DIY Land Cruiser Projector Retrofit (1 Viewer)

[reznunt]

Being bi-xenon, there is no need for stock high beams, they are literally doing nothing if the system is set up correctly.

I beg to differ... I have my high beam setup wired to flip the bixenon shields out of the way as well as kick on my 100W LED high beam bulbs. With both, it turns night into day. I drive around waiting for someone to cut me off just so I can show them the power of a hundred suns.

 

[dsw1020]

I beg to differ... I have my high beam setup wired to flip the bixenon shields out of the way as well as kick on my 100W LED high beam bulbs. With both, it turns night into day. I drive around waiting for someone to cut me off just so I can show them the power of a hundred suns.

Do you by chance have a build thread for this mod or pics of your setup. I am really interested in an led setup but can't find any information. Thanks!

 

[reznunt]

Do you by chance have a build thread for this mod or pics of your setup. I am really interested in an led setup but can't find any information. Thanks!

Sorry, I don't have a build thread. The HID portion of my install is the same as the rest of the retrofit threads.

The LED high beam bulbs are plug and play. I have the type with the fans on the back of the bulb, but the type with heat sinks on the back would probably be more reliable against debris. Mine are almost 2 years old and working great.

 

[yuselneim]

I beg to differ... I have my high beam setup wired to flip the bixenon shields out of the way as well as kick on my 100W LED high beam bulbs. With both, it turns night into day. I drive around waiting for someone to cut me off just so I can show them the power of a hundred suns.

I use my high beams a lot because the roads here are pretty poorly lit and I don't want to blind people more than I already am haha

 

[bamabrock]

Use this high beam splitter to activate the stock high beams and the solenoid in the projector to allow it to go into high beam mode. Two high beam lights for $5 is a no brainer.
High Beam Splitters

 

[reznunt]

Use this high beam splitter to activate the stock high beams and the solenoid in the projector to allow it to go into high beam mode. Two high beam lights for $5 is a no brainer.
High Beam Splitters

And it's included in the Morimoto kit!

 

[lt1fire]

And it's included in the Morimoto kit!

Got a link to the kit? my lights suck on my truck

 

[reznunt]

Got a link to the kit? my lights suck on my truck

I used this kit:

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/c...al-kits/bixenon-morimoto-mini-h1-stage-3.html

I'd wait til Black Friday though. IIRC my brother-in-law got a 20% discount last year.

BTW, if anyone has tried anything else other than the Mini's and have gotten them to fit in the glass housings, please speak up! I'd love to run OEM projectors but there is so little room in the housings.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Nice write up @yuselneim -

I'm gearing up to tackle this upgrade myself on my '01 LC. I have a couple of questions for anyone who has blazed this trail:

1. Is it possible to retrofit an additional Mini H1 Stage III in the OE high beam bulb location for a total of 2 projectors on each side? I've seen this done with the Depo aftermarket core but not with the OE core. i'm guessing there is a reason for that but wanted to ask the question. Also seems overkill but seems like it would have an appealing finished look, and nicely fill up the remaining half of the low/high beam section of the core.

2. @reznunt mentioned above using plug and play (PNP) LED's to upgrade the high beams. Do those still function as DRL's when not in high beam mode? If not, is that because the DRL voltage is too weak to fire the LED or did you delete the DRL voltage/signal altogether? If so how? Ideally I'd like to PNP LED's to match low beam color while maintaining DRL functionality, is that possible?

3. Whats everybody doing with the bulb sandwiched between the low/high beam section and the amber blinker section? Also upgrading to LED I assume, doing anything with the old janky shroud covering that location? Shroud seems awkward and in my case slightly discolored...

4. Fogs - I assume upgrading to LED's as well to match bi-xenon HID color? If not what? Also - anybody know how to get the fogs to stay 'on' when high beams are on? I've heard you need to bend a fuse pin or two...

5. Lastly - 35w or 55w ballasts? Seems like most are opting for 35w, do 55's run too hot for this application?

 

[yuselneim]

Nice write up @yuselneim -

I'm gearing up to tackle this upgrade myself on my '01 LC. I have a couple of questions for anyone who has blazed this trail:

1. Is it possible to retrofit an additional Mini H1 Stage III in the OE high beam bulb location for a total of 2 projectors on each side? I've seen this done with the Depo aftermarket core but not with the OE core. i'm guessing there is a reason for that but wanted to ask the question. Also seems overkill but seems like it would have an appealing finished look, and nicely fill up the remaining half of the low/high beam section of the core.

2. @reznunt mentioned above using plug and play (PNP) LED's to upgrade the high beams. Do those still function as DRL's when not in high beam mode? If not, is that because the DRL voltage is too weak to fire the LED or did you delete the DRL voltage/signal altogether? If so how? Ideally I'd like to PNP LED's to match low beam color while maintaining DRL functionality, is that possible?

3. Whats everybody doing with the bulb sandwiched between the low/high beam section and the amber blinker section? Also upgrading to LED I assume, doing anything with the old janky shroud covering that location? Shroud seems awkward and in my case slightly discolored...

4. Fogs - I assume upgrading to LED's as well to match bi-xenon HID color? If not what? Also - anybody know how to get the fogs to stay 'on' when high beams are on? I've heard you need to bend a fuse pin or two...

5. Lastly - 35w or 55w ballasts? Seems like most are opting for 35w, do 55's run too hot for this application?

1. I think that would be a reeeally tight fit. As-is the projector is nearly touching the glass cover and protrudes into the inferior space. 2. No idea since I didn't wire them back. 3. I just left that like it was 4. I never use my fogs now but You can upgrade to LED or regular 6K bulbs if you want. 5. I think 35W is enough TBH. If you want something brighter after doing that I'd just get a light bar.

 

[gungriffin]

If you haven't done this yet, it might be a great time to switch out to the Depo headlights.

Also, wait until you see how much light these put out. It is SO MUCH more than the stock bulbs. You could go with a crazy complex dual bulb setup, but I don't think that you would gain much.

 

[rraedeke]

Good morning - I retrofitted my 1998 over the weekend with the exact set up as listed in the OP. What I am finding is that I'm having trouble adjusting the lights high enough. It looks like the top edge of the projectors are hitting the glass lens and pushing them down. It appears there isn't enough room inside for the projectors to fit properly. Clearly incorrect as it's been done. What am I missing?

 

[yuselneim]

Good morning - I retrofitted my 1998 over the weekend with the exact set up as listed in the OP. What I am finding is that I'm having trouble adjusting the lights high enough. It looks like the top edge of the projectors are hitting the glass lens and pushing them down. It appears there isn't enough room inside for the projectors to fit properly. Clearly incorrect as it's been done. What am I missing?

Maybe you didn't sand down the plastic enough and it's not going all the way back? Something I did by eye was sand the back at a slight angle so I had to adjust less afterwards. However, if the projector does not hit the glass once it's in, I don't think it should have any issues when adjusting since IIRC the whole piece moves together (not including the glass)

Bottom line: Check that your adjusters are working correctly and check that everything is set as far back as it will go, as clearances are super tight as you noticed.

PS: The adjusters take A LOT of turns to get them to move enough. Try adjusting before putting the glass housing back on to rule out that possibilty.

 

[rraedeke]

I sanded down the back side and left about 1/8". I didn't sand or cut into the front side, which would be the only way to increase the space inside the housing. I did use the thin silicone washer between the projector and the lens. If I removed that I could get another 32nd, but nothing major.

I tried to adjust the passenger side using the two screws last night, but didn't get it to move enough. I'll give it another attempt tonight.
I thought I might need to shim the entire bottom of the housing forward to kick the angle up. Then I could fine tune the projector with the screws... Just need more time to play around with it.

I'll admit to sealing the fixtures up too quickly and not completing a night test with the glass off. This would have been very helpful to see where things landed. I figured I could handle all the adjustments after the fact. The rotation may be the most interesting to accomplish from the backside...

The good news was that from what I saw, once the lights are adjusted, they are going to work out great. I am looking forward to driving on I-70 through the mountains on a dark night and not overdriving the lights.... at 60MPH!

 

[bamabrock]

Good morning - I retrofitted my 1998 over the weekend with the exact set up as listed in the OP. What I am finding is that I'm having trouble adjusting the lights high enough. It looks like the top edge of the projectors are hitting the glass lens and pushing them down. It appears there isn't enough room inside for the projectors to fit properly. Clearly incorrect as it's been done. What am I missing?

You may need to trim the housing where it meets the top of the shroud. My pics in the original thread are down but it doesn't take much.
How To: HID+Projector Retrofit on a 100 Series.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Late to the game on this, but @bamabrock is 100% correct -

Used a Dremel to notch out a moon shape into the trim/reflective housing directly above the Gatling shroud. I also vertically adjusted the lights all the way up to make sure I had room to cover all adjustment settings. If you don't do this, you probably will come up short and your lights will aim down too far.

Completed my retro in January, and have been meaning to give a shout out to @bamabrock , @yuselneim , @2000UZJ , @reznunt and many more who have contributed great input and info into this project. The results are fantastic, and as many others have already said, my favorite upgrade for the $ by far to date. The following ran me just under $500 and approx 10-15 hours:

* Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III (low beam/high beam)
* 9005: Morimoto 2Stroke (DRL/high beam)
* T10/194: XB LED (White) - removed the stock shroud between low/high housing and side marker

Additionally the harness that @bamabrock mentions above made for a seamless plug and play solution to get the projector solenoids to coordinate with the high beams. Someone commented on some string that this combination of open-solenoid projector + 2Stroke firing at the same time is like unleashing the power of 1,000 suns (was that you @bamabrock ?) and indeed, it is and its amazing!

 

[yuselneim]

Late to the game on this, but @bamabrock is 100% correct -

Used a Dremel to notch out a moon shape into the trim/reflective housing directly above the Gatling shroud. I also vertically adjusted the lights all the way up to make sure I had room to cover all adjustment settings. If you don't do this, you probably will come up short and your lights will aim down too far.

Completed my retro in January, and have been meaning to give a shout out to @bamabrock , @yuselneim , @2000UZJ , @reznunt and many more who have contributed great input and info into this project. The results are fantastic, and as many others have already said, my favorite upgrade for the $ by far to date. The following ran me just under $500 and approx 10-15 hours:

* Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III (low beam/high beam)
* 9005: Morimoto 2Stroke (DRL/high beam)
* T10/194: XB LED (White) - removed the stock shroud between low/high housing and side marker

Additionally the harness that @bamabrock mentions above made for a seamless plug and play solution to get the projector solenoids to coordinate with the high beams. Someone commented on some string that this combination of open-solenoid projector + 2Stroke firing at the same time is like unleashing the power of 1,000 suns (was that you @bamabrock ?) and indeed, it is and its amazing!

View attachment 1700962 View attachment 1700963 View attachment 1700964

Awesome job! Might have to make some changes to my setup after seeing that high beam haha

 

[Cman]

orimoto Mini H1 Stage III

* Morimoto Mini H1 Stage III (low beam/high beam)
* 9005: Morimoto 2Stroke (DRL/high beam)
* T10/194: XB LED (White) - removed the stock shroud between low/high housing and side marker


View attachment 1700962 View attachment 1700963 View attachment 1700964

Looking at doing this upgrade! A couple questions...

1. Do the top two items go in the main housing? The 9005 goes on the bottom? In your last picture the bottom bulb doesn't look on.
2. Did you use this piece for allowing BOTH to be set on high? High Beam Splitters
3. The last bulb, is this for the "middle" housing? I can't seem to get this light "on" regardless of the settings. What is it's name/purpose?

Thanks!

 

[TorchRedTulsan]

Just spent 45 min on the phone with TRS. Super knowledgeable and helpful team over there. Got my Stage III kit ordered and they even gave me 10% off and some free wiring because I couldn't wait for the Black Friday sale. @Gnarwgn what's your hourly consulting fee for a fellow Seattleite?

 

[Gnarwgn]

@TorchRedTulsan sorry just seeing this - haha - I'd be happy to give you my pointers on getting through, and you can keep me on speed dial while you're mid-project.

Its pretty straightforward for the most part, just takes some time. Let me know if thats helpful/when you plan to do the project!

@Cman

1. Stage 3 replaces the stock low beam. The projector has the ability to double as a high beam, so to answer your 2nd question yes I used the high beam splitters which worked really nicely into the final product, and combined is what produces the insanely bright high beam effect (projectors open up 100% and 2-strokes open up 100%). Speaking of - the 2-stroke sits in place of the DRL/brights. The intent of the 2 stroke was to have this functionality. In reality, the DRL 'stroke' is pretty bright during the day (I like it, some people don't), and the high beam 'stroke' is stadium lighting, which is incredible. Really glad I added this to the mod.

2. answered that

3. Correct. If you can't get it on, its probably burned out. I see them burned out often around town, and one of mine was out when I purchased. Regarding name - its the same idea as a side marker except its obviously only on the front. I think it may have been a way to do something with an otherwise open/useless core space, not entirely sure. It also only turns on when your low beams are on, otherwise its off.

Just spent 45 min on the phone with TRS. Super knowledgeable and helpful team over there. Got my Stage III kit ordered and they even gave me 10% off and some free wiring because I couldn't wait for the Black Friday sale. @Gnarwgn what's your hourly consulting fee for a fellow Seattleite?