Dyno Testing an 80

[Rookie44]

I read a few, very old, threads on guys who have Dyno'd their 80's. But in both threads the guys were from large cities that had multiple Dyno options. Me? I got one...... But at least I got one. My problem is, that my Dyno guy doesn't have a AWD option.

What he said that he has done before, like for a Syclone, he would simply disconnect the front driveline and let the transfer spin.

Anyone have any concerns that I should consider here? I need to Dyno my LC to see what the motor is doing so that I can dial in the shift programmer and I would like to know what this motor is putting out for HP's so that I know what my options are.

Thanks in advance!

~Rookie

 

[scottryana]

Yep drop the front shaft, lock the transfer case and let it rip! No problems.

 

[nukegoat]

Make sure his dyno is calibrated for the 4 WHP you'll produce

 

[Rookie44]

Yep drop the front shaft, lock the transfer case and let it rip! No problems.

Thanks for the reply! So, "lock" the Tcase....... Like in Low Range? That will lock the CDL, but how can you Dyno Test in Low Range? I've looked into the Tcase a bit and I understand the limited slip in Hi Range and Lo Range will Lock that out, but it doesn't seem like that would be the best for a Dyno Test. Or..... does Lo Range only lock the CDL and that's it? No lower gears....

Please Advise.

~Rookie

 

[Rookie44]

Make sure his dyno is calibrated for the 4 WHP you'll produce

This guy is mostly a racecar shop. What do I need to tell him in order to get this set up correctly? I have very limited exposure to Dyno's and their set ups.

~Rookie

 

[cbpeck]

This guy is mostly a racecar shop. What do I need to tell him in order to get this set up correctly? I have very limited exposure to Dyno's and their set ups.

~Rookie

It's a joke. He's saying the guy's machine may need to be calibrated to register the mere 4 hp the 1fz sends to the wheels.

 

[gummycarbs]

To lock the transfer case, either order the $40ish "CDL lock switch" (the vehicle is already wired for it, just pull the dash surround and plug it in) or, I think, shift into 4L, let the transfer case lock, then pull the transfer case fuse or relay and shift it back into high range. Search the forum for specifics.

 

[Rookie44]

It's a joke. He's saying the guy's machine may need to be calibrated to register the mere 4 hp the 1fz sends to the wheels.

Got it! Ha...ha..... But I'm running a built 6BT!

 

[Rookie44]

To lock the transfer case, either order the $40ish "CDL lock switch" (the vehicle is already wired for it, just pull the dash surround and plug it in) or, I think, shift into 4L, let the transfer case lock, then pull the transfer case fuse or relay and shift it back into high range. Search the forum for specifics.

Thanks! Is this a OEM switch? Was it an option for the models with lockers? Sounds like the way to go. I'll start searching this forum for more information on this.

 

[gummycarbs]

Thanks! Is this a OEM switch? Was it an option for the models with lockers? Sounds like the way to go. I'll start searching this forum for more information on this.

Toyota switch. I think only the early US models with semi-floating axles and no ABS got the switch. But I think those models didn't have the center viscous coupling (sort of a limited-slip for the transfer case), so they needed the center diff lock button.

 

[Rookie44]

Found the switch! It looks like the 97' is quit a bit different than the 94-95's. Is the location the same for the wiring? Just above the radio? I might go diving to find the plug before I pull the trigger on the switch. If the early US models were the only ones with the switch, how can I be sure that the newer (97') will have this in the harness?

New Genuine Toyota Land Cruiser LX450 Center Differential Lock Switch 1995-1997 | eBay

 

[gummycarbs]

Search the forum. There are all kinds of posts about it.

 

[cjmoon]

I'll be curious to see the results. What trans are you running? I've got a buddy that has a 6bt lx450 and a Dyno in his shop and has never bothered to put his on. Just a mild build. 3800rpm hx35 and tuned to the max. For the VE that is, so mild is as far as it goes for the 6bt

 

[ajax1]

You can get he cdl switch from slee for 94 style or pull one from 91 to 92 cruiser

 

[Rookie44]

I'll be curious to see the results. What trans are you running? I've got a buddy that has a 6bt lx450 and a Dyno in his shop and has never bothered to put his on. Just a mild build. 3800rpm hx35 and tuned to the max. For the VE that is, so mild is as far as it goes for the 6bt

I've got some what of the same, HX35 7blade, 330HP injectors, 3K spring in the VE. I have no idea where it is as far as "turned up" goes either. I'm just not sure where it is on HP, Powerband etc. So, that's why I'm heading to the Dyno. I'm running the stock Trans 442.

 

[scottryana]

I suspect this will be very interesting. It is going to be very interesting to see how the dyno goes. On my truck with the A343F. I have to put the shifter in 2nd and push the 2nd gear start button to keep the transmission from shifting during the dyno pull.

Let us know how it goes.

A stock late model 1FZ usually dyno’s around 135awhp and 185-190ft/lbs on a dynojet.

 

[Rookie44]

So I went out to the Duiser today and looked for the blank spot for the CDL switch. I don't see a spot for it.

I know that the Toyota security systems were installed by subcontractors at Port when the LC's came right off the boat from Japan. I yanked this system when I swapped out the 4.5L for the 5.9. So, I could put it there. I'll break into the dash and see what I find.

This is the only available plug that I can see. It has a jumper plugged into it. I'll now try and get an end view of the switch to see if they match.

If anyone thinks I'm going down the wrong path, please let me know! This appears pretty straight forward though.

 

[IanB]

I suspect this will be very interesting. It is going to be very interesting to see how the dyno goes. On my truck with the A343F. I have to put the shifter in 2nd and push the 2nd gear start button to keep the transmission from shifting during the dyno pull.

Let us know how it goes.

A stock late model 1FZ usually dyno’s around 135awhp and 185-190ft/lbs on a dynojet.

I've been wondering about this as well. I'd like to throw mine on the dyno to tune the main fuel screw once I've got the Gturbo installed, and I've been trying to figure out the best way to do this.

I've been told 3rd is the best gear to use for tuning, but how can I get it to start low enough in the rpm's without downshifting? My truck has the A442F, so no 2nd gear start option, but I can put the shifter in "2" and have it start and hold 2nd gear, but that doesn't help for a 3rd gear pull. I'd like the dyno operator to set it up to replicate a 6% grade and a 6,000lb vehicle for tuning pulls, should the dyno operator know how to set this up, can all styles of wheel dyno accomplish this?

 

[IanB]

So I went out to the Duiser today and looked for the blank spot for the CDL switch. I don't see a spot for it.
View attachment 1568176

I know that the Toyota security systems were installed by subcontractors at Port when the LC's came right off the boat from Japan. I yanked this system when I swapped out the 4.5L for the 5.9. So, I could put it there. I'll break into the dash and see what I find.
View attachment 1568177

This is the only available plug that I can see. It has a jumper plugged into it. I'll now try and get an end view of the switch to see if they match.
View attachment 1568178

If anyone thinks I'm going down the wrong path, please let me know! This appears pretty straight forward though.

If your security system is gone, then I'd try and fit it in that spot. You've got some blanks down at the bottom of the dash as well, the wiring should reach if you cut back some of the tape and reroute it.

 

[bigredmachine]

that is the correct plug with the yellow jumper. loose the glass break sensor and plug in the cdl switch there. maybe move the gbs into a different position so it looks like something is there, might prevent some idiot trying to break into the truck

its my understanding that on the dyno you want as close to 1:1 trans ratio for accuracy so for a 4 speed that should be third gear