E-locker Vs. High pinion E-Locker...

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2ndGenToyotaFan

2ndGenToyotaFan

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So.... I have an E-locker to put in the front axle on Green Bastard, but in the long run I'd rather go with a high pinion locker out of an 80.

I'm wondering if the axle housing modifications are the same for both. If I go ahead and install the low pinion locker will I be re-doing the axle mods to fit a high pinion later?

Any insight would be great! :cheers:
 
I would definitely post up on the 80-series tech board for better info. That said, I'm not sure the 80-series and minitruck thirds are interchangeable.
 
they are interchangeable you just want to run the HP only in the front. not sure about differences in mods though, I would think they should be similar.
 
NO THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE. GUARANTEED.

I have both. They are not the same bolt pattern, but they are a mirror image of each other.

Here: http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/Taz2/FZJ80_HiPinionGasket.pdf

If you have access to a printer that can go up to 11x17 (Tabloid size), print this out with "no page scaling". You will see the differences, the notch is slightly different, and the four new holes that you have to drill & tap are in a different location.
 
Last edited:
Combat Chuck said:
you may be able to "make" an axle for it, centering the 80-series third housing into minitruck axles, similar to this guy's project:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/hardcore-corner/224524-diesel-fj40-1974fj-6.html
Click to expand...

That's WAAAAAAY too much work. Not necessary. You can relatively easily mod the mini-truck front housing to mate to the FZJ-80 FRONT hi-pinion e-locker, it's not that big of a deal. But fitting the REAR FZJ-80 locker... well that's another story. Not worth it either, actually. Bad design, hard to setup, I hate those lockers. You'd be better off going ARB.

Ya Jarod the mirror is top-to-bottom.
 
Jerod, I really struggled with this question and finally went with the TRD elocker. The main problem with the Hi-pinion was the additional cost of regearing as it is (was) only available in 4.10. The TRD on the other hand was available at the same cost in 4.56.

Obviously the Hi-Pinion is stronger going forward but it's not stronger going backwards. I sort of rationalized it that having a TRD front and rear was giving me one differential running on its strong side regardless of which direction I was driving.

At the end of the day the only advantage that I could see with the Hi-Pinion was the PTO shaft angle.
 
I run a hipinion fj80 locker in front of my truck. I have two other trucks here running lopinion elockers too.

I have installed several. I used to stand behind them and suggest them to to others, but after numerous motor failures and NO available parts, it frightens me that on any given day I will have a 600-1000 HiP elocker that isnt worth fixing.

I have talked to Bobby and Sky and there is no cost effective option to produce upgrade parts.

I have since been supporting the ARB when folks want a selectable diff. They are stronger and easier to fix and install then the elocker.

Its just hard to find a frustrated arb owner that will sell it for $300 cuz they are afraid of wiring relays like elocker owners.


The only way to fix a busted elocker for cheap is too lock in the fork for good and install a V6 quicklock. Then at least you can go wheeling without needing a new housing too when the elocker pukes someday.
 
WarDamnEagle said:
At the end of the day the only advantage that I could see with the Hi-Pinion was the PTO shaft angle.
Click to expand...

The drive side strength is a huge difference.

I have killed several front diffs on my current wheeler. I havent been in the front end since going to a HiPinion.

The hipinion is WAY stronger. Some folks just dont need the extra strength.


A hipinion with an ARB is the strongest minitruck frint diff you can build and service.
 
KLF said:
NO THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE. GUARANTEED.

I have both. They are not the same bolt pattern, but they are a mirror image of each other.

Here: http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/Taz2/FZJ80_HiPinionGasket.pdf

If you have access to a printer that can go up to 11x17 (Tabloid size), print this out with "no page scaling". You will see the differences, the notch is slightly different, and the four new holes that you have to drill & tap are in a different location.
Click to expand...


This is correct. Different location on holes.

Go to toyota and get a diff gasket. makes it an easy trace.
 
KLF said:
NO THEY ARE NOT INTERCHANGABLE. GUARANTEED.

I have both. They are not the same bolt pattern, but they are a mirror image of each other.

Here: http://www.yankeetoys.org/KLF/Taz2/FZJ80_HiPinionGasket.pdf

If you have access to a printer that can go up to 11x17 (Tabloid size), print this out with "no page scaling". You will see the differences, the notch is slightly different, and the four new holes that you have to drill & tap are in a different location.
Click to expand...

KLF said:
That's WAAAAAAY too much work. Not necessary. You can relatively easily mod the mini-truck front housing to mate to the FZJ-80 FRONT hi-pinion e-locker, it's not that big of a deal. But fitting the REAR FZJ-80 locker... well that's another story. Not worth it either, actually. Bad design, hard to setup, I hate those lockers. You'd be better off going ARB.

Ya Jarod the mirror is top-to-bottom.
Click to expand...



Are we talking 8" elocker vs 8" elocker or 8" elocker vs 9.25" elocker?

I always thought that the 8" high pinion, and the 8" low pinion were the same pattern (could be totally wrong, as I have only run low pinion diffs)
 
GRM said:
I always thought that the 8" high pinion, and the 8" low pinion were the same pattern (could be totally wrong, as I have only run low pinion diffs)
Click to expand...

No, they are not the same pattern. Mirror image of each other.

The 9.25" FZJ80 rear e-locker is a totally different animal. Very different, it's almost like it was made by a different company.
 
Chop Shop said:
Go to toyota and get a diff gasket. makes it an easy trace.
Click to expand...

BTW, I do not recommend using the gasket to place the holes for drilling. It's not precise enough. I always cut the notch, then drop the diff into the housing with a few of the other studs installed for alignment, then use a long slender punch to locate the holes.

And I don't bother with the long studs to hold the actuator on. I just get long bolts.
 
KLF said:
BTW, I do not recommend using the gasket to place the holes for drilling. It's not precise enough. I always cut the notch, then drop the diff into the housing with a few of the other studs installed for alignment, then use a long slender punch to locate the holes.

And I don't bother with the long studs to hold the actuator on. I just get long bolts.
Click to expand...

I mostly use the gasket as a guide to see how much to build up with the welder for a good sealing surface.

I always drill out the diff holes to 3/8 and use grade 8 hardware. Anyone in my shop wanting an elocker usually can bennefit from not pulling out diff studs also.

I agree its much easier to get a accurate location for drilling with a transfer punch in the diff holes.
 
Long overdue update. I ran the E-Locker up front and a welded rear with 4.10's for a few years, then a couple years ago put a second E-Locker in the rear and re-geared to 5.29's. All low pinion diffs. I've never had a single problem with either differential. I have popped a couple stock birfs in that time though...
 
So, Jerod, is this a drive-by, or are you going to stick around awhile? :flipoff2:
 
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