elocker install - 40 series FF rear!

[amaurer]

Somewhere I have seen the "in" and "out" measurements. I'll look around.

Post #1? And now #60.

 

[dkroth]

First get the motor back together. The big problem there is the brushes

I put the motor together an took it apart a couple times already. I used thin pieces of tape to hold the brushes in place while sliding the armature into place. The tape is removed and the brushes fall into place.

I hold the armature in place with two fingers thru the gearbox opening while sliding the field magnets (motor cover) into place. The armature has to be held tight otherwise the magnets will pull it out of place.

I tested the motor in both directions to make sure it ran freely.

Then reinstall the gearset with the tension spring and the sliding electrical contacts. You'll need to look at the contacts on it and just try your best to get it positioned so that electrically things are where they need to be.

I missed the part in your first post about general set-up. It's been over three months since I read this thread in it's entirety. I should probably go back and do that again just so I don't miss somthing.

The way these things go for me it will be weeks (or months!) before I've got this all buttoned up.

I too broke my O-rings and used RTV.

The o-rings weren't even o-rings anymore. They had hardened and bonded with the rust and aluminum oxide to form some sort of fossilized, primordial crud. I just ordered new o-rings this evening from an online source - I couldn't find them locally. Due to the corrosion I'm going to use RTV to make sure the seals are TIGHT. I don't want any water getting in there.

Thanks for the helpful and informative response.

 

[dkroth]

While I'm posting in here, I'm looking for another hardened shaft that the collar rides on. Mine is slightly bent, though it works.

How the hell did it get bent? That's a pretty stout piece of metal. I'd think the housing would crack before that shaft would bend...

 

[mdman]

Nope, you can't use any of those assemblies. This is part of the confusion I had.

The ONLY locker you can use is the one from the rear of an FJ80. No high pinion anything. No 8"ers from the trucks. Only the 9.5" landcruiser, non-high pinion third will work, and this is only from the FJ80 rear.

So it is not possible to drop in the high pinion FJ80 into the front axle of an FJ40 to adjust lifted driveline angles?

 

[Devil Frog]

So it is not possible to drop in the high pinion FJ80 into the front axle of an FJ40 to adjust lifted driveline angles?

No, but the standard pinion rear elocker from the FZJ80 will fit in your FJ40's front axle. If you need your your driveline angle adjusted you can do that via angled shims or can also cut off your spring perches and rotate the axle and weld on perches at your desired angle. Keep in mind this will change your castor angle.

 

[mdman]

I'm trying to avoid cutting and turning the axle. Does anyone know of any high pinion third members that would fit an FJ40 disc axle housing?

 

[fjgoober]

You could just put in the entire fj80 axle and diff under it. They are 8 inches wider. I put both front and rear under mine (with e-lockers) and love the wider stance.