Builds Doc's 1978 FJ40 Rebuild (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter TractorDoc
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- Thread starter
- #63
I appreciate the positive feedback.
I always try to pay attention to the little details -- those are the things I usually notice first and can make the finished product really stand out. There are many other MUD Members that I have taken inspiration from including MScruiser, jdc1, GAarchitect, and many others. . . they all have detailed builds going on and Id be proud to finish second to any of them.
Snow started flying today. . . fired up the outdoor burner to get the shop warmed up for the winter.
Installed the passenger side knuckle, both axles shafts, and a number of other parts to the front axle but nothing major. I keep thinking of the old Johnny Cash song when he was working at the auto factory and would sneak a car part home each day in his lunch box. . . He built his "One Piece at a Time" and that is about the pace I am keeping! I am farther along than I thought I would be; I had planned on going thru the axles in the dead of winter so having them nearly done by the first snow is a win.
I always try to pay attention to the little details -- those are the things I usually notice first and can make the finished product really stand out. There are many other MUD Members that I have taken inspiration from including MScruiser, jdc1, GAarchitect, and many others. . . they all have detailed builds going on and Id be proud to finish second to any of them.
Snow started flying today. . . fired up the outdoor burner to get the shop warmed up for the winter.
Installed the passenger side knuckle, both axles shafts, and a number of other parts to the front axle but nothing major. I keep thinking of the old Johnny Cash song when he was working at the auto factory and would sneak a car part home each day in his lunch box. . . He built his "One Piece at a Time" and that is about the pace I am keeping! I am farther along than I thought I would be; I had planned on going thru the axles in the dead of winter so having them nearly done by the first snow is a win.
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- 117
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- 11,199
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- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Engine management system is complete. Carb will be tested and package will go in mail tomorrow.
Back to the sandblaster, nice size cabinet. That is definitely a great addition to any shop. Nice work, stay warm!
- Thread starter
- #66
Thanks Disasterman (love the name, I could use that label myself at times. . . )
Beautiful work Jim!!!
Thank you again for taking the time to bring those pieces to their full potential. I truly appreciate your knowledge base and your taking the time to chat with me over the phone. I doubt there is anything I can do to return the favor but if you ever take a trip a couple hours North Id be happy to buy you lunch sometime.
More front axle additions; bolted up the wheel spindles.
Followed by the wheel hubs after installing new seals, bearings, rotors, etc.
I hope to borrow the tubing flare kit again over the long holiday weekend to finish the front axle brake lines. I also need to clean up the best set of lockouts from the two front axles that I have to work with. There will be some family stuff to attend to over the next couple days but I hope to sneak in a couple hours and get both axles "finished."
Beautiful work Jim!!!
Thank you again for taking the time to bring those pieces to their full potential. I truly appreciate your knowledge base and your taking the time to chat with me over the phone. I doubt there is anything I can do to return the favor but if you ever take a trip a couple hours North Id be happy to buy you lunch sometime. More front axle additions; bolted up the wheel spindles.
Followed by the wheel hubs after installing new seals, bearings, rotors, etc.
I hope to borrow the tubing flare kit again over the long holiday weekend to finish the front axle brake lines. I also need to clean up the best set of lockouts from the two front axles that I have to work with. There will be some family stuff to attend to over the next couple days but I hope to sneak in a couple hours and get both axles "finished."
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
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- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
Looks nice. Wheredja get the fancy rotors?
- Thread starter
- #68
Rotors (and most of the other brake parts) were ordered from Rock Auto. They were a couple bucks more than the other options but they came pre-painted on the hubs and along the edge -- Ive tried to do that myself in the past with mixed success.
Today's project focused on the lock out hubs. . . worked thru one side while I kept the other together as a template. I cleaned the everything in the parts washer and then the aluminum pieces took a turn in the blast cabinet. Took the aluminum pieces to the buffing wheel, gave the aluminum a coat of clear and painted the center gold/blacked out the letters before putting everything back together. Took a side by side of one finished top next to what I started with (after cleaning).
The polishing brings out the scuffs and dings in the aluminum but I like the "rugged" look. I did blast the bottom of the right hub (in the picture) but did not yet polish it. Of course Stashe had to get a photobomb in. . . lately he has been interested in chasing his tail unless I am trying to add grease to the wheel bearings or steering knuckles (and tries to jump in the middle of everthing!).
Today's project focused on the lock out hubs. . . worked thru one side while I kept the other together as a template. I cleaned the everything in the parts washer and then the aluminum pieces took a turn in the blast cabinet. Took the aluminum pieces to the buffing wheel, gave the aluminum a coat of clear and painted the center gold/blacked out the letters before putting everything back together. Took a side by side of one finished top next to what I started with (after cleaning).
The polishing brings out the scuffs and dings in the aluminum but I like the "rugged" look. I did blast the bottom of the right hub (in the picture) but did not yet polish it. Of course Stashe had to get a photobomb in. . . lately he has been interested in chasing his tail unless I am trying to add grease to the wheel bearings or steering knuckles (and tries to jump in the middle of everthing!).
- Thread starter
- #69
"Black Friday" turned into "Black Frame Day" in the Shop. The Tubing Flare Kit did not make it home for the weekend so I focused my attention on other matters. It took the better part of 3-4 hours to get both sides painted. Had to put Stashe in the other barn for awhile otherwise there would be black paw prints all over the shop.
The most difficult part was getting inside the frame channels/in the "portholes." I used the foam type brushes to avoid getting a bunch of loose bristles stuck to the frame. Not sure if I just bought cheap ones but the foam would tear after awhile; I went thru a couple dozen of them. The POR-15 Paint is tough stuff. Gloves, long sleeved shirt, and floor coverings are all a must (did not help me from getting it in my hair when looking in/around tight to reach spots). I will have to topcoat the areas that will have sun exposure as the UV Rays are about the only nemesis POR-15 has. . . it should keep the rust away at least! With any luck we will have a rolling chassis before the end of the year.
The most difficult part was getting inside the frame channels/in the "portholes." I used the foam type brushes to avoid getting a bunch of loose bristles stuck to the frame. Not sure if I just bought cheap ones but the foam would tear after awhile; I went thru a couple dozen of them. The POR-15 Paint is tough stuff. Gloves, long sleeved shirt, and floor coverings are all a must (did not help me from getting it in my hair when looking in/around tight to reach spots). I will have to topcoat the areas that will have sun exposure as the UV Rays are about the only nemesis POR-15 has. . . it should keep the rust away at least! With any luck we will have a rolling chassis before the end of the year.
DTSkyCop
SILVER Star
Dynamite work... Love what your doing... Subscribed and along for the rest...!! Keep up the nice work!!!
- Thread starter
- #71
Had a little time this afternoon to spend in the shop. . . with the painted frame, rebuilt axles, and new OME lift all in one place I could not resist bringing some of the pieces together. It was quite the ballet/balancing act using jack stands, the floor jack, and overhead lift to get the rear axle installed. I started with the frame on jack stands and installed the fixed portion of the rear springs (the new bushings were a tight fit!). I put a couple rims/tires on the rear axle, rolled it under the frame and then lowered the frame so I could install the rear shackles. I then raised the frame back up to "catch" the rear axle on the springs and put the new U-bolts on to tie everything together.
While the Aluminum American Racing style wheels look rather fetching I will be going back to Stock Steel Rims with hubcaps. A keen eye will see the wheel studs are too short (with the disc brake conversion) for these rims anyway -- I did check the steel wheels and there is plenty of length for them. The OEM rims are still at the sandblaster and I couldnt justify sending the money for new tires anyway at this point in time. . . when I am closer to driving and moving I will give the new rubber a closer look.
While the Aluminum American Racing style wheels look rather fetching I will be going back to Stock Steel Rims with hubcaps. A keen eye will see the wheel studs are too short (with the disc brake conversion) for these rims anyway -- I did check the steel wheels and there is plenty of length for them. The OEM rims are still at the sandblaster and I couldnt justify sending the money for new tires anyway at this point in time. . . when I am closer to driving and moving I will give the new rubber a closer look.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Sep 26, 2003
- Threads
- 117
- Messages
- 11,199
- Location
- Lancaster, Ohio, USA
- Website
- www.tlcperformance.com
I'm too lazy to re-read the whole thread. What was done to get the rusty-azz Ohio frame into paintworthy condition? It looks nice in pics.
- Thread starter
- #73
Thanks Jim,
Basically I went over it with my little portable sandblaster, sprayed it down with POR-15 Metal Prep (used a little plastic squirt bottle like window cleaner, floor cleaner, etc. comes in), and then painted. I did clean up welded on engine mounts/trailer hitch and welded in a few small patches in the back section. . .
In the beginning:
Sandblasting the cowl. . . while I'm here Ill hit a couple heavy spots on the frame. . .
A few heavy areas turned into the entire frame. . .
And sprayed down with POR-15 Metal Prep:
I had thought about just going over it with the wire wheel grinder but once I started hitting a couple spots with the sandblaster I couldn't stop!
Basically I went over it with my little portable sandblaster, sprayed it down with POR-15 Metal Prep (used a little plastic squirt bottle like window cleaner, floor cleaner, etc. comes in), and then painted. I did clean up welded on engine mounts/trailer hitch and welded in a few small patches in the back section. . .
In the beginning:
Sandblasting the cowl. . . while I'm here Ill hit a couple heavy spots on the frame. . .
A few heavy areas turned into the entire frame. . .
And sprayed down with POR-15 Metal Prep:
I had thought about just going over it with the wire wheel grinder but once I started hitting a couple spots with the sandblaster I couldn't stop!
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Sandblasting is addicting ... once you see that one spot of pure, clean metal you have to see more!!
- Thread starter
- #75
This week's progress did include mounting the front springs/axle to the frame.
Just like on the rear I started by mounting the fixed end of the springs to the frame. The floor jack helped to squeeze the new bushings into the spring hanger.
Once the fixed portion of the spring was in place I rolled the front axle under the front of the frame -- this was more difficult than the rear axle because I do not yet have the rod attached to the steering arms; the front wheels wanted to pivot in all the directions I did not want them to!
The frame was lowered and the front shackles attached. The frame was then raised up to "catch" the axle on the springs and the U-bolts were installed. It is very satisfying to see a rolling frame sitting in the shop! Thanks again @cruiseroutfit -- the OME lift and axle rebuilds looks great with your help! Progress will probably appear to slow down some from here. . . cleaning and prepping all the small parts is very time consuming.
My sandblaster friend called to let me know my small pile of parts was ready for pickup. I realize my FJ40 has four wheels and a spare (for a total of five), not seven. . . sometimes I cannot help having an extra part or two ready to go when I have duplicates. If one rim is bent or has a severe cosmetic issue I have another to pick from.
After standing/looking at the frame for awhile I focused on the steering linkage. I know power steering is another popular conversion/add on. . . for now I am staying with manual steering. I do not plan on the truck being a daily driver (power steering then a must) and want to get a feel for it in its original state. Manual steering might also be discouraging if a friend or other family member had thoughts of "borrowing" my 40!
I am usually competent when it comes to taking things apart. . . I was a little too aggressive with the BFH on the steering center arm spindle though. It was tight/probably usable the way it was but grease was seeping out thru the seal at the bottom and I wanted to address that. I heated the idler arm, wacked around it with the hammer, and used a large brass hammer to eventually pop the splines of the pin out of the arm -- I always try to leave the nut flush with the end of the piece I am hitting against but I managed to mash the two together and broke the idler pin right in half when trying to remove the nut. Put a center arm rebuild kit on the list of things I need. . . the list seems to be getting longer the further along I get!
Just like on the rear I started by mounting the fixed end of the springs to the frame. The floor jack helped to squeeze the new bushings into the spring hanger.
Once the fixed portion of the spring was in place I rolled the front axle under the front of the frame -- this was more difficult than the rear axle because I do not yet have the rod attached to the steering arms; the front wheels wanted to pivot in all the directions I did not want them to!
The frame was lowered and the front shackles attached. The frame was then raised up to "catch" the axle on the springs and the U-bolts were installed. It is very satisfying to see a rolling frame sitting in the shop! Thanks again @cruiseroutfit -- the OME lift and axle rebuilds looks great with your help! Progress will probably appear to slow down some from here. . . cleaning and prepping all the small parts is very time consuming.
My sandblaster friend called to let me know my small pile of parts was ready for pickup. I realize my FJ40 has four wheels and a spare (for a total of five), not seven. . . sometimes I cannot help having an extra part or two ready to go when I have duplicates. If one rim is bent or has a severe cosmetic issue I have another to pick from.
After standing/looking at the frame for awhile I focused on the steering linkage. I know power steering is another popular conversion/add on. . . for now I am staying with manual steering. I do not plan on the truck being a daily driver (power steering then a must) and want to get a feel for it in its original state. Manual steering might also be discouraging if a friend or other family member had thoughts of "borrowing" my 40!
I am usually competent when it comes to taking things apart. . . I was a little too aggressive with the BFH on the steering center arm spindle though. It was tight/probably usable the way it was but grease was seeping out thru the seal at the bottom and I wanted to address that. I heated the idler arm, wacked around it with the hammer, and used a large brass hammer to eventually pop the splines of the pin out of the arm -- I always try to leave the nut flush with the end of the piece I am hitting against but I managed to mash the two together and broke the idler pin right in half when trying to remove the nut. Put a center arm rebuild kit on the list of things I need. . . the list seems to be getting longer the further along I get!
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This week's progress did include mounting the front springs/axle to the frame.
Just like on the rear I started by mounting the fixed end of the springs to the frame. The floor jack helped to squeeze the new bushings into the spring hanger.
View attachment 1361764
Once the fixed portion of the spring was in place I rolled the front axle under the front of the frame -- this was more difficult than the rear axle because I do not yet have the rod attached to the steering arms; the front wheels wanted to pivot in all the directions I did not want them to!
View attachment 1361771
The frame was lowered and the front shackles attached. The frame was then raised up to "catch" the axle on the springs and the U-bolts were installed. It is very satisfying to see a rolling frame sitting in the shop! Progress will probably appear to slow down some from here. . . cleaning and prepping all the small parts is very time consuming.
View attachment 1361772
My sandblaster friend called to let me know my small pile of parts was ready for pickup. I realize my FJ40 has four wheels and a spare (for a total of five), not seven. . . sometimes I cannot help having an extra part or two ready to go when I have duplicates. If one rim is bent or has a severe cosmetic issue I have another to pick from.
View attachment 1361773
After standing/looking at the frame for awhile I focused on the steering linkage. I know power steering is another popular conversion/add on. . . for now I am staying with manual steering. I do not plan on the truck being a daily driver (power steering then a must) and want to get a feel for it in its original state. Manual steering might also be discouraging if a friend or other family member had thoughts of "borrowing" my 40!
I am usually competent when it comes to taking things apart. . . I was a little too aggressive with the BFH on the steering center arm spindle though. It was tight/probably usable the way it was but grease was seeping out thru the seal at the bottom and I wanted to address that. I heated the idler arm, wacked around it with the hammer, and used a large brass hammer to eventually pop the splines of the pin out of the arm -- I always try to leave the nut flush with the end of the piece I am hitting against but I managed to mash the two together and broke the idler pin right in half when trying to remove the nut. Put a center arm rebuild kit on the list of things I need. . . the list seems to be getting longer the further along I get!View attachment 1361775
Center arm rebuild is really easy. After rebuilding the knuckles, tre, center arm, steering box and upper drag link, I can feel a difference in how smooth and tight everything is just rolling it around the garage.
- Thread starter
- #77
I agree Jdc1 -- it should make a difference. I did not really think the steering had a lot of play when I was driving the truck around (the truck that I am using the parts from) -- but I cannot say that I ever made it over 35mph with that one. The ball joints were in obvious need of replacement when I pulled the old ones off though and there was a small bit of wear in the knuckles.
I had planned on replacing the seals in the steering box; is there any other "rebuild" that I should consider or wear points to look for in the steering box itself?
Looking forward to more bodywork updates on your build!
I had planned on replacing the seals in the steering box; is there any other "rebuild" that I should consider or wear points to look for in the steering box itself?
Looking forward to more bodywork updates on your build!
Should he soon. Everything is coming home next week, then off to the media blaster and onto rotisserie. Hopefully we'll see some color by Feb.
- Thread starter
- #79
Another week in and out of the shop has accomplished a few small projects.
The 1972 frame (I guess legally my build has become a 1972. . . the registration is based on the number stamped into the frame) has different mounting points for several things including the splash shields and brake line angle blocks. The '72 front axle brake line drops down on the driver side -- a seperate discussion suggested that moving it over to the passenger side is beneficial because it is away from the exhaust manifold/system. I trudged out thru the snow to the old '78 frame with some card stock, tape measure, and ball peen hammer to make a template of the original mounting holes. Back on the '72 frame I could see I needed to drill a few holes to mount the '78 components.
Punched a divit to guide the drill bit at the proper spots and made a few more openings in the frame. As much as I hate to drill new holes in a good frame this route was probably easier than moving the '78 brake lines over to the driver side. The frame in this area is two layers thick. . . not sure if there is a difference in the metal chemistry but the bit went thru the second/inside rail much easier.
Once both new holes were drilled I was able to fit the '78 components with success. I will have to use a nut/bolt in the new holes but I should have plenty of access thru the big portholes on the inside rail of the frame.
I also tackled a few small painting projects.
I cabinet blasted a number of small parts including the jump seat frames. My turn in line with the seat man is getting closer and I want to have all the pieces ready for him. A couple coats of primer and gloss black have them looking halfway decent -- focusing on the areas that you will see (and not the parts under the seat covers).
I also painted most of the steering components plus a few other small bits that I have taken the time to blast in the cabinet.
My next goal is to get the steering components installed and work on finishing up the new brake lines up to the frame coupler. I still need to go over most of the shackle, axle, shock, etc. bolts and nuts with the torque wrench. My order from davework (Overland Metric) is on the way so I am looking forward to receiving my stainless bolt assortment -- should be a nice touch to compliment the newly painted bits.
I doubt anyone is overly curious but I needed the band aid (in the frame/hole pictures) because I smashed my finger between two axles (stacked on top of one another) while I was robbing them of the 10mm brake line nuts. It will slow me down a little but should not stop me -- I am hoping I do not lose the finger nail. I didnt have any adult bandages so I had to go with 101 Dalmations. . . there is a Minion version on it now. Sad thing is there are no kids in the house to blame them on -- wife says I am a big kid so those are the type of band aids she gets me !
The 1972 frame (I guess legally my build has become a 1972. . . the registration is based on the number stamped into the frame) has different mounting points for several things including the splash shields and brake line angle blocks. The '72 front axle brake line drops down on the driver side -- a seperate discussion suggested that moving it over to the passenger side is beneficial because it is away from the exhaust manifold/system. I trudged out thru the snow to the old '78 frame with some card stock, tape measure, and ball peen hammer to make a template of the original mounting holes. Back on the '72 frame I could see I needed to drill a few holes to mount the '78 components.
Punched a divit to guide the drill bit at the proper spots and made a few more openings in the frame. As much as I hate to drill new holes in a good frame this route was probably easier than moving the '78 brake lines over to the driver side. The frame in this area is two layers thick. . . not sure if there is a difference in the metal chemistry but the bit went thru the second/inside rail much easier.
Once both new holes were drilled I was able to fit the '78 components with success. I will have to use a nut/bolt in the new holes but I should have plenty of access thru the big portholes on the inside rail of the frame.
I also tackled a few small painting projects.
I cabinet blasted a number of small parts including the jump seat frames. My turn in line with the seat man is getting closer and I want to have all the pieces ready for him. A couple coats of primer and gloss black have them looking halfway decent -- focusing on the areas that you will see (and not the parts under the seat covers).
I also painted most of the steering components plus a few other small bits that I have taken the time to blast in the cabinet.
My next goal is to get the steering components installed and work on finishing up the new brake lines up to the frame coupler. I still need to go over most of the shackle, axle, shock, etc. bolts and nuts with the torque wrench. My order from davework (Overland Metric) is on the way so I am looking forward to receiving my stainless bolt assortment -- should be a nice touch to compliment the newly painted bits.
I doubt anyone is overly curious but I needed the band aid (in the frame/hole pictures) because I smashed my finger between two axles (stacked on top of one another) while I was robbing them of the 10mm brake line nuts. It will slow me down a little but should not stop me -- I am hoping I do not lose the finger nail. I didnt have any adult bandages so I had to go with 101 Dalmations. . . there is a Minion version on it now. Sad thing is there are no kids in the house to blame them on -- wife says I am a big kid so those are the type of band aids she gets me
!
