- Thread starter
- #21
If you made it this far, don't worry, there's lots more coming and no more cup holders! 
Builds Dissent's Build Thread (Pic Heavy)
- Thread starter Dissent
- Start date
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- Joined
- Mar 24, 2010
- Threads
- 23
- Messages
- 456
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
- Website
- www.gorillaindustries.com.au
Wow, US cruisers get a subwoofer in that center console???
You must be really thirsty
- Thread starter
- #24
Only the Lexus models. It's a whopping 4" subwoofer mind you. I didn't even notice when I removed it. There's not much storage in that console because of the giant woofer cabinet and CD changer. More space to install 12v and 110v sources.
- Thread starter
- #25
I also carry a dozen water bottles in the fridge.
- Thread starter
- #26
Upcoming Topics (as time allows)
- Distribution Panel, Wiring, Fuse Blocks and Relays
- Side Panel Clips
- Backup Lights (twice)
- Satellite Dish Mount for Tablet, Phone, HAM, Scanguage II
- Center Console Inverter
- Sleeping Platform Tests
- Puma Compressor & LCP Puma Mounts and Spare Tire Carrier
- Diehard Platinum AGM Battery
- Water Bricks on Modified LCP Puma Mount
- Prinsu Rack
- Driver's Seat Cushion Pad Replacement
- TJM 50mm Linear Lift, Icon Stage 1 Shocks
- Driveline Vibration Madness - Double Cardan Driveshaft Adventures - Driveline Angles
- Transfer Case Crossmember Spacer
- Metal Tech Adjustable Lower Control Arms
- YodaTEQ Burrito Tray
- OEM Alternator Replacement
- New Bearings for Rear Third Member
- White Knuckle Sliders
- Custom Aluminum Switch Panel
- Hood Prop Rod v1.0
- Poor Man's REI Roof Top Tent and Folding Platform
- Milk Crate Sleeping Platform
- Auxiliary Radiator Fan
- New Air Compressor Pulley Bearing
- Solar Power v1.0
- Birfield Overhaul #2 - Part Time Kit
- Four Tone GM Horns (updated to 200 series horns)
- Firewall Steering Shaft Seal
- Prinsu Rack Adjustments and Side LED Lighting
- Driver's Door Panel Repair
- L-Track and Accessories
- Rigid Tool Boxes
- Spare Tire Leveling Kit
- Continuing Adventures with the Double Cardan Driveshaft
- Satellite Dish Mount Improvements and Blue Sea USB Power
- Wit's End Battery Disconnect
- Victron Battery Monitor
- Sequoia 150 Amp Alternator and Photoman's Custom Bracket and Pulley
- Cargo Area L-Track
- Bumper Lights (now backup lights)
- ARB Fridge Wiring
- 110v Distribution and Battery Charger
- Telescoping Ladder and Subwoofer L-Track Mount
- True Parallel Flow Condenser and Air Conditioning Overhaul
- Magnetic Panel Fasteners
- New AGM Battery
- Remote Start
- Genuine Roof Top Tent (RTT)
- @kelly saad Grill, Projector Headlights and Switchback LEDs
- Amplifier Swap
- Dual Android Tablets
- RTT Upgrades v1.0 and Mattress Woes
- Victron Solar Controller Upgrade
- OEM Caliper Swap and Brake Bleeding Fun
- Marlin Crawler Steering Upgrade
- Steering Box Red Head Gears Replacement
- Icon Shocks v2.0
- Washer Bottle Relocation
- Solar Panel Upgrade
- Relocation to Tennessee
- Sun Roof Drain Woes
- Hood Prop Rod v2.0
- RTT Upgrades v2.0
- Whatever else I'm currently working on...(Wit's End Turbo?)
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Outsane
Supporting Vendor
One hell of a list!
Watching
Watching
Looking forward to watching this one!
- Thread starter
- #30
For the front speakers, I went with the well proven Polk Audio db651s Slim-Mount 6.5" Coaxials. I had already used the full sized db651 6.5" Coaxials in my old Dodge. I installed a set of "Bass Blockers" from Crutchfield to filter out the low frequencies. The Polks have a max RMS rating of 55W which pairs perfectly with my old Alpine MRV-F450 amp generating 50W RMS per channel for the front and rears.
I painted the grilles using my trusty Rustoleum Textured Bronze #7226. I surface mounted the speakers on top of the door panel by marking the grille mounting holes then drilling right through the door panel and the steel door. I mounted the speaker and grille on the outside of the door panel. The fit is perfect, I have about 1/8" before the grille hits the dashboard. They almost look like they belong there.
I know this is an awful pic but I apparently don't have one of just the grille. I'll update later.
The real trick of the install was running the wiring through the OEM flexible wiring tube in the door jamb. This is dang near impossible so I gave it a best shot and figure one day I'd rework it when I installed a 2nd flexible wiring tube for my door lighting and what not. I have yet to do the rework but I do have the parts. I figure it would be easiest to remove the front fenders which gives a straight shot at drilling new 3/4" holes in the door for the new flexible tube.
I use large 16 AWG speaker wire (JL Audio in this case) and wanted to pierce the inner rubber on the boot to fish it through. I fashioned up a fishing tube using a disposable solder flux brush which I reshaped using an iPhone nylon spudger (pry) tool.
The result was a sharp metal tube I could poke into the grommet and fish the large 16 AWG wire through.
I painted the grilles using my trusty Rustoleum Textured Bronze #7226. I surface mounted the speakers on top of the door panel by marking the grille mounting holes then drilling right through the door panel and the steel door. I mounted the speaker and grille on the outside of the door panel. The fit is perfect, I have about 1/8" before the grille hits the dashboard. They almost look like they belong there.
I know this is an awful pic but I apparently don't have one of just the grille. I'll update later.
The real trick of the install was running the wiring through the OEM flexible wiring tube in the door jamb. This is dang near impossible so I gave it a best shot and figure one day I'd rework it when I installed a 2nd flexible wiring tube for my door lighting and what not. I have yet to do the rework but I do have the parts. I figure it would be easiest to remove the front fenders which gives a straight shot at drilling new 3/4" holes in the door for the new flexible tube.
I use large 16 AWG speaker wire (JL Audio in this case) and wanted to pierce the inner rubber on the boot to fish it through. I fashioned up a fishing tube using a disposable solder flux brush which I reshaped using an iPhone nylon spudger (pry) tool.
The result was a sharp metal tube I could poke into the grommet and fish the large 16 AWG wire through.
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- Thread starter
- #31
Using my new grommet penetration tool, I easily fed the wire through the grommet and well into the rubber tube.
Here's the metal tube poking out of the grommet, looking down at the rubber boot in the hinge area.
After an hour of trying to get it through the rest of the tube, I eventually gave up and decided to poke through the side of the tube, exposing it to the elements in the hinge area, then back into the tube at the grommet. I wrapped it with electrical tape to clean it up and protect it a bit. Not my proudest wiring but I knew it would be redone eventually.
Here's the metal tube poking out of the grommet, looking down at the rubber boot in the hinge area.
After an hour of trying to get it through the rest of the tube, I eventually gave up and decided to poke through the side of the tube, exposing it to the elements in the hinge area, then back into the tube at the grommet. I wrapped it with electrical tape to clean it up and protect it a bit. Not my proudest wiring but I knew it would be redone eventually.
- Thread starter
- #32
For the rear speakers, I really wanted to retain the OEM covers because the kids were fairly likely to damage an aftermarket setup given the amount of scuffs and dents that were on the OEM grilles. I had a set of Boston Acoustics SE45 4" 2-way speakers leftover from a never-built 2nd version of my Ammo Can speaker.
The Boston Acoustic SE45's have a max RMS rating of 55W. Again, perfect for the Alpine MRV-F450 amp generating 50W RMS per channel. Again, I used a set of "Bass Blockers" to filter out the low frequencies. I ended up prying the OEM speaker mounting ring from the speaker.
To fit the SE45's to the OEM ring, I just bent the mounting ears over, drilled some small holes and inserted the screws that came with the speakers to secure them. Very easy install, took about 30 minutes total including removing the door panel.
for sure.
They were cheap, bolted right in and sound great!
The Boston Acoustic SE45's have a max RMS rating of 55W. Again, perfect for the Alpine MRV-F450 amp generating 50W RMS per channel. Again, I used a set of "Bass Blockers" to filter out the low frequencies. I ended up prying the OEM speaker mounting ring from the speaker.
To fit the SE45's to the OEM ring, I just bent the mounting ears over, drilled some small holes and inserted the screws that came with the speakers to secure them. Very easy install, took about 30 minutes total including removing the door panel.
for sure.They were cheap, bolted right in and sound great!
- Thread starter
- #33
I have a 12 year old Alpine MRV-F450 amp which is HUGE but it works and I just keep moving it from car to car. It is 5x channel capable with an integrated crossover. I have decided that I really like this amp and the new model is half the size with slightly more output and less current consumption. Win all around. Within the next year, I'll most likely be swapping it out to make room in the wall for my solar controller and try to have a little real estate left over for future expansion.
Alpine MRV-F450 Specs:
Note the captured speed nuts on the verticals
I installed strips of foam to ensure the aluminum straps won't vibrate against the rear panel (sheet metal) on the amp.
Very securely mounted and just enough clearance for the panel. I put some more foam on the front of the amp to ensure it doesn't rattle on the wall panel.
One more pic.
Alpine MRV-F450 Specs:
- Dimensions: 16-7/16" x 2-11/16" x 9-11/16"
- 5-channel car amplifier
- 50 watts RMS x 4 + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (the configuration I'm running now)
- 60 watts RMS x 4 at 2 ohms + 200 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
- 120 watts RMS x 2 + 200 watts RMS x 1 in bridged mode
- 2-, 3-, 4-, or 5-channel output
- Tri-way capable (Tri-Way crossover required)
- Dimensions: 10-5/8"W x 2"H x 6-9/16"D
- 5-channel car amplifier
- 75 watts RMS x 4 + 250 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms
- 100 watts RMS x 4 + 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
- 200 watts RMS x 2 bridged at 4 ohms + 350 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms
- Variable high-pass filter (50-400 Hz, 12 dB/octave) on 4-channel section
- Variable low-pass filter (50-400 Hz, 24 dB/octave) on sub channel
- Variable subsonic filter (8-40 Hz, 24 dB/oct) on sub channel
- Variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz) on sub channel
- Class-D amplifier design
Note the captured speed nuts on the verticals
I installed strips of foam to ensure the aluminum straps won't vibrate against the rear panel (sheet metal) on the amp.
Very securely mounted and just enough clearance for the panel. I put some more foam on the front of the amp to ensure it doesn't rattle on the wall panel.
One more pic.
This is 0% overkill. Great work. Might need one more cup holder.
Greetings from a under-cupholdered GX 'investor'.
Greetings from a under-cupholdered GX 'investor'.
- Thread starter
- #35
I need to update this thread....sooooo many projects to add...stay tuned!
Road Apple
SILVER Star
I thought I had a long mid list !! Like the cup holders that hold a full size water bottle. Seem like I always have a water bottle rolling around the back.
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- Thread starter
- #37
Lots of life changes since I last posted on this thread but it's time to get it rolling again!
- Thread starter
- #38
Power Distribution, Relays and Fuse Blocks
After the rear quarter panel mount was in place, it was time to route power and ground then figure out what device was going on which fuse and then plan out a custom relay panel to off-load the larger loads. It turns out most every load I'm running except the ARB fridge, a 12V outlet and the solar charger are all using relays but those wouldn't come in until much later (3 years to be exact) when I finally got around to adding some lighting and the solar. I wanted to be able to run any high current load from the rear of the truck that I'd normally run from the front including my amp, jumper cables and possibly a rear winch in the future.
I decided on a 1/0 AWG cable run straight from the OEM battery location through the unused driver's firewall grommet, running across the dashboard just above the carpet line, and down the passenger side using the 1" channel under the sill plates. I had to use some extra protection to get through the c-pillar seat-belt mount which involved some split fuel line and some extra split-loom double protection on the power cable. I secured the cable from the battery to the high current post using many Adel clamps and it hasn't budged in 8 years.
All cables should be fused as close to the battery as possible (to protect the cable from shorts). I discovered the Blue Sea Systems #2151 Dual Fuse Terminal Block which attaches directly to the OEM positive battery cable screw terminal and is equipped with a #5190 300A fuse terminal.
I called on the ever reliable Tony Candela at CE Auto Electric Supply (CE Auto Electric Supply – Automotive Electrical Solutions - https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/) to build a set of custom cables using his custom high-strand cable. Each is hex crimped using heavy lugs and wrapped in Flex-Tech sheathing to avoid any abrasion damage. I didn't know exactly where I was going to install the high current positive and negative lugs so I estimated the lengths and ended up a few feet too long for the positive cable. Luckily I could gently loop the cable and secure it to my aluminum panel mounts to keep it from moving around. I estimated 21.5' on my order but probably could've done with 18-19' in hind sight.
The negative cable was run from the frame to a long 3/8" bolt drilled into the bottom of the under body (in the sunken well area) and a 2nd negative cable was attached and run to the high current lug. I used a wire wheel and white lithium grease under double-bite star washers on both sides of the body to join the cables and used the same technique on the frame, using an existing bolt hole.
I actually found my original order with the lengths.
Cable and Terminal Parts
Routing the Positive Cable
After the rear quarter panel mount was in place, it was time to route power and ground then figure out what device was going on which fuse and then plan out a custom relay panel to off-load the larger loads. It turns out most every load I'm running except the ARB fridge, a 12V outlet and the solar charger are all using relays but those wouldn't come in until much later (3 years to be exact) when I finally got around to adding some lighting and the solar. I wanted to be able to run any high current load from the rear of the truck that I'd normally run from the front including my amp, jumper cables and possibly a rear winch in the future.
I decided on a 1/0 AWG cable run straight from the OEM battery location through the unused driver's firewall grommet, running across the dashboard just above the carpet line, and down the passenger side using the 1" channel under the sill plates. I had to use some extra protection to get through the c-pillar seat-belt mount which involved some split fuel line and some extra split-loom double protection on the power cable. I secured the cable from the battery to the high current post using many Adel clamps and it hasn't budged in 8 years.
All cables should be fused as close to the battery as possible (to protect the cable from shorts). I discovered the Blue Sea Systems #2151 Dual Fuse Terminal Block which attaches directly to the OEM positive battery cable screw terminal and is equipped with a #5190 300A fuse terminal.
I called on the ever reliable Tony Candela at CE Auto Electric Supply (CE Auto Electric Supply – Automotive Electrical Solutions - https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/) to build a set of custom cables using his custom high-strand cable. Each is hex crimped using heavy lugs and wrapped in Flex-Tech sheathing to avoid any abrasion damage. I didn't know exactly where I was going to install the high current positive and negative lugs so I estimated the lengths and ended up a few feet too long for the positive cable. Luckily I could gently loop the cable and secure it to my aluminum panel mounts to keep it from moving around. I estimated 21.5' on my order but probably could've done with 18-19' in hind sight.
The negative cable was run from the frame to a long 3/8" bolt drilled into the bottom of the under body (in the sunken well area) and a 2nd negative cable was attached and run to the high current lug. I used a wire wheel and white lithium grease under double-bite star washers on both sides of the body to join the cables and used the same technique on the frame, using an existing bolt hole.
I actually found my original order with the lengths.
Cable and Terminal Parts
| Part Number | Cost | Unit | Quantity | Description |
| CUSTOM | $ 180 | ea | 1 | 21 feet 6 inches - 1/0 power (red) cable terminated in 5/16" & 3/8" HD Rings Mega Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing with Semi-Rigid Wrappable Split Braided Tubing |
| CUSTOM | $ 35 | ea | 1 | 33 inches - 1/0 ground (black) cable terminated in 3/8" & 3/8" HD Rings Mega Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing with Semi-Rigid Wrappable Split Braided Tubing |
| CUSTOM | $ 25 | ea | 1 | 18 inches - 1/0 ground (black) cable terminated in 3/8" & 3/8" HD Rings Mega Wall Adhesive Lined Heat Shrink Tubing with Semi-Rigid Wrappable Split Braided Tubing |
| CUSTOM | $ 5 | ea | 1 | 3/8" Ground Hardware (bolts, nuts, lock and star washers, etc.) |
| STUD38BLK | $ 16 | ea | 1 | 250 Amp Junction Stud With Hardware |
| STUD38RED | $ 10 | ea | 1 | 250 Amp Junction Stud With Hardware |
Routing the Positive Cable
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- Thread starter
- #39
Securing the Positive Cable at the quarter panel mount (QPM)
Negative Cable
I don't have any pics underneath the truck but may add some in the future.
Negative Cable
I don't have any pics underneath the truck but may add some in the future.
- Thread starter
- #40
Main Terminal Blocks
I went with Red and Black 250A terminals with 3/8" lugs for my primary positive and negative terminals. I believe they are Blue Sea Systems as well. The positive terminal has plenty of space but the negative terminal became full quickly yet is safely secured. I may incorporate a multi-port terminal in the future to spread the load a bit on the negative side when I do some reworks in 2022.
Main Fuse Block
For the main fuse block, I again turned to Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block featuring 12-circuits with a separate ground block. FWIW, I wire all of my gear with both positive and negative runs to ensure I use a single solid ground point. I planned on implementing solar, top/side/front/rear lights, some aux 12V sockets, an ARB fridge and have a few circuits left over.
Auxiliary Fuse Block
To facilitate fuse duties up front, I extended a dual lead 6 AWG marine grade wire with crimped and shrink wrapped heavy terminals, from the main positive lug to the passenger seat incorporating a Blue Sea Systems 5028 6-circuit fuse block without the ground block. This block manages the 300W inverter, the CB, provides power for the switch panel and 4x extra USB ports. The negative side is handled by running a single ground cable from the frame to a 5/16" bolt, using the same star washer and lithium grease approach, to which all ground points are secured.
I went with Red and Black 250A terminals with 3/8" lugs for my primary positive and negative terminals. I believe they are Blue Sea Systems as well. The positive terminal has plenty of space but the negative terminal became full quickly yet is safely secured. I may incorporate a multi-port terminal in the future to spread the load a bit on the negative side when I do some reworks in 2022.
Main Fuse Block
For the main fuse block, I again turned to Blue Sea Systems 5026 ST Blade Fuse Block featuring 12-circuits with a separate ground block. FWIW, I wire all of my gear with both positive and negative runs to ensure I use a single solid ground point. I planned on implementing solar, top/side/front/rear lights, some aux 12V sockets, an ARB fridge and have a few circuits left over.
Auxiliary Fuse Block
To facilitate fuse duties up front, I extended a dual lead 6 AWG marine grade wire with crimped and shrink wrapped heavy terminals, from the main positive lug to the passenger seat incorporating a Blue Sea Systems 5028 6-circuit fuse block without the ground block. This block manages the 300W inverter, the CB, provides power for the switch panel and 4x extra USB ports. The negative side is handled by running a single ground cable from the frame to a 5/16" bolt, using the same star washer and lithium grease approach, to which all ground points are secured.
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