Maybe somebody can point me in the right direction. I was having issues with my driver window working only when it wanted to. So the read the threads and figured id start with a new 'Switchdoctor' main switch. It worked great for maybe a few months and now its back to working when it wants. Im pretty short on time to fiddle with it. Any suggestions? Figure pull the door panel? I just happen to notice that the dash voltage gauge will slightly drop if i power the other 3 window switches but no drop when trying to operate the driver window switch. Sorry for the long post/question
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inkpot
SILVER Star
Did you ever try cleaning up the switch contacts in the original switch panel? That is one of the most common fixes. If you still have that part, I would try repairing it.
ewillis
SILVER Star
Sorry for the hijack, but what is the "Sanoran SuperKooler System" in your sig line? I've searched, but can't figure it out.
@Alron67
Try cleaning the contacts on your original master switch. Their should be some threads on it. Also, the window auto up mod thread has some great pictures for you to see what's in there.
Toyota runs the power to operate the window through the switch versus a relay. That causes the switch to wear out over time through normal wear.
Also, to rule out a faulty window motor, take your door panel off to gain access to the window motor. Run fused power and ground from the battery directly to your window motor. If it goes up and down easily and fast, your switch needs cleaning and or replacing. If not, replacing the window motor is probably in your future.
Try cleaning the contacts on your original master switch. Their should be some threads on it. Also, the window auto up mod thread has some great pictures for you to see what's in there.
Toyota runs the power to operate the window through the switch versus a relay. That causes the switch to wear out over time through normal wear.
Also, to rule out a faulty window motor, take your door panel off to gain access to the window motor. Run fused power and ground from the battery directly to your window motor. If it goes up and down easily and fast, your switch needs cleaning and or replacing. If not, replacing the window motor is probably in your future.
I'm on my second switch and I feel it has a dead spot in it allready. Driver side window only. It goes down just fine but has a dead spot going up. I'll have to replace it in a month or so. PO replaced it as well. So this will be the 4th master switch panel. Might have better luck with a toyota replacement. I have the $20 eBay specials.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
If it has a "dead spot", I'd look for damage on the sector gear. It may not matter going sown, when it has gravity assist, but it would stick going up.
No. They go up and down just fine. If the switch is pulled too hard it wont go up. Have to hit it just right. With a new switch its fine for about a year. I use my driver window more than most.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Ah, so. In the words of the immortal Rosanne Rosanadana, "Nevermind".
My driver window is pretty much useless as of now. I think I am just going to run a new + & - from the battery to a relay I'll place in the arm rest and just trigger it with the driver window switch.
- Thread starter
- #10
Yes, i actually opened the original switch prior to buying the replacement. Cleaned all of the contacts but still nothing. 2 days later and started working for a month or so thr stopped again. Thats when i finally got the replacement.
- Thread starter
- #11
next check will be direct power to the window. I thought i seen a thread somewhere along the way about using a Toyota camry switch. Maybe it's just a design flaw with the units used on the 80
- Thread starter
- #12
That is if the direct power works
inkpot
SILVER Star
Mostly a combo of small, fairly well known mods and upgrades that seems to perform rather well, enough so that I wheel in the desert summer without overheating. I'll PM you the details. John
@Alron67
Well I just checked out my intermittent window master switch today... pins 7 & 8 (blue wires with black stripe) are the 12v + that goes to the switch with Ignition ON. Pins 1 & 2 are grounds (white with black stripe). Pins 6 (black) & 13 (red) are the ground and positive to the window motor. Polarity is swapped between these two wires in the switch to make the window go up or down.
I had a pigtail and master switch from a 90's era Camry or 4Runner. Doesn't matter which as they are the same switch as the 80 switch & I've grabbed 4 or 5 of them from pick and pulls over the years.
Anyway, I pulled a wire from the donor pigtail and spliced it up with 14 gauge wire and a 25 amp fuse direct to the battery to either pin 7 or 8. I got approx 0.4 volts more with the direct wire from battery at the switch. I lost another 0.1-0.2 volts at the window motor. So net loss from stock wiring is approx half a volt on my 80.
Looks like I can run wires from pins 7 & 8 to two separate relays and wire them up direct to the battery so that the driver window switch only triggers the relays and doesn't run all of the power to the motor.
I'll tinker with it more tomorrow.
Well I just checked out my intermittent window master switch today... pins 7 & 8 (blue wires with black stripe) are the 12v + that goes to the switch with Ignition ON. Pins 1 & 2 are grounds (white with black stripe). Pins 6 (black) & 13 (red) are the ground and positive to the window motor. Polarity is swapped between these two wires in the switch to make the window go up or down.
I had a pigtail and master switch from a 90's era Camry or 4Runner. Doesn't matter which as they are the same switch as the 80 switch & I've grabbed 4 or 5 of them from pick and pulls over the years.
Anyway, I pulled a wire from the donor pigtail and spliced it up with 14 gauge wire and a 25 amp fuse direct to the battery to either pin 7 or 8. I got approx 0.4 volts more with the direct wire from battery at the switch. I lost another 0.1-0.2 volts at the window motor. So net loss from stock wiring is approx half a volt on my 80.
Looks like I can run wires from pins 7 & 8 to two separate relays and wire them up direct to the battery so that the driver window switch only triggers the relays and doesn't run all of the power to the motor.
I'll tinker with it more tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #15
UPDATE: Clouds rolled in and figured had to pull the panel and direct power to the motor. Went up. Phew, guess i dont need a window motor. One thing i did notice was the female window connector were a loose fit on the male spade connector. They plastic clip easily seperated. I used a small awl to bend the female clip so it grabs/contacts the male spade better. Tested the switch and it works. Idk if it helped or of thr loose contact was an issue but its working. Happy for now.
Glad it was an easy fix for you.
I ran the wire to the battery through the driver side firewall grommet, though the door jamb & door grommets today. What a PITA but at least it's watertight. I'll get around to wiring the relays tonight or tomorrow.
I ran the wire to the battery through the driver side firewall grommet, though the door jamb & door grommets today. What a PITA but at least it's watertight. I'll get around to wiring the relays tonight or tomorrow.
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I bought a new master switch for $20 on eBay.
I've been through 4 master switches over the years.
They all start to fail over time due to the current going through the switch. Especially a $20 eBay one. Toyota switches at the dealer are $300
You also get a 0.5V loss going through the factory wiring. Adding wire and relays will allow the majority of the current to not go through the switch thus easing wear and tear on the switch. More current to the motor equals a faster window. Just jumper the motor to the battery. You'll see.
I'm going to finish up the relays and check the performance. I then might swap in the right rear door motor as that has probably been used a lot less over 21 years. Hopefully, it will probably last a lot longer as I don't want to open this up again.
I'm also going on my fourth master switch. I looked into the oem units but as you know they are pricey. I do not know enough about the process to do what you are doing so I'll just be a slave to eBay switches. Lol
No worries man. I post up separate thread when I get it sorted out. I just got some relay plugs this afternoon. Just need to find the time to finish it up.
