Electrical nightmare? (1 Viewer)

[Kschep]

I feel like people are afraid to touch this thread sometimes lol - anyways ...
im trying to figure out my Green/Red situation between my Hazard plug, Light Switch, and Fuse box. Between all the Green/Red color coded wires there are 2 sizes which I believe are 14 and 16. Wiring diagrams don't have 2 Green/Red wires going straight to Hazard plug as my rig Does - it shows one going straight there that's protected by a 15amp and then one protected by a 20amp that does ultimately connect to the hazard plug but it goes through the horn relay / stop light switch/ and something else first (Which mine Does Not). And then finally the light switch has a Green/Red that goes to it from fuse box protected by a 15amp. So I need to straighten that out by figuring out which Green/Red on the fuse block needs to run through the horn relay/stop light switch/coolingfantimer and what size that wire gauge should be? And, how do I know which size gauge to use between the three

 

[Cruiserman13]

I feel like people are afraid to touch this thread sometimes lol - anyways ...
im trying to figure out my Green/Red situation between my Hazard plug, Light Switch, and Fuse box. Between all the Green/Red color coded wires there are 2 sizes which I believe are 14 and 16. Wiring diagrams don't have 2 Green/Red wires going straight to Hazard plug as my rig Does - it shows one going straight there that's protected by a 15amp and then one protected by a 20amp that does ultimately connect to the hazard plug but it goes through the horn relay / stop light switch/ and something else first (Which mine Does Not). And then finally the light switch has a Green/Red that goes to it from fuse box protected by a 15amp. So I need to straighten that out by figuring out which Green/Red on the fuse block needs to run through the horn relay/stop light switch/coolingfantimer and what size that wire gauge should be? And, how do I know which size gauge to use between the three

You can't go wrong by using the larger size. It sounds like your diagram you are using is either wrong or for a different year. I use Chilton diagrams and it is correct. Having the diagram and what your looking at not sync is a frustrating sob.

 

[MOTOV8R]

My 79 harness is sitting on my work bench. I have a PDF of the diagram as well as the Chilton. If you had a 79 I might be able to help but it's hard to jump in without the exact right info. I am in the process of trying to clean up all the junk and cleanly incorporate all the aftermarket stuff including proper relays. The blue tape looks familiar. Good luck, keep plugging away. A multimeter is super helpful for wire tracing and verifying all your grounds.

 

[Kschep]

A multimeter is super helpful for wire tracing and verifying all your grounds.

Just got one recently and am curious how u went about this?

 

[MOTOV8R]

use the setting that beeps for continuity. Check all the white wires with the black stripes for continuity back to the main ground wire. For other wires you can trace them by checking each end to see if they are connected.

I did look at my hazard but I am pretty sure it's different for 79. The only green and red wire coming from mine went to the flasher and returned green and blue. Power was green with white. I didn't see any pins that had 2 wires.

Pretty easy to wire trace once you pull it all the way out and remove the tape and conduit

 

[Kschep]

ya I wish I had just torn it out and I still can but I have a good enough understanding to fix I in place - this is just one of the last little snags I ran into and I can't trust any of the previous work to be correct. if I just trusted it I would be an idiot. do it once and do it right.

 

[Kschep]

Anyone have any good methods of recovering splice joint where like 4 wires come off one?

 

[Cruiserman13]

Anyone have any good methods of recovering splice joint where like 4 wir

 

[Kschep]

View attachment 2650690

In the middle of the harness inside my firewall? Tough to wrap everything else and then have a couple of those in the middle Etc

But I like that idea

 

[3_puppies]

Anyone have any good methods of recovering splice joint where like 4 wires come off one?

what part of the harness has 1 wire leading to 4?

 

[Engineer8000]

Get a yellow butt splice, remove the plastic cover. Cut the metal splice in half, that gives you two ferrules you can use to crimp several wires together. You can get un insulated splices also but not as available locally for me. Wrap it up or use shrink wrap to insulate.

 

[Cruiserman13]

In the middle of the harness inside my firewall? Tough to wrap everything else and then have a couple of those in the middle Etc

But I like that id

I soldered anything like that on mine. Solder is the best most solid connection and then I use electric tape to cover.

 

[Kschep]

what part of the harness has 1 wire leading to 4?

Which part doesn’t? Lol

 

[MOTOV8R]

I am using liquid electrical tape for those and then wrapping that in self fusing tape. Though I am not fully sold on the self fusing tape. I may just use 3M supper 88.

 

[Kschep]

So in regards to my red/black wires in regards to Haynes diagram vs Coolerman website’s diagram. Red/black are for interior lights, accessory light plug, light switch to circuit, etc...you can see as I highlighted in pics...

my question is this the Haynes has the red/blacks all spliced together heading off too different light function but also included in that splice is the red/black that goes from the barrel plug/circuit board over to light pull switch (AS Shown in pics where I’m holding the red/black splice joint in my hand as well as the pic of the barrel plug my new cluster came with (cut directly off 78 together) also shows the same splice joint.
BUT IN COOLERMANS DIAGRAM THERE IS A dedicated Red/Black going from light switch directly to barrel plug circuit board connector with NO visible splices.

since mine has the splice joint - is it okay to NOT have a dedicated red/black from light switch to circuit board plug? And just have that connection routed through the other lines as well which go to dash light, other interior light, etc

 

[ToyotaMatt]

So in regards to my red/black wires in regards to Haynes diagram vs Coolerman website’s diagram. Red/black are for interior lights, accessory light plug, light switch to circuit, etc...you can see as I highlighted in pics...

my question is this the Haynes has the red/blacks all spliced together heading off too different light function but also included in that splice is the red/black that goes from the barrel plug/circuit board over to light pull switch (AS Shown in pics where I’m holding the red/black splice joint in my hand as well as the pic of the barrel plug my new cluster came with (cut directly off 78 together) also shows the same splice joint.
BUT IN COOLERMANS DIAGRAM THERE IS A dedicated Red/Black going from light switch directly to barrel plug circuit board connector with NO visible splices.

since mine has the splice joint - is it okay to NOT have a dedicated red/black from light switch to circuit board plug? And just have that connection routed through the other lines as well which go to dash light, other interior light, etc

View attachment 2658649

View attachment 2658650

View attachment 2658651

View attachment 2658652

View attachment 2658653

red w/ black tracer is interior illumination only ..

comes off out of the center terminal bay of a usa spec lighted knob switch , then feeds all the gauges ,, in cluster meter , in padded dash lamp , under dash triangle bracket shifter lamp , then also the external and separate , metal socket bulb pigtail sticking inside the rear of your headlight dimmer switch too , that can be confusing , but simple way of explaining in a nut shell


hope this helps ?

matt

 

[Kschep]

It does help but I think my ultimate question is should recreate a dedicated light switch to barrel plug R/B wire OR can I just use one if the splices and as long as they are connected the extra splice-offs going to the instrument lights is going to interrupt anything electrically

 

[Kschep]

Man I think I’m way over thinking it ... but the Haynes version vs coolermans version show two different ways to route it and I wanted to make sure I did it right.... I think the answer is going to be don’t waste time running a new line just use the splice... because the Haynes shows that

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Man I think I’m way over thinking it ... but the Haynes version vs coolermans version show two different ways to route it and I wanted to make sure I did it right.... I think the answer is going to be don’t waste time running a new line just use the splice... because the Haynes shows that

do home work a series circuit and a parallel circuit / differences etc ..........

you must keep what ever you repair in parallel ...format

no exceptions here rule

 

[MOTOV8R]

Red with black are all lights that come off your light switch dimmer. It can be spliced any where as long as all the lights that need to be powered on the dimmer circuit are connected.