IIRC, the flat part was designed to be on the bottom to fit european car headlights
DIY Land Cruiser Projector Retrofit (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter yuselneim
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I'm starting on this project today after getting all the parts. I also got some 9005: Morimoto 2Stroke 2.0 for the bottom slot. Can anyone confirm that these are the right high beam splitters to use? They were not included in the kit.
https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Motorsports-universal-splitter-headlight/dp/B06Y2KDHK4
Cheers!
https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Motorsports-universal-splitter-headlight/dp/B06Y2KDHK4
Cheers!
they could, but these are much higher quality and cheaper. (sold individually, so order two)
High Beam Splitters
Thanks, purchased! Last question.. This is what I bought:
Bi-Xenon: Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III CRK-H1 1 $270.00
2 x Bi-Xenon: Morimoto Mini H1 LHD (7.0) $119.00 PR10
2 x Mini Gatling Gun $1.00 S10
2 x 35w / AMP: Morimoto XB Ballast $100.00 BL11
2 x H1: XB 4500K $25.00 B211
1 x HD Relay: 9005/9006/9012/H10 $25.00 H10
This setup seems to point to page 5 (Externally-Wired w/HD Relay Harness) diagram documentation:
https://www.theretrofitsource.com/media/custom/upload/File-1473952402.pdf
Is this the accurate wiring diagram I need to follow?
I've done timing belts and had less questions... This electrical stuff confuses me...
Correct.
I've done the full retrofit on my last 2000 LC, so I'll be glad to help. Once you lay the harness out it is pretty easy. TRS may include the high beam splitters in the kit, so maybe wait and see before buying more
Here's the how to thread from years ago, but everything still applies.
How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.
Last edited:
But the tabs on the shroud don't line up to the holes on the projector!?
i don't understand your last sentence. The shrouds fit perfectly fine. I actually don't mind the flat part being on top. makes it look meaner.
The Depos i got have a rubber cap too, i cut them the same way you did yours. Mine are D2S as well. I wanted the best "easy" projectors, and the D2S were it.
What housing is this? i had to cut the Depo one piece i got for my 03. They're made for H7 bulbs and have a rubber cover on them that i had to cut.
Now that i'm looking at yours, it seems you're using oem housings with 9006 bulbs. It looks like my oem pre 06 light.
I didn't know there were replicas out there with different bulb bases. The stock back housing seal, the 83mm one that fits 9006 and 9005 bases isn't possible to use if you thread mount the D2S.
the depo 06 and 07 are the same as oem. I have a few sets mixed and matched after an accident, and a professional d2s that I'm going off this install sitting here to compare with.
I was wondering why no one ever mentioned needing a different back housing seal. Seeme like everyone cuts a big bowl out and uses screws (lightwerkz) or just slathers on the JB weld.
picture is an old d2s
the depo 06 and 07 are the same as oem. I have a few sets mixed and matched after an accident, and a professional d2s that I'm going off this install sitting here to compare with.
I was wondering why no one ever mentioned needing a different back housing seal. Seeme like everyone cuts a big bowl out and uses screws (lightwerkz) or just slathers on the JB weld.
picture is an old d2s
Done! It wasn't bad at all. I still need to finalize aiming, install the wiring relay kit and figure out why my driver's side isn't as bright as the passenger.
So all in all this is what is used,
DEPO 1 piece headlights for 98-05 LC100 from @ranma21
Morimoto Mini D2S projectors from TRS
Morimoto Iris shrouds
Morimoto 55w Ballasts
Morimoto XB35 6500k bulbs (apparantly they drop by 1000k at 55w vs 35w)
Morimoto MOTOHOLD2RS
Stock H7 High beam bulbs with Morimoto 2stroke LED's on the way.
So all in all this is what is used,
DEPO 1 piece headlights for 98-05 LC100 from @ranma21
Morimoto Mini D2S projectors from TRS
Morimoto Iris shrouds
Morimoto 55w Ballasts
Morimoto XB35 6500k bulbs (apparantly they drop by 1000k at 55w vs 35w)
Morimoto MOTOHOLD2RS
Stock H7 High beam bulbs with Morimoto 2stroke LED's on the way.
Last edited:
Nice work! Looks great.
page 4 @WickedPickle
Debating if I should attempt with black depos or pay someone to do it. What’s the skill level here? Could someone with a short temper and stupid fingers fumble their way through?
I like the way you think
I think I'm going to go for it. The kit is $270 and shipping my lights to someone and having it done would be about $700. The good news is after I destroy my depos I can ship my OEM headlights in and only be out $1300!
I'm gonna go for the black shroud though.
I'm gonna go for the black shroud though.
Has anyone done a mini H1 retrofit with shrouds other than the gattling gun in the OEM housings?
I love the depo retrofits and that's my ideal, but just a little out of my reach.
I love the depo retrofits and that's my ideal, but just a little out of my reach.
@knewstance - I think the answer is no, and the reason is that the gatling shroud has the smallest diameter out of the shroud options. Or at least it did at the time I did my conversion. They show dimension detail for every shroud, so you can double check that. Even at the smallest diameter, you have to dremel into the top of the stock housing to fit the gatling (sounds intimidating but its really straightforward).
On that note/piece of advice - dremel all the way up to the top of the stock housing. If you don't, you will limit the range of motion that your mounted projectors can be aimed. In my case, I didn't take enough of the housing out, so I can't aim my projectors up as much as I want due to the top of the shroud being blocked by by the bottom of my dremel line. If that makes sense. I can post a picture if it helps explain.
One other thing if I had to do it over again - I would have gone with the higher powered 50W ballasts and bulbs vs. 35W. My concern was heat from the 50W melting the housing (apparently thats a risk). But my 35W setup doesn't run very hot at all, so I think 50W would be fine. Their best sale is end of year, so if you can wait for that you will save yourself a bundle.
On that note/piece of advice - dremel all the way up to the top of the stock housing. If you don't, you will limit the range of motion that your mounted projectors can be aimed. In my case, I didn't take enough of the housing out, so I can't aim my projectors up as much as I want due to the top of the shroud being blocked by by the bottom of my dremel line. If that makes sense. I can post a picture if it helps explain.
One other thing if I had to do it over again - I would have gone with the higher powered 50W ballasts and bulbs vs. 35W. My concern was heat from the 50W melting the housing (apparently thats a risk). But my 35W setup doesn't run very hot at all, so I think 50W would be fine. Their best sale is end of year, so if you can wait for that you will save yourself a bundle.
