Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX)

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Thanks @radman for this thread and install writeup. Starting the install of rear bumper with dual swingouts. I've uncreated and done parts inventory. Your photos and parts listing were very helpful. I seem to be missing a couple parts (the two rear center section spacers and the table lock oval shaped part). As I am only doing the rear, and am doing it on a 2013 200, I sorted your parts list so I could check off the parts as I unpacked them. I also added the swingout strike plates to the list.

Rear
1) Swingarms
2) Swingarm Brackets
3) Tire Carrier Components
4) Rear Recovery Points
5) Rear Wings
6) Rear Wing stiffener
8) Rear Center Section
9) Swingarm reinforcements
10) Rear double nutplate
11) Tire Carrier Reinforcement
12) Rear Recovery Point Nutplate
13) tire carrier
14) Table Hinges
15) Rear Light Bracket
16) Table Stand
18) Tire Carrier
21) Rear Camera Relocation
22) Swingarm Spring Brackets
23) Trailer Plug Stiffener back plate
24) Rear Wing Washer
25) Table Lock
26) Rear Center Section Spacer
27) Tire Carrier reinforcement
35) Swing Arm Handle
36) Hi-Lift Mount
38) Tire Carrier
40) Rear Wing Stiffener
41) Swingout strike plates
7) Rear AHC Wing Stiffener (LX only)
37) AHC Bracket (LX only)
Front
17) Front Spacer
19) Winch Control Box Mount
20) License Plate Relocation Brackets
39) Radiator Protection Plate
28) Front Wings
29) Front Recovery Points
30) Front Recovery Point Caps
31) Accessory Risers
32) Front Wing Caps
33) Front Light brackets
34) Front Recovery Point Reinforcement
 
Thanks @radman for this thread and install writeup. Starting the install of rear bumper with dual swingouts. I've uncreated and done parts inventory. Your photos and parts listing were very helpful. I seem to be missing a couple parts (the two rear center section spacers and the table lock oval shaped part). As I am only doing the rear, and am doing it on a 2013 200, I sorted your parts list so I could check off the parts as I unpacked them. I also added the swingout strike plates

Ben is constantly improving his design and parts. You won’t have to tap those 2 center holes into the frame, and you won’t need those little spacers.

Also, I think me may have changed the table lock, so you should be fine.
 
Ben is constantly improving his design and parts. You won’t have to tap those 2 center holes into the frame, and you won’t need those little spacers.

Also, I think me may have changed the table lock, so you should be fine.
Thanks. I had sent Cole at Dissent the question and he told me the same thing. The table lock is now a nylon part in the hardware bag.
 
Thanks. I had sent Cole at Dissent the question and he told me the same thing. The table lock is now a nylon part in the hardware bag.
Got the OEM bumper cover off and decided to clean, wire brush and paint (POR15) the frame cross member before installing the Dissent bumper.

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Also a tarp is a great idea! My garage is gross from melting slush
Tarp was just to catch paint drips/spills. Got lucky as it was 52 today. Wintery mix coming which means freezing rain here. The 200 is essentially dry docked until March trip to NM. Adding rear bumper, snorkel and replacing starter. Possibly adding a storage plateform if time allows.
 
Great time for you guys to castrate that resonator 😉
 
Mine got the sawzaw
That’s my plan. Cutting it off is no problem but I still need a muffler shop to weld the exhaust extension and tip on.
 
So on the wiring for the rear lights, is the consensus to use the converter? I've read through this thread and the install PDF and see I could tap into the trail light harness and not use the converter. Using the converter seems like it would be easier. If you go the converter route, where do you mount it? (If that is shown in this thread, I missed it).
 
Double washers? I see in the thread mention of double washers and I see some pics of this. Why double washers? Everywhere?
 
So on the wiring for the rear lights, is the consensus to use the converter? I've read through this thread and the install PDF and see I could tap into the trail light harness and not use the converter. Using the converter seems like it would be easier. If you go the converter route, where do you mount it? (If that is shown in this thread, I missed it).

Trailers use the same wire for brake light and turn signal. If you don’t use a converter you’ll have nothing to tap for turn signals.

I plan on sticking my converter inside the wing with some VHB tape.
 
Im surprised no one has lopped off the stock hitch/crossmember and flipped it up and tucked it in 3-4" so it doesnt hang out so much. On the 80 series many of the rear bumper builds delete that and gain ALOT of clearance/ departure angle. Granted this requires alot more than simple "bolt on" but if you are going to relocate the spare out from under to gain clearance......it would make sense to lose that or tuck it in significantly,

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Im surprised no one has lopped off the stock hitch/crossmember and flipped it up and tucked it in 3-4" so it doesnt hang out so much. On the 80 series many of the rear bumper builds delete that and gain ALOT of clearance/ departure angle. Granted this requires alot more than simple "bolt on" but if you are going to relocate the spare out from under to gain clearance......it would make sense to lose that or tuck it in significantly,

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I think youd have a hard time fitting an off the shelf bumper if you did that. Tons of work for a couple of inches of clearance.
 
Made some progress. The actual bumper parts are pretty easy to install. I got a little confused on what size washers (and how many) to use and wear but it starts to make sense as you go. Got one side of the plastic cut. I took that part really slow.

The only torque specs I see in the PDF are for the swing out stiffening plates. Seems like torquing the 1/2” through bolts the hold the recover points in place is important. 1/2” grade 8 course thread spec is 80 ftlb. I think 90 or even 100 seems “right”. The holes are slotted so it’s the friction on the plates that hold the recovery points in place.

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More progress. Cut passenger side plastic and installed swing arms. A couple things o learned:

1. If you are stupid and accidentally cut the body panel tab off that the PDF instructions clearly warn you about, JB weld works pretty good. A little touch up paint and no one will every know…. :doh:

2. Pay attention to the hole alignment on the swing out reinforcement brackets. The two brackets you torque to 100 ft lbs before you got the wings. I had put the 4 bolts in to align the holes but didn’t make sure the holes were centered. The plates were bottomed out in the holes resting on the bolt threads. The result was that when I went to fit the swing arm, the holes were off enough that I couldn’t thread the bolts in. I had to drop the wing and do it again. The other side worked but was close to not working. Just make sure the holes in the plates are lined up when you torque the reinforcement plates and you will be ok.

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Tire carrier and electrical will have to wait until next weekend.

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@kcjaz I’m right with ya except both my garage and truck are much more filthy due to the all of the snow :P

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The parking sensors are an absolute pain. If there weren't holes already, I would have done it. The '08 sensors are massive, like 25-28mm in diameter. Enlarging the holes with a step bit is easy except that the aluminum is thicker than each gradation of the bit, so in trying to make a ~ 1" hole all the way through, it cuts a little bit of the next highest step.

On the center section it's easier because you can take it off and drill from front an back. Future installers, I would drill out parking sensor holes before installing wings.
 
@kcjaz I’m right with ya except both my garage and truck are much more filthy due to the all of the snow :p

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The parking sensors are an absolute pain. If there weren't holes already, I would have done it. The '08 sensors are massive, like 25-28mm in diameter. Enlarging the holes with a step bit is easy except that the aluminum is thicker than each gradation of the bit, so in trying to make a ~ 1" hole all the way through, it cuts a little bit of the next highest step.

On the center section it's easier because you can take it off and drill from front an back. Future installers, I would drill out parking sensor holes before installing wings.
Part of me is considering just putting plugs in the parking sensor holes. I always just keep the sensors off because they annoyed me every time I’d go in or out of my garage.
 
In case it helps future installers - here's a diagram of how to wire the road vision lights with a curt 2-wire to 3-wire converter. The blue wire (brake) and black wire (switched) at the plug are not used

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