ecm/etcs/tps/magnetic clutch/vsc/traction codes/problems

[AFL Fidalgo]

So finally saved up enough to buy a 2000 land cruiser with 220k.. the previous owner (1 owner) had a huge stack of all the records (timing belt/water pump done 20k ago) so I was thinking good to go decent one owner well maintained rig... not so far.. I had the local shop in town go over it after purchasing a few weeks ago just for peace of mind and I thought it seemed odd the idle changed (up) when heater was on (even low setting) (I was thinking alternator or battery) they said everything looked good and only valve cover gaskets needed replaced so I went ahead and had it done (450$ later) I only drive a mile and a half each way to work during the week so didnt go anywhere till the weekend (tried to drive to Seattle around an hour and a half from here) truck started bumping/hesitating/misfiring whatever you want to call it.. especially stopped at a light while in drive.. went to toyota dealer here had no codes showing other than battery/alternator.. couldnt get an appointment for a week, so replaced cable connectors, charged/tested battery (good) changed all fluids and ran seaphome through a tank of premium.. no difference. finally got in to have alternator swapped (I didnt want to attempt it having to crawl around in the mud and rain also sounds as though the 2000 year has to have steering pulley and coolant lines pulled to get it out) anyhow now alternator is in no change in driving but magnetic clutch code and vsc traction lights are on as well.. strange that it took so long for these codes to show up? so after reading almost every thread i could find on here (and anything that pops up on google I see it can be any number of things (idle air, intake, throttle sensor, accelerator sensor, the control module, and on and on.. I have heard others mention the dealerships just told them to replace the entire etcs for around 1600$ ?! yikes... others have said to just start by doing the small items (sensors, etc..) I also was wondering what advice on buying used stuff on ebay instead of new people have? is this silly to buy all the other parts and hope that solves the problem while wasting a ton of labor time or is it better to just bite the bullet and shelve out all the dough to the dealer? also reading about the idle recall problem for these years?? I had hoped buying this rig was the smarter choice after looking at classic broncos, cjs, scramblers, land rovers, but now am a bit frustrated that I know zip about all the electronic stuff and am gonna shelve out a lot of dough to just have a stock rig (running properly hopefully) 12k$ would have gone a ways on an older easier to work on rig... I wonder also if valve lash or somehow that magnetic clutch sensor was screwed up when the guy did the valve cover gaskets? that stupid shop wanted double what the toyota dealership did to do the alternator! (why i went to dealer) what a joke.. Anyone offering some advice would be great (I live up by the san juan islands north of seattle a good mechanic or shop to go to?) Also wanted to say although I'm frustrated (and broke, lol) that I do like the cruiser and am looking forward to getting it overland ready once its running right! (smile)

 

[mtn2roady]

sorry to hear this and I cant help you technically, I've owned my 100 series for two months. I have partially restored a 40 series though and can tell you from experience that shooting in the dark on electrical components and buying used is risky. Also, some OEM parts are absolutely critical for fitment and function... I learned the hard way. Are there several shops nearby that you can get three or more estimates to the repair, hopefully they can converge on a solution. I personally wouldnt spend $1600 at toyota. Whats the cost differential on used parts? VSC trac light goes on for all sorts of things. Can you post the specific codes for this forum?

 

[Sandroad]

The idle can increase a bit when the A\C compessor is running. That can happen even with the "heat" on in the auto setting, so that may have been normal. Also, the valve cover gaskets can weep a bit if (when) the cover nuts get loose but that's usually fixed with a simple tightening of the nuts.

Get a OBDII code reader ($30 Actron or similar) and post back the specific numeric codes. The dash lights are not "codes".

You may find that faulty work on the valve cover gasket job is causing the problems, since they started right after that. Codes will help pinpoint what's going on.

How was the battery tested? That's hard to do properly and false positives are very common.

BTW, welcome!

 

[2001LC]

Welcome to mud, sorry to hear of you're trouble.

Posting the codes you're getting would help narrow this down. Most parts stores will read codes for you free. Once you have codes the FSM (Factory Service Manual) has specific diagnostic tree to follow.

Just stating "magnetic clutch" could be in Air Condition system or could be part of the "Throttle Control Motor".

A few thoughts that did come to mind are:

Weak electrical (battery, alternator & corroded wire connection) can cause some funny issues. Oh, and make sure battery connection are clean & greased.

Ignition coil(s) going bad can cause "bumping/hesitating/misfiring".

Throttle body, Pedal Position Senor & Gas Cap can cause "bumping/hesitating/misfiring".

Also water entering cabin from windshield area, running down A pillars getting into electronics, can cause many different issue. I bring this up because of your comments dealing with wet weather. Try drying out for week or two the best you can. You can also pull Interior side moldings near feet on PS & DS, look for moisture. Try hair dryer to speed up drying in this area.

Also pull interior "A" pillars, look for moisture & rust under windshield.

Good luck!

 

[AFL Fidalgo]

Thanks for the advice, I am still learning how to use this site properly but it seems like the best source for good info and Land cruiser info.. I am not sure wether to be happy or pissed as yesterday morning finally had a moment to crawl around under engine compartment and look over electrical fittings, vacuum lines, etc.. I found a vacuum line going to what looks to vapor something or other stamped on it (drivers side right behind and below the battery) I hooked it back up, disconnected battery for a few minutes re connected battery and a sweet running no check engine (or the vsc trac off lights) free dash drove home last night seemed great. have yet to take it on more than a 20 minute drive but could feel it running so much smoother right away.. So I am happy about that, however I'm irritated that the rip off artist here in town that did my valve cover gaskets did not notice this when telling me I needed a new alternator (that my friend with a code reader had already told me) and also that the toyota dealership could not seen to figure anything out after 2 hours charged for "looking, diagnostic" on my bill.. I was told to prepare to buy an entire etcs system (around 1500-2000 $) !! what the f*** !! should I be irritated that I didnt see this minor (yet major) vacuum line myself for three weeks? or extremely pissed that the two supposed "best" shops around couldn't see it and wanted to charge me for a bunch of crap I don't need (yet, lol).. Anyhow on a positive note I'm excited that that money can go towards tires or lift instead! I was thinking of doing the lift first as the michelins that are on it are brand new less than 5k on them 265/70/16 s.. or would it better to do the tires first? I have a ton of rain, mud, rock around here (North of Seattle San Jaun Islands area) any advice on what tires are best? was leaning towards the 255/85/16 toyo or bfg as they are a bit cheaper and seem to be a popular choice among readers? thanks again..

 

[2001LC]

That's great. I'd get refund form shops.

 

[AFL Fidalgo]

So back to major bump/hesitation especially after a hwy drive... really thinking this is a vacuum line issue as while having a buddy hold brake down while in drive (I was under hood, in park) was able to wiggle the high pressure canister/brake fluid tank and problem seemed to go away???!! what the heck could it be? still cant find anything else wrong but think it really odd the braking system is a cause of all this poor running random misfire/poor idle??? If I cant figure it out today (my day off) it is scheduled to go in to toyota dealer (stealer) on tues... Any ideas from anyone?? am i missing something obvious?