DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (6 Viewers)

[flintknapper]

Looks nice and clean! Seems you switched to the metal T’s too, I’m planning on doing the same. From what I’ve read, you’d really want to go with the constant torque clamps on those metal T’s to prevent leakage.

I re-used my hoses since they looked to be in excellent shape still.

However, I went with metal T's that were 3/4 x 3/4 x 5/8 to allow for the 'belling' of the hose ends, which results in a nice tight fit. No leaks whatsoever.

IF using new hoses...then the 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/2 would be the way to go.

 

[TenderWarrior]

The most expensive hose was $22 from McGeorge Toyota. I didn't total up the T only install because I bought a few other parts too, but you can plug all of those numbers into their website to get an idea. Toyota Parts | Toyota Online Parts | Genuine Toyota Parts | Toyota Parts Online
(Edit: hoses were about $81. Ts were $16 and clamps were ~$20. Plus shipping)

I thought it was worth doing the hoses while I was in there because of the mileage on my cruiser. Hindsight being what it is, they would have probably been fine but I guess I'll just take that cost as some extra piece of mind. I think the install was probably easier too bc I could preassemble the new stuff.

Awesome thank you!

 

[OEMGUY0720]

FF thanks for the link! @mdcoa

 

[ad nave terram]

I bought a '98 LX last month with 226k miles and immediately noticed some leaking from the heater tee (hot side), but didn't have the time to replace until last night (in anticipation of a trip to Yosemite this weekend). Based on the below, I assume it had never been replaced before.

As soon as I started turning the clamp to the inside tee hose (closest to cabin), the right tee arm severed. Spent a good 20 minutes fishing out the plastic from the hose before installing a stainless steel replacement tee. I lost about a half cup of coolant (parked facing downhill). I didn't have time to replace the cold side tee, but will once back from this trip.

Many thanks to this thread for helping me avert a possible Yosemite stranding!

 

[Tareq]

I re-used my hoses since they looked to be in excellent shape still.

However, I went with metal T's that were 3/4 x 3/4 x 5/8 to allow for the 'belling' of the hose ends, which results in a nice tight fit. No leaks whatsoever.

IF using new hoses...then the 5/8 x 5/8 x 1/2 would be the way to go.

I ordered these and they arrived today, will do it myself but not sure which clamps to get now, kindly advise and thank you!

Amazon product ASIN B000DCNGIS

 

[white_lx]

I ordered these and they arrived today, will do it myself but not sure which clamps to get now, kindly advise and thank you!

Reuse the clamps. These spring clamps will keep constant pressure applied on the hose, even if there is some shrinkage or settling of the hose (unlike the screw-type hose clamps).

 

[Tareq]

Reuse the clamps. These spring clamps will keep constant pressure applied on the hose, even if there is some shrinkage or settling of the hose (unlike the screw-type hose clamps).

but the reviews say if u use the OEM clamps you will have leaks as these Ts are smaller than the OEM Ts.

 

[flintknapper]

but the reviews say if u use the OEM clamps you will have leaks as these Ts are smaller than the OEM Ts.

If you re-used your old hoses...then they have already taken whatever 'shape' they are going to (not going to shrink, expand, etc anymore ) so no worry about using common worm-gear clamps. I use the widest ones I can find however. Have had no problems with mine leaking. The system does not have much pressure on it.

 

[Tareq]

If you re-used your old hoses...then they have already taken whatever 'shape' they are going to (not going to shrink, expand, etc anymore ) so no worry about using common worm-gear clamps. I use the widest ones I can find however. Have had no problems with mine leaking. The system does not have much pressure on it.

View attachment 2013156

Looks clean! Thank you!
Yes I was worried about the clamps, not the hoses, and Amazon says the clamps people bought with the metal Ts are this size:
SAE Size 10, 9/16" to 1-1/16" Diameter Range, 9/16" Band Width

I will see if I can find them at Home Depot. Where did you get urs from? I need 6 total correct? did u have difficulty using pliers to remove OEM clamps?

 

[wyattroa]

Just did mine yesterday. 181k on the old ones. I knew I had to since I had a coolant leak from them.

 

[flintknapper]

Looks clean! Thank you!
Yes I was worried about the clamps, not the hoses, and Amazon says the clamps people bought with the metal Ts are this size:
SAE Size 10, 9/16" to 1-1/16" Diameter Range, 9/16" Band Width

I will see if I can find them at Home Depot. Where did you get urs from? I need 6 total correct? did u have difficulty using pliers to remove OEM clamps?

^^^^^

No. But I had my intake off (replacing starter) when I did my Tees, so had plenty of room to maneuver.

The factory constant pressure clamps are installed with the tabs facing down. This can make it a 'challenge' to remove some of them if your intake is still in place. A handy tool to reach and remove all such clamps (I use mine often) is:

 

[ad nave terram]

I purchased these tees: Amazon product ASIN B000DCNGIS
And these clamps: Amazon product ASIN B008MG37S6
I did not replace the hoses. After ~120 miles driven, I see no leaks.

Is it not wise to use screw-type clamps with original hoses and the SS tees?

 

[flintknapper]

I purchased these tees: Amazon product ASIN B000DCNGIS
And these clamps: Amazon product ASIN B008MG37S6
I did not replace the hoses. After ~120 miles driven, I see no leaks.

Is it not wise to use screw-type clamps with original hoses and the SS tees?

It's perfectly fine, just remember to go back sometime later and re-tighten them. Especially if replacing hoses with new. 'Constant Pressure/Torque) clamps eliminate the need to re-tighten clamps as rubber hoses compress. So one less thing to think about.

BUT...remember, plain old worm gear clamps have been in use for almost as long as automobiles have been around. Yes, you might have to give them a turn or two every few years.

And before anyone chimes in with a completely unnecessary post stating: "If constant torque clamps weren't better....Mr. T wouldn't have used them".

I get it, I agree with it...but worm clamps will DO and are in fact better in some instances.

 

[Tareq]

My Ts arrived yesterday, guy at auto parts store recommended 2 size 8 clamps + 1 size 6 for each T. Will change it soon.

 

[SwimBikeRunPDX]

Just failed on my way to work...wish I would've read this first...hopefully Lexus dealer won't charge me too much!

 

[Live to Ski]

Year/mileage?

 

[SwimBikeRunPDX]

2006 LX470 265,000 not sure if they’d been replaced before. The shop is going to pressure check the cooling system and the engine to make sure no damage was done. Coolant reservoir was empty, but didn’t drive for very far, less than 5-miles. So fingers crossed.

 

[Snow Wagon]

Replaced my Ts today.
2003 w/ 116k.
I’m confident they’d never been done.

This info might be somewhere in the 30 other pages of this thread, so sorry if it’s a repeat...

Used the following tools:
- Astro 9409A Hose Clamp Pliers
- Small 90 Degree Picks (Harbor Freight)
- 7” Pliers (would’ve preferred shorter...)
- Ladder
- 2 small towels

Tools I would’ve liked to have:
- Knee Pads

I removed the engine cover, used the ladder to “climb” into the engine compartment, then kneeled on the 2 small towels (folded up...) on the support that runs across the front of the engine compartment.
At times I put my forearms on the top of the engine.

I removed all 6 hoses and 12 hose clamps.
The hose clamp pliers were extremely helpful, especially for the clamps by the firewall.
A short pair of pliers would’ve been nice (can’t find the pair I have...).

Make sure you keep track of what hoses go where.
Take pictures, lay them out on a cardboard with a diagram, etc.

4 of the 6 hoses were marked with a colored stripe at 1 end.
On mine, the colored stripe was on the end opposite the T.
I’m guessing that’s standard.

After moving the hose clamps to the middle of the each hose, I used the 90 Degree Pick to release the bond between the rubber hose and the T.
Also used it to break the bond between the rubber hose and each metal pipe they fit over.
Just work the 90 Degree Pick into the joint, then go most of the way around the hose / pipe.
This makes it easier to remove the T without breaking it.
Also, I think less likely to have broken pieces of Ts floating around in your coolant...

I cleaned and checked all of my hoses.
They were in good condition, so I reused them.
Condition will be highly dependent on age, mileage, where the vehicle has been, and if it’s been garaged or not.
If in doubt, replace them...

I reinstalled the driver side hoses, clamps, and T first, then the passenger side.
I also reused the original clamps (no rust / corrosion on them).

My Ts were in bad shape.
They didn’t break, but all 6 ends more or less disintegrated during removal.

Took me about 2 hours total.
If I just removed / replaced the Ts, it would’ve been under an hour.
I just wanted to make sure my hoses and clamps were all good.

Enjoy.
Tom

 

[midniteRNR]

I replaced the tees with OEM Toyota plastic ones today as one of the first projects on my new to me LX470 (147k miles). It wasn't hard, but it was a pain to reach. I used these clamp pliers (3 Pc Mini Locking Pliers Set) to go around the clamp/hose to release it. Since the pliers are locking, they were helpful to snake the clamp back down and up the hose. No in-process pics, but just need to loosen up the pliers to slip them over the hose and then tighten back down over the spring clamp ends before clamping to close (see second pic). Like others have noted, the passenger side tee was in ok condition, but I broke the driver side tee in the hose during removal. Got out all the chunks, though.

 

[Inukshuk]

Just did mine. 130,000 miles on 2006 Land Cruiser. Replaced with OEM Toyota from @NLXTACY OEM Coolant Tee Left side one crumbled as I wrenched on the first clamp. It was easy enough to use regular pliers for the clamps. On drivers side I fully removed the hoses to get out the plastic bits. Yes, DO THIS!

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