Engine knocking after overheat (1 Viewer)

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Best of luck bud. It's a win either way. You will have that under your belt afterall. I said bye to most garages long time ago.
 
I asked this earlier, but didn't get an answer. Once the engine and transmission are out, dangling from a hoist, how am I supposed to get the transmission separated and remove the intake manifold? Do I set it on the floor? Is there another kind of stand that would accommodate the whole drivetrain? I'm ready to pull the motor, but I really don't get what happens next. I've got a hoist and engine leveler, but I don't have any way to attach the chains to the block yet. I also don't have an engine stand, and am trying to avoid buying one. But I just can't visualize what happens between pulling the motor and dropping it off at the machinist.
 
I usually get some used spare tires and rest the engine/tranny on them for disassembly.
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I kept the engine on the hoist and lowered the transmission on a flat dolly. Unbolted everything and kept the transmission on the flat dolly. The engine on the other hand I took directly to the machine shop. If you are going to keep the engine at home for a while, you can get an engine stand. The chains can be attached using some old head bolts and a nut.
 
FWIW there are threads and debates on Engine only removal. FWIW the knock (still was drivable) on my 97 (bought that way) was collapsed/scored piston skirts from, I'm sure, driving/overheating, probably repeatedly, from seeping HG. Crank/rod bearings were decent and no it's still in parts.

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I asked this earlier, but didn't get an answer. Once the engine and transmission are out, dangling from a hoist, how am I supposed to get the transmission separated and remove the intake manifold? Do I set it on the floor? Is there another kind of stand that would accommodate the whole drivetrain? I'm ready to pull the motor, but I really don't get what happens next. I've got a hoist and engine leveler, but I don't have any way to attach the chains to the block yet. I also don't have an engine stand, and am trying to avoid buying one. But I just can't visualize what happens between pulling the motor and dropping it off at the machinist.
Like this. Buy one of these Jack's. It is useful when clearing the transfer case from the front when you pull it all and you can set the transmission on it once out.

The intake manifold can be removed by removing all of the bolts holding the manifold to the head then un clipping all of the sensors and hoses. It will all come off together. It's not bad. Just look at and you can tell pretty quick what needs to be removed.

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Like this. Buy one of these Jack's. It is useful when clearing the transfer case from the front when you pull it all and you can set the transmission on it once out.

The intake manifold can be removed by removing all of the bolts holding the manifold to the head then un clipping all of the sensors and hoses. It will all come off together. It's not bad. Just look at and you can tell pretty quick what needs to be removed.

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Thank you for posting that picture. It helps me more than you know. That stand looks a lot more versatile than an engine stand. I could easier justify that than an engine stand. I'll look into it.
 
Thank you for posting that picture. It helps me more than you know. That stand looks a lot more versatile than an engine stand. I could easier justify that than an engine stand. I'll look into it.
It's a motorcycle Jack from harbor freight. It's been very useful
 
With a 25% off coupon you can get a 1000lb engine stand from HF for 45$. FYI.

Personally, I’d get a big sheet of cardboard and throw it on the ground, land the whole thing on that and then you can split the trans on the ground. Might need a friend to help you. Probably keep a little tension on the hoist to keep everything from flopping on its side. Just have to manhandle the trans and tcase off. They dont weigh that much really.
 
Might add that I’m assuming itd be easier to pull flex plate bolts while engine is still in frame.
 
Clearly my project has stalled out. I got an estimate on potential machine work and balked. Eventually my "fix the 'Cruiser fund" turned into my "buy a new daily driver fund." No regrets on that front, I picked up a 2000 Lexus LS400 for a song and it's sweeeeeet. But I've resigned to not getting a top dollar engine rebuild out of this calamity. So now I'm back to looking for a used motor again, hopefully one that deserves its reputation for reliability. I really have no loyalty toward this particular engine casting, and given it's failure I won't miss it. Plus it simplifies the process of swapping them out at once and not trucking a motor around town. I'm feeling optimistic for the first time in months.

Looking out for a running 1FZ, preferably 93-94. I'll post in classifieds as well.
 
I have one obd1 and one OBD2 engine right now for sale.
 
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Thanks guys! I do have a completely fresh cyl head with valve job, cams etc, but no complete engine good enough to put into a Cruiser.
 

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