Driveshaft/T-case noise/vibration/growl (3 Viewers)

MyWhiteSheep

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Ive been talking to members, trying to explain what I think and figure out what they are trying to tell me. Got home today and put the GoPro underneath and here's what I got.

My front DS is double cardan. I have a 4" lift with Slee caster correction. Seems like the noise is coming from the rear (due to how well your can hear the noise when the camera is in the rear. DS's and u-joints are greased. Please view vids and tell me what you think. Thanks in advance.

Front DS (@17s and slightly 30s)


Front DS (camera drop @37s. 50s on noise)


Rear DS (camera upside down. Noise after 1:06 on)

Rear DS 1.mp4 - https://drive.google.com/file/d/1LfR1qIfphjbW1NPfEHEZ5gwHy_l4Eb4J/view?usp=sharing

Rear DS (longest vid. Noise throughout)

Rear DS 2.mp4 - https://drive.google.com/file/d/13iOcstw7-mhlz49PlaLZMpmz0ue5yWNI/view?usp=sharing
 
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odessa, tx
Definitely the rear. Mine does the same in the rear. I'm taking my shafts to the shop this week for new u joints. Hopefully it fixes it. There are tons of threads on here about it. Yours seems to happen on decel or when coasting. Mine is the same. Curious to see what the solution is. If u joints don't solve Mine then I will try adjustable upper qnd lower links to get the pinion angle back in spec. You can pull the rear shaft and cruise around with the cdl locked to ensure its the rear but your videos seem pretty convincing
 
Joined
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San Diego
Videos suggest the rear. What is status of rear shaft? Balanced? U joints? If bad, grease/replace.
Before spending on control arms, pull rear driveshaft and drive. If vib gone, then go with Landtank longer lca. Seems like you wheel somewhat hard. His are beeeeeeeefier and longer to correct for your lift. Don’t need uppers with these.
or you could try a rear dc shaft
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Rear DS and u-joints greased. Front and rear DS are a few yrs old. Bought and balanced from Teton Cruisers.

Have to either find a spot or wait till the weekend to remove the DS. My driveway is like a 45% hill.
 
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Definitely the rear. Mine does the same in the rear. I'm taking my shafts to the shop this week for new u joints. Hopefully it fixes it. There are tons of threads on here about it. Yours seems to happen on decel or when coasting. Mine is the same. Curious to see what the solution is. If u joints don't solve Mine then I will try adjustable upper qnd lower links to get the pinion angle back in spec. You can pull the rear shaft and cruise around with the cdl locked to ensure its the rear but your videos seem pretty convincing
Hmm sounds like mine too. Damn its been bugging me and I couldn't pin point it. Guess I'm doing Ujoints now too.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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For what it's worth I have been told numerous times by different techs that these kinds of noises on decel, especially if they are worse going downhill, indicate pinion or transfer cast output bearings.
That's the three things I'm hearing and thinking it should be. The pinion, t-case bearings, or longer control arms.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Hmm sounds like mine too. Damn its been bugging me and I couldn't pin point it. Guess I'm doing Ujoints now too.
The u-joints are the cheapest option, good starting point, and if need to be changed, why not. My u-joints "should" be good.
 

alia176

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Gents

This is a classic "vibe upon decel" due to a lift. UJs won't cure it 100% because the angle is wrong but it'll help the vibes while you're at steady throttle. Your pinion is rotating as soon as you lift your foot off the gas pedal which causes the GRRRR. Also, worn bushings in the rear causes the pinion to rotate more, hence more GRRRR action.

You need to put that rear pinion back to its happy angle. Did you guys remember to measure this angle before lifting so that you can return it after wards using adj links? If not, find a non lifted 80 (yeah right!) and measure that angle of the pinion. Then park yours next to it and measure yours to see how much you're off by. Blackhawk has extended LCA that accounts for a lift and several vendors have adj UCA & LCA to bring this angle back.
 
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With chance of being obvious : Have you checked your rear propshaft for correct phasing?
I had the same thing happening for me, getting worse and worse as the months flew by.
Installed the diff lock button and drove the car a couple of days without rear propchaft. No noise .
Then went ahead an bought a complete OEM propshaft from toyota. But thought that it might be a good idea to install the old one until the new one arrived.
Upon installing I took a look in the FSM to double check how it was supposed to be installed. :censor: :bang:
No more noises and the brand new shaft sitting in its box :)
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Gents

This is a classic "vibe upon decel" due to a lift. UJs won't cure it 100% because the angle is wrong but it'll help the vibes while you're at steady throttle. Your pinion is rotating as soon as you lift your foot off the gas pedal which causes the GRRRR. Also, worn bushings in the rear causes the pinion to rotate more, hence more GRRRR action.

You need to put that rear pinion back to its happy angle. Did you guys remember to measure this angle before lifting so that you can return it after wards using adj links? If not, find a non lifted 80 (yeah right!) and measure that angle of the pinion. Then park yours next to it and measure yours to see how much you're off by. Blackhawk has extended LCA that accounts for a lift and several vendors have adj UCA & LCA to bring this angle back.

In the near future, I going to buy the pinion bearings and LCA. I emailed Landtank last night to see if he's still making and selling the 4" LCA. Don't think ill do adjustable because I will not go any higher that 4" (unless you all tell me otherwise).

Which kit do you recommend for the Transfer Case?
 

alia176

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In the near future, I going to buy the pinion bearings and LCA. I emailed Landtank last night to see if he's still making and selling the 4" LCA. Don't think ill do adjustable because I will not go any higher that 4" (unless you all tell me otherwise).

Which kit do you recommend for the Transfer Case?

Don't mess with the pinion bearing as of yet and same goes with the Tcase bearing. Changing pinion bearings is no small job and will take lots of money and a fair amount of time. You're going down a rabbit hole that may not be necessary. Sorry if I misled you with my earlier post. Just get whatever links it takes to get that pinion back to the correct angle and reassess.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Don't mess with the pinion bearing as of yet and same goes with the Tcase bearing. Changing pinion bearings is no small job and will take lots of money and a fair amount of time. You're going down a rabbit hole that may not be necessary. Sorry if I misled you with my earlier post. Just get whatever links it takes to get that pinion back to the correct angle and reassess.
Thanks
 
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Here's some new information on this build to the masses that may influence their "diagnosis":

The noise exists. Things that have changed post-noise with no effect on said noise:
Went from 3" to 4" lift
New front DC DS (Tatton)
New rear DS (Tatton)
New 5.29 gears in F/R diff's
Changed oil in TCase

The above items (other than the oil change) have about 20K miles on them and had no effect on the noise.

The only remaining thing in the system that could affect the noise is the rear output on the TCase.

Does this information sway anyone's thoughts?

After hearing the videos, I am still leaning to the rear output on the TCase. It is definitely in the rear.

I would recommend double checking the phase on the DS anyway. Front should be 90 out of phase with the primary knuckle on the DC shaft and the rear should be in phase.
Someone may correct me on the front DC shaft phase.

If it is the rear pinion, you need to check with warranty for the rebuilder (if any), but that is not a "swap the bearings and be on your way in a day" kind of thing. It's a rebuild of the rear diff and pulling axles.
 

alia176

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I just changed out the rear pinion bearings (complete diff rebuild) due to a whiny sound, not vibration. The bearing spun on the pinion so it had to go. I'm doubting the OP's outer pinion bearing has so much play that it'd cause the rear DS to vibrate.

Both the Tcase output and Pinion bearings are living in 90w oil bath. These bearings are mondo bearings and can take a beating so my focus would be the rear DS right now. I bet if you were to remove the lift, GRRRR would vanish. Short of that, go buy bags of Quikcrete and put enough weight in the cargo to lower the height. Doubt you can negate a 4" of lift but maybe worth a shot. Or find your fatty friends and stuff them back there then go for a spin :rofl:
 
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I agree with everything @alia176 said. Don't really want to be diving into transfer case and pinion bearings if you don't have to. Because you had no noise before the 3" lift it is most likely the rear pinion angle. (Or bad u joints that are now under stress from the increased pinion angle). Keep it cheap and simple, learn from our mistakes and avoid the rabbit hole :bang:and pull the rear driveshaft first. While it is out inspect the u joints. If noise gone, replace u joints and/or new shaft. If noise gone, done. If noise returns, use your angle finder like disctibe here: DC-Shaft pinion check - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/dc-shaft-pinion-check.781635/ Compare transfer flange angle to rear diff flange angle. They should be the same, or as close as you can get with longer LCA if needed. (If not, save $500) if needed, install Landtank extended LCA. If noise gone, done. If not, then follow what @BILT4ME said above.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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My plan worked to play hooky and get out of work. Installed the lower arms. At a visual, the pinion angle looks good. . .but still vibration 😔
 
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Did you try pulling the rear shaft and running without it to see if vibration is gone?

If you are running a dc rear shaft, swap for your original. Reason being that now that your transfer case flange and your rear diff flange are closer to the same angle, a dc shaft actually wont help. A standard shaft enjoys similar angles at both ends.
 
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