Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions (8 Viewers)

[Bear80]

Hey Ben,

Remember that with the rear 4 link you are dealing with a rectangle (as viewed from the side). As the rear (axle side) of the rectangle moves down, the line formed between the rear points of the control arms stays primarily vertical . That line also happens to be perpendicular to the diff pinion. What that means is that as you lift the vehicle the diff pinion continues, for the most part, to point forward and below the t-case pinion. If you lengthen the upper control arms it will point the diff pinion back up at the t-case. That means you have little pinion angle to deal with at the diff and you have effectively reduced the angle at the t-case as well. So long as your stock drive shaft is in good shape it should be able to cope with the angle unless you are going over 6" of lift. There is only so much angle the shaft can handle, as you pointed out. If you were going over 6" you should still rotate the axle up to zero out the diff pinion angle. Somebody correct me if I'm wrong. It has been a loooong time since I took geometry.

Don't sweat an argument, you've got good points! I agree that the 4 link should move in a rectangle as the axle moves down. I made my assesment because looking at my pinion with no upper arm adjustments the pinion is facing up towards the t-case. If the rectangle holds true my pinion should still be facing foward but it's not, which is why I concluded the axle must move in an arch. I also put in upper arm drop brackets, which in essence shortened the arms. The pinion angle then got closer to the t-case angle and my noise got quieter.

I also agree that I'm no expert and no geomety wiz so maybe Slee can step in here. Though I know for sure my rear shaft grrs and vibrates so I need at least a DC shaft, if not also the adjusters.

 

[Bear80]

I'll update this for the rear shaft. A possible solution to the problem of the rear 4runner's bolt pattern/size not matching the pattern on the LC's diff is to use a new multi drilled flang. These flanges are sold to be used on older LC's when they are re-geared with the 27 spline pinions. Only problem here is that the crush sleeve in the diff is compromised and technically the diff should be pulled out to re-crush a new sleeve. Never the less this is a possible solution.

 

[heckler]

I took a Tundra shaft (same as the one in your first post) to a driveshaft shop today and the guy told me that it cant be shortened nor the put on the original LC shaft. He explained that the Tundra shaft is not welded and that it is fused (sounds very technical we he said it in his sounthern accent). I dont really know what I asking because it can obviously be done. Has anybody else had an experience like this?

Oh and he tried to tell me that is was probably vibrating because it is out of phase, so I had to explain that to him. Then he said he had a bunch of mini trucks that he take one off of, I hate car places and i wish I could do this project myself.

 

[landtank]

I've only modified Tacoma shafts and they are a slam dunk. When I looked at a Tundra it just didn't look the same to me.

Go to car-part.com, type on 2001 Tacoma, rear drive shaft and your zip code. On the next screen ANY configuration that is extended cab or double cab will work. So the top 15 or so listings are possibilities and any year on the subsequent list will work as well. So go down the list, you should find one close by for around 100.00, 150.00 if you want a newer one.

 

[Bear80]

Well unless the slip yoke or something of another is bad, just cut the Tundra shaft down to length and get rid of the balloon tube. You'd only need to use the original slipe yoke on the front shaft if the Tundra's was bad. I for one actually didn't have my front slip yoke re-used but was told by the shop it could be done just as it had to be for the rear shaft. They made no mention of the different fitment (weld vs. whatever). The shop I did the work with is excellent. Infact the very first time I walked in there the guy knew it was a Toyota LC shaft from the large front u-joints and super large rear u-joints. He also knew right away about the broke-back configuration requiring a 90* out of phase shaft.

 

[heckler]

Landtank, Unfortunately I already invested money into the Tundra shaft so I am not really looking into buying another driveshaft. If I had to do it again I would probably stick to the Tacoma option.

Bear80, I tried to get him to just retube and shorten the Tundra shaft, but he said he could not do that either, because it was "fused". I wish there was a driveshop here like yours. When I went in today that said, "what in the hell did that come out of" and they have never heard of a driveshaft being out of phase. I think I am going to find another place to tackle this.

If it is not to much trouble is there anyway you could post a picture of your finished Tundra shaft.

Thanks for all the help. Great thread, but kind of hard to find because of the different ways people spell Cardan or Cardon or Carden (now this thread should show up when people search with different spellings).

 

[Bear80]

Thanks for reminding me that I need to add after pics. I'll try and get some when I get back or either have the house setter get under the truck.

 

[4x4CPOSEADOG]

Ben,

Do you think I can use the double cardan rear driveshaft from 4runner to replace the 80's front driveshaft? Will the flanges bolt right up to the t-case/front diff without modification other than shortening the tube?

 

[Bear80]

Ben,

Do you think I can use the double cardan rear driveshaft from 4runner to replace the 80's front driveshaft? Will the flanges bolt right up to the t-case/front diff without modification other than shortening the tube?

The bolts and bolt patterns are larger on the LC's rear. The 4runner shaft's flang at the DC joint matches the rear LC's only. However, it is the 4runner's slipe yoke end that matchs the bolt and bolt pattern of the LC's front.

The only match is either the Tacoma or Tundra shaft for the front of the LC. The only match for the rear is the 4runner shaft with a multi-drilled flange put on the rear 3rd or the slip yoke end of the LC's rear shaft matted on the 4runner's shaft. Just to keep in mind that the hilux (mini) truck DC joints and the 60 series DC joints both DO NOT match either end of the LC's t-case.

 

[treehugger]

were is the after pics ben ?

 

[450 DUDE]

Just reviving the dead here..
Any more info on the Tundra shafts?

Bear80 Report ? Pics ?

Thanks in advance,
ken

 

[Sanchez]

I'm interested on the pictures also.

Thanks

 

[cool breeze]

I found a ext. cab taco ds with 20k miles for $150, not too bad i think, although 20k seems TOO good. So now im gonna take it to the DS shop to shorten it. Whats a fair price? BTW this is to make the front ds.

Also what other specs/options do i need to give them? Do i have it cut to be the same length as the stocker? Any info is appreciated, im a DS newb...

 

[landtank]

you want a compressed length flange to flange of 32". I pay around 100.00 for this work and it includes a high speed balance. But we are limited to how many shops can do this so it might be on the high side.

 

[cool breeze]

Thanks for the info. Just got off the phone with the ds shop here in town and they quoted $144 for shorten/retube using a 83 wall(?) tube. I asked if it would be a stronger tube than stock and he said the thing with toyota's ds is that they're tapered and can only do so much with a retube...?..

Tom Woods gave me a price of $379 shipped for a HD piece using gold seal 1310 uj's, a .120 wall dom tubing, 180 day workmanship/ lifetime breakage warranty( uj AND damage done to ds). This seems well worth the extra $80 if im already at $300 trying to use a taco ds. Is anyone running one of their pieces on an 80?

 

[landtank]

the front ds is up out of the way and I personally don't think you need to worry about beefing it up. The real problem with these DS is the DC component. Using the Taco shaft IMO is the best option out there.

 

[ba450]

The local salvage yards are asking $150 for any DS. If it is another $150 to get the work done, why is it worth it to have a Frankenstein DS for $300 vs. getting the Slee DC for another $115. I am in Colorado not to far from Slee though. I would think a DS made from scratch would be stronger than a Frankenstein one?... Or is it worth it to save $115?

 

[Lugboot]

You can also resell part of the Taco DS that you don't need. I paid about $150 for the Taco DS and then sold the half I didn't need for $80.

I did the Taco route primarily for the Toyota DC component, like Landtank said.

 

[ba450]

Good to know didn't think of that. Thanks! I still question the strength of Frankenstein?...

 

[Beowulf]

... why is it worth it to have a Frankenstein DS for $300 vs. getting the Slee DC for another $115.

There have been quality issues and durability issues with the Slee DC front shafts. They use Spicer joints and the Spicer DC is very difficult to properly lube that DS on the truck. I removed mine to lube it the last time (was doing a regear). It is due for another and I am going to try to do it without removing it. Slee recommends lubing the DC DS every 3,000 miles.

The Koyo DC used on the Taco shafts is well made and easy to lube.

-B-