Two year warranty when product is registered with GZ as Eric states
Dual Battery Upgrade - The Modular Way (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter TeCKis300
- Start date
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Related, my Yeti 400 was a refurb that I ordered directly from GZ. I didn’t see any online so I just cold called customer service and asked if they had any. My refurb unit looked basically new and had a new battery in it. Also carried the same warranty.
Sac Cerevisiae
Reid
I’ll wade into this debate...
If I wanted a portable battery system that could be charged via a cigarette lighter, the 110v plug in the rear of the truck, or via a solar panel, what should I get or build?
I plan on powering a portable fridge, charging phones, and for camp lighting.
I’m open to making something myself if that opens up my options and is less expensive.
If I wanted a portable battery system that could be charged via a cigarette lighter, the 110v plug in the rear of the truck, or via a solar panel, what should I get or build?
I plan on powering a portable fridge, charging phones, and for camp lighting.
I’m open to making something myself if that opens up my options and is less expensive.
Myself the only thing I want to see are the outlets and the display showing what is going on.
I don't want extra stuff in my Cargo area.
Modular Parts I know of is:
Battery
Main charging system for the battery - while driving
Distribution fuse box.
Display showing input and output
Solar Panel
Solar Charger
Invertor for 1500w+ power unless the 400 is ok.
What I have done so far is:
Aux Battery I put in front engine bay using the Aux Tray from SLEE Offroad, which fits 31, 34 and some other size batteries.
Charger - When I turn on the engine and it's running both batteries charge, main and aux with a delayed solenoid. Connects them after detecting 14 volts. Can use it to jump if the main died or got too low.
Distribution box - I ran a good size cable to the rear behind the 2nd row attached to the back of the ARB storage boxes behind the 2nd row of seats. Fold down the seat then you can access it.
Amazon product ASIN B07FT8L44J
USB and various other outletS off the distibution box.
I put them on the front of the ARB boxes and top beside the fridge, and some various other places. Hook to aux so stuff can charge 24/7.
Amazon product ASIN B072LN19K8
Displays (2) showing in and out.
Next is:
Solar panel on the roof .. or portable, still desiring but likely on the roof attached to either the bars you can add. or a rack.
Likely the bars you can add. from 8020.net as I do not like roof rack wind noise.
forum.ih8mud.com
Solar Charger - likely this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01483CCZ...&colid=6FSAMISKZBG3&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Invertor - haven't decided, but likely a 1500 watt.
I would like to see where people have put the solar charger and invertors. I was going to put them inside the fit area beside the arb boxes. Maybe with a computer fan?
I don't want extra stuff in my Cargo area.
Modular Parts I know of is:
Battery
Main charging system for the battery - while driving
Distribution fuse box.
Display showing input and output
Solar Panel
Solar Charger
Invertor for 1500w+ power unless the 400 is ok.
What I have done so far is:
Aux Battery I put in front engine bay using the Aux Tray from SLEE Offroad, which fits 31, 34 and some other size batteries.
Charger - When I turn on the engine and it's running both batteries charge, main and aux with a delayed solenoid. Connects them after detecting 14 volts. Can use it to jump if the main died or got too low.
Distribution box - I ran a good size cable to the rear behind the 2nd row attached to the back of the ARB storage boxes behind the 2nd row of seats. Fold down the seat then you can access it.
Amazon product ASIN B07FT8L44J
USB and various other outletS off the distibution box.
I put them on the front of the ARB boxes and top beside the fridge, and some various other places. Hook to aux so stuff can charge 24/7.
Amazon product ASIN B072LN19K8
Displays (2) showing in and out.
Amazon.com: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt : Automotive
Buy bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt: Voltmeter - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com
Next is:
Solar panel on the roof .. or portable, still desiring but likely on the roof attached to either the bars you can add. or a rack.
Likely the bars you can add. from 8020.net as I do not like roof rack wind noise.
Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)
Hey gang, In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning. Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day. One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do...
forum.ih8mud.com
Solar Charger - likely this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01483CCZ...&colid=6FSAMISKZBG3&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Invertor - haven't decided, but likely a 1500 watt.
I would like to see where people have put the solar charger and invertors. I was going to put them inside the fit area beside the arb boxes. Maybe with a computer fan?
The Goal zero yeti 1000 takes up 0.83 cu ft (10.1 x 15.3 x 9.3 in)
A 200 without 3rd row has approx 50.5 cu ft.
So the yeti takes up 1.6% of your storage area.
A 200 without 3rd row has approx 50.5 cu ft.
So the yeti takes up 1.6% of your storage area.
Myself the only thing I want to see are the outlets and the display showing what is going on.
I don't want extra stuff in my Cargo area.
Modular Parts I know of is:
Battery
Main charging system for the battery - while driving
Distribution fuse box.
Display showing input and output
Solar Panel
Solar Charger
Invertor for 1500w+ power unless the 400 is ok.
What I have done so far is:
Aux Battery I put in front engine bay using the Aux Tray from SLEE Offroad, which fits 31, 34 and some other size batteries.
Charger - When I turn on the engine and it's running both batteries charge, main and aux with a delayed solenoid. Connects them after detecting 14 volts. Can use it to jump if the main died or got too low.
Distribution box - I ran a good size cable to the rear behind the 2nd row attached to the back of the ARB storage boxes behind the 2nd row of seats. Fold down the seat then you can access it.
Amazon product ASIN B07FT8L44J
USB and various other outletS off the distibution box.
I put them on the front of the ARB boxes and top beside the fridge, and some various other places. Hook to aux so stuff can charge 24/7.
Amazon product ASIN B072LN19K8
Displays (2) showing in and out.
Amazon.com: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt : Automotive
Buy bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt: Voltmeter - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchaseswww.amazon.com
Next is:
Solar panel on the roof .. or portable, still desiring but likely on the roof attached to either the bars you can add. or a rack.
Likely the bars you can add. from 8020.net as I do not like roof rack wind noise.
Get more from your factory roof rack with t-slotted aluminum (8020)
Hey gang, In the summer I keep an XL Thule box on top, plus maxtrax, shovel, and a pop-up shelter that I hope to replace with a fixed awning. Someday I want to get a Gobi or FrontRunner rack for my 570. But today ain’t that day. One common improvement is extra crossbars. But rather than do...
Solar Charger - likely this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01483CCZ...&colid=6FSAMISKZBG3&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1
Invertor - haven't decided, but likely a 1500 watt.
I would like to see where people have put the solar charger and invertors. I was going to put them inside the fit area beside the arb boxes. Maybe with a computer fan?
View attachment 1987240
View attachment 1987241
That is a nice project!
When your done it would be great to see a list of included parts and their costs, for a comparison.
With the plugs next to drawer faces is there room enough to plug things in with the tailgate closed? So what’s charging goes on top of the drawer?
The outlets behind the 2nd row seats I use to charge the 4g hotspot (sitting in the cup holder), head lamp sets, flash lights, blue tooth head sets, phones or what ever. Plus the iphones cords can reach the 2nd row seating.
There are cup holders there to stick stuff in that is charging.
My arb 63 is on that roller top beside those plugs.
Sitting on the tail gate the rear outlets can be used to charge a phone, or a flash, or run a 12 volt blender, or run a 12 volt hand held spot light.
There is about 4 inches clearance from the gate to the drawer system. I don't use those ones for charging stuff unless I'm sitting on the tail gate. You could do it though as there is clearance.
When I'm camping that back area is open with the tailgate down a lot of the time for cooler/fridge access, or to get a stuff in the drawers. Then it keeps the blue tooth music speaker charged.
The panel also powers the off road and camp lights, and 63 ARB fridge.
There are cup holders there to stick stuff in that is charging.
My arb 63 is on that roller top beside those plugs.
Sitting on the tail gate the rear outlets can be used to charge a phone, or a flash, or run a 12 volt blender, or run a 12 volt hand held spot light.
There is about 4 inches clearance from the gate to the drawer system. I don't use those ones for charging stuff unless I'm sitting on the tail gate. You could do it though as there is clearance.
When I'm camping that back area is open with the tailgate down a lot of the time for cooler/fridge access, or to get a stuff in the drawers. Then it keeps the blue tooth music speaker charged.
The panel also powers the off road and camp lights, and 63 ARB fridge.
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Shouldn’t this thread be moved, not really 200 specific....I know I’m tired of seeing it.
RET2
SILVER Star
But then the air pressure, tire and oil threads would get lonely?Shouldn’t this thread be moved, not really 200 specific....I know I’m tired of seeing it.
- Thread starter
- #73
Just get a portable battery of your choice. Plug it into the 110V output. Enjoy. It's really all that's necessary. All the other add on doodads are just options if you need more.
Just to give you some perspective. If you get a GZ 1000 (~98Ah) and a Dometic 75 cfx that draws about 1.4 amps.
Over a day, it draws 24hr * 1.4 amps = 33.6 Ah. Without charging at all, you can get 3 days runtime (98Ah/33.6Ah=2.9 days).
Assuming you just plugged in the built in 120V charger adapter of the GZ, that's 5amps. Driving 7hrs/day gives a charge capacity of 35Ah/day. You can run the fridge indefinitely.
Let's say you drive less or have more toys to power. Add a GZ 12V Yeti car charger for ($39) for another 10 amps. You can stack the car charger and the 120V charger for a total of 15amps charge rate.
Drive the same 7hrs/day and you can fill the GZ 1000 from completely depleted (7hrs*15amp=105Ah).
So many ways to do this. Mix, match, and stack. Add 100W solar @5amp, or ~35Ah/day (~$100 100W panel + ~$30 MC4 to 8mm cable). Stack 3 12V Yeti car chargers for 30amps (~$120). Get the bruiser 50amp car charger (~$400).
By far the biggest advantage of the lithium portable battery however is its discharge rate (i.e. instantaneous power capability) which is unmatched by lead acid, AGM, etc. It can sustain its built in 1500W inverter without sagging, which means over 150amp continuous discharge capacity. And it will go to 3000W surge. So any high power device from home is game including that Vitamix blender, residential microwave, coffee pot, blow dryer, etc.
For my setup, I'll do nothing more than add the Yeti 12V car charger, and install an independent hardwired cig lighter to the rear of the vehicle.
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@TeCKis300
I appreciated all the info you gave me on my other thread regarding charging in the back. But Ive totally backed out of that idea after reading about the dangers of charging a lead batter (AGM or not) on a closed space. Just ordered a the 27F agm North Star battery and will run fridge off that from the front....ie house battery.
- Thread starter
- #76
I agree with you @WoodyCreature. I wasn't suggesting to install it in the interior. Just not the engine bay because it will not enjoy a long healthy life there.
Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) Battery Information - Battery University
Learn what differentiates Absorbent Glass Mat (AGM) batteries from other lead acid battery types
batteryuniversity.com
gaijin
GOLD Star
Where would that be? Not the interior, and not the engine bay, so... where?
Just curious.
- Thread starter
- #78
Not sure. Just saying that heat management can be an issue.
Many class-B RV's install their AGM house batteries under the chassis. Or within their interior but in a vented enclosure. The 200-series is tight for space. There are two large voids right behind the rear tire wells that's a possibility. On the LX, one side is occupied by the AHC pump/reservoir.
Another strategy used by various OEMs, especially German brands that install AGM stock, have a bay off the engine compartment that is a divided compartment. Perhaps one could install the battery in the bay and create a heat shield around the battery?
- Thread starter
- #79
In other news, tried the Goal Zero 1000 120V charger in my LX today. No bueno.
Looks like the charger is not very efficient and draws 180W AC for 60W of charging? The stock inverter is only rated to 100W. I'll be following in the paths of others and installing a constant on 12V socket in the rear. Surprised there's no stock 12V outlet in the rear.
Looks like the charger is not very efficient and draws 180W AC for 60W of charging? The stock inverter is only rated to 100W. I'll be following in the paths of others and installing a constant on 12V socket in the rear. Surprised there's no stock 12V outlet in the rear.
Markuson
SILVER Star
You’ll get it sorted out.
I have five different 12V outlets in back, many USBs, plus several low-draw items that charge via the stock inverter when the truck is running.
One of these days I’m going to count up the items running or charging back there. It’s crazy...but it works.
For long-charge items, some might want to consider an external AC-in (male end you can plug an extension cord into on the outside of the truck) so you can simply “plug in” when in the garage or driveway for long periods. I did this several months ago and it’s super convenient. Let’s me tend batteries effortlessly...and take over heavy draw stuff (fridge) in cases where it might sit for many days with fridge running, etc. If I forget to pull the cord as I dash off in a hurry...(and I have), it pulls itself out and the spring-loaded outlet lid flips shut.
It’s nice to never have to run separate power in...or remove AC items if not convenient. The male connects to an internal power strip that I have my battery-tender & fridge plugged into when I driven for long periods—which means I never have to unload drinks, frozen stuff in my fridge...even if sitting for weeks.
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