As a precursor to what I'm about to say, I figured I'd do a write up of the repairs that I did to my truck, from the diagnosis process through final button-up. I couldn't find too much info on my specific problem, so I figured I'd make it. Well, here it goes.
When I took ownership of my 1987 Land Cruiser in late April of this year, it didn't idle. I had no idea why it didn't, but It would not run under 1750 rpm's. Because this was my first car, I was kinda nervous tearing into my engine, because I didn't want to take it apart and then not be able to put it back together. I searched around on the net and found this site, but I did not realize how much info that I had accidentially stumbled onto. After posting a couple of n00b threads, like we all do, I decided that I should by an engine manual, so I bought the 2F engine manual that is supposedly the bible for all 2F engines.
I was still nervous. I wanted to have a starting point before I took anything apart. I asked the PO (past owner) what he thought was wrong, and he said that his mechanic thought that there was a cracked intake manifold, which produced a vacuum leak that would not allow the engine to idle. After more drilling, the PO told me that the truck had vastly overheated at least twice due to a plugged radiator. After that, I decided that the only way I was going to get the LC on the road before the end of the summer was i I actually worked on it.
Armed with some white tape, a sharpie, some wrenches and my 2F manual, I took piece after piece off, bagging, labeling and documenting everything. The only reason why my truck started after reassembly was because I labeled every vacuum line, bagged every bolt and drew diagrams of every step. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS WITH EVERYTHING THAT YOU TAKE OFF YOUR TRUCK!!!
BTW, take off the hood when doing this much work under the truck, because it is a PITA (pain in the ass) to work under. Also make sure to get someone to help you with this, because it is the only part that you can't do by yourself.
After fighting with the bolts and things that were attached in the driver's side of th engine compartment, and splitting some sockets, I got the manifolds off. After close inspection, I found out that the intake manifold was not cracked, but heinously warped. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR WARPAGE!!!
I bought a used set of manifolds from a dude on this forum, which is highly recommended, which were in good condition, and true. I went this route because SOR's manifolds are too expensive, and the guys on this forum are great!! Sorry I can't remember your name whoever you are!!
I got the best gaskets I could find, which are Fel-Pro gaskets by the way, as well as a valve cover gasket because it was leaking like crazy and it was easier to take the carb off with the Air Rail and Valve cover off. After cleaning all the surfaces with a de-greaser, I slid the gasket on the head, the exhaust doughnut on the downpipe and EGR pipe gasket on the pipe, and finally the manifolds. One piece of advice to anyone doing this, make sure you slide the heat shield that goes on the exhaust manifold on before you put the manifolds on , because doing it after sucks! Also, make sure that you thread all of the bolts before you mate the head and the manifold, because it is impossible to thread the end bolts after they are mated.
After torquing the manifold bolts to 38 ft/lbs in this order;
2F Manifold Torquing Sequence
5 1 2 6
8 7
4 3
which is straight from the 2F manual, I toqued the exhaust nuts and then worked my way north, following my diagrams. Note to wrenchers, put the air rail on after the carb, because it gets in the way, and the valve cover after that.
On top of the intake manifold, I installed a new Carb insulator, which is the only thing inbetween the manifold and the carb, because I broke mine taking it out. After I installed my carb, I tested my fuel cut off solenoid buy turning the ignition to the ON position, taking the little green plug out of the top of the carb, and plugging it in while listening for a clicking noise to come out of the carb as I plugged it back in. If you don't hear a click, then it is broken and your truck will not idle until you get a new one.
After I installed the carb and all the vacuum lines that go to it, I reconnected the battery and cranked it over. It wouldn't start because the battery was dead. So while I waited for another car to show up so I could jump the LC, I changed the oil to 10w-40 with a Fram special 7000 mile filter, because I like my engine, and I would like it to run for a long time.
I jumped the truck and it ran, yet smoky, very smoky. While it was running, I put the air cleaner assembly back on, as well as all of the vacuum lines associated with it.
After all the lines were attached, I took a flat-head screwdriver to the adjustment screws on the driver's side of the carb and calibrated it to idle at 650 rpm's as per the manual.
Insurance for my truck costs $1700 per year, which is pretty good for a 17 year old male, and registeration and title in NY cost $110 dollars.
This is a thread for newbies, like I used to be, to try to make them a little less nervous when delving into their own projects. Info like this would have been infinately helpful to me when I started. Now time to get off the soapbox...
BTW, it runs perfectly. The PO said that it hasn't run this good in the past 5 years, so I guess that I did a good job. I love to drive it, although it is a little bouncy. Idles smoothly @ 650 rpm and has smooth acceleration, better than my mom's '98 Taurus.
Thank you to all the guys that helped me with this entire process. I love this site and all the people that surf it. Without the help, insight and support from the guys on this forum, my truck would not be drivable today, nor tomorrow, or the day after. My true, heart-thanks to everyone on this forum, including the administrators that keep this page running. As soon as I get a digi camera, I'll post pics of my baby that is yet to be named.
Tools,
Big metric wrench set ranging from 10mm to 19mm
Torque wrench
Open ended wrench set, same sizes
oil filter wrench
oil catch pan
shop light
shop rags
de-greaser
small monkey wrench
Can't think of anything else right now...
Lots of that for me!!!
P.S. Threads that I started and used info from,
Vacuum Question
Emergency Valve Cover Question
High Temp Locktite
Another Quick Manifold Question
Almost Done
My Cruiser Update
Changing the Manifolds on the 2F
Idiling Problems Squared
New Rig With Problems
When I took ownership of my 1987 Land Cruiser in late April of this year, it didn't idle. I had no idea why it didn't, but It would not run under 1750 rpm's. Because this was my first car, I was kinda nervous tearing into my engine, because I didn't want to take it apart and then not be able to put it back together. I searched around on the net and found this site, but I did not realize how much info that I had accidentially stumbled onto. After posting a couple of n00b threads, like we all do, I decided that I should by an engine manual, so I bought the 2F engine manual that is supposedly the bible for all 2F engines.
I was still nervous. I wanted to have a starting point before I took anything apart. I asked the PO (past owner) what he thought was wrong, and he said that his mechanic thought that there was a cracked intake manifold, which produced a vacuum leak that would not allow the engine to idle. After more drilling, the PO told me that the truck had vastly overheated at least twice due to a plugged radiator. After that, I decided that the only way I was going to get the LC on the road before the end of the summer was i I actually worked on it.
Armed with some white tape, a sharpie, some wrenches and my 2F manual, I took piece after piece off, bagging, labeling and documenting everything. The only reason why my truck started after reassembly was because I labeled every vacuum line, bagged every bolt and drew diagrams of every step. MAKE SURE YOU DO THIS WITH EVERYTHING THAT YOU TAKE OFF YOUR TRUCK!!!
BTW, take off the hood when doing this much work under the truck, because it is a PITA (pain in the ass) to work under. Also make sure to get someone to help you with this, because it is the only part that you can't do by yourself.
After fighting with the bolts and things that were attached in the driver's side of th engine compartment, and splitting some sockets, I got the manifolds off. After close inspection, I found out that the intake manifold was not cracked, but heinously warped. MAKE SURE YOU CHECK FOR WARPAGE!!!
I bought a used set of manifolds from a dude on this forum, which is highly recommended, which were in good condition, and true. I went this route because SOR's manifolds are too expensive, and the guys on this forum are great!! Sorry I can't remember your name whoever you are!!
I got the best gaskets I could find, which are Fel-Pro gaskets by the way, as well as a valve cover gasket because it was leaking like crazy and it was easier to take the carb off with the Air Rail and Valve cover off. After cleaning all the surfaces with a de-greaser, I slid the gasket on the head, the exhaust doughnut on the downpipe and EGR pipe gasket on the pipe, and finally the manifolds. One piece of advice to anyone doing this, make sure you slide the heat shield that goes on the exhaust manifold on before you put the manifolds on , because doing it after sucks! Also, make sure that you thread all of the bolts before you mate the head and the manifold, because it is impossible to thread the end bolts after they are mated.
After torquing the manifold bolts to 38 ft/lbs in this order;
2F Manifold Torquing Sequence
5 1 2 6
8 7
4 3
which is straight from the 2F manual, I toqued the exhaust nuts and then worked my way north, following my diagrams. Note to wrenchers, put the air rail on after the carb, because it gets in the way, and the valve cover after that.
On top of the intake manifold, I installed a new Carb insulator, which is the only thing inbetween the manifold and the carb, because I broke mine taking it out. After I installed my carb, I tested my fuel cut off solenoid buy turning the ignition to the ON position, taking the little green plug out of the top of the carb, and plugging it in while listening for a clicking noise to come out of the carb as I plugged it back in. If you don't hear a click, then it is broken and your truck will not idle until you get a new one.
After I installed the carb and all the vacuum lines that go to it, I reconnected the battery and cranked it over. It wouldn't start because the battery was dead. So while I waited for another car to show up so I could jump the LC, I changed the oil to 10w-40 with a Fram special 7000 mile filter, because I like my engine, and I would like it to run for a long time.
I jumped the truck and it ran, yet smoky, very smoky. While it was running, I put the air cleaner assembly back on, as well as all of the vacuum lines associated with it.
After all the lines were attached, I took a flat-head screwdriver to the adjustment screws on the driver's side of the carb and calibrated it to idle at 650 rpm's as per the manual.
Insurance for my truck costs $1700 per year, which is pretty good for a 17 year old male, and registeration and title in NY cost $110 dollars.
This is a thread for newbies, like I used to be, to try to make them a little less nervous when delving into their own projects. Info like this would have been infinately helpful to me when I started. Now time to get off the soapbox...
BTW, it runs perfectly. The PO said that it hasn't run this good in the past 5 years, so I guess that I did a good job. I love to drive it, although it is a little bouncy. Idles smoothly @ 650 rpm and has smooth acceleration, better than my mom's '98 Taurus.
Thank you to all the guys that helped me with this entire process. I love this site and all the people that surf it. Without the help, insight and support from the guys on this forum, my truck would not be drivable today, nor tomorrow, or the day after. My true, heart-thanks to everyone on this forum, including the administrators that keep this page running. As soon as I get a digi camera, I'll post pics of my baby that is yet to be named.
Tools,
Big metric wrench set ranging from 10mm to 19mm
Torque wrench
Open ended wrench set, same sizes
oil filter wrench
oil catch pan
shop light
shop rags
de-greaser
small monkey wrench
Can't think of anything else right now...
Lots of that for me!!!
P.S. Threads that I started and used info from,
Vacuum Question
Emergency Valve Cover Question
High Temp Locktite
Another Quick Manifold Question
Almost Done
My Cruiser Update
Changing the Manifolds on the 2F
Idiling Problems Squared
New Rig With Problems
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