Engine shutting off during long trips.

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UPDATE; I took the LC to my mechanic who is a master Toyota technician. I have previously posted that the EVAP canister had been changed and it had not. the canister was flooded which I believe caused the overheating of the fuel pump. the canister was replaced as well as the fuel pump and the fuel filter. I think and I hope this will solve it my problem!
 
I didn't follow the thread completely but according to your 1st post, adding cooler fuel made the engine to run. Which shows the pump/fuel is hot. I know this is an old discussion, but do you remember as soon as you open the gas cap to add fuel, did you notice a sudden rush of gas out from the tank? I had a similar problem in my corolla between Vegas and Kingman AZ during a summer. But thankfully the engine didn't shut down.
The problem was, a return gasoline metal line (after the fuel pressure regulator) is in touch with the a metallic coolant line. This is factory design to heat the fuel in the winter but a bad idea for summer. I simply bypass the coolant line with a direct rubber hose. Now the problem is solved.
 
Not on a long trip, but adding another data point: 06 LX, bought it with 166k on the click last year, mall cruiser with full dealer service (*everything*, bearing repacks, prop shaft lubes, fluid flushes, by the book). Plugs were done at 131k. Currently sitting at 177k. Just got back from a 5k cross country drive. Went trailing in Hemet/Idyllwild 2 weeks ago, start with just over ⅔ tank of fuel (always top tier 91 octane), ran fine. Nothing technical, just fire roads, lots of climbing (H range, usually around 2200rpm in D, 5-10mph), outside temps in the 60s. Started from HWY 74, ended up on HWY 238, nice wide turnout/overlook area, so I stopped to take photos. All gauges read normal, no weird sounds or smells, fuel gauge reads a smidge under ½ tank.

Heard car stumble, thought that's odd. Then I hear idle dip again, so I ran back to car, gave it some throttle. It's running rough, like it wants to die, and despite throttle, comes down from 3k to 600 and stalls. Cranks strong, crank-hold is keeping it going, but won't start, so I switch it off. Scan OBDII: lean banks 1 and 2, misfire cyl 4. I chalk it up to the stall/lack of start. I did smell fuel, like a car running rich. Under-hood smelled normal. I let it sit for a few minutes. Cranks, starts, dies. Fortunately I had just made it to the highway and had enough cell signal to call for help. Half hour later, cranks starts, runs fine, so I let it idle, rev it a bit, just to see if it's stable. Few minutes later, dies again.

I initially thought fuel pump (BMW E46 previous car, similar symptoms with about as many miles, was fuel pump). No way I'm risking a mountain pass descent from 6000' or so with an unstable engine, so just wait for a tow home (2000'). Starts just fine. Drove it 50 miles to RPM Garage in Monrovia the next day, ran just fine. (Bro followed me in his LX, said brown smoke on hard throttle, could be because ran a bottle of Redline SI-1 in the tank). Steve at the shop drove it for a week, no issues.

Given what I know now, thought was bad fuel (bro with 03 LX did same cross country trip, suspected bad batch of fuel at one stop, had stumble issues whole tank, never returned), and bumpy trails dislodging crud and clogging fuel filter. FF was cheap to replace, so had that done. Fuel coming out of the filter onto white cardboard was gray/brown like dirty dishwater, tech said it shouldn't be that color. He blew it out, said not much restriction, so we're not sure what the issue was. I've been spooked and still drive scared, and don't want to venture too far out from cell range. (I broke all three of my rules this trip: never trail solo, esp new trail, never go w/o radio, and never go w/o telling someone where you're going).
 
I had similar stalls doing the exact same thing. I replaced the fuel filter and fuel pump. Fuel filter out of an abundance of caution and the pump had never been changed. Your talking a 13 year old fuel pump. As someone on mud pointed out to me don't expect hard work and efficiency from your old pump. And hot slow speed wheelin on old equipment... This was bound to happen. I will say I no longer have the stalling problem, it is completely gone.
 
I am sure of it. Do a little searching of the threads. If you do it, I can send you pictures of the manual if you don't have them. If your handy I think you can do it. My complaint was the carpet and unbolting the seats.
 
Not on a long trip, but adding another data point: 06 LX, bought it with 166k on the click last year, mall cruiser with full dealer service (*everything*, bearing repacks, prop shaft lubes, fluid flushes, by the book). Plugs were done at 131k. Currently sitting at 177k. Just got back from a 5k cross country drive. Went trailing in Hemet/Idyllwild 2 weeks ago, start with just over ⅔ tank of fuel (always top tier 91 octane), ran fine. Nothing technical, just fire roads, lots of climbing (H range, usually around 2200rpm in D, 5-10mph), outside temps in the 60s. Started from HWY 74, ended up on HWY 238, nice wide turnout/overlook area, so I stopped to take photos. All gauges read normal, no weird sounds or smells, fuel gauge reads a smidge under ½ tank.

Heard car stumble, thought that's odd. Then I hear idle dip again, so I ran back to car, gave it some throttle. It's running rough, like it wants to die, and despite throttle, comes down from 3k to 600 and stalls. Cranks strong, crank-hold is keeping it going, but won't start, so I switch it off. Scan OBDII: lean banks 1 and 2, misfire cyl 4. I chalk it up to the stall/lack of start. I did smell fuel, like a car running rich. Under-hood smelled normal. I let it sit for a few minutes. Cranks, starts, dies. Fortunately I had just made it to the highway and had enough cell signal to call for help. Half hour later, cranks starts, runs fine, so I let it idle, rev it a bit, just to see if it's stable. Few minutes later, dies again.

I initially thought fuel pump (BMW E46 previous car, similar symptoms with about as many miles, was fuel pump). No way I'm risking a mountain pass descent from 6000' or so with an unstable engine, so just wait for a tow home (2000'). Starts just fine. Drove it 50 miles to RPM Garage in Monrovia the next day, ran just fine. (Bro followed me in his LX, said brown smoke on hard throttle, could be because ran a bottle of Redline SI-1 in the tank). Steve at the shop drove it for a week, no issues.

Given what I know now, thought was bad fuel (bro with 03 LX did same cross country trip, suspected bad batch of fuel at one stop, had stumble issues whole tank, never returned), and bumpy trails dislodging crud and clogging fuel filter. FF was cheap to replace, so had that done. Fuel coming out of the filter onto white cardboard was gray/brown like dirty dishwater, tech said it shouldn't be that color. He blew it out, said not much restriction, so we're not sure what the issue was. I've been spooked and still drive scared, and don't want to venture too far out from cell range. (I broke all three of my rules this trip: never trail solo, esp new trail, never go w/o radio, and never go w/o telling someone where you're going).

Did you by any chance poured any 85 octane in the tank? i remember just looking at the price and didn't notice the oct rate!
I ask because I made this mistake at the very end of my 4 week road trip in 2016. Same kind of stuff happened and i was dead on the side of the road wife wife, kids and a trailer behind. After putting some booster and good gas it went back to normal.
 
Not on a long trip, but adding another data point: 06 LX, bought it with 166k on the click last year, mall cruiser with full dealer service (*everything*, bearing repacks, prop shaft lubes, fluid flushes, by the book). Plugs were done at 131k. Currently sitting at 177k. Just got back from a 5k cross country drive. Went trailing in Hemet/Idyllwild 2 weeks ago, start with just over ⅔ tank of fuel (always top tier 91 octane), ran fine. Nothing technical, just fire roads, lots of climbing (H range, usually around 2200rpm in D, 5-10mph), outside temps in the 60s. Started from HWY 74, ended up on HWY 238, nice wide turnout/overlook area, so I stopped to take photos. All gauges read normal, no weird sounds or smells, fuel gauge reads a smidge under ½ tank.

Heard car stumble, thought that's odd. Then I hear idle dip again, so I ran back to car, gave it some throttle. It's running rough, like it wants to die, and despite throttle, comes down from 3k to 600 and stalls. Cranks strong, crank-hold is keeping it going, but won't start, so I switch it off. Scan OBDII: lean banks 1 and 2, misfire cyl 4. I chalk it up to the stall/lack of start. I did smell fuel, like a car running rich. Under-hood smelled normal. I let it sit for a few minutes. Cranks, starts, dies. Fortunately I had just made it to the highway and had enough cell signal to call for help. Half hour later, cranks starts, runs fine, so I let it idle, rev it a bit, just to see if it's stable. Few minutes later, dies again.

I initially thought fuel pump (BMW E46 previous car, similar symptoms with about as many miles, was fuel pump). No way I'm risking a mountain pass descent from 6000' or so with an unstable engine, so just wait for a tow home (2000'). Starts just fine. Drove it 50 miles to RPM Garage in Monrovia the next day, ran just fine. (Bro followed me in his LX, said brown smoke on hard throttle, could be because ran a bottle of Redline SI-1 in the tank). Steve at the shop drove it for a week, no issues.

Given what I know now, thought was bad fuel (bro with 03 LX did same cross country trip, suspected bad batch of fuel at one stop, had stumble issues whole tank, never returned), and bumpy trails dislodging crud and clogging fuel filter. FF was cheap to replace, so had that done. Fuel coming out of the filter onto white cardboard was gray/brown like dirty dishwater, tech said it shouldn't be that color. He blew it out, said not much restriction, so we're not sure what the issue was. I've been spooked and still drive scared, and don't want to venture too far out from cell range. (I broke all three of my rules this trip: never trail solo, esp new trail, never go w/o radio, and never go w/o telling someone where you're going).

I believe you experienced the common fuel tank overpressurization issue. Did you by chance open the gas cap during any of the engine stall issues? If you had i bet you would have heard a massive pressure release.

After climbing in elevation, especially while working the truck some, venting the gas tank is almost a necessary action on the 100.
 
Did you by any chance poured any 85 octane in the tank? i remember just looking at the price and didn't notice the oct rate!
I ask because I made this mistake at the very end of my 4 week road trip in 2016. Same kind of stuff happened and i was dead on the side of the road wife wife, kids and a trailer behind. After putting some booster and good gas it went back to normal.
Negative, last fill was 91 Octane from Costco (where I normally fuel up).
 
I believe you experienced the common fuel tank overpressurization issue. Did you by chance open the gas cap during any of the engine stall issues? If you had i bet you would have heard a massive pressure release.

After climbing in elevation, especially while working the truck some, venting the gas tank is almost a necessary action on the 100.
Didn't know about the issue till I found this thread (linked from another thread)--good to know, will keep that in mind, thanks!
 
I believe you experienced the common fuel tank overpressurization issue. Did you by chance open the gas cap during any of the engine stall issues? If you had i bet you would have heard a massive pressure release.

After climbing in elevation, especially while working the truck some, venting the gas tank is almost a necessary action on the 100.

Hey Andy-

Not sure thats all together the safest thing to do. I know its been done a lot, but a massive release of fuel vapor from the filler in proximity to any sort of static electricity (more plausible at higher altitude) could initiate a flash fire explosion. Wouldn't opening the gas cap, there by lowering tank pressure- temporarily increase the fuel boil and subesquent vapor generation? I know this is an ongoing issue with no clear solution: lots of people have tried replacing related EVAP control valves, replacing charcoal canisters, check valves on the fuel tank with varied results. I dont really know the best answer, but stopping- waiting for the system to purge and cool might be safest option as inconvenient as it is.
 
Can't comment on safety issues i guess, have never actually considered.

It's pretty common practice though, FWIW.
 
Reviving this old thread from a recent trip I took. As I posted before, I changed the charcoal canister, fuel pump and fuel tank breather valve in September 2017 after a stalling episode. Last week, I drove to Phoenix, Arizona, then to Sedona and up to Grand Canyon and then back to Southern California. The stretch back from Grand Canyon to Southern California was 490 miles, elevation changes from 1000ft to 6000ft, lasted 9 hours with three short stops at temperatures ranging from 90 to 122 degrees! I filled up a full tank of gas when we started the route. About 150 miles into it, I smelled a little gas in the cabin and noticed a few drops of fuel had poured out of the gas cap at the next stop. There was no hissing or vacume when i opened the cap and the motor did NOT hesitate one bit, it performed flawlessly. I made it a point to not completely filled up at the next fill up in case the heat was causing the fuel to expand and forced out of the gas cap. This was a true test! given the long distance and the abnormally high temps. I think and I hope I’ve solved the problem once and for all. I will check to see if the return line runs by a heat source used to heat up the fuel during winter times and use some sort of insulation on that return line.
 
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I've had the shutoff and fuel vapor leak for a few years but its been pretty intermittent. This year its been like clockwork though anytime I climb up into the mountains. I don't over fill the tank. If I know I'm going to be up in elevation and its available I fill with ethanol free. It really hasn't mattered though and I still get the shutoff. The only good thing about this is that I know if I sit for a while (10-20 minutes) the LX will fire back up and be fine.

With as expensive as the charcoal canister is I haven't really considered replacing it. Its interesting though to see this thread and find that replacing the fuel pump might be an option for the shutoff as well as checking to isolate the fuel line from any coolant lines. I guess when I first read here about it a few years ago I thought the shutoff was fuel boiling in the lines and not potential issues with the pump. Do I just need to trace the fuel line to see where it might be getting close to the coolant hose or has anyone found a specific location this is tending to happen?
 
I've had the shutoff and fuel vapor leak for a few years but its been pretty intermittent. This year its been like clockwork though anytime I climb up into the mountains. I don't over fill the tank. If I know I'm going to be up in elevation and its available I fill with ethanol free. It really hasn't mattered though and I still get the shutoff. The only good thing about this is that I know if I sit for a while (10-20 minutes) the LX will fire back up and be fine.

With as expensive as the charcoal canister is I haven't really considered replacing it. Its interesting though to see this thread and find that replacing the fuel pump might be an option for the shutoff as well as checking to isolate the fuel line from any coolant lines. I guess when I first read here about it a few years ago I thought the shutoff was fuel boiling in the lines and not potential issues with the pump. Do I just need to trace the fuel line to see where it might be getting close to the coolant hose or has anyone found a specific location this is tending to happen?
My next door neighbor is a toyoTo mechanic, and before I finished what I was describing he said it's not the charcoal canister. He said fuel pump. Just another opinion to throw in.
 
One last item, in one of the previous posts someone mentioned their Corolla had the fuel lines run close to the exhaust to heat up the fuel for better burn, especially during cold weather. I looked under my LC and, sure enough, the fuel line and the return line to the tank run right next to the catalytic converter (about 4-6inches apart) with no heat shield in between. I believe this is the number one cause of the fuel heating up, the fuel expanding in the tank, and the fuel boiling (as it did in my LC).

I had some Cool-it Thermotec heat shield laying around, i wrapped the side of the fule lines facing the cat to protect against the heat. I'll see how it does and report it. I could not figuere out how our LC's are heating up fuel while every other vehicle running in the same temps, same fuel, etc...did not. This may be the answer. this is temporary, until i build a heat shield betweent the cat (on the right in the picture) and the fuel lines.

I did drive through Mojave at 90-122degree temps for over seven hours with no issues, but there was some fuel spillage when i filled up the tank fuel, from the fuel filler. I think this next step will help cool of the fuel more...rough pic attached, but i think you get the idea. The make shift heat shield stretches past the lenght of the cat, approximately 32" long.

2018-08-05 21.21.15.png
 
UPDATE: I went on a fishing trip in early august. The temperatures were 90-110 the entire way. It's been an early and hot summer this year in s. california. I filled up the land cruiser with a full tank half way through the trip. There were no symptoms whatsoever. No vacuum when opening the gas cap, no hissing, no gas boiling or even smell of gas when driving. This trip had the high temp and elevation gains which has consistently caused the symptoms mentioned previously, but the LC experience no such symptoms.

I believe there are two problems on these LC's, one is a charcoal canister and fuel tank vent which caused the engine to sputter and die. The second are the fuel lines run near catalytic converter causing to fuel to overheat.

Lastly, i added a heat shield near the catalytic converter to block radiant heat which caused the gas to get hot, taking off the previous temporary heat wrap i had wrapped the fuel lines in. The heat shield is 24 gauge sheetmetal, 23" by 3.5", riveted to the existing cat heat shield. I added thermotec heat shield to the sheetmetal, only because i had it laying around, i believe it is NOT necessary...

I'm posting detailed work and results on this topic because, frankly, this was a huge PITA for me and had me considering selling the LC but i believe it's solved once and for all...

2018-08-26 15.33.02.jpg


2018-08-26 15.33.15.jpg
 
Lastly, i added a heat shield near the catalytic converter to block radiant heat which caused the gas to get hot, taking off the previous temporary heat wrap i had wrapped the fuel lines in. The heat shield is 24 gauge sheetmetal, 23" by 3.5", riveted to the existing cat heat shield. I added thermotec heat shield to the sheetmetal, only because i had it laying around, i believe it is NOT necessary...

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. Thanks Ive had this happen on my last trip West and going back out in a week, I’m going to duplicate your heat shield and hope the results are as good as yours were.. thanks for the idea and good pics. Edit: here’s my attempt at a heat shield, i used some heat reflective tape I had here, maybe not necessary but it can’t hurt . Sure hope I have the good results you did.
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4F6BC909-C495-48E9-B850-052549D0EE1D.jpeg
 
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