Electrical nightmare?

[Engineer8000]

What would soldering do for it ... just solidify?

If your crimp is not that great then the solder can help ensure a good connection. There is a lot of misinformation out there on solder connections.

 

[kerplunk]

What would soldering do for it ... just solidify?

A good crimp with quality terminals is going to be the strongest.

I have, while working on boats, melted a bunch of solder into it *hoping* that maybe it would deter water (or the salty type) from corroding my stuff long. This was without paying for the tinned wire that I should have been using, and without really putting my effort into research. I dunno if it actually helped... It won't add strength. (and I did put the gluey waterproof heat shrink over it also).

On my FJ40, I use the terminals with the heat shrink on them and just crimp and heat. That's already a higher standard than anything I've seen from the factory on any car I've owned (which are just crimped onto terminals / connectors).

 

[Kschep]

A good crimp with quality terminals is going to be the strongest.

I have, while working on boats, melted a bunch of solder into it *hoping* that maybe it would deter water (or the salty type) from corroding my stuff long. This was without paying for the tinned wire that I should have been using, and without really putting my effort into research. I dunno if it actually helped... It won't add strength. (and I did put the gluey waterproof heat shrink over it also).

On my FJ40, I use the terminals with the heat shrink on them and just crimp and heat. That's already a higher standard than anything I've seen from the factory on any car I've owned (which are just crimped onto terminals / connectors).

Appreciate it

 

[Kschep]

Well I got the column out ... found this little area I need to clean up with some POR-15 ... and then now it’s out it presents such an easier space to work with (for me) to trace harness splices and correct properly.

 

[Kschep]

These will be easier to hook up.. Question for this steering column - does anyone know if the green and yellowing chipped one in my pics go into one another or if they are different connections for different things ?
these are the three plugs on the new steering column by the way
Thx

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ok

Your NEW hand made by me kustom alternator repair connectors service soec. Connectors w/Leeds per toyota lingo

- 6 feet of wire per your request

- 10 guage on the B+ terminal large white wire with new OEM yazaki back rubber terminal boot

- then the green and white and black tracer white wire are nestled into a UV rated high heat application black 3 pin connector as u see

The red boot is for your starter cable from battery B+

I noticed it was simply free to arc to ground with a slip of a tool or wrench

Safety first is NO joke !

Get with me via PM

For your needed electrical supplies for steering column


Any cracked and broken COLuMn side device connectors need to be replaced with new ones

No half measures here we do I correct my the book the first time and move on to the next task at hand ...


My NoS pet 27020-61022 likes to have its photo taken

 

[Kschep]

And you'll need a new ignition switch and turn signal switch

Why do I need new ignition switch and turn signal switch

 

[kerplunk]

Why do I need new ignition switch and turn signal switch

Assuming the switches on the '90'sh 4runner colum aren't going to fit an FJ40 colum?

 

[Kschep]

Assuming the switches on the '90'sh 4runner colum aren't going to fit an FJ40 colum?

oh I see what your saying - well lucky me it all came with the column - complete assembly only baby

 

[Kschep]

Ok so after some work I have identified I believe most of what I need to address here.
The main 3 issues seem to be how the PO decided to:
1. add in mid 80’s column and all the newer style plugs associated / rewiring to fit plugs associated
2. add ARB lockers - their switches wiring mainly funky but it did work at time I purchased before I disconnected from battery leads bec. I knew it was sucking my battery dead which is was.
...associated with the ARB switches:
3. The aftermarket RPM gauge wiring and plug (2nd/3rd pics) is weird and RPM gauge never worked so obviously it’s haywire here. The ARB switches and the in-cab PSI meter and the RPM gauge are all connected together with/at their respective Red wires and then brought down over to the fuse block where the single red from 2 is then spliced into the solid black wire going into fuse block (pic 1). I know confusing I’ll get more pics and tell a better story tmrw. But it’s a start

RPM plug picture breakdown (pic 3)
-2 wires shoved into one prong of plug:
-Has a added solid white wire (PO had this wrapped around OEM solid green on main harness (parking light wire I believe) / not sure why?
-Little red is from in-cab psi meter (also shoved in same prong as white)

Then, there’s another Red wire which goes to the ARB on/off switches, then back to fuse block as previously mentioned.
Black wire (not hooked to anything; maybe tore out at some point - not sure where it was supposed to go)
Green wire (from opposite side of firewall - still tracing this one)

Any thoughts for me? - or words of encouragement

here’s my thought: rewire back to basic/correct wiring, check functions and power, wire this RPM gauge correctly (or just take away and get new OEM gauge cluster - ouch $) - once I get everything working correctly find out best practices for how/where to wire in a ARB switches hot line.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Ok so after some work I have identified I believe most of what I need to address here.
The main 3 issues seem to be how the PO decided to:
1. add in mid 80’s column and all the newer style plugs associated / rewiring to fit plugs associated
2. add ARB lockers - their switches wiring mainly funky but it did work at time I purchased before I disconnected from battery leads bec. I knew it was sucking my battery dead which is was.
...associated with the ARB switches:
3. The aftermarket RPM gauge wiring and plug (2nd/3rd pics) is weird and RPM gauge never worked so obviously it’s haywire here. The ARB switches and the in-cab PSI meter and the RPM gauge are all connected together with/at their respective Red wires and then brought down over to the fuse block where the single red from 2 is then spliced into the solid black wire going into fuse block (pic 1). I know confusing I’ll get more pics and tell a better story tmrw. But it’s a start

RPM plug picture breakdown (pic 3)
-2 wires shoved into one prong of plug:
-Has a added solid white wire (PO had this wrapped around OEM solid green on main harness (parking light wire I believe) / not sure why?
-Little red is from in-cab psi meter (also shoved in same prong as white)

Then, there’s another Red wire which goes to the ARB on/off switches, then back to fuse block as previously mentioned.
Black wire (not hooked to anything; maybe tore out at some point - not sure where it was supposed to go)
Green wire (from opposite side of firewall - still tracing this one)

Any thoughts for me? - or words of encouragement

here’s my thought: rewire back to basic/correct wiring, check functions and power, wire this RPM gauge correctly (or just take away and get new OEM gauge cluster - ouch $) - once I get everything working correctly find out best practices for how/where to wire in a ARB switches hot line.

View attachment 2569515

View attachment 2569516

View attachment 2569517

it would be VERY smart to unwrap say 6 solid inches of old elec tape and look for melted wires leeds

then using a pick , unlock each inline conenctor off the fuse box and look for melting in the plastic


common issue here


\btw

here is all you elec. supplies

i arranged for express Sunday delivery ..........

i got your back !


below is everything you need

- color coded tracer stripe oem wire various gauges

- every color rolls of tape

- 3-M heat shrink crimp butts , LEARN HOW TO USE these correctly before u do , they aint cheap

- connectors and terminals you spec'd

- SUNDAY Delivery express over night mail

- you may ask why am i doing all this ?

- i believe in PAY FORWARD and pay HARD !

this is one of these times , if i set you up for success you will Succsess and learn a hell of alot too in the process

you need a good set ofd double open barrel dies crimps and insulated terminals ones too

ratchet type

i expect to see this after you practice some , i included extra YAZAKI terminals for practice learn curve


here is what you want to see at end of day

i will be watching ....no slackers crimps ....

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

lastly GREAT TECH

read this twice

good luck

matt

Marine Wire Termination - Marine How To

Marine Wire Termination - Tools of the Trade MHT Recommended Tools: The products below are our top picks for crimp tools. RecommendationsI include; PRO GRADE, MARINE GRADE, & PENNY SAVER GRADE. Every tool recommended BELOW, we have tested here.

marinehowto.com

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[Kschep]

This solid black wire going into fuse box below the solid red at top - where does it go? What is it?

cant quite figure that out from the diagrams - doesn’t have a solid black coming out of fuse box in 76 diagram I got off Coolermans website or the Haynes

I see a solid black going from the igniter to the coil but not seeing it go to fuse box ... or is that what it is?

 

[ToyotaMatt]

This solid black wire going into fuse box below the solid red at top - where does it go? What is it?

cant quite figure that out from the diagrams - doesn’t have a solid black coming out of fuse box in 76 diagram I got off Coolermans website or the Haynes

I see a solid black going from the igniter to the coil but not seeing it go to fuse box ... or is that what it is?

View attachment 2590914

look for a black w/ yellow stripe

 

[Engineer8000]

Pretty sure that is the IGN wire

 

[kerplunk]

Second fuse from the top.

Looking at a '74 diagram and assuming it's similar, might be the ignition.

It should go through the ignition switch first, where different wires would come out, not straight to the coil from the fuse panel.