Electrical issues

[Landinkyle]

99 tlc was having electrical issues while driving that included the ac going in and out, the factory radio turning off, and even dying while idled in line for a burger. I took the car to oreilly and the battery tested bad, so they gave me a new one. After a few days the car did the same thing, so I suspected the battery died due to bad alternator. Charged the battery took the car to oreilly and alternator tested bad. Ordered remanufactured Bosch from rock auto and put it in. Everything was fine for about a week of normal driving which included a drive up and back from austin to OKC. And now we're having the same symptoms. battery gauge showed on the 3/4 mark until yesterday when it started with same symptoms. Would another bad pulley cause this? Locked up AC? I'm new to mechanic work but would like to learn something and avoid paying more than I have to. All help is appreciated.

 

[Madskillz98]

I've had some similar problems but sorry no fix. I've had the after market stereo shut off and antenna go down for a couple mins. Then restart. I've had AC and or maybe just air shut off or just not come one for awhile and I've had O'Riellys tell me my alternator was bad. Also my brakes used to make my blinkers come on solid as well as light up my dash blinkers indicators, and then the blinkers just wouldn't work. I've done nothing and none of those things have happened for months. So weird. Good luck and I'll be watching this post for ideas.

Also, my skylight got stuck open and I had to have it put back and disconnected. I do have a feeling this was electrical and not mechanical.

 

[vman07]

I'd buy a multimeter and see what volts you are getting off the battery with the vehicle running. With vehicle running you should get anywhere from 13.2 to 14.6 volts indicating that your alternator is working. I would not rely on the vehicle volt gauge to give me any reliable or useable information.

Check your battery terminals for good contact, clean your terminals and battery posts with something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Post-and-Terminal-Cleaner/dp/B002PS7QRK

Check your ground connections in the engine bay. Anytime you see a wire screwed into the engine bay that is a ground. Make sure there is metal to metal good contact there.

 

[Dwight S]

Check your battery terminals. I had similar symptoms and my positive terminal was corroded completely into where the terminal bolted to the fuse block. I purchased a new one from my Toyota dealership and haven't had any more problems. This was December last year.

 

[Landinkyle]

Cleaned battery terms and bought multimeter. Getting 13.42 while running with ac, lights, and radio off. 12.7 and dropping with everything on. Thoughts?

 

[Landinkyle]

Does it matter that I'm missing one of these fuses? Now down to 12.3 after running for a few with everything on.

 

[RobRed]

The "missing" fuse isn't really missing. Its should be an empty slot. That fuse box is generic for several vehicles.

This really sounds like a battery issue. To be thorough make sure the ground cable from battery to engine block is securely installed.

 

[dogdaysindurham]

Check your various cables, even if your terminal / lugs are now clean. The copper wire could be corroded. I've been replacing the ground wiring with tinned marine cable and new lugs as part of the "big 3" upgrade.

Also did you clean the main alternator lugged cable before attaching it to the replacement alternator? I would also clean your alternator plug with some contact cleaner, it's possible the alternator sense connection is poor.

 

[Landinkyle]

So I drove over to an oreilly and they tested and showed that the voltage regulator was bad. Diodes tested ok, but voltage failed. Swapping out for a new one and we will see how long this one lasts.

 

[dogdaysindurham]

Oh dang that sucks. Do you happen to know if you had the 80 or 100A alternator originally?

I think you can order and rebuild the factory OEM with made in japan OEM replacement parts.
Est. Prices I found.
27700-75020 Voltage Regulator US$ 139.15
27357-20060 100 Amp Rectifier US$ 74.52
27357-55080 80 Amp Rectifier US$ 116.85
27370-75060 Brush Holder US$ 15.05
90099-10192 Front Bearing US$ 11.92
90099-10194 Rear Bearing US$ 8.12

 

[Landinkyle]

Thanks for the info. I'm not sure what the original was. I returned it for core charge at rock auto. I replaced with Bosch 100 amp. Since I'm crunched for time I just got the oreilly house brand this time around. Hopefully it holds up longer than the Bosch.