Dual Battery Upgrade - The Modular Way (1 Viewer)

[Fisher23]

I've started looking for a lithium solution, as recharging an AMG battery is a good 4 to 6 hours driving.

Plus this comes with lots of extras.

 

[Union]

If I wanted to jump start a 200 with a goal zero battery, what would I need to do in order to make it work? It doesn't seem like there are any proper electrical accessories to make it work.

 

[TeCKis300]

If I wanted to jump start a 200 with a goal zero battery, what would I need to do in order to make it work? It doesn't seem like there are any proper electrical accessories to make it work.

In a pinch, it could be made to work with some hacking. It's not really setup for it. Better off with any of the lithium jump starters that can be found for as little as $50. One could always charge a jump starter with the Yeti and indirectly jump that way.

 

[Union]

In a pinch, it could be made to work with some hacking. It's not really setup for it. Better off with any of the lithium jump starters that can be found for as little as $50. One could always charge a jump starter with the Yeti and indirectly jump that way.

Sweet thanks for that. It'd be nice to have the ability to do that out of the box.

 

[tabraha]

I picked up the Yeti 400 as soon as they came out with the Lithium vs lead acid original versions. I've had it for a couple years now and it has performed well overall. The 1000 was like $1300 then so I opted to go with the little fella who was also way overpriced at the time. With a little tweaking the ARB fridge plug works fine (thanks to @Taco2Cruiser for that tip) and even the 400 has decent enough AH for maintaining a fridge etc overnight. I would still recommend to skip the 400 for the 1000 b/c if I have one gripe on the 400 it is that the inverter is too small. 300W continuous does not charge some of my more intensive needs and the 1000 has a 12.5A/1200w continuous inverter which is a huge step up. They really grossly undersized the 400 inverter IMO as it has the amp hour capacity (40AH) to charge items that need higher throughput than 300W and a measly 2.5A. To me 600W/5A would have been prime with that package.

While they are expensive for what they are the integration of different features is top notch and the display gives information so useful it is worth the price of admission in my opinion. In just abot every vehicle I own I can leave the Yeti plugged into the rear inverter charging while the ARB is plugged into the Yeti's 12v LOL. Figured the Yeti is charging while cruising down the road, the ARB is running on 12V and when I turn the truck off the ARB just keeps on trucking off the 12V so I don't have to switch plugs etc. Almost felt like cheating the first time I set that up.

 

[TeCKis300]

Got the unit. This thing is better built than I expected. Has solid power capacity at 98Ah usable. Most impressive is the inverter output...this thing is a beast.

I have a nice 2000W pure sine-wave inverter in my Airstream powered by 225Ah worth of big golf cart batts, all tied together with heavy 0 gauge wire. The inverter alone was already more than half the price of this Goal Zero 1000. My Airsteram setup (which is about what a very large dual batt cruiser install is) when powering very heavy draw loads, doesn't hold a candle to what the Goal Zero batt/inverter can do. It can handle a blow dryer or residential microwave at full bore without output sag or breaking a sweat. For a bit over $800? Just WOW.

Waiting for the 12V car charger to come in as they were backordered. Can't wait to test that part in car and trailer.

 

[Itsky]

Very cool thread!

I’m loving my Yeti 100 Lithium!

I added a 12 gauge wire and plug with keyed ignition power in the rear. I’m charging it with only the 10a lithium charging cable from GZ, which puts in 110-120 watts while the LC is running.

I just did an 11 day trip to mammoth>Buttermilk’s>Alabama Hills > Death Valley> Palm Springs> Joshua tree > Laguna beach. The GZ was perfect power my ARB fridge and camera batteries. I don’t have solar yet, and I was fine.

 

[Markuson]

Was at the REI sale yesterday...and by customer service sat two big GZ units...waiting for pickup by someone taking full advantage of the 20% off member coupon.

They also had a 1400watt Lithium unit for sale, but didn’t see the price. Thing was so dang heavy though...even with lithium.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I’m working on a 3rd gen Tacoma that currently has a GZ 1400 Lithium, but I’m converting it to a lead crystal with a Redarc Manager 30.

I also sold my GZ 400 Lithium.

I’m a GZ fan, like a lot, but these lithium’s are not handling the heat from a parked car well, and the batteries are rated for 500 cycles from only 100-80% discharge. Run them all the way down, and they start loosing capacity quickly.

Also mounting them is not very clean. Where do you mount a large box that requires full access to the front but you also need to protect the connections from other gear? Charging it also is slow unless using GZs new connection that ties right into the alternator, which is over $400. Then you have to put a couple hundred more dollars into a MPPT controller. Then you also have to buy the volatage regulator to use a fridge freezer past 65% capacity as the voltage drop of NMC lithium’s goes too low for the power management of electric fridges. These things a sure not a lithium phosphate battery that can actually handle constant charging and discharging.

When you actually add it all up, it’s not a very cost effective unit for what you get. It looks cool, it has a lot of versatility for light users, but it falls pretty short when it comes to heavy sustained use.

Probably why I and a current customer both got rid of ours.

Now let me say, a fridge freezer is not much of a challenge for any battery really. I run my fridge off my starting battery and have no problem going three days without tiring the motor on. Been doing it for over 10 years. But when it comes to running a more dedicated adventure rig, the things just don’t last. Fine for three trips a year, not good for 3 trips a month.

Trust me, mine was awesome for the first year if ownership, then... you start to see the flaws.

That’s what I’m trying to get at. But as they say, you mileage may vary.

 

[Itsky]

I’m working on a 3rd gen Tacoma that currently has a GZ 1400 Lithium, but I’m converting it to a lead crystal with a Redarc Manager 30.

I also sold my GZ 400 Lithium.

I’m a GZ fan, like a lot, but these lithium’s are not handling the heat from a parked car well, and the batteries are rated for 500 cycles from only 100-80% discharge. Run them all the way down, and they start loosing capacity quickly.

Also mounting them is not very clean. Where do you mount a large box that requires full access to the front but you also need to protect the connections from other gear? Charging it also is slow unless using GZs new connection that ties right into the alternator, which is over $400. Then you have to put a couple hundred more dollars into a MPPT controller. Then you also have to buy the volatage regulator to use a fridge freezer past 65% capacity as the voltage drop of NMC lithium’s goes too low for the power management of electric fridges. These things a sure not a lithium phosphate battery that can actually handle constant charging and discharging.

When you actually add it all up, it’s not a very cost effective unit for what you get. It looks cool, it has a lot of versatility for light users, but it falls pretty short when it comes to heavy sustained use.

Probably why I and a current customer both got rid of ours.

Now let me say, a fridge freezer is not much of a challenge for any battery really. I run my fridge off my starting battery and have no problem going three days without tiring the motor on. Been doing it for over 10 years. But when it comes to running a more dedicated adventure rig, the things just don’t last. Fine for three trips a year, not good for 3 trips a month.

Trust me, mine was awesome for the first year if ownership, then... you start to see the flaws.

That’s what I’m trying to get at. But as they say, you mileage may vary.

Good input. Very interesting.

Is charging slower than other batteries?

Is the number of discharges lower than other batteries?

The 10a lithium cable was $40, the fridge cable is similar I think (didn’t need it last trip)

Including those two cables, I’m into it $900. What would be another option in that price ballpark?

As for mounting, I put it on my drawers, near the back seat backs, the face of the battery was in the dead space required for the fridge back. I just reached to use.

 

[Union]

They still sell the GZ 400 lead acid battery. I wonder if that would perform better in the long run. The heat aspect is what got me, especially entering summer out here in the desert. The rig gets stupid hot inside.

 

[Itsky]

They still sell the GZ 400 lead acid battery. I wonder if that would perform better in the long run. The heat aspect is what got me, especially entering summer out here in the desert. The rig gets stupid hot inside.

So which is worse:
- the heat a GZ lithium in the cab would face
- the heat in the engine bay another battery would face

 

[Markuson]

Ya, I have no intention of buying a GZ, since my dual battery setup is working very well. But just mentioning the REI thing since I’m sure many here got their 20% off coupons.

That 1400 Lithium wasn’t just heavy...it was SUPER heavy! -Like heavy enough to be the second heaviest item in my truck besides my fridge!

 

[Union]

So which is worse:
- the heat a GZ lithium in the cab would face
- the heat in the engine bay another battery would face

I'm going to bet on the heat in the cab. Which is complete speculation on my part. Where are the engineers?

 

[Itsky]

Ya, I have no intention of buying a GZ, since my dual battery setup is working very well. But just mentioning the REI thing since I’m sure many here got their 30% off coupons.

That 1400 Lithium wasn’t just heavy...it was SUPER heavy! -Like heavy enough to be the second heaviest item in my truck besides my fridge!

GZ lithium 1400 is 43.7 lbs

GZ lithium 1000 is 40 lbs

Edit to add:
In this department the GZ is likely unbeatable. For example, my wife just pulled it out to use at a kids party and carried it 150 yards to and from.

 

[Markuson]

GZ lithium 1400 is 43.7 lbs

GZ lithium 1000 is 40 lbs

Definitely wanna strap that down...

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Good input. Very interesting.

Is charging slower than other batteries?

Is the number of discharges lower than other batteries?

The 10a lithium cable was $40, the fridge cable is similar I think (didn’t need it last trip)

Including those two cables, I’m into it $900. What would be another option in that price ballpark?

As for mounting, I put it on my drawers, near the back seat backs, the face of the battery was in the dead space required for the fridge back. I just reached to use.

Charge times on that if you use the 5 amp wall charger with a constant 60 watt input is 18 hours. Do some work and get 10 amps, you can get that down to 9 hours, but... you will start to hurt that battery and it’s life expectancy will finishing even faster.

I can charge a 100 ah anything else (lithium phosphate, AGM, Lead crystal) in about 3 hours with a Redarc.

Lead crystal and AGM don’t care to be in the engine bay, lithium does. But I mount lithium under the vehicle or in the cab. Cab temperature can see almost 140°. Engine bay can see 200°. Lithium used in Goal Zero doesn’t like anything past 104°. Lithium phosphate batteries can handle up to 178°.

Back to where to mount it. If the thing is behind a fridge, making it not very accessible. But a fridge is already done to run on the starter battery, they why spend $800?

I guess that’s my issue with these GZ lithium’s. What they do, they don’t do that well and they are not needed, and what you think they should be able to do, they can’t.

They don’t charge fast at all. If you kill one, you need to run the motor for 9 hours strait with no output (like going to a fridge) and they take up space in the cargo area, but don’t let you easily get to the ports. Why spend $800 to reach over things. I just think for that kind of money, something should interrelate much cleaner.

You can get a $350 Redarc charge controller, a $200 AGM, a Slee batter mount for whatever those things go for, and be less, and now you can run your own port around the truck for easy access.

Like I said, I’m actually a goal zero fan boy. I have all their light, I keep buying their stuff. But man, the monocrystalline solar panels and the lithium yetis and just average not worth the money in my small opinion.

I think they are great for power outages, CPAP machines for guys that struggle with that and need power that can move to a ground tent (seriously, that is cool to help those people still enjoy nature) they are good for tailgating. I mean, you yourself have a great example of using it a a pool party. That’s awesome. But as a dedicated auxiliary battery in a Land Cruiser? I’m just not experiencing it.

I can maybe, sorta see them in the whole van life thing, where they can me mounted with easy access in a van, but in an SUV, na.

So for you case, I get it, you are doing more than just using it in the Cruiser. So that awesome, I’m happy it’s working for you. I just have been seeing a problem where guys the then think it’s a good option for strictly an auxiliary battery, and they were I have concerns.

 

[Markuson]

Ya. I don’t really see the draw either.

I charge 12-14 items in my truck 24/7 (plus a fridge/freezer always running). Also run several other items while driving...and I have to big heavy interior unit to fiddle with. So ya...I just son’t See the need for one of these in a truck that is already super capable of charging/running, lighting, and starting my truck with a dual batt setup.

In the tent, I either run a USB extension for smaller devices...or just grab my Noco starter, which will also happily run lights, shower, charge devices in the tent & more...then still have tons of power for starting if needed. All that? Is after sitting dormant without top-off charging for many months. Thing is a beast, and weighs very little.

 

[Itsky]

Charge times on that if you use the 5 amp wall charger with a constant 60 watt input is 18 hours. Do some work and get 10 amps, you can get that down to 9 hours, but... you will start to hurt that battery and it’s life expectancy will finishing even faster.

I can charge a 100 ah anything else (lithium phosphate, AGM, Lead crystal) in about 3 hours with a Redarc.

Lead crystal and AGM don’t care to be in the engine bay, lithium does. But I mount lithium under the vehicle or in the cab. Cab temperature can see almost 140°. Engine bay can see 200°. Lithium used in Goal Zero doesn’t like anything past 104°. Lithium phosphate batteries can handle up to 178°.

Back to where to mount it. If the thing is behind a fridge, making it not very accessible. But a fridge is already done to run on the starter battery, they why spend $800?

I guess that’s my issue with these GZ lithium’s. What they do, they don’t do that well and they are not needed, and what you think they should be able to do, they can’t.

They don’t charge fast at all. If you kill one, you need to run the motor for 9 hours strait with no output (like going to a fridge) and they take up space in the cargo area, but don’t let you easily get to the ports. Why spend $800 to reach over things. I just think for that kind of money, something should interrelate much cleaner.

You can get a $350 Redarc charge controller, a $200 AGM, a Slee batter mount for whatever those things go for, and be less, and now you can run your own port around the truck for easy access.

Like I said, I’m actually a goal zero fan boy. I have all their light, I keep buying their stuff. But man, the monocrystalline solar panels and the lithium yetis and just average not worth the money in my small opinion.

I think they are great for power outages, CPAP machines for guys that struggle with that and need power that can move to a ground tent (seriously, that is cool to help those people still enjoy nature) they are good for tailgating. I mean, you yourself have a great example of using it a a pool party. That’s awesome. But as a dedicated auxiliary battery in a Land Cruiser? I’m just not experiencing it.

I can maybe, sorta see them in the whole van life thing, where they can me mounted with easy access in a van, but in an SUV, na.

So for you case, I get it, you are doing more than just using it in the Cruiser. So that awesome, I’m happy it’s working for you. I just have been seeing a problem where guys the then think it’s a good option for strictly an auxiliary battery, and they were I have concerns.

Charge times on that if you use the 5 amp wall charger with a constant 60 watt input is 18 hours. Do some work and get 10 amps, you can get that down to 9 hours, but... you will start to hurt that battery and it’s life expectancy will finishing even faster.

I can charge a 100 ah anything else (lithium phosphate, AGM, Lead crystal) in about 3 hours with a Redarc.

Lead crystal and AGM don’t care to be in the engine bay, lithium does. But I mount lithium under the vehicle or in the cab. Cab temperature can see almost 140°. Engine bay can see 200°. Lithium used in Goal Zero doesn’t like anything past 104°. Lithium phosphate batteries can handle up to 178°.

Back to where to mount it. If the thing is behind a fridge, making it not very accessible. But a fridge is already done to run on the starter battery, they why spend $800?

I guess that’s my issue with these GZ lithium’s. What they do, they don’t do that well and they are not needed, and what you think they should be able to do, they can’t.

They don’t charge fast at all. If you kill one, you need to run the motor for 9 hours strait with no output (like going to a fridge) and they take up space in the cargo area, but don’t let you easily get to the ports. Why spend $800 to reach over things. I just think for that kind of money, something should interrelate much cleaner.

You can get a $350 Redarc charge controller, a $200 AGM, a Slee batter mount for whatever those things go for, and be less, and now you can run your own port around the truck for easy access.

Like I said, I’m actually a goal zero fan boy. I have all their light, I keep buying their stuff. But man, the monocrystalline solar panels and the lithium yetis and just average not worth the money in my small opinion.

I think they are great for power outages, CPAP machines for guys that struggle with that and need power that can move to a ground tent (seriously, that is cool to help those people still enjoy nature) they are good for tailgating. I mean, you yourself have a great example of using it a a pool party. That’s awesome. But as a dedicated auxiliary battery in a Land Cruiser? I’m just not experiencing it.

I can maybe, sorta see them in the whole van life thing, where they can me mounted with easy access in a van, but in an SUV, na.

So for you case, I get it, you are doing more than just using it in the Cruiser. So that awesome, I’m happy it’s working for you. I just have been seeing a problem where guys the then think it’s a good option for strictly an auxiliary battery, and they were I have concerns.

But doesn’t 100ah AGM only give you 50ah useable power? I just had a group 31 in my 4runner for 10 years and that’s all I thought I could ever run down.

So in your example of charging in three hours, are you talking recharging 100ah or 50ah?

How much does the setup you describe weigh?

 

[Union]

Ya. I don’t really see the draw either.

I charge 12-14 items in my truck 24/7 (plus a fridge/freezer always running). Also run several other items while driving...and I have to big heavy interior unit to fiddle with. So ya...I just son’t See the need for one of these in a truck that is already super capable of charging/running, lighting, and starting my truck with a dual batt setup.

In the tent, I either run a USB extension for smaller devices...or just grab my Noco starter, which will also happily run lights, shower, charge devices in the tent & more...then still have tons of power for starting if needed. All that? Is after sitting dormant without top-off charging for many months. Thing is a beast, and weighs very little.

+1 on the NOCO. If your thinking about using a GZ due to modularity and the ability to go from DD to expedition rig by swapping stuff out, I'd also argue why not just throw a second battery under the hood. There is enough room, its cheaper, and its always out of the way.