Engine Identification

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Joined
Mar 5, 2008
Threads
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Messages
482
Location
Livonia Michigan
Ok I just recently bought a 1977 fj40
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The truck was posted here in the classifieds in colombus, after Alls said and done i bought the fj, now it needs basic tune up , plus a couple things first things first i cant determine what year the motor is, i was told it was an 78, but when i ordered a belt for it , it was wrong, now the parts place i go to is usually really good about things like that. im just wondering what year motor is in the cruiser, its a 2f as the block stamping says. When i posted pictures originally someone said it looks like a newer body on a older frame, well the whole underbody was coated when the PO painted it so i cant tell the chassis. But the Whole block casting # is 2F 284261 , So what year motor is it. Also the water pump needs replacement, now when i asked the parts department they asked weither is had an oil cooler or not, I told them i dont belive so but how can i tell ? is there an external line coming out of the pump or is it just an internal passage in the pump.the cap and rotor are shot, so i was going to replace them and the points while im at it and once again when i asked for points they said there isnt points in a 78, but there damn well is in mine. one more thing, the truck cranks for a good time before it starts now i noticed the accelerator pump boot is ripped could this be the problem? can i just get that boot and replace it, if so where? heres some more pictures to help on the decipher. Im just wondering when i order my lift also what year i shold order it for. and last in one of the pictures i took of the transfer case i was wondering if its the output seal thats leaking ?. thanks

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Ok-


Went to your pics...


Looks like a period correct 2F for a 1977...Serial number is stamped into the engine block by the starter motor.




Brake master cylinder is from a later-model truck.


Looks like you also have a 1968-1974 windshield frame on your 1977...


:beer:
 
Will look something like this:


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Ok-


Went to your pics...


Looks like a period correct 2F for a 1977...Serial number is stamped into the engine block by the starter motor.




Brake master cylinder is from a later-model truck.


Looks like you also have a 1968-1974 windshield frame on your 1977...


:beer:
Howdy! Kinda looks like early style turn signals on those front fenders. I'm thinkin this is a serious hybrid rig. Gonna take some research to figure it all out. John
 
284261 is a mid '78, according to SOR. The top oil cooler line runs along the valve cover, through a hard line and attaches to the thermostat housing, so this picture shows you don't have one:

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This crack in the frame is worrysome:

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Well-


Since you have now modified your original post:


It would appear according to your engine serial number, that your engine was manufactured around June/July of 1978.



Your engine does not have an oil cooler on it, and you can verify this by comparing the oil filter-mounting base on your FJ60 and then looking at the engine in the 40 series. Your 60 series has an oil cooler; that is the long, flat item located to the rear of the oil filter that has water lines attached to it.


It would appear, again from your pictures, that you have a standard 2F water pump with a fan clutch assembly and the correct dual-groove pulley on it. See if your parts folks can find you a 1978 Land Cruiser water pump, no oil cooler, FJ40 series, not FJ55, and no air conditioning. (They will ask you this)


You have the earlier, semi-electronic ignition in this. Pick up a points set for a 1976/7. However, if it runs fine when you drive it, I would not mess with them.

The hard staring is more likely to be a fuel issue, but the fact that the accelerator pump boot is torn does not necessarily mean that replacing it will fix your issue. How does it run when you operate the vehicle? How long had the truck sat before you purchased it? The carburetor could use to be cleaned and re-built. Also, if someone has removed some of the smog equipment, you could have vacuum leaks causing trouble when trying to start/operate this vehicle as well.


Does your truck have a manual choke on it, like your 60 series?


If not, you will need to get that installed.
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Heres a couple more pictures of the cruiser maybe this will help in any identification. Also does the thermostat housing look weird? there just seems to be alot of space and the bolt seems to be really long so they had to use nuts and i still thinks it just not tight enough. THanks
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Heres a couple more pictures of the cruiser maybe this will help in any identification. Also does the thermostat housing look weird? there just seems to be alot of space and the bolt seems to be really long so they had to use nuts and i still thinks it just not tight enough. THanks



Yes those bolts look ‘weird’; they are not metric......they are ASE. :lol:



:beer:
 
Thanks At least i know what motor im working with here. where the boot is ripped on the accelerator pump seems to leak fuel(surronding area is wet).The PO said the got it from had put a motor in it about 10k, all the gaskets in the motor look newer The engine runs fine once it starts it has a manual choke(works great) the carb says it has been remanufactured on it,i ordered a fuel filter , 8$ cant hurt.the fuel pump looks new . as for the crack in the frame thats not a crack its the paint chipping from the frame being undercaoted. the smog equipment is all there as far as i can tell, well the pump,air rail , egr, the pump belt is loose but i dont think that was cause a slow start would it? Now when it comes to ordering my OME lift are all the fj40s the same? if so i wont have a problem with the year of the rest of the drivetrain. Thanks
 
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Ok then what is my next step, what goes where I have a diagram for my 84 fj60, but thats not the same is it?, I would apperciate some help , not just a remark about how a carb cant run fine with ports being plugged.I am aware that not everything is perfect but i like to do all the work myself. I am a noob when it comes to carbs, Im 21, i was raised around fuel injection and on top of that american cars. So these toyotas are new to me but i love them. Thanks
 
Ok took some better pictures of all the ports that are capped, just drove the truck around ran fine, I see that theres a port on the intake thats capped also , im guessing maniflold vaccum to the carb, but what port to put it to? Another question the fan clutch seems to wobble a bit i shook it and it fells loose so the bearing bad, can that be replaced? i was look ccot has a water pump(which mine is bad) and a fan clutch assambled for 2xx$. I would like to go the cheapest way possible so i can put more money into other modifications, has anyone ever used the 2 piece replacement? And i looked on the frame, it was covered by the undercoating. but the plate on the passanger fender next the coil says fj40-72012 But that might be just the body not the frame Any way heres some pictures of the carb theres 2 port on the back side closest to the valve cover that are capped to 2 that i cant get a pic of. Thanks

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Thanks for the links.
 
Howdy! Might want to pickup a Factory Service Manual, or at least a Haynes repair manual. Those should have the vacuum diagrams so you can figure out what connects to what for all the smoggy stuff. Do you have to pass emissions testing? John
 
It would be best if you could ID your carb using the pictures available from SOR: Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 042-Carburetion

It looks like a '78 CA carb to me: Specter Off-Road-Land Cruiser Parts - Page 042-Carburetion

IMO, a carb that looks like that needs a rebuild. Your fj40 is not going to be cheap. If you buy cheap parts you'll end up replacing them sooner. Get OEM parts from Cruiser Dan instead of repro crap from ccot. Search will turn up his number, or google "american toyota albuquerque". His extension is '8'. Get FJ40Jim to rebuild your carb. It will cost about $300 or a bit more, but it will work great and he'll tell you what to connect to where to get good performance. If he's too busy, Mark (65swb45) does a fine job too: Marks Off Road Home Page.
 
Ok So the carb is a 11/75-7/76 from what SOR says, I have a haynes manuak for the landcruiser, its really old , and it doesnt have any vaccum diagrams. Im going to order a header for it this week, that will elminate all the egr components. get that outta the way . Does anyone have a layout of the vaccum lines for the a 75/76 carb? as of right now the only thing i have hooked up to it is the vaccum advance on the distributor. Has anyone used CCOT FOR PARTS? I need to order a water pump and a fan clutch and they have a package for 250$ if i order it from seperate companys the shipping will be more than if i were to just go with ccot. thanks
 

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