Dobinsons IMS Shocks - Land Cruiser 100 Series and Lexus LX470

[erfworm]

I'm also running SPC uppers and 555 lowers. Looks like we have the same configuration.

Same setup for me. I have a harsh “top-out” when unloading the front suspension no matter where I set my droop. Currently my FCPs are the limiter in the travel and that’s what is topping out.
Just ordered the 786s from ExitOffroad. Will report back on how they compare with the FCPs and new droop numbers when I get them installed.

 

[pili]

Same setup for me. I have a harsh “top-out” when unloading the front suspension no matter where I set my droop. Currently my FCPs are the limiter in the travel and that’s what is topping out.
Just ordered the 786s from ExitOffroad. Will report back on how they compare with the FCPs and new droop numbers when I get them installed.

Pretty sure this is just the nature of the torsion bars and lift. We dont have the option of running a taller, softer spring. The only way I can think to really ultimately deal with it is to run a very high end shock with high speed rebound adjustment tuned to your specific wheel and tire combo.

 

[erfworm]

Finally got around to installing these in front and gave them a pretty good shake down comparing them to my FCPs. Keep in mind my FCPs have roughly 40k on them. Couple pics showing length difference. The IMS shocks are about 1” longer from my best measurement. This extra length got me to 24.75 at full droop vs 24 (I had a 6mm thick washer spacing down my FCPs). Max droop for my truck with shocks removed was 25 with UCAs being the stops.

 

[erfworm]

Overall impressions are that these are as firm as the FCPs but overall more compliant or plush. Road manners are about the same but high speed washboard and potholed forest roads are way smoother. Soaks everything up without being jarring. Slow speed crawling and rocks seemed like the wheel travel was better controlled and harsh too out completely gone! Not sure if this is the extra length or calving or a combo.
Definitely thinking about the adjustable remote resi’s for the rear now!

 

[crikeymike]

Overall impressions are that these are as firm as the FCPs but overall more compliant or plush. Road manners are about the same but high speed washboard and potholed forest roads are way smoother. Soaks everything up without being jarring. Slow speed crawling and rocks seemed like the wheel travel was better controlled and harsh too out completely gone! Not sure if this is the extra length or calving or a combo.
Definitely thinking about the adjustable remote resi’s for the rear now!

That's awesome, a great comparison!!

I sold the IMS 786's and MRA rears to someone else earlier today, and that combo is getting super popular on 100's

 

[OwnerCS]

Finally got around to installing these in front and gave them a pretty good shake down comparing them to my FCPs. Keep in mind my FCPs have roughly 40k on them. Couple pics showing length difference. The IMS shocks are about 1” longer from my best measurement. This extra length got me to 24.75 at full droop vs 24 (I had a 6mm thick washer spacing down my FCPs). Max droop for my truck with shocks removed was 25 with UCAs being the stops.

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Good job. That is exactly the same droop that I measured on my 60786 fronts. I think we are seeing a pattern.

I believe the real-world advantage of having the extra droop helps to keep the wheels on the ground when you drive off into an unexpected hole that's covered in mud. Sometimes you just can't see what you're driving into and need your suspension to carry you through.

 

[jLB]

I sold the IMS 786's and MRA rears to someone else earlier today, and that combo is getting super popular on 100's

I'm sure enjoying that IMS/MRA setup on my two LXs. Our summer trip to Colorado (~1200 miles each way) was pleasant both on road and off road. I'm tempted to try the full IMS kit on my son's 2000 LC just to be able to compare IMS/MRA to IMS/IMS side by side.

Good job. That is exactly the same droop that I measured on my 60786 fronts. I think we are seeing a pattern.

Yep, I'm seeing 24.75" on the front of my two LXs with the IMS 786 as well.

 

[erfworm]

That's awesome, a great comparison!!

I sold the IMS 786's and MRA rears to someone else earlier today, and that combo is getting super popular on 100's

I’ve rolling around with OME 863 springs in the back without a load for a couple weeks and think that having that adjustability would really help between loaded and unloaded. Guess I’m gonna have to pick up an extra shift at work soon

 

[Ironsides]

Looking to get these for my 02' 470. Wanting 2.5" front with whatever is recommended in the rear. With my 5th gen it was 1" more for the back. Also interested in the long travel 3" kit.

I'm interested in the IMS front MRA rear and was wondering what youd recommend for a good all round spring. Like others, I will be using the rig for clamping and frequent trips to our cabin. Family of 5 with 4 bikes on the back. Occasional dump trailer loads and couple hundred pounds of work gear in the back from time to time. I would say unloaded half the time of use.

Thoughts and opinions would be great!


Also wondering what the availability is of the kit.

 

[crikeymike]

Looking to get these for my 02' 470. Wanting 2.5" front with whatever is recommended in the rear. With my 5th gen it was 1" more for the back. Also interested in the long travel 3" kit.

I'm interested in the IMS front MRA rear and was wondering what youd recommend for a good all round spring. Like others, I will be using the rig for clamping and frequent trips to our cabin. Family of 5 with 4 bikes on the back. Occasional dump trailer loads and couple hundred pounds of work gear in the back from time to time. I would say unloaded half the time of use.

Thoughts and opinions would be great!


Also wondering what the availability is of the kit.

All the options are on this page here: Dobinsons 100 Series IMS Lift Kit Builder Page - Exit Offroad - https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-100-series-ims-kit-for-toyota-land-cruiser-ifs-v8-gas-1998-2007/

C59-167 in the rear would be best with 2.5" front and what you'll be doing with the vehicle.

As of right now, that's all in stock including uca's and diff drop kit, IMS front and MRA rear

 

[Ironsides]

All the options are on this page here: Dobinsons 100 Series IMS Lift Kit Builder Page - Exit Offroad - https://exitoffroad.com/product/dobinsons-100-series-ims-kit-for-toyota-land-cruiser-ifs-v8-gas-1998-2007/

C59-167 in the rear would be best with 2.5" front and what you'll be doing with the vehicle.

As of right now, that's all in stock including uca's and diff drop kit, IMS front and MRA rear

If I lift the front 2.5", what should I lift the rear to have at least an inch more in the rear? I like the rake because it levels out once loaded. I think the c59-167 would work best but not sure the 2" height is enough.

 

[crikeymike]

If I lift the front 2.5", what should I lift the rear to have at least an inch more in the rear? I like the rake because it levels out once loaded. I think the c59-167 would work best but not sure the 2" height is enough.

Those would be the best option I think. 2.5" front and 2" rear will only take out 1/2" of rake from original settings. Lifting 2.5" front and rear would keep the factory rake

 

[jLB]

If I lift the front 2.5", what should I lift the rear to have at least an inch more in the rear? I like the rake because it levels out once loaded. I think the c59-167 would work best but not sure the 2" height is enough.

I’m not a vendor, just a consumer.

Generally, the listed number of inches, for a 100 series lift, is referring to the amount of “rear lift”.

In my experience, the vendor’s “inches of lift” is a very rough estimate, and is really only useful in referring to “taller” or “shorter” when comparing the same manufacturer’s springs.

With the 100 series front torsion bars, the amount of lift is variable. Generally the more lift, the worse the ride gets. About 21.5” center of hub to fender lip (front) has been about the maximum that I’ve been happy with, which works out to about 2” over stock.

Establish the rear ride height, and then adjust the front for proper rake & droop. 2”rear springs might turn out to be a perfect 22.5” (hub to fender), or they might end up being 23.5”, depending on vendor, and what you have in the rear.

 

[Ironsides]

I’m not a vendor, just a consumer.

Generally, the listed number of inches, for a 100 series lift, is referring to the amount of “rear lift”.

In my experience, the vendor’s “inches of lift” is a very rough estimate, and is really only useful in referring to “taller” or “shorter” when comparing the same manufacturer’s springs.

With the 100 series front torsion bars, the amount of lift is variable. Generally the more lift, the worse the ride gets. About 21.5” center of hub to fender lip (front) has been about the maximum that I’ve been happy with, which works out to about 2” over stock.

Establish the rear ride height, and then adjust the front for proper rake & droop. 2”rear springs might turn out to be a perfect 22.5” (hub to fender), or they might end up being 23.5”, depending on vendor, and what you have in the rear.

Thank you for the great response, sir! What would you recommend for a rear spring height then? What did you go with on your rig?

On my 5th gen I installed a ride height adjustable spring which was very nice to have.

Id like to go a 33" or 34" tire since this is my DD and I want to buy once and cry once.

 

[Ironsides]

Those would be the best option I think. 2.5" front and 2" rear will only take out 1/2" of rake from original settings. Lifting 2.5" front and rear would keep the factory rake

I didn't see this till now, thanks for the response!

 

[jLB]

Thank you for the great response, sir! What would you recommend for a rear spring height then? What did you go with on your rig?

On my 5th gen I installed a ride height adjustable spring which was very nice to have.

Id like to go a 33" or 34" tire since this is my DD and I want to buy once and cry once.

I’ve got three 100 series in the driveway, with rear coils from 3 different manufacturers, all allegedly ~2-2.5”. One sits at +3”, another at +1.5”, and another at +1” (none are Dobinsons). I’ve also got a collection of “extra” springs in the garage. (I tried some fancy low lift Dobinsons “flexi” springs, for an 80 series, against @crikeymike ‘s recommendation, and got 4”+ of lift in the rear, those are now “extras”)

If I were buying a set of Dobinsons rear coils, I’d probably go with the C59-167 for a mostly stock vehicle.

The 100 series (suspension) lifts really only change the point that the suspension sits “at rest”, and really don’t add clearance for tires. 33” tires (285/75R16 or 275/70R18) fit, on stock wheels, on the stock suspension.

Edited to add: The reason that I don’t have Dobinsons springs, has nothing to do with the quality or performance of Dobinsons springs, it has more to do with I already had a metric s***-ton of springs and torsion bars.

 

[OwnerCS]

I'm quickly approaching 1 year for running the Dobinsons IMS combo. This has been the kind of product that continues to grow and exceed expectations. I run heavily loaded and do a lot of aggressive off-roading on a monthly basis. It rides well when I'm traveling and plays hard when I go off-road. I like the setup.

 

[steeznutz]

I’m not a vendor, just a consumer.

Generally, the listed number of inches, for a 100 series lift, is referring to the amount of “rear lift”.

In my experience, the vendor’s “inches of lift” is a very rough estimate, and is really only useful in referring to “taller” or “shorter” when comparing the same manufacturer’s springs.

With the 100 series front torsion bars, the amount of lift is variable. Generally the more lift, the worse the ride gets. About 21.5” center of hub to fender lip (front) has been about the maximum that I’ve been happy with, which works out to about 2” over stock.

Establish the rear ride height, and then adjust the front for proper rake & droop. 2”rear springs might turn out to be a perfect 22.5” (hub to fender), or they might end up being 23.5”, depending on vendor, and what you have in the rear.

I have a quick follow-up question on lifts. When a kit is advertised as providing x inches of lift, is that in relation to the neutral height? I have a stock LX470 where the ADC is on its last legs and I'm deciding between the Dobinsons 1-1.5" kit, or just going with standard LC shocks (no lift). I'm assuming the no-lift option would have it roughly in the neutral position of the AHC, correct? Great answer, btw. Thanks!

 

[OwnerCS]

I have a quick follow-up question on lifts. When a kit is advertised as providing x inches of lift, is that in relation to the neutral height? I have a stock LX470 where the ADC is on its last legs and I'm deciding between the Dobinsons 1-1.5" kit, or just going with standard LC shocks (no lift). I'm assuming the no-lift option would have it roughly in the neutral position of the AHC, correct? Great answer, btw. Thanks!

I think going from AHC suspension to stock LC shocks will require new stuck torsion bars and rear springs. The ACH torsion bars are and springs are not strong enough to carry the full weight of the vehicle. It maight feel like AHC had been set to the lowest setting.

This picture should show a stock LC on at stock suspension height.

It takes springs and torsion bars to get the desired lift, then shocks that have been matched with the new spring load to dampen/control the ride.


1) Will the vehicle be used for towing a large boat or camper for any significant distance.

2) How many miles on the odometer? I replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, rubber control arm bushings, and end link bushings along with my new Dobinson’s IMS suspension. The IMS shocks, torsion bars, and springs made the most noticeable improvement because all rubber components in the suspension and steering system were dried out and worn out from wear. With the replacement of each ball joint and bushings, the ride would become incrementally better after each part replacement. I think that a lift does provide a degree of safety over a non-lifted or lowered car. The driver has better visibility and can avoid road obstacles.

3) Do you intend to do any off-road exploring in the GA and southeastern TN mountain areas? Do you plan to travel to Colorado or Utah to explore the mountains and the great west?

 

[steeznutz]

I think going from AHC suspension to stock LC shocks will require new stuck torsion bars and rear springs. The ACH torsion bars are and springs are not strong enough to carry the full weight of the vehicle. It maight feel like AHC had been set to the lowest setting.

This picture should show a stock LC on at stock suspension height.

It takes springs and torsion bars to get the desired lift, then shocks that have been matched with the new spring load to dampen/control the ride.


1) Will the vehicle be used for towing a large boat or camper for any significant distance.

2) How many miles on the odometer? I replaced all ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bar bushings, rubber control arm bushings, and end link bushings along with my new Dobinson’s IMS suspension. The IMS shocks, torsion bars, and springs made the most noticeable improvement because all rubber components in the suspension and steering system were dried out and worn out from wear. With the replacement of each ball joint and bushings, the ride would become incrementally better after each part replacement. I think that a lift does provide a degree of safety over a non-lifted or lowered car. The driver has better visibility and can avoid road obstacles.

3) Do you intend to do any off-road exploring in the GA and southeastern TN mountain areas? Do you plan to travel to Colorado or Utah to explore the mountains and the great west?

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1. I do not anticipate towing (hitch mounted bike rack at most).
2. About 170k, but it had fairly extensive & regular maintenance performed before I took ownership
3. I do expect to get into off-road exploring, predominantly in the Southeast. This won't be a daily driver, but it may be used for some highway travel. I'm guessing 20-30% off-road. I probably wouldn't drive out west due to time constraints. However, I just got back from a trip to UT, ID, MT, and WY, and the LC would have been a lot more fun than the Nissan Sentra we had, though the Sentra did handle about 100 miles of gravel roads relatively well.

So I have 2 quotes:
1. No lift, delete AHC, replace front & rear shocks. I was assuming that was for a fully functional repair, meaning if new rear springs and/or torsion bars were necessary, they'd be part of the deal.
2. Dobinsons 1-1.5" lift kit, which includes 4 shocks, 2 springs, 2 torsion bars.

Based on that picture and my own recollection, my 470 seems to ride little higher in the neutral position, but I don't have a good picture to share at the moment.