Drained Battery and can't open door or hood

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Would having a strategically placed 50 amp Anderson Plug work to back feed the battery help?
 
Would having a strategically placed 50 amp Anderson Plug work to back feed the battery help?
Yes, but that seems overkill. I recall someone trying to backfeed the trailer wiring harness, but I can’t remember if it worked out. A simple trickle charger pigtail is all you need.
 
Yes, but that seems overkill. I recall someone trying to backfeed the trailer wiring harness, but I can’t remember if it worked out. A simple trickle charger pigtail is all you need.

Yeah I wasn't sure if a 3 amp trickle charge would give enough current to do the job. In reality I have that setup to keep the batteries up as it's not a DD. Not sure back feeding the trailer pigtail would work but interesting idea. The Anderson could also serve as a jump start location.
 
When you say it won’t work, will it turn but not do anything? Or won’t turn at all?
It turns to the left and to the right, fully. But the intended action does not unlock the door.
However, with the battery connected and a turn of the key to the right while keeping it there will open the windows and sunroof.
 
I had same problem, battery completely dead and mechanical key would not unlock.

My splash shields are long gone. It was easy to access the alternator on the passenger side.

I hooked up a battery charger on the stud for main wire off the alternator and got the doors unlocked immediately.

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I had same problem, battery completely dead and mechanical key would not unlock.

My splash shields are long gone. It was easy to access the alternator on the passenger side.

I hooked up a battery charger on the stud for main wire off the alternator and got the doors unlocked immediately.

View attachment 3087813

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Great idea! Thanks for posting this.

Even if the shields are still there the lower tabs are easy to unclip and make room. The uppers are harder to get to without breaking but I don't see any need. (I'm sure you know this but posting for anyone stumbling upon the thread)

Now I'm curious about why a key won't work with no juice.. this happening so much can't be a coincidence.
 
I wonder (without any facts or evidence) if it is an electro mechanical system.

We've been doing a lot of work on my son's land rover disco door lock actuators, and that setup has the key/lock cylinder rotate a mechanical switch, which then causes an electric motor to turn to do the actual lock/unlock part. Without power the actuator doesn't unlock with a key.
 
I wonder (without any facts or evidence) if it is an electro mechanical system.

We've been doing a lot of work on my son's land rover disco door lock actuators, and that setup has the key/lock cylinder rotate a mechanical switch, which then causes an electric motor to turn to do the actual lock/unlock part. Without power the actuator doesn't unlock with a key.
That is totally plausible, though to me seems below the "dependability" standard of a landcruiser.

Maybe we should track down someone that changed a door lock actuator motor since they've been inside the mechanism.. I'd tear one of mine down but those things are buried pretty deep inside the door for mere exploratory surgery.
 
What would you guys recommend for an emergency charging pigtail in the event you can't get under the hood? I still have the factory splash guards installed (I mean the lightweight factory skid plates).

I have a few Battery Tender pigtails but they are all too short to reach anywhere from the battery to outside the engine bay. Would it make sense to rig one to the alternator and tie it off somewhere below the splash guards? Or, in the event it happened just remove the guards to access the alternator like @HDJdreams did? I would just want it somewhere easily accessible, rattle free, and reasonably protected from dirt, water, and the salt from Michigan roads.
 
The first three pages of this thread read like a Jack Carr novel. What a relief the bomb didn't go off and the hostages were freed.
 
What would you guys recommend for an emergency charging pigtail in the event you can't get under the hood? I

The 'emergency pigtail' is the key. If that works there's no need for anything else. If it doesn't work, fix that first.
 
Or, in the event it happened just remove the guards to access the alternator like

This. The lower retaining pins can be opened with a flat-head screwdriver, if not your fingernails. That lets the guard swing out and you have access like in the picture.
 
What would you guys recommend for an emergency charging pigtail in the event you can't get under the hood? I still have the factory splash guards installed (I mean the lightweight factory skid plates).

I have a few Battery Tender pigtails but they are all too short to reach anywhere from the battery to outside the engine bay. Would it make sense to rig one to the alternator and tie it off somewhere below the splash guards? Or, in the event it happened just remove the guards to access the alternator like @HDJdreams did? I would just want it somewhere easily accessible, rattle free, and reasonably protected from dirt, water, and the salt from Michigan roads.
I have a charging pigtail that is zip tied to the grill. It ticks out of sight easily.
I used it to maintain an AGM battery, but it provides peace of mind for this situation, even though O agree the key should work in a flat battery situation.
These are less than $5 . . .
 
Thanks @bloc and @grinchy! I need to take a closer look at the grill. The last time I looked, everything looked so damn sealed off near the battery. I'm getting IGLA/Compustar/GPS alarm installed next week and that will only increase the chances of a dead battery if I forget to put the LC on a charger for too long.

@KLF's solution on page 3, post #57 is probably the ultimate solution, but I'm not ready to switch to mounting a charger inside the engine bay.
 
Thanks @bloc and @grinchy! I need to take a closer look at the grill. The last time I looked, everything looked so damn sealed off near the battery. I'm getting IGLA/Compustar/GPS alarm installed next week and that will only increase the chances of a dead battery if I forget to put the LC on a charger for too long.

@KLF's solution on page 3, post #57 is probably the ultimate solution, but I'm not ready to switch to mounting a charger inside the engine bay.
There are places by the evap piping
 
I wonder (without any facts or evidence) if it is an electro mechanical system.

We've been doing a lot of work on my son's land rover disco door lock actuators, and that setup has the key/lock cylinder rotate a mechanical switch, which then causes an electric motor to turn to do the actual lock/unlock part. Without power the actuator doesn't unlock with a key.

Ive looked thought the FSM and can't find definitively a mechanical rod from the lock to the handle. Wait for a junky ship to surface a unit to examine.
 
Ive looked thought the FSM and can't find definitively a mechanical rod from the lock to the handle. Wait for a junky ship to surface a unit to examine.
People have posted pictures in this section of a clear mechanical link from the lock to the mech. Now whether this actually unlocks the mech or some internal electrical activation needs to happen seems more open to investigation.. but I'm pretty sure there is a rod.

Edit: in the FSM vehicle exterior > door/hatch > front door > disassembly > step 29 shows the rod.
 
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I think the point is that you need to lock and unlock the car every now and then with the mechanical key since the mechanics will stuck by dust and dirt over the time?!
Other thing. Normaly the battery should hold power for a rly long time.
The LandCruiser drains something like max 50mAh and has normaly two 90Ah Batteries you can use to like around 80%. Should be power for 2880h -> 120days.
 
I think the point is that you need to lock and unlock the car every now and then with the mechanical key since the mechanics will stuck by dust and dirt over the time?!
Other thing. Normaly the battery should hold power for a rly long time.
The LandCruiser drains something like max 50mAh and has normaly two 90Ah Batteries you can use to like around 80%. Should be power for 2880h -> 120days.
FYI, the US version with the petrol 5.7 comes with a single battery.
 

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