looks available to me....
DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter paflytyer
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Could not find the hose part numbers for T to heater core. There are two and can anybody post it here please?
2001LC
SILVER Star
Good thing your on top of those
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this is a friendly reminder to check your heater hose T’s. I knew mine were bad and had a set on my toolbox. Factory hose busted one morning and I noticed coolant & smoke when I parked.
It took me 10 minutes to change them in my driveway, but this would be disastrous out on the trail. 03 LX470 with 120k miles on it. Check those T’s!
Part # 87248-60460 from EBay is what I used x 2
It took me 10 minutes to change them in my driveway, but this would be disastrous out on the trail. 03 LX470 with 120k miles on it. Check those T’s!
Part # 87248-60460 from EBay is what I used x 2
My first post after being a reader since 2005. Finally changed heater Ts on my 2001 LX470 with over 156,000 miles. I was afraid of its failure on one of my long trips. But to my surprise the original Ts look really good and not worn out. Thank you all for some key suggestions such as cardboard on engine bay to lay down for access, small vice plier, and 90 degree nose plier. Still took a little over an hour start to finish.
CloudCity
LuxCruisers
I don't remember which PN goes to which hose but here's my invoice with all shown. They are the bottom six PNs if it isn't clear. They are all different owing to the different PN for each. Maybe you can compare to what you already have to determine or your dealer could offer help.
Changed mine over today. 03 LX w/ 125,000 miles. Original T’s DISINTEGRATED coming out. Had no outward signs of impending failure but were one good jarring away from disaster. Switched to metal T’s and worm gear clamps. Thank you Mud members for all of the insight, in this issue and every imaginable other!
I just had mine pop on me while I was in the parking lot waiting for my wife. This thread has been a great resource, thanks everyone. Figured I'd add something that might help others in the same situation. Attached is the diagram with part numbers, any dealership can get them for you. Thanks again.
This site is amazing! Checked my tee’s and found them Like this. Parts are on the way. 165,000 miles on it.
I agree. This website is extremely helpful. I used the above diagram, ordered new hoses and T's and in about 90 minutes I swapped them all out. I could do it faster now, but who cares. Be sure to inspect your work. I found one of my hoses not pushed on completely. Luckily I found it, and checked everything else. No leaks. Should be good for another 100K miles.
Thanks to all,
Dave
Thanks to all,
Dave
AndersN
SILVER Star
Heater T thread bump. 2006 LX470 with 119k miles. Yikes
Another Bump:
2005 LX with 194K
2005 LX with 194K
I’m ordering tomorrow! Metal or plastic! I’ve read through the threads and still confused..... I truly want the best without any problems. Post a link to the best part y’all think! Thanks
2001LC
SILVER Star
I did one set with metal as it was special case. I've done dozens with OEM plastic and prefer those. I then recommend replacement as PM every 7 t 10 year, aligning with Timing belt job or coolant flushes. Replacing thermostat and radiator cap isn't a bad idea either at the 7 to 10 year.
Metal will add HP and increase MPG
:https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons-84543-Heater-Fitting/dp/B000DCNGIS
Either is fine. The OEM plastics are known to last a long time with the caveat of sudden failure after X number of years/miles. The metal tees don't have much historical data but could potentially last the life of the car. I'd decide based on whichever is cheapest/ available quickly/ gives me the warmest fuzzies.
My mechanic in Houston says he tried the metal ones but the fit was off. He only uses the OEM plastic ones.
In other forums for other vehicles, there is a fear of putting a hose clamp over barbed metal fittings. The thought is that over time, with heat cycling, the clamp will cut into the hose. This could make it loose, or fail outright under pressure. This is discussed primarily for fuel hose, where leaks can be dangerous, but the pressures are higher there too.
All I'm saying is that there may be pros and cons to either metal or plastic.
Good luck,
Dave
PS I used plastic OEM
All I'm saying is that there may be pros and cons to either metal or plastic.
Good luck,
Dave
PS I used plastic OEM
The other ends of the heater hoses are attached to barbed metal fittings straight from the factory. Those ends never seen to be the problem, so that should allay your fears. The trick to both heat cycling and tees that are slightly off, dimension-wise, is to use constant tension worn clamps like the Breeze #10 constant torque clamps, which have been recommended throughout the thread.
