Drained Battery and can't open door or hood (1 Viewer)

[gaijin]

Sounds like we should all verify if our physical lock works. I don't think I've used mine in nearly four years of ownership.

I was thinking the same thing, so I checked the function of the mechanical key on my 2013 LC200 and found something interesting:

As per the manual, when I turn the key to the right, doors unlock. No problem.

However, the manual says when I turn the key to the left, doors should lock... but... NOTHING HAPPENS!

So, mechanical key unlocks doors fine, but I am unable to lock the doors with the mechanical key.

It's not a big deal - if I want to lock the doors I just open the driver's door, press the door lock button, and close the door - doors locked, no problem.

But, I am curious whether I am the only one to experience this? I purchased my 2013 LC200 new, and no work has ever been done on the door.

Thoughts?

HTH

 

[bloc]

I was thinking the same thing, so I checked the function of the mechanical key on my 2013 LC200 and found something interesting:

As per the manual, when I turn the key to the right, doors unlock. No problem.

However, the manual says when I turn the key to the left, doors should lock... but... NOTHING HAPPENS!

So, mechanical key unlocks doors fine, but I am unable to lock the doors with the mechanical key.

It's not a big deal - if I want to lock the doors I just open the driver's door, press the door lock button, and close the door - doors locked, no problem.

But, I am curious whether I am the only one to experience this? I purchased my 2013 LC200 new, and no work has ever been done on the door.

Thoughts?

HTH

Mine locks as per the manual. 2013 also. A bad microswitch could do this.. it is plausible toyota only baked in the ability to mechanically unlock the door but figured we could use the interior locks if we needed to lock the vehicle without battery power.

I’ll try to figure out whether my locking action is purely electrical or mechanical too. Yes I know I can unhook the battery to confirm but not just yet between fuel trims and halfway through a tank on this trip odo.

 

[atltv]

Problem:
1. No 12v power to operate the smart truck...
2. The one and only mechanical back up entry system inop. (this can be figured out later)
Answer: Get power into the system or find another mechanical devise to gain entry.
I just drilled and tapped my SPC UCA's for grease zerks just recently and remembered there is a wire bundle just in from of the bolt head and in the way when you want to remove the long bolt.

Do you have a pocket knife and a battery charger? Look inside the front left wheel well and behind the front splash guard and you will see a large wire bundle that contains a large gauge wire that comes off the positive terminal of the battery. Remove the fwd splash guard that is in front of the UCA bolt head and then unwrap a portion of the bundle to expose the large gauge wire. Cut into the large wire insulation just enough to not damage the copper wire itself but enough to put a volt meter on it to ck remaining volts for the rest of us. Then clamp on the positive terminal of your battery charger to the exposed copper wire. Find a ground on the frame for the negative lead from the battery charger. Start charging. Wait for it...ok, now try the button.

The cut that was made in the insulation can be sealed up with lots of options to prevent corrosion and then rewrap the wire bundle.

4gotalot,

I'm having the same issue with my '13 after sitting for a few weeks while I was out of town. I took the skid plates off and see this thick gauge wire. Is this what you're talking about?

 

[4gotalot]

4gotalot,

I'm having the same issue with my '13 after sitting for a few weeks while I was out of town. I took the skid plates off and see this thick gauge wire. Is this what you're talking about?

View attachment 2546656

I cannot be sure that is the heavy gauge wire that is on its way to the starter. The location I found access to the cable was inside the front left wheel well. Remove the forward plastic splash guard and you will see the cable that comes off the battery and is directly in line with the long bolt that holds the UCA in place. If you can fallow that copper cable you found in your picture back to the area I described to verify it goes to the battery then, yes.

Clean the out side of the insulation with something like carb cleaner before you cut through it. Keep it clean, then reseal it.

 

[atltv]

I cannot be sure that is the heavy gauge wire that is on its way to the starter. The location I found access to the cable was inside the front left wheel well. Remove the forward plastic splash guard and you will see the cable that comes off the battery and is directly in line with the long bolt that holds the UCA in place. If you can fallow that copper cable you found in your picture back to the area I described to verify it goes to the battery then, yes.

Clean the out side of the insulation with something like carb cleaner before you cut through it. Keep it clean, then reseal it.

Thanks for the clarification, I got the splash guard removed but not seeing the heavy gauge wire. Could you tell me what the UCA is?

 

[scottm]

Sounds like we should all verify if our physical lock works. I don't think I've used mine in nearly four years of ownership.

I tried mine at the dealership! Dealer said he is making me a spare mechanical key. I'm planning to stash the second keyfob inside the truck somewhere, hide the mechanical key outside, I've found a few good hiding places. If I get that third mechanical key, I can cut off the plastic end, so it is easier to hide.

 

[CharlieS]

I tried mine at the dealership! Dealer said he is making me a spare mechanical key. I'm planning to stash the second keyfob inside the truck somewhere, hide the mechanical key outside, I've found a few good hiding places. If I get that third mechanical key, I can cut off the plastic end, so it is easier to hide.

I seem to recall issues with hiding the fob inside the vehicle. Some people have used special bags that block the signal. When I go out into the camping, I usually stash a fob wrapped in foil somewhere so we have a backup (somebody here said foil does the same thing). Maybe poke around with search or somebody might chime in?

 

[CharlieS]

Thanks for the clarification, I got the splash guard removed but not seeing the heavy gauge wire. Could you tell me what the UCA is?

View attachment 2548202

UCA is upper control arm.

 

[bloc]

I seem to recall issues with hiding the fob inside the vehicle. Some people have used special bags that block the signal. When I go out into the camping, I usually stash a fob wrapped in foil somewhere so we have a backup (somebody here said foil does the same thing). Maybe poke around with search or somebody might chime in?

It’s called a faraday bag or pouch. Can be had cheap on amazon, usually has nylon fabric protecting all of it.

 

[KLF]

I seem to recall issues with hiding the fob inside the vehicle. Some people have used special bags that block the signal. When I go out into the camping, I usually stash a fob wrapped in foil somewhere so we have a backup (somebody here said foil does the same thing). Maybe poke around with search or somebody might chime in?

Or just take the battery out.

 

[CharlieS]

Good point. I have used the ToyoMD key fobs so it isn't as trivial as the factory fob to remove the battery (they are screwed together). I can almost guarantee that I would drop a tiny screw or nut.

 

[KLF]

Good point. I have used the ToyoMD key fobs so it isn't as trivial as the factory fob to remove the battery (they are screwed together). I can almost guarantee that I would drop a tiny screw or nut.

Yeah, I have one of his fobs as my primary EDC (love it!), and it's pretty fidgety to deal with those tiny screws, especially with my poor close eyesight. But my spare is the stock fob, much easier.

 

[atltv]

I cannot be sure that is the heavy gauge wire that is on its way to the starter. The location I found access to the cable was inside the front left wheel well. Remove the forward plastic splash guard and you will see the cable that comes off the battery and is directly in line with the long bolt that holds the UCA in place. If you can fallow that copper cable you found in your picture back to the area I described to verify it goes to the battery then, yes.

Clean the out side of the insulation with something like carb cleaner before you cut through it. Keep it clean, then reseal it.

Also, one more question, when you refer to the front "left" wheel well, are you referring to the passenger side? That's the side I removed but didn't see a wire so just wanted to make sure. Thanks again for your insight.

 

[scottm]

I don't know if it is something new for '21, but I can turn "off" my keyfob, and the truck no longer detects it. I just tried it, the truck wouldn't unlock. I used the mechanical key to get in, tried starting it, and it told me to hold the keyfob against the start button, which works on most vehicles when the keyfob battery is dead. That worked to start the truck.

I do have a couple faraday bags, but those will block the Tile attached to my (mechanical) key, so I'm reluctant to use them.
.

.
I put my spare key into battery saving mode, didn't realize it locked my truck in the driveway, with my other key in it. So that was my first test, going inside to get my spare key, and discovering it won't open the truck without hitting the unlock button twice. Once to get it out of battery saving mode, then to unlock.

 

[KLF]

Also, one more question, when you refer to the front "left" wheel well, are you referring to the passenger side? That's the side I removed but didn't see a wire so just wanted to make sure. Thanks again for your insight.

"Left" side is Driver's side. As if you were sitting in the seat.

 

[4gotalot]

Thanks for the clarification, I got the splash guard removed but not seeing the heavy gauge wire. Could you tell me what the UCA is?

View attachment 2548202

PM sent.

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

So, to bring this thread up to a solution, I did.

This year I got back to work and am usually gone for months at a time. This time it was 9 months.
Therefore I decided to disconnect the battery and lock the cruiser for it's long hibernation. (from a prior attempt I know the physical key worked.)

Well, I get back home and tried to unlock the cruiser with the physical key and it wouldn't work. The key would not work in either direction.
Crap, what to do!!!
With the hood closed I could not open it and reconnect the battery.

Solution:
I took the bottom engine plates off the cruiser.
I reached my hand up into the hood lock area and felt around as well a visual for where the cable is.
I found a small cover that needs to be altered so that I could get a hand on the cable.
I pulled with some force and the hood popped open.
Reconnected the battery and the fob worked to unlock the door.

Notes:
I couldn't finger my way up to the mechanism (lever) that pulls on the cable to unlock.
I did crack the plastic cover shield for the lock mechanism but reconnected all the bolts I took out.

PM if you need any help or a walk through on this procedure.

Jim

 

[bloc]

So, to bring this thread up to a solution, I did.

This year I got back to work and am usually gone for months at a time. This time it was 9 months.
Therefore I decided to disconnect the battery and lock the cruiser for it's long hibernation. (from a prior attempt I know the physical key worked.)

Well, I get back home and tried to unlock the cruiser with the physical key and it wouldn't work. The key would not work in either direction.
Crap, what to do!!!
With the hood closed I could not open it and reconnect the battery.

Solution:
I took the bottom engine plates off the cruiser.
I reached my hand up into the hood lock area and felt around as well a visual for where the cable is.
I found a small cover that needs to be altered so that I could get a hand on the cable.
I pulled with some force and the hood popped open.
Reconnected the battery and the fob worked to unlock the door.

Notes:
I couldn't finger my way up to the mechanism (lever) that pulls on the cable to unlock.
I did crack the plastic cover shield for the lock mechanism but reconnected all the bolts I took out.

PM if you need any help or a walk through on this procedure.

Jim

Does your physical key work now that the battery is connected?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

Does your physical key work now that the battery is connected?

No. I didn't have time to troubleshoot as I'm back on the road. Will be home on Nov 19th and I plan to update this issue.

I have the FSM for the 200 and I have been studying it. There's no mention of a troubleshoot if the battery in dead and the physical key does not work.

 

[bloc]

No. I didn't have time to troubleshoot as I'm back on the road. Will be home on Nov 19th and I plan to update this issue.

I have the FSM for the 200 and I have been studying it. There's no mention of a troubleshoot if the battery in dead and the physical key does not work.

When you say it won’t work, will it turn but not do anything? Or won’t turn at all?

Seems like there have been a number of reports of the physical key turning but not actually unlocking the door. My understanding was it is a physical linkage, but starting to wonder if that is correct.