elocker install - 40 series FF rear!

[fjwagon]

I was thinking about the waterproofing issue when I was reading your write up( nice write by the way). You can sleeve the soldering section with shrink tubing and silicon it the rest of the way. That way you can rework it if you have problems later. They even sell the huge shrink tubing that will incase the CCA you put together.

Update!:

Went on a long road trip and got to test out the locker - worked great!

One comment - turns out you should indeed do a better job waterproofing the connectors (or use weatherproof connectors). While I still doubt that it'll ever be enough of a problem to engage the motor, I did notice that the indicator lamp malfunctioned a bit when soaked (it was glowing dimly even when unlocked). I'm going to pot the ends of the connectors in epoxy and give the junction a wrap of electrical tape.

 

[Fast Eddy]

I have the front long side inner axle from a 70 series, pre 1991, non-us, PN: 43412-60060. Do you know if they are the same dimensions/spline length?

Google seems to think that is the long-spline version. Mudrak has a stash of those in chromo too.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Google seems to think that is the long-spline version. Mudrak has a stash of those in chromo too.

Thanks for the response, Fast Eddy, but I'm aware that they are the long-splined version. I have a rear elocker from an 80 in the front of my 40. My question was since Bobby Long shows elocker chromo long side axles on his website, were they for the 80 or the 40/60/70?

Are they all the same length? Will a long side long-spline fit an 80 *and* a 40/60/70? I would think that the 80 axle is longer. Long's site doesn't describe what vehicle it fits...

Thanks, Dan

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Thanks for the response, Fast Eddy, but I'm aware that they are the long-splined version. I have a front elocker from an 80. My question was since Bobby Long shows elocker chromo long side axles on his website, were they for the 80 or the 40/60/70?

Are they all the same length? Will a long side long-spline fit an 80 *and* a 40/60/70? I would think that the 80 axle is longer. Long's site doesn't describe what vehicle it fits...

Thanks, Dan

Dan,
you have an e locker from an 80 installed in the front or did you say that you had an e locker from the front of an 80, i.e. a front e locker from an 80? The reason that I ask is that in the first few posts of this thread it was stated that the front e lockers from an 80 would not fit onto a 40 series, either front of rear. As I understood it, the gears are cut differently for the front elocker. That is why it is said that only an e locker taken from the rear of an 80 will work. Have you found things to be otherwise. Both of my e lockers are from the rear of an 80 so this clarification is not so much for me as for thread consistency.

Now as to the chromo inners from Bobby Long. I just installed the long splined front inner axle from Bobby so that it would work with my e locker. As such it fits the 40 and most likely the 45 and 55 and 60. I say that as most of my front end is identical to a 60. While I have other 70 series bits included in my front end mix I can,t speak to the inner axle fit issue. I´d just call Bobby and ask. Really easy guy to talk to. Good luck,
John

 

[Living in the Past]

As such it fits the 40 and most likely the 45 and 55 and 60. I say that as most of my front end is identical to a 60. While I have other 70 series bits included in my front end mix I can,t speak to the inner axle fit issue. I´d just call Bobby and ask. Really easy guy to talk to. Good luck,
John

I belive the mini truck long side is the same as the 60 series. The FJ40 is shorter. I believe it is the short side that is the same. I'm sure some one can set this straight.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

Dan,
you have an e locker from an 80 installed in the front or did you say that you had an e locker from the front of an 80, i.e. a front e locker from an 80? The reason that I ask is that in the first few posts of this thread it was stated that the front e lockers from an 80 would not fit onto a 40 series, either front of rear. As I understood it, the gears are cut differently for the front elocker. That is why it is said that only an e locker taken from the rear of an 80 will work. Have you found things to be otherwise. Both of my e lockers are from the rear of an 80 so this clarification is not so much for me as for thread consistency.

Good luck, John

John, the elocker in the front of my 40 is from the rear diff of an 80. The front diff on an 80 is too small for a 40.

It does however, take a while to lock, as there are only 5 large lugs. Sometimes, I'm past an obstacle before it finally locks. Thanks, Dan

 

[Fast Eddy]

Bobby Long shows elocker chromo long side axles on his website, were they for the 80 or the 40/60/70?

The long side is for the 40/70, not sure if he makes one for the 60 but probably. You'd have to call him.

Are they all the same length? Will a long side long-spline fit an 80 *and* a 40/60/70? I would think that the 80 axle is longer.

The '80 front axle is a completely different beast. Let's not even talk about it here.

The short side, passenger side of a 40, 70 and 60 are all the same. The 60 has a longer long side by 2.5". In a minitruck axle, the long side is the same as a 60, but the short side is different than both. I've never had a minitruck axle in my hand though, and I wouldn't think they'd be exactly the same as a cruiser.

did you say that you had an e locker from the front of an 80, i.e. a front e locker from an 80?

I'm sure he's got a rear locker in his front end.

the long splined front inner axle from Bobby so that it would work with my e locker. As such it fits the 40 and most likely the 45 and 55 and 60. I say that as most of my front end is identical to a 60.

The long side in a 60 is longer. See above.

I belive the mini truck long side is the same as the 60 series. The FJ40 is shorter. I believe it is the short side that is the same. I'm sure some one can set this straight.

Almost 100% right. See above.

It does however, take a while to lock, as there are only 5 large lugs. Sometimes, I'm past an obstacle before it finally locks. Thanks, Dan

If it didn't lock, you didn't need it. If you really need it, it will lock. I am always careful not to spin a lot of RPMs when it is locking.

 

[amaurer]

If it didn't lock, you didn't need it. If you really need it, it will lock. I am always careful not to spin a lot of RPMs when it is locking.

x2

I've never had any problems with it not locking up - I heard a lot of doom about the size of the lugs and the locking delay but my experience is that the design works quite well. When I need it I find that is is always locked up.

 

[Living in the Past]

Almost 100% right. See above.

Curious what part is wrong.

Also curious how you are handling the clearance in the front with the oil pan. I have been slowing collecting all the parts for E locker. Just picked up the later model 40 series FF and long splined short axle (which I was told is on the E list) and have one locker plus the long splined front. Just need to picked up the second locker. Before I do that wondering are you installing a spacer on the bump stop or handling it with a lift. Just want to know if I really want to find another locker or go a different route. Figured better here than a new thread. keep all the info together.

 

[dkroth]

Holy thread-revival Batman!

I'm seriously looking at getting an elocker for my BJ42LX (equipped with FF rear).

I found a salvage yard on the other side of town with a 1997 Lexus LX450 that allegedly has an elocker in it. Blue indicates the 3rds from FZJ80 should work just fine. The salvage yard parts lookup tool indicates the LX450 part is the same as found in the Land Cruiser of the same vintage. I don't know anything about Lexus. Anyone know if this is a proper match? I'm going to call the yard tomorrow, but the only way of really knowing is taking a ride out there (about 1:30 round trip). If I'm completely off the mark here let me know now and save me the gas!

I used FZJ80/FJ80 '93-'97 rear electric locking diff; 9.25" ring gear that fits into the front of my 1977 FJ40 with stock diff gears, 4.11 is p/n: 41110-60351.

 

[cruiserloser]

LX450 3rd member

Yes-Same as the Land Cruiser. I have the same set-up in my 1977. Drew (amaurer) fashioned-up the harness for me. Works flawlessly.

Like your avatar of the full-floater. Back at you.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Holy thread-revival Batman!

Nothing like answering year-old questions.

Also curious how you are handling the clearance in the front with the oil pan.

I lowered my front bump stops about an inch and it has held up for a couple years. I don't think it would withstand a jump, however. A lift is the key. I could not recommend an e-locker in the front end of a stock rig with a 2f. The oil pan in a 3b is shorter, and would probably be fine.

 

[amaurer]

The oil pan in a 3b is shorter, and would probably be fine.

I measured mine and it looks like there is enough room on a 3b - sorta nestles right in front on the "sump" portion of the pan.

However I'd still feel a lot better about it with a lift, all the same.

 

[dkroth]

Yes-Same as the Land Cruiser. I have the same set-up in my 1977.

Good deal. I think I'll have time tomorrow afternoon to run out there and buy it. The axle is still in the truck. Presumably the yard will pull it for me, which is OK because I just realized I have no way to transport a whole axle. I'm going to have to hit up a buddy with a truck or maybe rent the Home Depot truck.

Like your avatar of the full-floater. Back at you.

Thanks. Well, you did me one better - I reused my e-brake hardware and adjuster. Just cleaned them up with some steel wool. They only had light surface rust. That's the BEST thing about a truck from Australia - not a single rusted/frozen nut or bolt.

 

[Volcano cruiser]

Yes-Same as the Land Cruiser. I have the same set-up in my 1977. Drew (amaurer) fashioned-up the harness for me. Works flawlessly.

Like your avatar of the full-floater. Back at you.

This is the prettiest full floater I have ever seen. Looks just like it was right off the show room floor. I have FF but mine, even cleaned up for the RDB install probably hasn't looked that good in 30 years.

 

[amaurer]

This is the prettiest full floater I have ever seen. Looks just like it was right off the show room floor. I have FF but mine, even cleaned up for the RDB install probably hasn't looked that good in 30 years.

x2

Here's mine...

I may have cleaned it up a bit before reinstalling...

 

[dkroth]

Andrew,

Any tips on putting this all back together and getting it indexed correctly the first time?

I'm getting into my conversion now. Imagine a large ball of rust and aluminum oxide with a elock actuator somewhere inside. That's what I was dealing with. I've been sand blasting (glass beading) and disassembling most of the day. Unfortunately, I didn't bother to take pictures as I was pulling stuff apart. I'm sure I can get it all back together, but there's obviously a "correct" way to do it.

Also, did you replace the O-rings that seal the motor and actuator? Mine were dry-rotted into oblivion. I'm not sure my local hardware store is going to have the correct sizes (RTV to the rescue!).

This is what's in there, so you don't have to go looking:

 

[dkroth]

Pics of parts. Note the corrosion in pic 2. I'm thinking liberal application of RTV in addition to a new o-ring.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Somewhere I have seen the "in" and "out" measurements. I'll look around.

Edit: late now, but it's in the first post of this thread.

While I'm posting in here, I'm looking for another hardened shaft that the collar rides on. Mine is slightly bent, though it works.

 

[amaurer]

Oh man you're in for a treat. [EXTREME SARCASM]

First get the motor back together. The big problem there is the brushes - I used a piece of string to hold each brush in place with the spring compressed, then installed the rear motor cover (with the armature in installed in the cover) until it was nearly seated and then removed the strings to release the brushes. Thats the big issue.

Then reinstall the actuator rod in the main housing and position it so that its at the proper length for either the fully extended or fully collapsed position. I don't think it matters which position its in as long as its at one extreme. Ref:

I won't go into it, but if you do disassemble your actuator and lose the relative positions of the cogs, you'll need to know the the "unlocked" position is ~2 1/8 to 2 3/16" extension and the locked position should be about 2 7/8 to 3 1/8" extension.

Then reinstall the gearset with the tension spring and the sliding electrical contacts. You'll need to look at the contacts on it and just try your best to get it positioned so that electrically things are where they need to be. There is about +/- 1 tooth of error on the assembly so you'll need to be prepared when you pop it in to give things a test run and see if you guessed the teeth correctly.

Ideally you'd power it with a completed controller so you don't overdrive the motor and have to take the gear out and reposition things. However in a pinch you can hotwire it to git'er'done... but I didn't write down the motor polarity so thats trial and error. Basically you'll power the motor through the limit switches.

I too broke my O-rings and used RTV.