Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX) (11 Viewers)

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@tbisaacs, looks like you got the trailer plug to work w/o cutting that "bracket/brace"? My 2013 LC has the same brackets. Wonder what year they eliminated them?
My 2013 land cruiser didn't have that extra piece. Weird.

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No bolted them straight on to the dissent bracket.
I got one of these laying around from a past build. Time to put it to use!
 
I didn’t use the rubber grommet. Do you have it sandwiched in there?
 
I didn’t use the rubber grommet. Do you have it sandwiched in there?
Not sure who u r asking but I didn’t use it because the included screws were too short. I don’t see there is much benefit in using the rubber grommet.

Edit: Cole at Dissent told me they don’t use the rubber backing thing either. In looking/thinking at it more, I think the only potential purpose of it would be to help isolate vibration from the lights and maybe to reduce stress on the hard plastic. I ended up replacing the screws with SS ones and as long as I was at it, got them longer and used the rubber thing.
 
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My 2013 land cruiser didn't have that extra piece. Weird.

View attachment 2909021

Really interesting difference. Not enough samples to figure if this is a model year difference or what.

Part numbers show this applicable to both LC and LX - 5163A-60010. Part description shows it as a generic reinforcement...but for what? Towing? Crash? Will have to dig later when I get home.

Curiously the original LX brochures advertise a rear crumple zone. Perhaps this little thing is it? As the frame member alone certainly is not.
 
The Toyota parts sites show that part number as only limited fitment (2008-2011). Lexus shows 2008-2013.

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Also had some 5 strand solid sprinkler wire on hand and figured that if it was good enough for direct burial, it would do fine hidden in a bumper.

FWIW, generally you shouldn’t use solid wire for automotive use. Solid wire is not designed for vibration and flexing and may fatigue over time and break. Stranded has strands of wire and can take flexing and vibration. If one small strand breaks there are many others.

That said, it will likely be fine for a long time and even if it does break, it is just your extra tail lights.
 
Hello all,
I’m about ready to pull the trigger on ordering a dissent rear bumper.
But have a couple of questions:

When you relocate the rear camera, does it change the lines in the picture that show where the wheels will travel? I find those lines to be helpful.

And

When the parking sensors are moved; do they need to be recalibrated or anything? Or is it just a physical move?
 
Parking sensors don't need to be recalibrated.
 
Hello all,
I’m about ready to pull the trigger on ordering a dissent rear bumper.
But have a couple of questions:

When you relocate the rear camera, does it change the lines in the picture that show where the wheels will travel? I find those lines to be helpful.

And

When the parking sensors are moved; do they need to be recalibrated or anything? Or is it just a physical move?
The lines are just an overlay on the feed from the camera. When you move the camera they will no longer be in perfect alignment with the wheels.
 
The lines are just an overlay on the feed from the camera. When you move the camera they will no longer be in perfect alignment with the wheels.
But if the camera is just moved down but is still centered… would the lines still be useable?
 
Hello all,
I’m about ready to pull the trigger on ordering a dissent rear bumper.
But have a couple of questions:

When you relocate the rear camera, does it change the lines in the picture that show where the wheels will travel? I find those lines to be helpful.

And

When the parking sensors are moved; do they need to be recalibrated or anything? Or is it just a physical move?
I have read that the parking sensors are very sensitive when reinstalling into Dissent bumper. DO NOT push them in with force as that will make them unusable. Enlarge the hole slightly to fit correctly. I believe that is in this thread somewhere otherwise for sure somewhere on mud. I bought a LC with front/rear Dissent bumpers already installed and have a few broken sensors and those items are spendy to replace. Quite positive the installer in Texas jacked them up.
 
I have read that the parking sensors are very sensitive when reinstalling into Dissent bumper. DO NOT push them in with force as that will make them unusable. Enlarge the hole slightly to fit correctly. I believe that is in this thread somewhere otherwise for sure somewhere on mud. I bought a LC with front/rear Dissent bumpers already installed and have a few broken sensors and those items are spendy to replace. Quite positive the installer in Texas jacked them up.
Good to know.

Can you name the installer?

I was thinking of trying the Land Cruiser Specialist in Austin to do my install.

(Don’t hate me Radman! I don’t have your skills to do it myself. Even with your excellent directions on this thread.)
 
I ditched my parking sensors in the rear. I never actually used that feature before on my 2013 so it wasn't a big deal to me
 
Good to know.

Can you name the installer?

I was thinking of trying the Land Cruiser Specialist in Austin to do my install.

(Don’t hate me Radman! I don’t have your skills to do it myself. Even with your excellent directions on this thread.)
#awkward
Just looked at the receipt and it indeed was Land Cruiser Specialist in Austin. I do not like bashing vendors so will try to dig myself out of the hole I put myself in. What I can tell you is their install was extremely well done. I believe my LC was the first Dissent front/rear they did according to the sellers. The lines they cut were spot on. Just 2 items from my limited experience with the rear bumper on my rig. 1) Enlarge holes for parking sensors or just turn them off as mine are. 2) Ensure the wings of the bumper are level otherwise the swing arms will not line up with locking latch. If you are having them do swing arms at the same time then non issue. I just added my swing arms and had issues getting them aligned. Talked to Ben and got it corrected with his advice.
 
I also killed some parking sensors trying to fit them in a too small hole. Luckily there is a switch to turn them off. Still parking 80s style and doing fine.
 
In case it helps future installers - here's a diagram of how to wire the road vision lights with a curt 2-wire to 3-wire converter. The blue wire (brake) and black wire (switched) at the plug are not used

View attachment 2881524
Wired my lights today and this was very helpful. I wired mine to the main harness going to the trailer plug harness simply because I didn't think ahead to tie into the plug harness itself. There is more room doing it this way but the other way allows you to make the whole harness on a bench which is easier than laying on your back wiring into the harness feed looms. I used this wire to run to the road vision lights:

Amazon product ASIN B0761YT36D
Here is my wiring diagram:

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382CDC6C-31EB-4546-9E46-88D28A5D8F52.jpeg
 
Wired my lights today and this was very helpful. I wired mine to the main harness going to the trailer plug harness simply because I didn't think ahead to tie into the plug harness itself. There is more room doing it this way but the other way allows you to make the whole harness on a bench which is easier than laying on your back wiring into the harness feed looms. I used this wire to run to the road vision lights:

Amazon product ASIN B0761YT36D
Here is my wiring diagram:

View attachment 2916789

View attachment 2916790

This is one of the projects I’m going to revisit this summer when it’s dry. I like the idea of tapping the harness like you did instead of the connector.
 

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