Dome light operation (1 Viewer)

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Awesome. I can clearly see the red/yellow, but can't the red/blue. But they were both in the same connector? Thanks again, these pictures are worth a million words to me

The red blue wire has the red butt connectors running along the bottom of the picture with the paper clip. They both go into the same connector.
 
Saw this mod and jumped in. It should be noted that BOTH rear dome lights are activated if any door or the rear hatch is opened.

Thanks to @landcrshr for identifying the wire location and color combos!

You will need a small piece, about 3 inches, of 16-18 gauge wire.

Step 1: Remove driver side kick panel to expose the A-Pillar.

A Pillar arrows.jpg


Step 2: Pull the 6 pin connector out of the A-Pillar. Mine has 6 pins but only 5 were being used.

6 Pin Dome Cluster arrows.jpg



Step 3: Identify the Red/Yellow and Red/Blue wires. Jumper these two wires together.

There are a lot of ways to do this. I used a razor blade and carefully shaved off about 1/8-1/4 inch of insulation. Be careful as to not cut any of the actual wires.

Red-Blue and Red-Yellow arrows.jpg




Razor Blade Technique arrows v1.jpg



Step 4: Connect the two wires. See the yellow insulated wire in the photo. Solder the two connections and wrap in electrical tape (or shrink wrap)

jumped arrows.jpg
 
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Step 5: Tuck wires and connectors back into the A-Pillar

IMG_3756.JPG


I tested it prior to wrapping everything up. Both rear dome lights come on if any door or the rear hatch is opened.

Driver Door Open.JPG


Enjoy the light!
 
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Awesome. Now is there an easy way to get the map light to turn on with the front doors? I've seen a thread where a wire was run above the headliner but I am hoping for a kick panel mod like this.
 
Awesome. Now is there an easy way to get the map light to turn on with the front doors? I've seen a thread where a wire was run above the headliner but I am hoping for a kick panel mod like this.

There's no easy way to do this, the map light's positive lead is switched (vs. the negative side like the other lights). You'd have to dig into the light assembly and modify it somehow.

Edit: There is no wire to tap into.
 
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Yeah. Now that I see the other posters pics... Mine looked like it got hacked to bits. My 6 pin was already hanging out of the a pillar!

Well, that's one of the reasons we don't like others messing with our trucks. I'm sure with a little bit of time and some soldering skills you could clean it up. Then again...if it ain't broke...don't fix it! Well, unless you're addicted to your cruiser like most here are ;)!
 
If you have the factory alarm, there will be a TEE-harness tapped into that 6-pin connector.

I would use those wires to splice together, leaving the original wiring unmolested.

So is there a way to jump these together without cutting/splicing the factory harness?
 
So is there a way to jump these together without cutting/splicing the factory harness?
I think thedoughboy's method was minimally invasive, he didn't actually cut any wires.

You could also make your own "T" using the same connectors from a donor vehicle, but that's a lot more work.
 
Brilliant fix. I hate that they don't both come on.
 
So, just asking from the couch to maybe save a few minutes before i get around to doing this: if that particular bundle of wires is in the drivers side kick panel, that would probably still be on the left side (passenger) in a RHD vehicle, right?

edit - Yeah, took about 5 minutes, including warming up the soldering iron. It's on the left hand side of an RHD vehicle, if anyone cares, although to be honest I feel lazy and dumb for even asking in the first place.

Awesome mod, though. Thanks @thedoughboy
 
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That is so stupid simple...going to be done when I get home on Thursday!!!
 
I hate these, but a Scotch-Lock could make that about a 5 min. job. :meh:

original_Scotchlok_tap_connector-thumb-465xauto-8489.jpg
 
I hate these, but a Scotch-Lock could make that about a 5 min. job. :meh:

View attachment 1349258

I HATE Scotch-Locks too... but they would work. Not that these t-taps are much better, but they at least give the option to disconnect without disassembly.

T-TAP%20CONNECTORS.jpg
 

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