Driveshaft clearance: Anyone know what the f*** is happening here?

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You can steal the slip yoke end from the front shaft of an 80 series. A 40 has about 2 3/4 slip, a 60 has about 3 1/4, the front 80 has about 6".
Joint Fuji makes a kit with an 8" slip Cruiser Outfitters sells it. It comes with a the male and female slip, ujoints and the yoke.
The upside of the 80 yoke is that it allows 45 degrees of articulation vs 24~27 on 40 and 60 yokes. You will have to modify the
flange on the side where the 80 yoke will will bolt to. The bolt pattern is different. Cruiser Outfitters may also sell that. I just redrilled a pattern
for that this week. The transfer case had a round flange so, in that case, you rotate and redrill. All Land Cruiser driveshafts use the same diameter tube
so the slip yokes can be swapped between the different series , no special machining


:cool:

We can absolutely supply pre-drilled tcase or pinion flange with the matching pattern.

 
:cool:

We can absolutely supply pre-drilled tcase or pinion flange with the matching pattern.

This is such an often overlooked piece of building a capable, long travel suspension. Few people cycle their suspension , full compression to droop. and actually
observe what goes on at the u-joints and slip joint. To do so requires breaking the spring pack down to the single main leaf where the spring can be fully compressed
and fully drooped easily. The factory suspension was designed with about 5 1/2 ~ 6" of travel. The decided u-joints and slip joint were paired with that in mind.
A shackle reversal and a 8" travel front suspension using a factory 40 slip will almost assuredly pull apart under extreme droop. Fortunately the stock front towers are too short to run a shock long enough to allow that much droop without compromising full compression
 
You can steal the slip yoke end from the front shaft of an 80 series. A 40 has about 2 3/4 slip, a 60 has about 3 1/4, the front 80 has about 6".
Joint Fuji makes a kit with an 8" slip Cruiser Outfitters sells it. It comes with a the male and female slip, ujoints and the yoke.
The upside of the 80 yoke is that it allows 45 degrees of articulation vs 24~27 on 40 and 60 yokes. You will have to modify the
flange on the side where the 80 yoke will will bolt to. The bolt pattern is different. Cruiser Outfitters may also sell that. I just redrilled a pattern
for that this week. The transfer case had a round flange so, in that case, you rotate and redrill. All Land Cruiser driveshafts use the same diameter tube
so the slip yokes can be swapped between the different series , no special machining

Will do. Appreicate the insight. Gunna pull it off and run 2WD until I can save up for this
 
I would address those shackle pin extensions. The leaf springs are suppose to mount in the hanger. The way it’s set up now looks sketchy at best and may be dangerous. Find out what springs are installed. If you can… if they’re factory length then I would make an effort to replace the shackles and pins and get that spring mounted to the hanger itself. That will correct the issue and make steering safer. If for some reason the PO installed some longer springs in the front they had to do some weird modifications to get things to fit. Once you get that engine done look into replacing the suspension…cuz that’s suspect.
circling bakc on this Cp432. Want to make sure truck is safe now that engine is in.

I found out its a 4 inch manafre lift kit shackle reversal. im going to innstall crossmemebr BACKWARDS to prorely clearance it. I think the wear happened because #1 the PO didnt flip the dirvesahft when installing the lift (which is neccessary) and #2 it was grinding and hitting worse becase the negine wasnt installed, and towing it back and forth to the shop with tow straps it probably grinded and did the damage)

Curious what you mean and if this still applies. my truck does wander. I just want to make sure this is safe.

Dan
 
circling bakc on this Cp432. Want to make sure truck is safe now that engine is in.

I found out its a 4 inch manafre lift kit shackle reversal. im going to innstall crossmemebr BACKWARDS to prorely clearance it. I think the wear happened because #1 the PO didnt flip the dirvesahft when installing the lift (which is neccessary) and #2 it was grinding and hitting worse becase the negine wasnt installed, and towing it back and forth to the shop with tow straps it probably grinded and did the damage)

Curious what you mean and if this still applies. my truck does wander. I just want to make sure this is safe.

Dan

A shackle reversal setup is a huge can of worms. Start searching and reading stuff here on Mud. I have some suspicions though: Why would you install a crossmember backwards? What driveshaft gets installed backwards and why do you think it's necessary?

A shackle reversal can be set up properly, but it takes research and work. You don't just slap the kit on and drive as you would with a standard 2-3" "lift kit". Yours is already on the truck apparently, so how much work did the PO do to get it set up properly? We may never know. That's your job now. At minimum, these things should be on your list to either verify or do the work on if not already done:

-Good welds on the reversal plates up front
-Proper shims in the front
-Sway bar refresh with the correct length end links and new bushings
-Upgraded steering stabilizer
-Longer brake lines from the frame to the axle, front and rear
-Longer clutch hose from body to slave cylinder
-Longer (not reversed?) front driveshaft - Tom Woods or a reputable local shop recommended
-Possibly a clearanced crossmember for certain applications
-Proper length shocks for the job (normal stock size can blow out or damage mounts)
-Taller rear shackles
-Bonus: proper length leaf springs

All of that is here on Mud for you to find.
 
A shackle reversal setup is a huge can of worms. Start searching and reading stuff here on Mud. I have some suspicions though: Why would you install a crossmember backwards? What driveshaft gets installed backwards and why do you think it's necessary?

A shackle reversal can be set up properly, but it takes research and work. You don't just slap the kit on and drive as you would with a standard 2-3" "lift kit". Yours is already on the truck apparently, so how much work did the PO do to get it set up properly? We may never know. That's your job now. At minimum, these things should be on your list to either verify or do the work on if not already done:

-Good welds on the reversal plates up front
-Proper shims in the front
-Sway bar refresh with the correct length end links and new bushings
-Upgraded steering stabilizer
-Longer brake lines from the frame to the axle, front and rear
-Longer clutch hose from body to slave cylinder
-Longer (not reversed?) front driveshaft - Tom Woods or a reputable local shop recommended
-Possibly a clearanced crossmember for certain applications
-Proper length shocks for the job (normal stock size can blow out or damage mounts)
-Taller rear shackles
-Bonus: proper length leaf springs

All of that is here on Mud for you to find.
I hate the shacked reversal on my 62 was on it when I got it rides like a dump truck.
 
I hate the shacked reversal on my 62 was on it when I got it rides like a dump truck.
When I got my current 60 it had an SR going on. Springs were probably 15 years old at least, and none of the above concerns had been addressed. It’s much closer to being dialed in now and it’s fantastic. Buying the kit is about half the job … I hope the instructions that come with the kits say that.
 
I hate the shacked reversal on my 62 was on it when I got it rides like a dump truck.
In fact, if I did it from scratch I’d only buy the front plates and the front shackles, and roll your own for the rest of it. The leaf springs (standard 60 springs) are too short.
 
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A shackle reversal setup is a huge can of worms. Start searching and reading stuff here on Mud. I have some suspicions though: Why would you install a crossmember backwards? What driveshaft gets installed backwards and why do you think it's necessary?

A shackle reversal can be set up properly, but it takes research and work. You don't just slap the kit on and drive as you would with a standard 2-3" "lift kit". Yours is already on the truck apparently, so how much work did the PO do to get it set up properly? We may never know. That's your job now. At minimum, these things should be on your list to either verify or do the work on if not already done:

-Good welds on the reversal plates up front
-Proper shims in the front
-Sway bar refresh with the correct length end links and new bushings
-Upgraded steering stabilizer
-Longer brake lines from the frame to the axle, front and rear
-Longer clutch hose from body to slave cylinder
-Longer (not reversed?) front driveshaft - Tom Woods or a reputable local shop recommended
-Possibly a clearanced crossmember for certain applications
-Proper length shocks for the job (normal stock size can blow out or damage mounts)
-Taller rear shackles
-Bonus: proper length leaf springs

All of that is here on Mud for you to find.
I typoed. Flipping the 4wd DRIVESHAFT not the crossmember lol.

I’ll check on these. For now, if you don’t mind answering, can a shop extend the already retubed driveshaft I have now? I was told to flip it to get it to clearance (yoke facing back) ….. but curious why you recommend it longer .
F7EADA56-5077-4764-A241-BA87CFA6A031.jpeg
 
I typoed. Flipping the 4wd DRIVESHAFT not the crossmember lol.

I’ll check on these. For now, if you don’t mind answering, can a shop extend the already retubed driveshaft I have now? I was told to flip it to get it to clearance (yoke facing back) ….. but curious why you recommend it longer . View attachment 3794989
When I said “reputable local shop” that’s exactly what I meant. Take the driveshaft off at home, drive to the shop, plop it on the counter, and tell them the truck is in the parking lot and you need help measuring. Come back the next week, pay up, bolt your proper length driveshaft on at home. Stock is too short and the slip joint can come apart. Dangerous.


60s had different front driveshafts and different transmission crossmembers, so what you need to do will vary based on what you’ve got. I’ve got a 1982, V-shaped crossmember, no transmission spacer, double cardan front driveshaft. YMMV. That driveshaft you show has a yoke on either side so I don’t understand which side you mean when you say “yoke facing back”. Anyway…

Search. Read. Many threads here.
 
My 60 is sprung over, the prior owner shimmed the cross member. I recently cut and welded up a channel so that the front drive shaft has clearance.
1734487814854.jpeg

1734487939610.jpeg
 
My 60 is sprung over, the prior owner shimmed the cross member. I recently cut and welded up a channel so that the front drive shaft has clearance.
View attachment 3795149
View attachment 3795150
Shimming the crossmember is like PhD-level s***. My Masters-level guess is that it helps the front driveline angle enough to avoid a cut-n-turn on the front axle, or at minimum (if a cut n turn is still required) it still makes the driveline angle better.

How did that affect your front engine mounts? The crossmember shims would tilt the entire motor up or down a degree or two, so the front motor mounts wouldn’t meet flat with the brackets on the engine side, right?

For what it’s worth I’m about 1.5-2 degrees tilted up in the back on motor/transmission/transfer assembly.
 
Not sure of angles, the Pryor owner had 3-4 washers between the trans and cross member and a couple between the frame and cross member. The front shaft only touched CM when the wheels droop/drop.

So channeling fixed the issue.
 
Shimming the crossmember is like PhD-level s***. My Masters-level guess is that it helps the front driveline angle enough to avoid a cut-n-turn on the front axle, or at minimum (if a cut n turn is still required) it still makes the driveline angle better.

How did that affect your front engine mounts? The crossmember shims would tilt the entire motor up or down a degree or two, so the front motor mounts wouldn’t meet flat with the brackets on the engine side, right?

For what it’s worth I’m about 1.5-2 degrees tilted up in the back on motor/transmission/transfer assembly.


FYi a cut and turn will do nothing for driveline angle.

I have absolutely dialed in this suspension setup before. Build thread is on here.

Cheers
 
Flipping the driveshaft will do nothing except maybe get you 1mm of clearance by having the skinny slip area really close to the crossmember. What flipping it will really do is have you extra confident in how it’s driving, couple too many $2 coors lights deep at the local sausage grinder and your buddies arguing their Honda CRV is the ultimate offroad machine and you showing them why it’s not! While you flex too far and jam that flipped driveshaft into the crossmember, but now the lip on the slip end is stuck on the crossmember so it shears off (if lucky); or finally pops itself free when you do a Grave Digger inspired sky wheelie and it slams itself back, shearing off the transfer case from the transmission.

That does sound pretty sweet. But I’d probably just figure out exactly WHY it’s rubbing and address it properly. I’m 2.3 whiskey mules deep though and shouldn’t be posting anyway, so take it at what it’s worth.


1734581025806.jpeg
 
Flipping the driveshaft will do nothing except maybe get you 1mm of clearance by having the skinny slip area really close to the crossmember. What flipping it will really do is have you extra confident in how it’s driving, couple too many $2 coors lights deep at the local sausage grinder and your buddies arguing their Honda CRV is the ultimate offroad machine and you showing them why it’s not! While you flex too far and jam that flipped driveshaft into the crossmember, but now the lip on the slip end is stuck on the crossmember so it shears off (if lucky); or finally pops itself free when you do a Grave Digger inspired sky wheelie and it slams itself back, shearing off the transfer case from the transmission.

That does sound pretty sweet. But I’d probably just figure out exactly WHY it’s rubbing and address it properly. I’m 2.3 whiskey mules deep though and shouldn’t be posting anyway, so take it at what it’s worth.


View attachment 3795887
Lol I've done this not in a monster truck and it was the rear driveshaft not the front so it was the opposite of the photo of my friend Dennis Anderson he is a maniac behind the wheel of everything lol
 
FYi a cut and turn will do nothing for driveline angle.

I have absolutely dialed in this suspension setup before. Build thread is on here.

Cheers
Right. U-joint angle is what I intended to say. Driveline angle will be roughly the same, but if your pinion is pointing a wonky direction you’ll be eating u-joints.
 

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