An hour or so after work and I've crossed one to do item off the pre-start checklist. My temporary solution to running the engine without the heater box installed (thought the trans hump should go in first?).
I should be able to reuse the temporary hose and cut it down into two smaller pieces to match the originals (sitting on top of the temp hose) when its time for final installation. The rear heater loop is what the final product will look like.
Archive research does suggest the carb choke breaker should connect to manifold vacuum, so I made the "A" to "B" connection pictured in the post above.
In terms of the fuel system I could not pull myself away from CityRacerLLC.com and ended up ordering a new fuel tank. The '72 truck had a poly tank and the '78 truck's tank was questionable. Ive spent a lot of time cleaning and applying tank liners to tractor tanks in the past; this time I was glad to have the option to start clean. Rebuilt carb, new fuel pump, and new fuel lines deserve a new tank, right?
I may use the new tank but a temporary tank may still come into play to test run the engine.
On the topic of fluids I have used my experience, what I have available, recommendations from the manual, and hours of perusing the archives to come up with this combination:
Any objections are welcome but here is the reasoning:
Rear Diff: I had several bottles of the Lucas 80/90W in the shop. It is rated GL-5 and I could not remember any brass/copper present in the rear axle so that is what I used. The rear diff will get the majority of use and thought it would be nice to have a modern product for lubrication.
Front Diff: I thought the axle bushings were brass or something similar, therefore the Brad Penn GL-4 was used.
Transmission/Transfer Case: I know I installed new "yellow" synchros in the transmission and remember brass bushings present on some of the gears so the Brad Penn GL-4 goes in both. The archives are full of discussions on the topic of GL-5 vs. GL-4 and the potential for GL-5 to attack yellow metals. . . Im sure either would do the job but the GL-4 was easy enough to acquire so in it goes.
Engine Oil: I have used Rotella 15W-40 for years in my truck, tractor engines, etc. and literally buy it by the drum and bucket. A couple years back Rotella changed the formula to deal with emissions nonsense, er I mean to save the planet, and to try and compensate the Lucas Zinc additive goes in as well for the flat tappet cam.
Antifreeze: I picked up some green stuff. Green stuff came out so I will put that back in. Did not really pick out a specific brand as I think they all come from the same source anyway. After reading the manual I am going to have to pick up a few more jugs. . . 18 liters if I read it right!!
Brake Fluid: Used DOT3 as the caps on the master and clutch reservoirs suggested.
I think that covers the most of them. As far as I am concerned/my fluids go, to counter the cooler temperatures outside I dusted off the bottle of Tennessee Fire while catching up on some fine MUD dialogue this evening.
To be honest, Im not much of a drinker. I think I still have several bottles of hooch that I bought when I turned 21! That bottle of Jack has been in the cabinet for close to five years now. Im usually good for a beer a night with supper but sometimes that even knocks me out. . . I like to think that I just work hard enough and I was tired anyway

.
Getting closer. . . goal is to have the 40 running by the weekend.