does anybody have writeup for intake and exhaust manifold gasket replacement? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter e36m3s50
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1. Not that hard.
2. My tip to you is to go slow. I went fast the first time and broke stuff, and put it back together like 3 times- because I kept doing things in the wrong order. The slower you go, and the more you pause to look at what you are doing (the first time) the more likely you are to do it right.
3. Longer than you think. Especially the first time.
I am doing the same thing right now on our (the wife will read this) rig and it is going along nice and smooth.
- Thread starter
- #3
my plan is using masking tape and marker to mark every vaccum hose. Will 2 days enough to do this?
Jobs like this can take a life of their own because there are other things that will be easily accessible during the teardown. Carb? Smog/Desmog?, those pesky back heater hoses?, leaky power steering pump? etc. Like the man said, take your time, use the PB blaster ahead of time. There are a lot of rusted tight fittings and bolts. Got a torque wrench.?.you will want one.
Oh. FelPro gasket. Read the threads about using 2 gaskets instead of one. The community appears to be evenly split on whether this is a good idea or not. New manifold set from Cruiser Dan is about $600 if yours is too warped. Or, get a good used one. If not warped bad, you can get a knowledgeable machinist to plane the warp out.
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- #6
So I should use double gasket just incase my manifold is warp?
Is there a thread on desmogged? Any pros/cons on this?
Many, many threads on desmog.
The long and short is, if the smog crap works - leave it alone
If it's broke, and your state doesn't do a smog test - yank it out of there (IMOP)
I'm in the middle of desmogging mine, mostly done, just tying up the loose ends, I"ve started a thread on here somewhere that I have to update. It's really pretty simple when you get into it.
Are you sure that it is your manifold gasket - the j-pipe on the egr is notorious for leaking (from what I've read), might want to check that out before you get to far. It would suck to do all that work and still have the same problem when it got put back together.
The long and short is, if the smog crap works - leave it alone
If it's broke, and your state doesn't do a smog test - yank it out of there (IMOP)
I'm in the middle of desmogging mine, mostly done, just tying up the loose ends, I"ve started a thread on here somewhere that I have to update. It's really pretty simple when you get into it.
Are you sure that it is your manifold gasket - the j-pipe on the egr is notorious for leaking (from what I've read), might want to check that out before you get to far. It would suck to do all that work and still have the same problem when it got put back together.
same diagnosis
I just received the same diagnosis - need a new intake/exhaust manifold gasket - on my 87 fj60 and am debating doing the work myself or having a local shop do it. I just got the vehicle in september and haven't had a chance to really snoop around under the hood to check it all out so I am eager to do a project but fearful that this project might be a tough first project to do on a truck I don't know too much about. Are their other things worth replacing or updating while the manifold is off or tools and cleaners that are a must that I need to have around before I start in on the work? Thanks for letting me tag along to your post.
I just received the same diagnosis - need a new intake/exhaust manifold gasket - on my 87 fj60 and am debating doing the work myself or having a local shop do it. I just got the vehicle in september and haven't had a chance to really snoop around under the hood to check it all out so I am eager to do a project but fearful that this project might be a tough first project to do on a truck I don't know too much about. Are their other things worth replacing or updating while the manifold is off or tools and cleaners that are a must that I need to have around before I start in on the work? Thanks for letting me tag along to your post.
There is an excellent write up in the FSM.
It is a real learning experience, but all 60 owners should do this at least once. It creates many real bonding moments with your truck. If you can spin a wrench you can do this job.
Dynosoar
It is a real learning experience, but all 60 owners should do this at least once. It creates many real bonding moments with your truck. If you can spin a wrench you can do this job. Dynosoar
This is very obvious, but be very careful working with the intake manifold. I replaced the gasket on mine this summer and during the reassembly unknowingly dropped a lock washer into the intake. So, my afternoon project turned into a two-day head project. I got very lucky and didn't sustain any major piston or valve damage. Made a hell of a sound when I first started it up.
Ray
Ray
I've got some sort of exhaust leak that I need to fix, and have been planning on digging in to all this. My first thought is to get some vacuum and heater and fuel hoses. Many of these things haven't been touched in years and won't come off easily or at all.
The second issue is that back nut on the air rail... It's under the lifting hook and behind a water pipe and seems nearly impossible to reach. I will probably have to modify (torch+bend) a box end wrench to fit in there. You can sort of get a wrench on it as is, but not very well.
I also noticed that back nut is loose. Will a loose nut on the air rail make a noise similar to an exhaust leak?
The second issue is that back nut on the air rail... It's under the lifting hook and behind a water pipe and seems nearly impossible to reach. I will probably have to modify (torch+bend) a box end wrench to fit in there. You can sort of get a wrench on it as is, but not very well.
I also noticed that back nut is loose. Will a loose nut on the air rail make a noise similar to an exhaust leak?
If you hurry and rush through it you will break more little nipples and connectore and forget how the hoses go back on which nipples etc.
Take your time and allow a full afternoon to do it.
Take your time and allow a full afternoon to do it.
JeffJ60
Carb-loading since the 80's.
Ditto on the exhaust leak... Winter project for me (my 60 will NOT get salted and rust in Ohio!) so I am watching this thread closely as well. I think a write up with pictures would have excellent application for a lot of people (including me) so if nobody posts with one, I will document the process entirely and take lots of pics. Chances are that this forum will give great advice during the project.
I have a new (to me) AI rail en route and am looking to contact Cruiser Dan for several additional parts... I am new to my 60 as well, so there should be no shortage of blunders.
Suspension goes in this weekend. Exhaust is late December.
I have a new (to me) AI rail en route and am looking to contact Cruiser Dan for several additional parts... I am new to my 60 as well, so there should be no shortage of blunders.
Suspension goes in this weekend. Exhaust is late December.
I have exhaust soon too. Also probably end of the month. It is crazy expensive to have someone do it for you. Not sure I am ready to tackle it myself though.
I thought about putting a small (very small )bead of high temp silicone on the intake/exhaust side of the gasket and let it dry for a couple of days then install with the small build up of silicone will take up any warpage and seal better and doing it when the silicone is dry will keep everything cleaner.
The newer engine gaskets come like this so they must know it works.
Just a thought.
The newer engine gaskets come like this so they must know it works.
Just a thought.
Here is my attempt at a write-up from when I did my manifolds. Has kinda-right torque diagram as well.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=57153
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=57153
JeffJ60
Carb-loading since the 80's.
Wow... very helpful - Thanks! I plan on doing my manifolds and such this winter when I can take my time, breath deeply, relax, label the hell out of everything, make thousands of drawings, and stockpile the 
as a wrench-lubricant. I will photo-document appropriately.
Thanks again!
Oh, does anyone think THIS might be an issue?!?
I sprayed it with soap-water and saw a stream of bubbles! Elbert hooked me up with a used one that looks MUCH better. I just gotta sack-up and give it a shot. Newbie-nerves and all...
THANK (insert preferred diety here) FOR THIS FORUM!
as a wrench-lubricant. I will photo-document appropriately. Thanks again!
Oh, does anyone think THIS might be an issue?!?
I sprayed it with soap-water and saw a stream of bubbles! Elbert hooked me up with a used one that looks MUCH better. I just gotta sack-up and give it a shot. Newbie-nerves and all...
THANK (insert preferred diety here) FOR THIS FORUM!
i love reviving cool threads... Any one of you get the pics/documentation for yours? Thinking of tackling this one myself instead of $ to a shop. bonding etc...
I've had it done once on this truck, so think nothing should be stuck too bad. To double gasket or not...that is the question. Also - Felpro - Napa or ??
thanks!
rob
I've had it done once on this truck, so think nothing should be stuck too bad. To double gasket or not...that is the question. Also - Felpro - Napa or ??
thanks!
rob
There is considerable satisfaction when exhaust leaks are quieted, but there are a couple of things I've learned along the way that can assure the job will be done completely. Besides the dismantling and labeling of parts, you can only expect good results if the parts you put back together are sound. It is foolish to do this time-consuming, often frustrating job and try to do it on the cheap, unless you have the time and inclination to repeat your effort. It would be like using cheap paint after meticulous surface preparation.
The mainifolds need to be machined together and any replaceable parts in the horns replaced. Further, the heat riser shaft and bushing, if worn, can be a source for a leak that does not want to go away. There is also a cap at the end of the heat riser shaft that plugs that end of the shaft. The shaft and bushing are no longer available; the cap is, but does not seem to want to be tapped back into place. You can fix this lingering leak by taking off the heat riser mechanism(spring) and plugging the ends with small plumbing parts and copper, high-heat silicone. It has been cold so far this winter, and the manual choke compensates very well. Only the installation of a new manifold can assure you will not have to deal with this small but annoying issue.
Replacement of the J PIPE, compression ferrule, and nut, J-PIPE gasket and manifold-to exhaust-donut are also potential solutions to potentially lingering leaks.
I've highlighted these considerations as I had to deal with them after replacing the manifold gasket( single OEM Toyota, no copper sealant). The gasket part went well. These other issues had to be dealt with later..
A thought might be to use a smoke machine before beginning the job to assess if you have multiple sources of exhaust leak.
I'm no expert, but right now my exhaust is pretty quiet.
The mainifolds need to be machined together and any replaceable parts in the horns replaced. Further, the heat riser shaft and bushing, if worn, can be a source for a leak that does not want to go away. There is also a cap at the end of the heat riser shaft that plugs that end of the shaft. The shaft and bushing are no longer available; the cap is, but does not seem to want to be tapped back into place. You can fix this lingering leak by taking off the heat riser mechanism(spring) and plugging the ends with small plumbing parts and copper, high-heat silicone. It has been cold so far this winter, and the manual choke compensates very well. Only the installation of a new manifold can assure you will not have to deal with this small but annoying issue.
Replacement of the J PIPE, compression ferrule, and nut, J-PIPE gasket and manifold-to exhaust-donut are also potential solutions to potentially lingering leaks.
I've highlighted these considerations as I had to deal with them after replacing the manifold gasket( single OEM Toyota, no copper sealant). The gasket part went well. These other issues had to be dealt with later..
A thought might be to use a smoke machine before beginning the job to assess if you have multiple sources of exhaust leak.
I'm no expert, but right now my exhaust is pretty quiet.
