DIY: Replacing heater hose pipe T's *important* (13 Viewers)

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Would be a great time to replace that rear bypass too....mine let go on me, same exact thing as losing a T.

Really, I hadn't seen anything about that failing. You're talking about the metal piece with the upstanding pipe?
 
Really, I hadn't seen anything about that failing. You're talking about the metal piece with the upstanding pipe?

Yes. Either the pipe is press fit into the cast piece and can let go or the gaskets on the bottom where it bolts to the block can leak. Mine was a product *I think* someone was being too rough on it while replacing the heater T's.

EDIT: And by someone....I mean me:flush:
 
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When I took mine apart the tube literally came completely off. Coolant was gushing from there.

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Yes. Either the pipe is press fit into the cast piece and can let go or the gaskets on the bottom where it bolts to the block can leak. Mine was a product *I think* someone was being too rough on it while replacing the heater T's.

EDIT: And by someone....I mean me:flush:

I see you posted a pic, but where is this in the engine bay? Pic would help so I can check it all in one go when I do the Ts.

Thank you!
 
So is SOP to do the Ts, all hoses and clamps too?
Clamps are reusable, new hoses if swollen or never replaced before, and if its been more than 3 yrs since your last coolant flush, replace the coolant.
 
Personally, I would buy the hoses and the tees. It’s obvious that the tees are leaking and most likely haven’t been touched in years. The clamp ears are pointing down which leads me to believe they have never been touched since that’s how they come from the factory. I would cut out the old tees so you don’t risk having one break and the plastic crumbles end up in your cooling system. The hose part numbers are available here in this thread. Just loosely assemble the tees and hoses based on the existing hoses. Then cut out the old tees and reassemble the new tees with the clamps on your workbench or tailgate. I used one these to cut out the old tees. Craftsman Edge Utility Cutters 009-37300

Just be sure to not cut too close to the firewall since that’s where the heater core hardlines connects to the tees, you don’t want to damage the heater core.
 
I used a utility knife with a hooked blade to remove the old hoses. Made it quite easy.
 
Funny story... I’ve had my truck for a little over 2 years and I’ve driven it over 80k miles in that time. Two days ago, I was reading a bunch of posts on mud, and I noticed that you guys seem to think replacing these heater Ts is of the upmost importance. So, two days ago, I ordered heater Ts at my local dealer. Yesterday, as I was cruising gently down Park Avenue, a heater T exploded, sending steam pouring out of the engine bay in full display of all the properly rich people, and dumped coolant all the way til I parked it in a nearby lot. The odds?!??
 
Yikes! Did you avoid any major damage?

I’ve read some people ending up replacing their engines because of the Ts. I really hope you avoided any major damage.

I finally have all the parts, but am away on vacation. I plan to replace Ts, hoses, and clamps as soon as I get home. My hoses and Ts look fine, but I’m going to replace them anyway. I really do not want to take any chances.

Funny story... I was cruising gently down Park Avenue, a heater T exploded, sending steam pouring out of the engine bay in full display of all the properly rich people, and dumped coolant all the way til I parked it in a nearby lot. The odds?!??
 
Yikes! Did you avoid any major damage?

I’ve read some people ending up replacing their engines because of the Ts. I really hope you avoided any major damage.

I finally have all the parts, but am away on vacation. I plan to replace Ts, hoses, and clamps as soon as I get home. My hoses and Ts look fine, but I’m going to replace them anyway. I really do not want to take any chances.

Everything seems fine! I pulled over after 30 seconds, so probably not enough time to cause problems. If I had the radio blasting and I was going 80mph, I might not have noticed til the engine had overheated though.
 
So looking at the part number diagrams for some of the hoses (one printed from Toyota one printed from Lexus), the one from Toyota has a star next to one of the part numbers with A and B options?

2006 LX470 here
(And I gotta do this for a 99LC as well)

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I think you might have read it incorrectly. See below. The Type A/B are pipes are also non-applicable to your 2006 model.

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Can you post the Gates part numbers for the noted hose parts?

View attachment 1434589

Just went through finding parts for going the non-OEM route, figured I'd share what I found... Because I went with smaller-than-OEM-tees, I thought it prudent to source the proper size hoses in as close to stock shape as possible rather than just clamp down as hard as I could on OEM hoses and hope for the best. Like I mentioned in my personal thread, I don't like the idea of getting stranded somewhere and not being able to get specialty hoses; I would much rather be able to use a hose that any redneck at any shop can get me on a day's notice.

Tees: 84543. Can be bought multiple places, including but not limited to Amazon (as mentioned above), Advance, O'Reilly, and Napa. I bought mine locally at O'Reilly Auto Parts and got them same day, ymmv.

Hoses: Gates 19082 and 18622.

Hose 19082 is 5/8" ID (same as the pass through OD on the 84543 tee fittings), and can be cut up to replace the four upper hoses that connect the engine to the heater core, and gets rid of the 90 degree bend hose.
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Hose 18622 is 1/2" ID (same as the tee OD on the 84543 tee fittings), and can be cut up to replace the two lower hoses that connect to the rear heater lines.
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@LandCruiserPhil was just referencing this thread on FB and noticed your question about those two hoses, oops.
 
Replaced the Ts, hoses, and reused the clamps on my 2000 a couple of weeks ago. It was kind of a pain in the butt, but glad I don't have to worry about it for a long time.

The driver's side T disintegrated when I tried to remove it. Glad I did the hoses too.
 

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