Drained Battery and can't open door or hood (7 Viewers)

[bloc]

Man, this has had me stumped all day.

And like Bloc says I don’t think the door has a mechanical lock mechanism. I think it just hits a sensor so you need power.

Actually, I'm saying when it is working correctly there is definitely a mechanical lock mechanism from the key into the latch assembly. Someone else had this issue and took it apart to find the linkage not installed correctly. I just don't think OPs is functioning correctly, whether from not being hooked up or a different problem.

 

[4gotalot]

Problem:
1. No 12v power to operate the smart truck...
2. The one and only mechanical back up entry system inop. (this can be figured out later)
Answer: Get power into the system or find another mechanical devise to gain entry.
I just drilled and tapped my SPC UCA's for grease zerks just recently and remembered there is a wire bundle just in from of the bolt head and in the way when you want to remove the long bolt.

Do you have a pocket knife and a battery charger? Look inside the front left wheel well and behind the front splash guard and you will see a large wire bundle that contains a large gauge wire that comes off the positive terminal of the battery. Remove the fwd splash guard that is in front of the UCA bolt head and then unwrap a portion of the bundle to expose the large gauge wire. Cut into the large wire insulation just enough to not damage the copper wire itself but enough to put a volt meter on it to ck remaining volts for the rest of us. Then clamp on the positive terminal of your battery charger to the exposed copper wire. Find a ground on the frame for the negative lead from the battery charger. Start charging. Wait for it...ok, now try the button.

The cut that was made in the insulation can be sealed up with lots of options to prevent corrosion and then rewrap the wire bundle.

 

[mobajwa]

Latest Update:

I called AAA and they sent out a tech earlier today. The tech ended up using the air wedge tool to create a gap and insert the wire tool to unlock the drivers side door. I was concerned that the tool would damage/warp the plastic on the door but fortunately that did not happen. However the tool did end up scratching the panel with the power window buttons. (Picture)

Plus there are some minor scuffs on the lock itself from the wire. (Picture)

Once the vehicle was unlocked, we opened the hood, attached a battery and then were able to start the vehicle. Took it for a quick trip to charge the battery and little and runs all good now! (The battery meter is hovering around 14v.) (Picture)

Getting back to the original issue of the physical keys not working, that is still there. The buttons on the smart keyfob can unlock/lock it fine but both the physical keys are still not able to unlock the vehicle

Next step would be to take this in to the dealership to find out whats going on. Until then, need to ensure that the battery doesn't fully run out again !

 

[mobajwa]

Silly question but at no time in that video did I see you try turning it to the left. Every time appears to be clockwise. Have you tried both directions?

Good catch. Yes, after recording the video, I did try to turn it on counter clockwise as well but that didn't work too.

 

[RET2]

Latest Update:

I called AAA and they sent out a tech earlier today. The tech ended up using the air wedge tool to create a gap and insert the wire tool to unlock the drivers side door. I was concerned that the tool would damage/warp the plastic on the door but fortunately that did not happen. However the tool did end up scratching the panel with the power window buttons. (Picture)

View attachment 2381456

Plus there are some minor scuffs on the lock itself from the wire. (Picture)

View attachment 2381457

Once the vehicle was unlocked, we opened the hood, attached a battery and then were able to start the vehicle. Took it for a quick trip to charge the battery and little and runs all good now! (The battery meter is hovering around 14v.) (Picture)

View attachment 2381458


Getting back to the original issue of the physical keys not working, that is still there. The buttons on the smart keyfob can unlock/lock it fine but both the physical keys are still not able to unlock the vehicle

Next step would be to take this in to the dealership to find out whats going on. Until then, need to ensure that the battery doesn't fully run out again !

Save yourself the grief and install one of those SAE pigtails that come with a Battery Tender and poke the end out thru thru grill then loop end back in. Trust me it will save your bacon and you can keep your battery charged up.

 

[TeCKis300]

Glad you're in!!

Count on replacing the battery ASAP. Flooded lead acid batts left discharged for any duration, will have irreversible damage. In your case, it was actually depleted for a substantial period and will no longer have meaningful reserve. You'll want to change it less you'll potentially experience the same issue tomorrow.

 

[RET2]

Glad you're in!!

Count on replacing the battery ASAP. Flooded lead acid batts left discharged for any duration, will have irreversible damage. In your case, it was actually depleted for a period and will no longer have meaningful reserve. You'll want to change it less you'll potentially experience the same issue tomorrow.

Truer words were never spoken.

 

[mobajwa]

Glad you're in!!

Count on replacing the battery ASAP. Flooded lead acid batts left discharged for any duration, will have irreversible damage. In your case, it was actually depleted for a substantial period and will no longer have meaningful reserve. You'll want to change it less you'll potentially experience the same issue tomorrow.

Thanks. Any recommendation on what battery to go with for the replacement ? (I have an interstate battery warehouse around my place here in SoCal and I can swing by to get a replacement this week.)

 

[Weedhopper]

Go get a NAPA battery. They will probably toss it in for you and take your core back. I see Advance Auto has a banner advertising Die Hard and they will take the core back.

We used to use interstate batteries in our trucks. Too many just failed for no reason, enough to show us there was a problem.

Only three batt manufacturers out there anyway that sell to different labels.

 

[TLC2013]

Thanks. Any recommendation on what battery to go with for the replacement ? (I have an interstate battery warehouse around my place here in SoCal and I can swing by to get a replacement this week.)

if you are not looking to spend an arm and A leg Costco has the type 27 for about $100. Replaced my oem battery with their interstate type 27. Been great, no issues with winching.

 

[bloc]

Make sure they install a group 27. I believe either a 24 or 35 will technically bolt in but doesn’t have as much reserve capacity.

 

[TeCKis300]

Yes, group 27F is the battery type you're looking for. Any standard battery of that format will work. There are some higher quality brands and models but may not have appreciably more reserve unless you're looking to do some modifications to fit something like a group 31 battery.

 

[grinchy]

Stick with flooded lead acid

 

[Weedhopper]

You might think about an onboard batt charger. It’s just a regular trickle charger installed in the truck hardwired to the battery.

A plug in the engine compartment connects to an extension cord. Just don’t forget to unplug before you leave.

We did this on my parents Lexus as they rarely drove the car. Works like a champ.

 

[RET2]

You might think about an onboard batt charger. It’s just a regular trickle charger installed in the truck hardwired to the battery.

A plug in the engine compartment connects to an extension cord. Just don’t forget to unplug before you leave.

We did this on my parents Lexus as they rarely drove the car. Works like a champ.

I concur but with the caveat that the trickle charger remains out of the vehicle and the connection should one forget is 12 volts not 120 volts. Personally I wouldn't want 120v applied to the exterior of my LC. Same end result just a little safer IMHO. Properly fused at the battery.

 

[CharlieS]

I keep the vehicles that I don't drive often on trickle chargers, and it works well to keep the batteries in good condition.

Back when I was a firefighter, all of our vehicles had breakaway (power and air) plugs, so if you drove off, and forgot to unplug them, they would safely disconnect. I wonder if there is a home equivalent?

 

[KLF]

Connects to a NOCO Genius 2-bank charger that hides behind the grille. I condition the AGM batteries at least once a week now, since it's so easy. I have an extension cord that stays on the floor right there, with a strong rope attached, tied to a workbench. Any time I have it connected, I have a big ugly sign I put on my driver's seat that reminds me. If, by chance, I forget to unplug and start to back out, the rope will cleanly yank the cord out of that socket, no trauma. This is a NOCO product.

Amazon product ASIN B009ANV81S
I have another connector just like that on the other side of the plate for the block heater.

 

[99Cruiser]

Latest Update:

I called AAA and they sent out a tech earlier today. The tech ended up using the air wedge tool to create a gap and insert the wire tool to unlock the drivers side door. I was concerned that the tool would damage/warp the plastic on the door but fortunately that did not happen. However the tool did end up scratching the panel with the power window buttons. (Picture)

View attachment 2381456

Plus there are some minor scuffs on the lock itself from the wire. (Picture)

View attachment 2381457

Once the vehicle was unlocked, we opened the hood, attached a battery and then were able to start the vehicle. Took it for a quick trip to charge the battery and little and runs all good now! (The battery meter is hovering around 14v.) (Picture)

View attachment 2381458


Getting back to the original issue of the physical keys not working, that is still there. The buttons on the smart keyfob can unlock/lock it fine but both the physical keys are still not able to unlock the vehicle

Next step would be to take this in to the dealership to find out whats going on. Until then, need to ensure that the battery doesn't fully run out again !

I bet the slotted star rod from the lock isn't in the door actuator slot so the key isn't manually turning the actuator. You can pop off the door panel and get to the actuator. You will also need to pop out the lock which includes prying off the painted cover on the outside and loosen the screws of the lock from the inside. This should allow you to line up the star shaped rod on the lock when you slide it back into the door through the actuator slot.

 

[bloc]

I bet the slotted star rod from the lock isn't in the door actuator slot so the key isn't manually turning the actuator. You can pop off the door panel and get to the actuator. You will also need to pop out the lock which includes prying off the painted cover on the outside and loosen the screws of the lock from the inside. This should allow you to line up the star shaped rod on the lock when you slide it back into the door through the actuator slot.

This sounds very likely to me.

 

[tirewater]

I bet the slotted star rod from the lock isn't in the door actuator slot so the key isn't manually turning the actuator. You can pop off the door panel and get to the actuator. You will also need to pop out the lock which includes prying off the painted cover on the outside and loosen the screws of the lock from the inside. This should allow you to line up the star shaped rod on the lock when you slide it back into the door through the actuator slot.

Sounds like we should all verify if our physical lock works. I don't think I've used mine in nearly four years of ownership.