I have a 1970 FJ40 with the original F motor. I recently rebuilt the carb, and when I started it it wasnt running right. The carb guy said he rebuilt the carburaetor to exactly wat it was when it came in. I adjusted the timing on it to the best I can. It backfired and cracked my exhaust. I brought it to my local shop, and they said they cant adjust the timing, because they have never seen anything like it. When they put it to stock specs, it wont run right. I just got my license last week, and havent been able to drive it. The mechanic thinks its the vaccum, or the speed controller. I am going to take it back tonight since they have had it for a week. Does anyone have any experience with this problem, and if soo, what can i do to fix it.
EMERGENCY!! timing help (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 70LCruiser
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Sorry - I am confused on what you are saying. Did they set timing but that didn't fix the problem or are they saying they couldn't set timing? Did it run fine (or atleast the same) before you did the carb rebuild and related work?
Is this stock carb or other? Headers?
Have you done a compression test recently?
AndrewT
Is this stock carb or other? Headers?
Have you done a compression test recently?
AndrewT
- Thread starter
- #3
sorry about the confusion, im just really frustrated. It ran good before I had the carb rebuilt, just had a flat spot, which the carb guy said was because of a bad carb. Its a stock 2 barrel, nothing special like a weber or anything. No headers, but I do have an ACCEL coil. The mechanic said when they did the timing it wasnt running right, it was still backfiring. He said that he set it to where the book says, and it doesnt run right.
do a search
A quick search like within the last week will cover this. Grab a vacuum test gauge. Find max vac @ idle, back it down 1-2 merc(?) and then reset the idle to 650rpm. Or, if you own one of those suffistamacated
timing lights, program it for I believe 13 advance(65swb45 Mark help here) turn the dizzy till you get the ball at the pointer. I would suggest that in the future you send your carb to Mark @ marksoffroad(65swb45) or I've heard of Jim C.(?).
Good luck and calm the nerves w/ one of these
Campy
A quick search like within the last week will cover this. Grab a vacuum test gauge. Find max vac @ idle, back it down 1-2 merc(?) and then reset the idle to 650rpm. Or, if you own one of those suffistamacated
timing lights, program it for I believe 13 advance(65swb45 Mark help here) turn the dizzy till you get the ball at the pointer. I would suggest that in the future you send your carb to Mark @ marksoffroad(65swb45) or I've heard of Jim C.(?).Good luck and calm the nerves w/ one of these
Campy
There are lots of reasons for backfiring and timing is only 1 of them.
A backfire that is impressive enough to blow out your exhaust is likely caused by unburned air/ fuel mix hitting the hot exhaust manifold and then exploding. Timing isn't likely to cause this.
How did this happen? When you shut it down or during deceleration or what? These clues might help track it down.
A backfire that is impressive enough to blow out your exhaust is likely caused by unburned air/ fuel mix hitting the hot exhaust manifold and then exploding. Timing isn't likely to cause this.
How did this happen? When you shut it down or during deceleration or what? These clues might help track it down.
- Thread starter
- #6
this happened under acceleration, I made a turn stepped on thegas and then BOOM!!!, I got a new exhaust put on, and had the mechanic look over it. He put new points on, a new condensor, and adjusted the timing. It ran fine till last night. We went wheeling and on the way out there it stalled twice while i was going about 40MPH, it would sputter and than stall. Each time i adjusted the distributor, and it ran good for around a 1/2 hr and u would have to mess with the distributor. when I got it running good it would cruise at normal speed (55-60), but when it was bad, it would only do about 45
I am thinking about tearing the old points system out and putting in an electronic ignition, does anyone have any experience, info, prices, etc...
Thanks
I am thinking about tearing the old points system out and putting in an electronic ignition, does anyone have any experience, info, prices, etc...
Thanks
It seems like you are saying that you can get it running OK by adjusting the
timing, which appears to be slipping. The LC has timing gears so it can't jump
time, so if what you say is correct, that you can get the cruiser running
OK by adjusting the timing, then it follows that the timing is slipping. Is
the dissy clamp working? Perhaps the guy who adjusted your distributor
messed the clamp up.
timing, which appears to be slipping. The LC has timing gears so it can't jump
time, so if what you say is correct, that you can get the cruiser running
OK by adjusting the timing, then it follows that the timing is slipping. Is
the dissy clamp working? Perhaps the guy who adjusted your distributor
messed the clamp up.
Was the distributor removed for any reason during all of this? If not then it sounds like rgentry has hit it - the timing is slipping toward retard. There aren't a lot of ways that would happen and the clamp is the easiest to address.
Maybe your mechanic found the clamp bolt rounded and had the idea to change the clamp for you - using one that's too big? Seems tight but not really clamping? Just a thought...
Maybe your mechanic found the clamp bolt rounded and had the idea to change the clamp for you - using one that's too big? Seems tight but not really clamping? Just a thought...
- Thread starter
- #9
I didnt remove the distributor at all, and the clamp isnt a bolt type, its got like an I-hook type of clamp, where all u have to do is twist it. You may be right though, can I buy a new clamp and put it on, or do I need to get a whole new distributor.
