Electric E-Brake

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I'd considered this an option a while back and now someone is implementing it...


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Now all I'd like to do is figure out how to do it for less than $400 (USD) a side for calipers. More and more cars have electric parking brakes.
 
I'd considered this an option a while back and now someone is implementing it...


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Now all I'd like to do is figure out how to do it for less than $400 (USD) a side for calipers. More and more cars have electric parking brakes.
I wonder how much they appreciate fjording rivers...
 
I wonder how much they appreciate fjording rivers...
Although they do have O-ring seals on the calipers water could be a potential problem.
 
Maybe one on a tcase ebrake would be ok, might be eaier to wire than to make custom brake cable. Purchase price would be the question.

Wilwood mechanical I used works ok. Beats finding a rock when I'm back and forth through the back gate :lol:
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Because 40 series T-case drum brakes don’t hold awesome… but for the money it would cost the stock drum could be rebuilt 5 times over. A mechanical calliper looks like the better option though.
Not so true… well adjusted without being soaked in oil (like most of them are) they work very well. Plus you get the benefit of locking the whole driveline when in 4wd.

I’ve never had complaints (once maintained and adjusted) with the tcase brake on a 40.

I’ve had more issue with the bell cranks on 60 and later 40 axle e-brakes.

YMMV.
 
But for the sake of someone being the devil's avocado..


How many of us are still running non split cases with a tcase ebrake? I haven't even seen one in ten years or more.

The split case ones exist but are not exactly easy to find if you don't already have one.
 
Not so true… well adjusted without being soaked in oil (like most of them are) they work very well. Plus you get the benefit of locking the whole driveline when in 4wd.
Well the rear drum brakes still “lock everything in” when 4wd is engaged. More surface area, more hold. No leaky TC but there’s axles seals that keep the opinions going.
 
Not so true… well adjusted without being soaked in oil (like most of them are) they work very well. Plus you get the benefit of locking the whole driveline when in 4wd.

I’ve never had complaints (once maintained and adjusted) with the tcase brake on a 40.

I’ve had more issue with the bell cranks on 60 and later 40 axle e-brakes.

YMMV.
Are you saying that my E-Brake would hold better if I went through it again? It's not oil soaked or anything... just hasn't had much done to it since I rebuilt it in Dec '91. For all I know it may have been beyond measurement back in '91... but it did work in the beginning.
 
Well the rear drum brakes still “lock everything in” when 4wd is engaged. More surface area, more hold. No leaky TC but there’s axles seals that keep the opinions going.
There's also a mechanical advantage factor. Tcase brake has 4.1 over the wheels. (Or 3.7 if that's your kink)

I guess in theory that lets them get away with the smaller surface area.

Maybe they didn't account for the neglect of the owners ... My first cruiser the lever cut the center hub off as neat as a lathe because the guy kept adding spacers to the ebrake cable 🤣
 
Cool! Working? Or still a work in progress?

Since starting thread I’ve come across a couple different options (neither electric).

1) disc brake callipers with E-Brake. Nothing new, but they may work with my ‘79 Chevy rotors and brackets… still looking into. This picture shows the Eldorado callipers on a 8 bolt disc because I have been looking for disc brake options for my Dana 70 dually axle.
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2) Sterling 10.5” backing plates that would with a drum e-brake in the centre of the rotor. The original rotors are 8 bolt and I don’t know if a 6 bolt rotor could be found with an e-brake drum in the middle.

I’m tracking down backing plates and hardware for a disc brake conversion on my Dana 70 axle. I probably won’t go ahead with that until the drums are worn out… I’m on the second set of shoes, and I’m pretty sure they will be beyond turning before I need a third set. When I get there, I’m going to check if they will clear a 15” rim… or if running them on my 40 would require a larger rim. I’d rather not change my 40 rims so it would be a deal breaker if they don’t fit under a 15” rim.

Here are pictures from fordmann.com | F-250: Dana 70U Rear Disc Conversion - https://www.fordmann.com/F250.Dana_70U.htm

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Cool. What application were they?

I used a Wildwood mechanical caliper on my tcase disc ebrake but it's kinda mediocre. Doesn't hold on much of a slope.

I guess the only thing with electric is they're pretty much on or off, but i suppose that's fine for parking or emergency...
 
I got one side installed this weekend and tested it with 12 volts. It could probably be modulated to apply pressure gently but judging by the size of the pads, I'm not sure how effective it would be as an emergency brake. As a parking brake, however, it seems to have plenty of holding force. I'm going to wire it to a smart relay, activated by the factory parking brake handle. These come from a 2012-19 model S and say Brembo on them. I think the model X was the same.

If the rig didn't already have a working disc brake conversion using mini-truck stuff I would have looked at an integrated hydraulic/electric caliber. There are lots of options. The wreckers have lots of six-bolt Acadia/ Encore types of rigs that look right.
 
Yeah the wife's Mazda cx5 has electric ebrake too. I'd be interested to find one to play around with. Something with a very common application.


I'll give my mechanical one another adjustment before I bail on it. Think my cable is stretching or the jacket compressing. I always seem to be at the end of the pull levers travel.
 

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