Congrats on the installation! Someday I will upgrade from regular IMS to MRR. Mine take a lot of abuse in the rocks. The rubber boot deflects rocks. My LCAs take a lot of rock hits. I have an SPC setup like yours. The rounded ball mount for the rear help it slide over rocks. I think you will like them in Windrock.
Dobinson's MRA Extended FRONT Shocks, Install DIY
- Thread starter MongooseGA
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- Thread starter
- #23
I couldn't remember which ones you had in front already but I knew it was one of the newer sets from them. I know you wheel probably pretty similar trails to me so it's great to hear you've had a good experience with them so far.
Is there anyone else running these MRA in the front on a 100 yet? I can't imagine I'm the first to go all 4 corners, right?
I have one of the first sets of extended droop IMS to hit the US. More droop works well in my twisted environment.
Then I run 4 wheelers bumps in the front to soften the compression blow from a jump bounce. My environment is very similar to yours. I'm seeing builds become more regional as we start to learn how products survive different types of abuse.
I run them.
- Thread starter
- #26
Awesome! What have you found works for you as far as the adjustments go? What kind of weight/ use does your truck have?
Mine are non-adjustable IMS (before MRR).
With me in it weighs just over 7,200 lbs. I was standing beside it when this was taken.
Since I haven't really "streched their legs" yet, I won't dial them properly until COTR. At least. Bertha weighed in at close to 6800lbs. I moved up to these units from Foamcells, my hopes are high for them. TN will be their first major test.
I actually just installed the shocks with the hardware they came with, so only the bottom bushing bottom washer and top bushing top washer. Went to double check the install instructions and they don't say anything about adding extra washers.
MRA59-A782 Install PDF
Is this absolutely necessary? Maybe @crikeymike could chime in?
Pic of factory and MRA shocks side by side:
- Thread starter
- #30
Iirc, I called the vendor to confirm bushing/ washer orientation. If there was a washer on both sides of the original bushings, IMO, there should be on these as well.
Damn, that's annoying. Wish the 100-specific instructions would've mentioned that. Might have to go back and redo my install then
The shocks have 2 lipped bushings that meet in the frame mount without locating washers.
Sweet! Thanks for the info. I figured there must've been a reason I didn't include the factory washers. When I was installing. Was dreading having to go back down there before my trip tomorrow. I'll post my feedback and settings after the weekend. Cheers
Just wanted to come back and share my experience with the new shocks:
They're amazing so far! From what I've read on the forum, factory Tokico shocks (or AHC if you have it) are generally regarded as giving the most "plush" feel. Going from my factory shocks to the MRAs felt even more plush. As a caveat, I did also install TT extended end links front and back, as well as two sets of PPs bump stops up front and a set in the rear. But I'd say it was the shocks primarily driving the improved feel on the road.
I initially set rebound (R), high speed compression (HSC), and low speed compression (LSC) at 0 clicks (wide open, no damping). For me this felt great. Very soft and handling was fine on the highway. Over bumps I could feel the rear oscillate a bit before settling, so I knew I probably needed to add some R damping. On the dirt, washboards felt SOO much better than before. I felt like I could just float over the washboards cruising at up to around 40mph fine. Much less rattling and vibration than before. I did feel the rear bottom out a couple times when hitting big whoops and going faster than I probably should have. The new bump stops helped there. After some trail riding, I ended up adjusting to my current settings:
Rear Right: LSC 3/20, HSC 4/10, R -11/14*
Rear Left: LSC 2/20, HSC 4/10, R -11/14*
Front Right: LSC 2/20, HSC 2/10, R -12/14*
Front Left: LSC 2/20, HSC 2/10, R -12/14*
*for rebound, I start from fully closed/clock-wise (max damping) which ended up being at around 14 clicks for me (owner's manual says there are about 12 clicks), then backing out (counter-clockwise) 11 clicks in the rear and 12 clicks in the front. So effectively +3 clicks of damping in the rear and +2 clicks of damping in the front. I did it this way because the clicks are less palpable and audible in the early wide open range, so its easier to start from max damping then back out.
They're amazing so far! From what I've read on the forum, factory Tokico shocks (or AHC if you have it) are generally regarded as giving the most "plush" feel. Going from my factory shocks to the MRAs felt even more plush. As a caveat, I did also install TT extended end links front and back, as well as two sets of PPs bump stops up front and a set in the rear. But I'd say it was the shocks primarily driving the improved feel on the road.
I initially set rebound (R), high speed compression (HSC), and low speed compression (LSC) at 0 clicks (wide open, no damping). For me this felt great. Very soft and handling was fine on the highway. Over bumps I could feel the rear oscillate a bit before settling, so I knew I probably needed to add some R damping. On the dirt, washboards felt SOO much better than before. I felt like I could just float over the washboards cruising at up to around 40mph fine. Much less rattling and vibration than before. I did feel the rear bottom out a couple times when hitting big whoops and going faster than I probably should have. The new bump stops helped there. After some trail riding, I ended up adjusting to my current settings:
Rear Right: LSC 3/20, HSC 4/10, R -11/14*
Rear Left: LSC 2/20, HSC 4/10, R -11/14*
Front Right: LSC 2/20, HSC 2/10, R -12/14*
Front Left: LSC 2/20, HSC 2/10, R -12/14*
*for rebound, I start from fully closed/clock-wise (max damping) which ended up being at around 14 clicks for me (owner's manual says there are about 12 clicks), then backing out (counter-clockwise) 11 clicks in the rear and 12 clicks in the front. So effectively +3 clicks of damping in the rear and +2 clicks of damping in the front. I did it this way because the clicks are less palpable and audible in the early wide open range, so its easier to start from max damping then back out.
awesomeissquid
SILVER Star
How new/used were your factory shocks when you made the switch?
They were in good shape. 190K miles on em.
