EGR is going to be the death of me...save me! (1 Viewer)

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Have seen the resistor mod perform exactly as needed 100% of the time
Do you know of a write-up detailing this? Been searching for a while and all I see is people saying it is the way to go, but can't find much info on how to do it.
 
Unplug the EGR temp sensor and plug in a 4.7 kohm resistor into the plug (on the wiring harness side). Cover with electrical tape and no more CEL. Get a 5 pack from radio shack so if you bend or break one there's some extras.

Also cap off the vacuum lines to the EGR valve and EGR modulator.

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Unplug the EGR temp sensor and plug in a 4.7 kohm resistor into the plug (on the wiring harness side). Cover with electrical tape and no more CEL. Get a 5 pack from radio shack so if you bend or break one there's some extras.

Also cap off the vacuum lines to the EGR valve and EGR modulator.

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so I wired up the 4.7 to the temp sensor side of the plug like so (the red circle is the resistor in heat shrink)
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and cleared the code by disconnecting the battery. But only got 16 miles before the CEL came back on. So my question is do I need to clear it with one of the OBD2 readers or is the battery way good enough and I have just messed something up.
 
Be sure the resistor is on the wiring harness side of the plug (you shouldn't be able to pull it out of the engine bay).
 
Remove it, put in resistor, call it done.
 
Be sure the resistor is on the wiring harness side of the plug (you shouldn't be able to pull it out of the engine bay).
Do u have a picture? I used a code reader to clear the code and it still popped at 37 miles
 
Do u have a picture? I used a code reader to clear the code and it still popped at 37 miles

I pulled the temp sensor from the intake and the plug. I cut the wires off the sensor and put it back in the intake. I disassembled the plug, cut off as much of the wires as I could, and soldered the resistor to the leads. I reassembled the plug (picture) and covered the resistor in hot glue.

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I pulled the temp sensor from the intake and the plug. I cut the wires off the sensor and put it back in the intake. I disassembled the plug, cut off as much of the wires as I could, and soldered the resistor to the leads. I reassembled the plug (picture) and covered the resistor in hot glue.

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This may sound like a stupid question but my resistor is a different color and stripes. Is that because I bought the wrong kind or is that irrelevant?
 
This may sound like a stupid question but my resistor is a different color and stripes. Is that because I bought the wrong kind or is that irrelevant?
My resistor is a 4.7K Ohm 1/2 watt resistor. I also have 4.7K Ohm 1/8 watt resistor that is very small and tan.
 
Make sure the resistor is 4.7K yellow, violet, red There is no 4.7 ohm made just 47 470 4.7K etc.

In this application the 1/4 watt should be sufficient.
 
I am now at a total loss. I have tried two different brands of resistors. I have tried two different methods of putting the resistor on the connection and am still getting CEL. Unless i am using the wrong connection on the wiring harness i have no idea where to go next. I ultimately plan on finding the real root of the problem and fixing it but i have to pass emissions by next sunday.
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The CEL is throwing because the ECU is attempting to do a self test on the EGR system and is not seeing the expected values on the 'temp sensor' that is now a fixed resistor. There's another thread somewhere that talks about how to get past this with a relay wired up to give the expected response. You'll need to do that every time the ECU is reset, or codes are cleared.
 
The CEL is throwing because the ECU is attempting to do a self test on the EGR system and is not seeing the expected values on the 'temp sensor' that is now a fixed resistor. There's another thread somewhere that talks about how to get past this with a relay wired up to give the expected response. You'll need to do that every time the ECU is reset, or codes are cleared.
so im missing a step? I have been clearing the code with a reader then applying resistor and getting about 45 miles. I only need 60-70 miles to pass the readiness on the emissions test
 
so im missing a step? I have been clearing the code with a reader then applying resistor and getting about 45 miles. I only need 60-70 miles to pass the readiness on the emissions test

Yes you are missing something. The computer will cycle the EGR valve and look for the temp to change, checking 'off' = low temp and 'on' = high temp. With the resistor mod, you have to have already passed the readiness test or the test will never clear. There's a thread here somewhere that discusses using a relay to have the 'on value' and 'off value' with two resistors and a relay to make the computer see the right values and pass the readiness test.
 
Yes you are missing something. The computer will cycle the EGR valve and look for the temp to change, checking 'off' = low temp and 'on' = high temp. With the resistor mod, you have to have already passed the readiness test or the test will never clear. There's a thread here somewhere that discusses using a relay to have the 'on value' and 'off value' with two resistors and a relay to make the computer see the right values and pass the readiness test.
Thank You! I found the thread you were talking about hopefully this can fix my issue.
 
I installed block off plates, installed the resistor, cleared the codes, and I haven't seen a P0401 for 100 miles of driving and 6 to 7 starts.
 

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