Does anyone make taller high steer arms anymore?

[EWheeler]

No, Im not married to them. You know how it is with springs, I asked for stock length but flatter because I knew it would be tall. That's what showed up, Slightly less arch than stock but still a lot of arch.
Fortunately nothing is fully welded so it'll be easy to swap things around

Consider removing a couple leafs maybe? If it ends up too low, you can add back in incrementally to achieve desired ride height. If they are far too soft, you know what your target is for height and free arch length. Alternately, grab some stock springs and use them to set everything up. Play with the Alcans after you get it on the road. Stock springs in spring over arrangement are more than enough lift to run 35’s…..

Shame to just toss those springs. But i dont think youll end up where you want shackle reversed and spring overed with those bad boys.

 

[cruisermatt]

I think you need to make a full build thread for this puppy. Aluminum troppy with a SOA? going to be awesome once it's dialed in.

 

[EWheeler]

Some inspiration and maybe some fab/design ideas here….

Builds - FJ45 Custom Troopy build

This is going to be backwards seeing that the LC is already done. I had always meant to do this earlier just could never find the time. So here it goes. Over the next few weeks I am going to try and add photos and info concerning the build. Hope you all enjoy. Cheers -Tim Below is the finish...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jeffro42]

I think you need to make a full build thread for this puppy. Aluminum troppy with a SOA? going to be awesome once it'qualu.

Deleted because reading and comprehension doesn't seem to be the strong suit of some of the members...

 

[Pighead]

This project has been in the works for a long long time. I've been sourcing parts for almost 3 years.

In LandCruiser projects, 3 years is not a long long time. Sorry.

 

[EWheeler]

In LandCruiser projects, 3 years is not a long long time. Sorry.

Such an insightful and on topic contribution to the thread, thank you.

 

[snaggletto]

Maybe lower the front spring hangers and raise the rear shackle by mounting it through the frame rather than under it as shown earlier. A quick mock up should show whether this change in spring angle will help or not before you bail on those springs. Good luck.

 

[Mike Shull]

Someone probably mentioned this already but have you checked your caster? I used All Pro high steer arms bolted to mini truck knuckles for about 20+ years and the tie rod was about 1” above the springs. My caster was set at +2°.

Side note: I also ran Alcan Springs for that period and those springs were amazing. And they are still going on another Cruiser.

 

[cruisermatt]

Someone probably mentioned this already but have you checked your caster? I used All Pro high steer arms that were flat and bolted to mini truck knuckles for about 20+ years and the tie rod was about 2” above the springs. My caster was set at +4°.

Did you read his original post?

 

[Mike Shull]

Did you read his original post?

Oops. I thought I did but I must have started on page two. 10-12° is pretty steep and I wonder if the perches on top of the axle are too high? I’ll stop posting until I have practiced critical reading.

 

[Mike Shull]

If it helps here are a few pictures for comparison. One taken with unsprung weight. I don’t think that your axle perches are too high. Keep working at it. This is a very cool build.

Update: After taking a closer look at my pictures it looks like I used heim joint spacers to clear the springs.

 

[jeffro42]

If it helps here are a few pictures for comparison. One taken with unsprung weight. I don’t think that your axle perches are too high. Keep working at it. This is a very cool build.

Update: After taking a closer look at my pictures it looks like I used heim joint spacers to clear the springs.

View attachment 3677292

View attachment 3677293

A heim joints with a spacer may be an option. I'm going to flip the shackle to the front tomorrow and then see if I need to redo the perch. I'm guessing that's what's going to have to happen, but oh well.

 

[EWheeler]

A heim joints with a spacer may be an option. I'm going to flip the shackle to the front tomorrow and then see if I need to redo the perch. I'm guessing that's what's going to have to happen, but oh well.

Just spit balling. Maybe if you go with different tie rod ends it would give you the clearance you need (after fixing the shackle/spring eye level issues first), 1ton tie rod ends? You would have to get the arms re-tapered, but may be far less work than lowering spring perches. I think you’ll be in a much better situation flipping the spring mounting arrangement around.

One consideration doing this is if your second leaf in the pack has a military eye wrap on it. This is supposed to go on the static end, and keeps things from going absolutely catastrophic in the event of a main leaf failure. Keep that in mind. And, if you just flip your springs around it may change your wheel base…...

 

[Mark W]

This is what i ended up with, and emberrasingly it has been off the road for a long time and not yet trail tested….
View attachment 3676286

Your clearance is not gonna work. Any compression of that spring and the shackle/spring is gonna hit the frame. Before the spring goes full flat.

Mark...

 

[Mark W]

I'm currently doing a Spring over and shackle reversal project on a 40 series.

You need to, at the very least, revisit the way you have done this SR. Personally I am not a fan of SRs, but that is beside the point here. You need to do away with that shackle mount thing you have going on and get the shackle end of the spring a lot closer to the frame. Like maybe a mile and a half closer. If you want to do a SR, you need to have the upper shackle pin going through the frame.

You have the military wrap on the shackle end of the spring. It is completely pointless there. You have eliminated its function. You need to rotate this leaf so that the mil-wrap is at the frame end of the spring.

You do not need "taller" knuckle arms. You need to fix the "engineering" of your conversion.

Mark...

 

[bikersmurf]

In LandCruiser projects, 3 years is not a long long time. Sorry.

X100

I fairly recently did my P/S conversion. I’d had the pitman arm since ‘96 and the Scout II steering box for 10+ years.

Not to mention my rolling restomod that started in ‘91. It took more than 5 years to get my new rear bench seat in. And 12 years to swap in the front 3.70 diff to match the rear so that I could use 4wd again. I can’t remember how many years ago I bought a new wiring harness… it was more than 18 years ago that my parking light circuit failed and I ran a jumper to the back as a temporary measure… which prompted me to buy the new harness. Hopefully I get the TPI installed while gas is still readily accessible.

So 3 years doesn’t seem so long to me.

 

[Mike Shull]

You need to, at the very least, revisit the way you have done this SR. Personally I am not a fan of SRs, but that is beside the point here. You need to do away with that shackle mount thing you have going on and get the shackle end of the spring a lot closer to the frame. Like maybe a mile and a half closer. If you want to do a SR, you need to have the upper shackle pin going through the frame.

You have the military wrap on the shackle end of the spring. It is completely pointless there. You have eliminated its function. You need to rotate this leaf so that the mil-wrap is at the frame end of the spring.

You do not need "taller" knuckle arms. You need to fix the "engineering" of your conversion.

Mark...

I agree with Mark about getting the upper shackle reversal bolt inside of the frame. Aqualu may not want you to do this but it will be the most stable and help with your geometry.

Something else to note is that I had my Alcan springs shaped specifically for my shackle reversal and I could not run my springs backwards because doing so messed up my geometry.

 

[EWheeler]

Your clearance is not gonna work. Any compression of that spring and the shackle/spring is gonna hit the frame. Before the spring goes full flat.

Mark...

Mark, I did plan on making slightly longer shackles to account for bushing flex in use, but I set this up with a spare main leaf removed from the pack flexed flat with 1/4" plate between the spring eye and the frame.

 

[SNLC]

Builds - 1967 FJ45LPB resto-mod 1HDFT H55 build

New build just showed up at the shop. This is going to be a fun one! I just looked it over pretty quick, seems pretty much all original. Been painted before, not the best job. Rust, rot and bondo doesn’t seem to terrible. Transmission is not happy at all nor is the engine. Carb is in bad...

forum.ih8mud.com

You can see how we did it in that thread. It’s about as low as you can go SoA and still have up travel.

Cheers

 

[peesalot]

For the frame end, I see your springs are outboarded a bit. You could holesaw a tube into the frame right at the bottom and use a toyota minitruck offset shackle, that would be clean and solve the issue, just a suggestion.