Driveshaft/T-case noise/vibration/growl (3 Viewers)

Joined
May 3, 2016
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1,109
Location
odessa, tx
I've been chasing this exact same problem so please allow me to share my experience.....

I've rebuilt both front and rear pumpkins to include all seals, bearings, gears and lockers. I've completely rebuilt the TC to include all bearings, seals and re-geared both high and low sides. I replaced the front drive shaft with a DC shaft. I still have a vibration that starts at about 65 mph and becomes unbearable at 75 mph. I have the growl and vibration upon lifting off the gas pedal. The only thing I've accomplished is to move the vibration up the speed scale about 10 mph and quieted the growl a little upon lifting.

After reading this thread from start to finish I can say I've already done everything being suggested. I'd hate to see someone else go down this expensive path of tearing into the diffs and TC. Mine were done as part of a total rebuild of the driveline and suspension before we discovered the vibration issue. I do believe the problem is in the drive shafts. I've pulled the front and driven a few miles and a lot of the noise and vibration went away, but not all. I haven't tried pulling the rear after installing the front DC shaft. That will happen this weekend. I also plan to go to a little shorter lift to improve drive shaft angles. A rebuild of he rear shaft is in my future. Someone mentioned above that new u-joints in their rear shaft helped, if not cured their problem.

If nothing else, a few new data points.
Replacing front and rear u joints fixed mine completely. I am running a 4 inch lift with man a fre radius drop brackets uo front. No pinion correction in the rear. Drop your shafts. Take them to the drive shaft shop and get them replaced if you haven't done so in 20 years. Especially before tackling the big possibilities.
 
Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
11,081
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
I've been chasing this exact same problem so please allow me to share my experience.....

I've rebuilt both front and rear pumpkins to include all seals, bearings, gears and lockers. I've completely rebuilt the TC to include all bearings, seals and re-geared both high and low sides. I replaced the front drive shaft with a DC shaft. I still have a vibration that starts at about 65 mph and becomes unbearable at 75 mph. I have the growl and vibration upon lifting off the gas pedal. The only thing I've accomplished is to move the vibration up the speed scale about 10 mph and quieted the growl a little upon lifting.

After reading this thread from start to finish I can say I've already done everything being suggested. I'd hate to see someone else go down this expensive path of tearing into the diffs and TC. Mine were done as part of a total rebuild of the driveline and suspension before we discovered the vibration issue. I do believe the problem is in the drive shafts. I've pulled the front and driven a few miles and a lot of the noise and vibration went away, but not all. I haven't tried pulling the rear after installing the front DC shaft. That will happen this weekend. I also plan to go to a little shorter lift to improve drive shaft angles. A rebuild of he rear shaft is in my future. Someone mentioned above that new u-joints in their rear shaft helped, if not cured their problem.

If nothing else, a few new data points.
Have you checked the phase on the rear DS? It should be in phase.

The yoke should be at the T-Case on the rear if a standard shaft.

The DC coupling on the front should also be at the T-Case.
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2015
Messages
823
Location
CA
I just fixed my growl. I bought a full rebuild from Cruiser outfitters and under drive gears. Did every single one. The front output shaft bearing was the worse one to pull cause of that stupid gear in that tight spot. You'll need to have basic tools, press, splitters, pullers of various sizes, random metal pieces, the old school snapon snap ring pliers (you'll thank me later. Don't try new snapon pliers. Buy used on ebay) and a lot of patience. Its a 🍌 🍌 🍌.5 job

I took a ton of pics and posted a few on my build page. If someone needs more I can post them up.

Edit....really the inner bearings were pretty much okish for estimated 300k tcase. The rear and front output housing bearings for mine has excessive play. We're talking way more than spec. I didnt measure it but maybe 400 to 500 thousandths
 
Last edited:

MyWhiteSheep

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Dec 3, 2019
Messages
769
Location
Cameron, NC
Replacing front and rear u joints fixed mine completely. I am running a 4 inch lift with man a fre radius drop brackets uo front. No pinion correction in the rear. Drop your shafts. Take them to the drive shaft shop and get them replaced if you haven't done so in 20 years. Especially before tackling the big possibilities.
Once upon a time I did have the Man a Few drop brackets. It did not help the issue. I think the u-joints would be more for vibration. I don't have vibration, just growl in the sweet spot of accel/decell.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Joined
Dec 3, 2019
Messages
769
Location
Cameron, NC
I just fixed my growl. I bought a full rebuild from Cruiser outfitters and under drive gears. Did every single one. The front output shaft bearing was the worse one to pull cause of that stupid gear in that tight spot. You'll need to have basic tools, press, splitters, pullers of various sizes, random metal pieces, the old school snapon snap ring pliers (you'll thank me later. Don't try new snapon pliers. Buy used on ebay) and a lot of patience. Its a 🍌 🍌 🍌.5 job

I took a ton of pics and posted a few on my build page. If someone needs more I can post them up.

Edit....really the inner bearings were pretty much okish for estimated 300k tcase. The rear and front output housing bearings for mine has excessive play. We're talking way more than spec. I didnt measure it but maybe 400 to 500 thousandths
I saw this on your thread last night. I have the rebuild kit in the cart, just waiting to pull the trigger to get an idea of when I'll get to it. This week is busy at work and our club has a lot of events the month starting this weekend.

Thanks for the info and I'll reference your thread.
 
Joined
Aug 14, 2019
Messages
49
Location
DFW
I've been chasing this exact same problem so please allow me to share my experience.....

I've rebuilt both front and rear pumpkins to include all seals, bearings, gears and lockers. I've completely rebuilt the TC to include all bearings, seals and re-geared both high and low sides. I replaced the front drive shaft with a DC shaft. I still have a vibration that starts at about 65 mph and becomes unbearable at 75 mph. I have the growl and vibration upon lifting off the gas pedal. The only thing I've accomplished is to move the vibration up the speed scale about 10 mph and quieted the growl a little upon lifting.

After reading this thread from start to finish I can say I've already done everything being suggested. I'd hate to see someone else go down this expensive path of tearing into the diffs and TC. Mine were done as part of a total rebuild of the driveline and suspension before we discovered the vibration issue. I do believe the problem is in the drive shafts. I've pulled the front and driven a few miles and a lot of the noise and vibration went away, but not all. I haven't tried pulling the rear after installing the front DC shaft. That will happen this weekend. I also plan to go to a little shorter lift to improve drive shaft angles. A rebuild of he rear shaft is in my future. Someone mentioned above that new u-joints in their rear shaft helped, if not cured their problem.

If nothing else, a few new data points.
A follow up to my earlier post:

I believe I've found the vibration source. It got much worse several weeks ago after some aggressive off-roading. That's when I went with the DC front shaft that made some improvement, but not enough. The truck's in the shop now for a couple of other issues and I had them check out the rear shaft for me. They immediately noticed one of the u-joints didn't look or feel good and pulled the shaft to replace it when they noticed the shaft was bent. Bent so badly that it can't be repaired and will need to be replaced. We were running some pretty rough trails but I didn't think I had hit the drive shaft. Should have the replacement tomorrow and my fingers are crossed that this is the true source.
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2015
Messages
823
Location
CA
A follow up to my earlier post:

I believe I've found the vibration source. It got much worse several weeks ago after some aggressive off-roading. That's when I went with the DC front shaft that made some improvement, but not enough. The truck's in the shop now for a couple of other issues and I had them check out the rear shaft for me. They immediately noticed one of the u-joints didn't look or feel good and pulled the shaft to replace it when they noticed the shaft was bent. Bent so badly that it can't be repaired and will need to be replaced. We were running some pretty rough trails but I didn't think I had hit the drive shaft. Should have the replacement tomorrow and my fingers are crossed that this is the true source.
Easier test than waiting for tomorrow since the DS is already off.

Center lock it and go for a drive. Front Wheel drive. You will know right away if you still have it or not!
 
Joined
May 3, 2016
Messages
1,109
Location
odessa, tx
Easier test than waiting for tomorrow since the DS is already off.

Center lock it and go for a drive. Front Wheel drive. You will know right away if you still have it or not!
Do this. I chased a front drive shaft vibe for a year. Finally did this and found out it was my rear drive shaft u joints.
 

MyWhiteSheep

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Dec 3, 2019
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Cameron, NC
IMO spending $$$ on OEM or Matsuba u joints is worthwhile for a lifted rig.

I've had cheap u-joints fail within months on a 4" lifted 80. Fail as in, causing excessive vibration in driveshaft.
In the same rig, oem joints lasted years with plenty of hard wheeling
Funny you say this. Though I don't think it's my u-joints, last night I did just order some Matsuba's from Cruiser Bros.
 

mudgudgeon

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Dec 17, 2007
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Between one lifetime and another
Funny you say this. Though I don't think it's my u-joints, last night I did just order some Matsuba's from Cruiser Bros.

When fitting them, c clip thickness can play a part too.

Toyota manufacture several different thickness c clips for uni joints.
If they are too thick, bearing caps can bind and cause vibration.
If too thin, it allows the spider to float side to side and can cause vibrations too.

This is something minor that is overlooked but can play a part when things are at the limits of their design capabilities
 
Joined
Oct 28, 2015
Messages
823
Location
CA
Agreed, I would have guessed more$$

I think I paid AUD$85 a piece for Toyota uni joints from my local stealership way back.
Lots cheaper online, but you still have worn slip yolk etc
I just threw down $500 on a new custom driveshaft using long spline, used Toy CV, new UJs, and new thick wall tube.
 

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