Does anyone make taller high steer arms anymore?

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Joined
Dec 9, 2021
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Location
Boston Ma
I'm currently doing a Spring over and shackle reversal project on a 40 series.
I have a set of trail gear high steer arms, and another set of high steer arms I got used (unknown make)
I'm doing a cut and turn, but the problem is they aren't tall enough with the shackle reversal.
With the caster where I want it, the tie rod and drag link contact the spring.
If I turn the knuckle up to where they clear, the caster is way out of spec (10-12 degrees)
Does anyone make a tall set of arm, or does anyone make a custom arm that is not crazy expensive?
I know they used to be available but I can't find anything.
I'm debating on going back to stock shackle but I'd rather not do that...
Thanks in advance!
 
I'm currently doing a Spring over and shackle reversal project on a 40 series.
I have a set of trail gear high steer arms, and another set of high steer arms I got used (unknown make)
I'm doing a cut and turn, but the problem is they aren't tall enough with the shackle reversal.
With the caster where I want it, the tie rod and drag link contact the spring.
If I turn the knuckle up to where they clear, the caster is way out of spec (10-12 degrees)
Does anyone make a tall set of arm, or does anyone make a custom arm that is not crazy expensive?
I know they used to be available but I can't find anything.
I'm debating on going back to stock shackle but I'd rather not do that...
Thanks in advance!
Btw, the springs are Alcan custom with roughly a stock fj40 arch...
 
Does anyone make a tall set of arm, or does anyone make a custom arm that is not crazy expensive?
Luke, at 4x4 Labs, used to make his own arms and even some custom arms, from what I hear. I'm running his Hi-Steer on a SOA FJ55. I guess it's 20 years old or so.
He was never super easy to get ahold of, or super fast or super cheap but he knew what he was doing and made good stuff.

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I'm currently doing a Spring over and shackle reversal project on a 40 series.
I have a set of trail gear high steer arms, and another set of high steer arms I got used (unknown make)
I'm doing a cut and turn, but the problem is they aren't tall enough with the shackle reversal.
With the caster where I want it, the tie rod and drag link contact the spring.
If I turn the knuckle up to where they clear, the caster is way out of spec (10-12 degrees)
Does anyone make a tall set of arm, or does anyone make a custom arm that is not crazy expensive?
I know they used to be available but I can't find anything.
I'm debating on going back to stock shackle but I'd rather not do that...
Thanks in advance!
Post some photos. I am assuming you're mounting the tie rod on top of the arms? Based on the photos above from another member, seems you should have a ton of clearance with the standard high steer arm rise height. I have a set of Lukes 4x4 labs arms that have the tie rod behind the axle and drag link in front. When I did my SOA and front suspension work, I did have to have him bend my arms for a bit more spring to tie rod clearance. Don't have any photos handy unfortunately.
 
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Not great pictures, but you can see the circle in blue, I have a spacer in there for mock up, just to see how much clearance I'd need. even with that it is touching the spring.
I sent Luke at 4x4 labs a message, we'll see if he replies!

PXL_20240412_133622068.jpg
 
View attachment 3676115
Not great pictures, but you can see the circle in blue, I have a spacer in there for mock up, just to see how much clearance I'd need. even with that it is touching the spring.
I sent Luke at 4x4 labs a message, we'll see if he replies!

View attachment 3676117
You have no weight on those springs. You may run into clearance issues on full droop depending on shock length. I would move forward, finish your build and revisit.

One resolution could be to build lower profile spring perches. Could possibly gain 1/2" of clearance there. Probably not what you want to hear, but custom build with builder parts usually take a lot of trial and error. Again, finish the buildout, revisit suspension once all the weight is on the chassis. Then you can set pinion angle and caster.

Without knowing more about your build, what made you put the shackle hanger below the frame, and not through the frame? I did a shackle reversal with shackle hanger under frame initially because I outboarded my leafs to work with FJ60 axles, and that seemed like a better solution than some kind of offset shackle arrangement. Well, I ended up re-doing the front suspension due to a negative rake.....you can kind of see my previous setup in my incomplete build thread from over a decade ago on this other site:



Side bar - Is that an Aqualu frame?
 
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There wasn't any weight in the pic, but the engine/ trans were in on initial setup.
It is an aqualu frame and body. (they don't recommend drilling holes in the frame, and, like you, I did fj60 axles which have to be outboarded)
I already cut off the mount and went with a much lower profile one trying to gain some clearance, but the angles still aren't where I want them.
I'm moving forward with the rest of the build, but right now it looks like the solution is either undo the shackle reversal, or find taller arms :/
 
Even with no weight that is way too light of a shackle angle. Do you realize with that shackle reverse set up the way you have it, this truck is going to be REALLY tall?
 
Even with no weight that is way too light of a shackle angle. Do you realize with that shackle reverse set up the way you have it, this truck is going to be REALLY tall?
The rear mount was replaced with a lower profile one and moved to a better position after the pic was taken, but yes, it will be tall, but not out of proportion for what it is. You can see the rear shackle is at a similar angle, those mounts came attached to the frame from aqualu

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I think youre going to fight the rearward angle of those front springs in your quest to balance tie rod clearance, ride height, caster, and pinion angle. I would remove some leaves until you get the truck on the road and dial in ride height. It is possible the only way to get everything to work is to put the shackle up from so the spring is as “flat” as possible at ride height. When i say flat, im talking spring eye height relative to each other, because those springs obviously arent flat.
 
This is what i ended up with, and emberrasingly it has been off the road for a long time and not yet trail tested….
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Yep, that is your entire problem, you have the springs canted back to far. That is going to drive and ride weird too since the axle is going to move really far backwards under bump. You really want the springs to be level. If you like that ride height I would go shackle forwards.

As for the angle, I would still change either the shackle hanger location or go 2-3” longer springs. It makes a huge difference in not only ride quality but having actual control of the vehicle vs it being a pogo stick
 
To answer your original question, no, no one makes taller high-steer arms, but this is the reason why.
 
I think youre going to fight the rearward angle of those front springs in your quest to balance tie rod clearance, ride height, caster, and pinion angle. I would remove some leaves until you get the truck on the road and dial in ride height. It is possible the only way to get everything to work is to put the shackle up from so the spring is as “flat” as possible at ride height. When i say flat, im talking spring eye height relative to each other, because those springs obviously arent flat.
Agreed, and thank you for the input! This is not my first build, but admittedly, most of the others have been mostly off road. I'm trying to build something that will be comfortable to tour in, yet capable when it needs to be. I think the best solution is to just go back to stock shackle location
 
Yep, that is your entire problem, you have the springs canted back to far. That is going to drive and ride weird too since the axle is going to move really far backwards under bump. You really want the springs to be level. If you like that ride height I would go shackle forwards.

As for the angle, I would still change either the shackle hanger location or go 2-3” longer springs. It makes a huge difference in not only ride quality but having actual control of the vehicle vs it being a pogo stick
Thanks Matt, and yes, I agree... It sucks to spend $$$ on custom springs that you think will do what you want and not have them work but it is what it is. When I initially did this, I went back and forth but ultimately decided to do the shackle reversal, in hind sight, probably should have left it alone. I'm just going to cut everything off and go back to stock shackle location and go from there.
I've done shackle reversals on 2 other trucks, but they were primarily off road where the angles and ride didn't matter so much. again, thank you for the input!
 
Agreed, and thank you for the input! This is not my first build, but admittedly, most of the others have been mostly off road. I'm trying to build something that will be comfortable to tour in, yet capable when it needs to be. I think the best solution is to just go back to stock shackle location
Are you positive those springs are the ones you are going to live with on this truck? They seem highly arched for a spring over setup. Before going through all the work of cutting off and starting over, id make sure the springs used for setup are for sure the ones.
 
Are you positive those springs are the ones you are going to live with on this truck? They seem highly arched for a spring over setup. Before going through all the work of cutting off and starting over, id make sure the springs used for setup are for sure the ones.
No, Im not married to them. You know how it is with springs, I asked for stock length but flatter because I knew it would be tall. That's what showed up, Slightly less arch than stock but still a lot of arch.
Fortunately nothing is fully welded so it'll be easy to swap things around
 

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