Dramatic difference in braking feel and power

[koretex]

I replaced (actually my buddy did while I watched and drank beer) my pads and rotors last night. I replaced them with TRD pads, that I picked up on the one day TRD 40th anniversary sale a couple weeks ago. I only mention that because I know some people will want to know why I went the TRD pads. While we are on the subject of "why", the reason I went with the rotors is because of reputation and "bang for buck" that Stoptech usually offers.

TRD Rear Pads Part Number = PTR090C110 and I paid $90, Amazon has them for $100 shipped
TRD Front Pads Part Number = PTR090C111 and I paid $90, Amazon has them for $103 shipped

StopTech Rear Rotors Part Number = JBR1355XPR, $141 shipped at Amazon
StopTech Front Rotors Part Number = JBR1312XPR, $151 shipped at Amazon

So for right around $500 shipped, I feel like this is a great deal! I couldn't find anything here or on Google with anyone using this combo. I have about 13k miles on the dealership flushed fluid, so I decided to NOT do a flush. Stock brake lines, actually completely stock brake system. I went from...

OEM Rear rotors shot, 3/4mm left but OEM pads were at about 75%
OEM Front rotors had been turned once about 40k miles ago, but still looked like they had decent life left, but OEM pads were at about 10% and squealing.

The difference in braking is by far the largest difference in braking I've ever felt on any vehicle I've ever owned (Acuras, Audis, VW, Subaru, and Chevys) going from OEM components to Performance aftermarket (yes I'm aware TRD is OEM but you know what I mean) brake pads/rotors. The pedal feel is perfect now, the initial bite comes on almost instantly instead of almost half way depressed like it was. The amount of effort I have to place on the pedal has gone from a decent amount (my wife said it would make her legs sore!), to almost nothing, and the stopping power now is just ridiculously good. In fact I'm shocked a vehicle this large can stop this well now.

 

[pizdets17]

dammit I just did my front OEM rotors and pads. The braking is pretty much my only annoyance with this truck. Good post

 

[LCMemphis]

Great post...sign me up. Thanks for sharing.

 

[bloc]

I’m also very happy with the TRD pads though I used new OEM rotors. At first I thought they’d dust a lot, but that must have just been break-in. After a long road trip they still dust some, definitely more than stock, but it’s not bad at all.

 

[eatSleepWoof]

Good stuff. I'll need to do breaks in a few months, so bookmarking this thread!

// edit - just ordered the same parts off of Amazon.ca.

 

[Reckless]

I did TRD pads twice and third time went akebanos. Haven't noticed a difference in braking feel with the akebanos vs TRD pads. The Akebanos were just as good as TRD pads.

I did notice a slight difference from stock to TRD. I was disappointed as I wanted even better stopping power. Since I run a 17" RW wheel a rotor size upgrade with more calipers did not seem possible.

 

[afgman786]

Completely agree with you. I love having TRD pads! My rotors and pads were almost new but it was so squishy I thought they were done. Only when I went to replace the parts I realized everything was relatively new (rotors and pads).

I'm running DBA slotted rotors with the TRD pads. The initiation of the brakes is just perfect!

 

[M1911]

I would be surprised if changing pads would make the brakes feel less squishy. I suspect that is more likely due to proper bleeding of the brakes.

 

[bloc]

Since I run a 17" RW wheel a rotor size upgrade with more calipers did not seem possible.

You could always do the tundra/16+ 200 brakes. They gain a significant chunk of rotor size, though not “big brake kit” territory.. and fit under rock warriors just fine.

I would be surprised if changing pads would make the brakes feel less squishy. I suspect that is more likely due to proper bleeding of the brakes.

That depends. A pad with better Initial Bite will take less pedal pressure to start slowing the vehicle, giving the impression of a firmer pedal.

 

[afgman786]

I would be surprised if changing pads would make the brakes feel less squishy. I suspect that is more likely due to proper bleeding of the brakes.

I did my brakes myself and only did pads and rotors. Still need to do stainless brakes lines and brake fluid change.
Agree with @bloc it most likely is the fact that the intial bite is stronger, there for making me feel they are less squishy.

 

[Reckless]

I did stainless brakes lines with brake fluid change- I didn't notice anything.

I thought about tundra upgrade but was talked out of it.

 

[Crab Sack]

I would be surprised if changing pads would make the brakes feel less squishy. I suspect that is more likely due to proper bleeding of the brakes.

That's what I thought but switching to TRD pads with stock rotors made the brakes more aggressive and it acts responsively. No more one inch of brake pedal travel and then nose dive. They apply evenly now. I did my own brakes and never bled them.

 

[m3fan]

Fantastic post, I did this exact thing and the braking feel is WAY better. The ONLY feedback I'd add is that in the salt belt the salt got a hold of the drill holes in the drilled rotors this winter. Somehow that was a foothold for corrosion and you can still see it, even after a summer of braking, around those holes. Also vibrations through the brake pedal now as well. So, absolutely glorious modification but in the rust belt maybe use regular rotors.

 

[m3fan]

So some long term follow up on here- these slotted and drilled rotors do not work in the rust belt. Just swapped these out for solid rotors and standard pads and it's like a dream in comparison to the grabby pulsating combo of salted drilled/slotted rotors and the TRD pads, good riddance. See the photo below. You can see how the corrosion spreads out causing really lumpy pad deposits, so annoying.

 

[TeCKis300]

So some long term follow up on here- these slotted and drilled rotors do not work in the rust belt. Just swapped these out for solid rotors and standard pads and it's like a dream in comparison to the grabby pulsating combo of salted drilled/slotted rotors and the TRD pads, good riddance. See the photo below. You can see how the corrosion spreads out causing really lumpy pad deposits, so annoying.

View attachment 2990154

Appreciate the feedback. Too many new to this are attracted by the race inspired features. And at least on most non-race pedigreed brands, is just cosmetic features that create opportunities issues.

Blanks are best.

 

[koretex]

OP here, I wanted to update on this brake setup.

Around 5'ish months ago I started to get a brake wobble that is usually indicative of a warped rotor|s, it has only gotten worse. This happened with 3 years and around 25k miles on this brake setup. I did change out the brake fluid around the same time the wobble/shake started. I'm going to the shop sometime next week and will report back with their diagnoses.

 

[OregonLC]

FWIW, someone here a while back recommended the Hawk LTS and they're... fantastic. Running them on OE rotors that had ~40k of OEM pad use. The Hawk have probably 30% less pedal effort than OE Toyota pads.

Also, I don't ever have warped rotors in any of my vehicles. This is a long discussion, but I don't believe rotors actually 'warp'. It's uneven brake lining transfer from hard (hot) stops where the vehicle sits motionless and the pads bake onto the rotors creating a different μk at that position on the rotor. The pulsation isn't warpage, it's uneven friction. My solution: don't allow the vehicle to stay static after a hard stop, always creep, even if just a little. Depending on slope you can also roll slowly in neutral to reduce caliper force further. Done this for decades and never seem to have a brake pulsation issue.

 

[TeCKis300]

^This. I second LTS pads having used multiple sport pads on the LX and various vehicles. Excellent modulation, power, fade resistance, and not as dusty as some formulations to boot.