DIY rear floor pan using a Bead roller?

[rustED71]

Hi, I'm new to FJ40's, I've been around the mini trucks mostly and have owned alot of 79-88' trucks and 4runners. I recently purchased my first a 71' FJ40. It appears to have good bones, and looks to be basically stock, but has rust issues in the usual places especially in the rear floor and rear sill area. I have priced some replacement panels and got a little sticker shock. Prices seem to be all over from $230 to $500+ for a replacement floor (not including shipping). That leads me to my question. Have any of you made your own rear floor pan using a beadroller to replicate the original ribbed floor pattern? If so how did it turn out, and was the floor rigid enough? I know the original parts are stamped and I won't be able to get the depth of the ridges as deep as the originals, but I have a bending brake and the beadroller, I'm thinking $50 in materials and a little labor would be worth the effort and save some $$$ for other areas that need attention. I want to keep it "stock looking" in appearance, but this will be more of a restomod type build, not a 100% correct nuts and bolts restoration. Also does anyone know what the thickness of these panels are? I found one site that said their floor pans were 18 gauge, which would work great, I've worked with alot of 18g in the past, I believe my beadroller is rated up to 16g. Thanks in advance!

 

[Splangy]

Those prices aren’t bad for a factory looking floor pan. I’ve made ribs using a bead roller and it’s not easy to get the lines straight. The ends also present very difficult challenges. I’d use a bed roller to make patch panels here and there, but would never attempt to make a complete rear floor pan from one. You’re likely to have very wavy looking ribs. I’ve since made my own dies for making some of the shorter ribs in a press, but only because those aftermarket panels aren’t available.

 

[rustED71]

I like the idea of using a press and dies to make your own panels, maybe someday Ill
be able to do that. I think I have enough practice that I can keep the ribs straight and not come out wavy. I guess my main concern is if I try to make the ribs too deep it's going to distort the floor panel more, maybe that's what you were referring to in your reply, I might have misinterpreted it. I'm wondering if I go shallow will it be enough to keep it rigid and add enough structurally to the floor to keep it strong? I guess for $50 worth of materials it would be worth the experimentation of trying to do one, lol. Thank you Splangy for your reply.

Just for a reference, here are a panels I have done in the past with a beadroller, but I haven't done anything that has been structural like a floor.

 

[Krondor]

That is some pretty amazing bead roller work. You should post your setup.

 

[rustED71]

It took me awhile to figure out how to post pics..here are a few of my 71' the way it looked the day I picked it up fresh off the farm so to speak, lol.

 

[Splangy]

That is some pretty amazing bead roller work. You should post your setup.

X2. I’d say you already know what your capabilities are regarding this project.

 

[rustED71]

That is some pretty amazing bead roller work. You should post your setup.

Thank you for the kind words Krondor. I'm using a Baileigh 36" model beadroller. I built my own table for it. I have a few sets of dies for it but I usually just use my Art dies for everything. The panels above are 20 gauge cold rolled steel. Here is a pic of a shortened tailgate I did for a guys FJ40 turned into a FJ45 rock crawler/truggy, and a pic of the Art Die setup I used for them.

 

[middlecalf]

Given your skills, I'd say go for it! But I'd probably try 16g for the floor panels.

 

[rustED71]

Given your skills, I'd say go for it! But I'd probably try 16g for the floor panels.

X2. I’d say you already know what your capabilities are regarding this project.

Thanks for the input guys. I guess I was just looking to see if anyone had tried it before, what kind of success, or problems they encountered or things they might do differently. I also was wondering about the thickness of material I should use. My beadroller is rated for up to 16g , but I have never tried it. 18g cold rolled steel is the thickest material I've used so far and it takes alot of force on the dies and multiple passes to get a deep step. I don't think I can come close to the depth of the original stamped peices, but I'll probably go ahead with this project and give it a shot. Thanks for the input and encouragement fellas, I'll be starting a build thread and post updates of this project come spring once I get the Landcruiser's moved from storage to my shop.

 

[thebigredrocker]

Wow, incredible work. I hope you have time to post up your floor panel project. While I’m thinking of it, I’ll post a link and few pics from Duffontap’s thread.
Making Rear Quarters: If a fabricator can do it, how hard can it be?

Rear quarter jig

 

[rustED71]

Wow, incredible work. I hope you have time to post up your floor panel project. While I’m thinking of it, I’ll post a link and few pics from Duffontap’s thread.
Making Rear Quarters: If a fabricator can do it, how hard can it be?

Thanks for the compliment and for the link to that thread. I just read through it, very inspirational work! I'm hoping my rear quarters are salvageable with minimal patching required (we will see), but if not that thread would definitely come in handy as I'd rather attempt to make my own vs buying them. I got another blue FJ40 thrown in when with my white 71' when I bought it. Its pretty rough shape, but I think the front cowl is solid. I was thinking it might make a good project for a custom built FJ45 cab with maybe a 6" stretch for legroom. I like Duffontap's jig he built for the radius corners, that might come in really handy!

 

[MiniMe]

I like the idea of using a press and dies to make your own panels, maybe someday Ill
be able to do that. I think I have enough practice that I can keep the ribs straight and not come out wavy. I guess my main concern is if I try to make the ribs too deep it's going to distort the floor panel more, maybe that's what you were referring to in your reply, I might have misinterpreted it. I'm wondering if I go shallow will it be enough to keep it rigid and add enough structurally to the floor to keep it strong? I guess for $50 worth of materials it would be worth the experimentation of trying to do one, lol. Thank you Splangy for your reply.

Just for a reference, here are a panels I have done in the past with a beadroller, but I haven't done anything that has been structural like a floor.

Mister, You are an artist with a Bead Roller. Your bed is approx...15 ga. will your roller handle 14-16ga?

 

[rustED71]

Mister, You are an artist with a Bead Roller. Your bed is approx...15 ga. will your roller handle 14-16ga?

Thank you for the compliment. I got into beadrolling after purchased my last 1st Gen 4runner and all the plastic interior panels were brittle and cracked. So I started making my own and selling some here and there. I've been beadrolling off and on now for about a year and a half. I've only worked with steel, I haven't even attempted aluminum yet, so I feel like I still have alot to learn, but it's a fun process. I believe my beadroller is rated for up to 16 gauge. I need to just buy some and see how it works on it, so far 18 gauge is the thickest I've worked with.

Here's a couple more "Toyota" panels I've done:

 

[MiniMe]

Your art is tremendous. I have a beadroller. only rated for 18 gauge. Have been afraid to try 16 ga. I could use a new Dash for my '84 SR5 Diesel, If your interested in another project.

 

[rustED71]

Your art is tremendous. I have a beadroller. only rated for 18 gauge. Have been afraid to try 16 ga. I could use a new Dash for my '84 SR5 Diesel, If your interested in another project.

Thank you. I've considered making some dash pieces, I just don't think I have all the necessary tools for a project like that yet...maybe after I get my tax return, lol
What are you needing the dash pad area or are you talking like a full custom dash?

 

[1MOA]

You have mad skills.
Makes some panels and start selling them.

 

[Tancruiser]

Agreed

 

[rustED71]

1MOA & Tancruiser

Thanks guys!

 

[White Stripe]

The factory floor beads are about 1/4" deep. Personally I feel like it's barely strong enough. I've seen some factory floors in 40s warped from not handling the weight. @metalshaper makes his own floors as well as everything else. I'm not sure he uses a bead roller though.

 

[rustED71]

The factory floor beads are about 1/4" deep. Personally I feel like it's barely strong enough. I've seen some factory floors in 40s warped from not handling the weight. @metalshaper makes his own floors as well as everything else. I'm not sure he uses a bead roller though.

I have read through Metalshaper's thread, he is very talented! I reread his thread last night and it sounds like he is using 16 gauge for new body he is building. I think I'll try 16g for the floor. I probably won't get the raised ribs close to 1/4" deep but hopefully it will be rigid enough using that thick of material.