some noise up into the higher crusing RPMs, but that is also where the other engines smooth out.. so most engines are roughly equivalent at cruising. I had to put Nissan Patrol Turbo Diesel stickers on to assure the Oregon gas attendants it is actually a diesel.

5. 20-22mpg. 19mpg winter fuel/city driving. 24mpg I have seen a few times. Very speed sensitive. 55mph is best, 63-70 gets about 19mpg. 15-16mpg offroad type driving. It takes at least a year for the turbo excitement to die down, if ever. One goal for the swap was range. Stock tank will do 350-400+ miles.
6. Accumulating parts, swapping from auto setup to manual. Many little details. The install was kept as simple as possible- deleted glow control system for switch/relay for example.
7. have lynchmob do it for you, which is mostly what I did. He does very clean work at a reasonable price. Probably not worth it to do an HZ unless you also run a turbo. Turbo practical necessity for over 8000ft travel.
8. around $10k, many parts sourced were new.. so you can drop the price if going after used parts like the turbo. add ~$4-5k if you wanted to use an A440 and upgrade it to take the power and change shift points to the engine (Rodney@Wholesale Auto)
9. Yes, unless a 1HD-T fell into my lap as they are superior engines after BEBs are changed, but they are also +$2-4k. I would also use an FJ60 as it is already setup for manual transmission- we changed strategy mid-way after pricing out A440 upgrades and cooling.
10. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/270772-fj62-destruction-yabt.html
and https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/274540-hzj62-8-days.html

 

[Dirtgypsy]

1. Engine
2. Tranny and how controlled
3. Adapters used
4. Driving impressions
5. Real world gas mileage
6. Difficulties
7. Advice
8. Cost breakdown
9. Would you do it again?
10. Link to thread and/or other site

1. Isuzu 4BD1T
2. Toyota H55F
3. Isuzu Diesel Swapper (IDS) to AA Chevy SB to Toyota
4. unbelievable
5. 20 plus mixed
6. making adapters for bigger turbo
7. Be patient, ask a lot of questions IN the thread of the builder, during the build thread, not just rondom posts. Also buy the ENTIRE truck, car, SUV the engine came from if at all possible.
8. $3200: approx $1000 for engine, $800 plus for adapters and $1600 for ancillary items.
9. In a heartbeat and even more so with a 6 cyl Diesel next time.
10. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/274454-dirtgypsy-goes-soa.html

Clint

 

[Dynosoar]

1. Engine - Chevy 350 TPI (Speed Density)
2. Tranny and how controlled -700r4
3. Adapters used - Advanced Adapters 700r4 to split case
4. Driving impressions - It kicks ass
5. Real world gas mileage - 11-12 city 13-15 Hwy
6. Difficulties - no real problems
7. Advice - Learn how to weld and do the swap yourself
8. Cost breakdown - $1,000,000,000 (One Billion US Dollars) really I have lost track but expect 3-5k for a do it yourself swap
9. Would you do it again? - Hell Yes
10. Link to thread and/or other site - ROTW


Dynosoar

 

[Elbert]

tan hybrid

1. 1999 5.7 Vortec from GMC Yukon
2. H55F / raw force
3. Marks bellhousing adapter, AA motor mounts, painless engine harness
4. Plenty of power / fun to drive / power to do about anything
5. 10-12 / 33 mud tires with 4.88 gears
6. adjusting marks adapter & slave, some issues with engine wire harness.
7. I went with Marks' because at the time I was a fan of not having to do any other modifications to the driveshafts or crossmembers. I would prefer to have the egnine sitting back away from the radiator a few more inches. On reflection I would consider a NV4500 or a 4L50E or 4L80E. New automatices function very well.
8. $$ A lot, allthough I've done some things in parallel not exclusive to the engine swap. New H55F 2K, used long block assembly 1.2K, wiring harness 700, PCM program 300 misc parts 2k, AA stuff est 1.5K.
9. Yes without hesitation, I would ride the 2F desmogged for as long as I could stand it, and then jump off into a V-8. Really makes the fun factor worth it, once you get over the issues.
10. https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/186275-5-7-vortec-v-8-swap-86-fj60.html
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/496997-another-c-sbc-swap-thread.html

Other stuff to know... consider your cooling issues, you will need a VSS for fuel injection and auto trans to work, you will need some fabrication skills (my friend Les helped me), you will need some knowledge of fuel injection, go on and buy a engine scan tool, I don't know of a perfect solution, if you live in a smog state make sure to know about the rules related to engine swaps and smog test, read & research, buy a donor car or truck and get everything under the hood that is attached in any way to the engine or controls/ wiring harnes, air filter assembly, PCM, all accesories..etc. The "thing" below is in constant change or I just get soemthing fixed until the next ride or whatever...be willing to accept some modificaitons that get get it done. Either live near someone who knows how to work on these things or know how to do it yourself...odds are you'll be hard pressed to find a shop that will take on much of the work / repairs.

One other note....make sure to deal with someone who backs their products and has experience in the parts they offer. I would advise you to deal with a shop who makes the stand alone engine harness as well and modify the ECM/PCM....because if that gets screwed up its going to drive you crazy trying to figure out what the issue is. I ran ito that problem and wasted a few $$ chasing my @$$. So I would advise that you get on the phone and buy the harness and have your ECM reprogrammed from the same person. I don't have first hand experience with a specifice vendor but the Howell shop seems to be highly reccomended. I'll be dealing with them next time around.

I need to give credit to all of the guys who have responded to my various questions related to the swap and issues that have cropped up along the way. The forum is a great source for ideas, help, modifications and insight into things. Of course people have different views and perceptions but in the end the forum makes a lot of this stuff possible. Also all of this would not have been possible without my firends help who I mentioned above.

 

[RAMZ]

Come on guys, lets see some more...

 

[srogers]

Awesome thread - love the 1HD-T swap!

 

[RAMZ]

T. T. T.

 

[longbow]

Isuzu Diesel

1. ENGINE 1989 Isuzu 4BD1T diesel
2. TRANNY H55F
3. ADAPTERS Isuzu Diesel Swapper kit, Downey Chevy to Toyota bell housing
4.DRIVING IMPRESSIONS Plenty of power, lots of torque, not a monster but plenty of power for me. I love driving this truck now, and hearing that turbo spool just puts a smile on my face every day! I wish the H55F had a higher overdrive, but it works fine. I might have gone the NV4500 route if I could have found one cheap, but that is another adapter to buy for the transfer case at the back!
5.REAL WORLD MPG's 24-26 hwy and 22-23 around town
6. DIFFICULTIES Ended up having to rebuild the engine before install due to rusty head problems.
7. ADVICE make sure you get a complete engine with all accessories like power steering resevoir, starter, alt, etc. These things really add up!
8. COST About $3400 to get it going. Initially bought the engine for $600 and had to rebuild myself, so add $1000 to that for a rebuild kit. $600 for Isuzu Diesel Swapper kit and a bunch more for all the little things that come up like having to get injectors rebuilt and bigger turbo for a little more power, etc, etc....
9.WOULD YOU DO IT AGAIN? YES!!!!! YES!!! YES!!! In fact I am building my second Isuzu diesel with an auto to put in my wife's 80!
10.https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/480289-diesel-conversion-isuzu-4bd1t.html

 

[Happy Trails]

Great thread!! Dreaming of that 1 HD-T in my 60.

 

[PortFJ62]

I wasnt the mad scientist who put this together.
2000 Mercruiser 502 EFI factory multiport fuel injection
4l80e GM Tranny
430HP/520 lbs
Poor MPG. Under 10City Maybe 14 or so Highway
Cooling Issues have been the biggest problem.
Not sure what the cost was for the swap. The entire truck was a frame up restore.
Plan on selling the engine one day to for a vortec or diesel swap.
Nice motor but its overkill and the gas kills me. It wasnt bought
originally to daily drive, but Im having to now since some things have changed.

 

[Heckraiser]

No need for words....

How could that possibly warrant no information or details? I'm dying to know how this is working.

 

[PortFJ62]

Updated above.

 

[rover67]

1. Engine - 5.3 liter Vortec LM7 out of a 2003 Silverado or Chevy van, don't really know.

2. Tranny - H55F

3. Adapters - Mark's Adapter

4. Driving Impressions - I love driving it. It hauls loaded or unloaded, as said above, it's a pick any lane kind of truck now and I usually end up in the left lane up all the hills because it is too much fun. Small 35's, 4.88's have the r's kinda high at cruise, but it rolls 75 all day long on the hwy at just under 3k rpm. On the rocks it does well too. it has decent torque at idle, but not like the 2F did so you have to use a bit more throttle when hitting a rock or something to climb over. Makes me want an auto sometimes. The idle programming can be messed with to make it recover more aggressively when the r's drop.

5. Real World Gas Mileage - Around town driving it pretty hard every day I get about 12.5-13.5. On the HWY going 75 or so I tend to get 14- 15. 80-85mph I get something like 12-13. I have been able to get 16.5-17 going 65-70 or so before, but I can't go that slow for too long without going batty.. I've never driven it slower than that for long enough to figure out mileage.

6. Difficulties - I had a hard time getting a fuel system that reliably provided the motor with a good fuel supply. I also tried electric fans at first and eventually went with mechanical. I also had lots of issues with the place that made my harness and programmed the computer not knowing what they were doing so I wasted a lot of time and money going round and round with them. I also blew the motor up the day I finished the swap. ALso the Marks adapter was not straightforward to set up correctly.

7. Advice - Stay with as much of the GM or Toyota parts as possible and don't be tempted to do aftermarket stuff. I love my stock GM fuel pump and Stock Gm mechanical fan for example. Know the reputation of the people you use for wiring and programming or do it yourself. Buy some sort of programmer and diagnostic tool so you can see what the computer is doing/seeing. Be patient, learn to fabricate or weld, or have a close friend that knows, and do as much of the work yourself.

8. Cost Breakdown - I have lost count and don't care really to add it all up. Maybe 5k? but where does that stop? I bet if you tried and did it all yourself it could be done for cheaper, maybe as low as 3k.

9. Would You Do it Again? - Sure i'd do it again, I love the truck set up like this. I might choose and auto that was originally mounted to the motor though to simplify things.

10: Build Thread - https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/166720-new-heart-same-soul.html

I've tried to capture all the "gotchas" I saw along the way in my thread. towards the end I have changed lots of details in the setup. As of 10/14/11 I probably have 85k miles or so on the swap.