Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX) (3 Viewers)

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I’ve found that the best way to trim the plastic skins (whether it’s the front facia or rear panel) is to rough cut in order to get them on the rig, and then use a 5/8” block to mark the final cut line. Then, cut the line with plastic in place.

Important: don’t forget about the Pythagorean theorem when measuring the front grill 🙄🥴.

I cut too much when I rough cut one of my wings, but I think I’ll be able to adjust the gap when I put the trim on…

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Jenga block and a multitool sitting on top is how I did it - worked like a charm
 
Question for those with a winch installed. Did the kit come with any specific adapters for it or does the Comeup just bolt right up as is? I am going to install my front bumper next weekend and am having regrets about not ordering the winch. I think I can have one arrive by Thursday but want to be sure I'm not missing anything else. A friend reminded me of a saying from Woodrow F Call - "better to have it and not need it vs need it and not have it."
 
Question for those with a winch installed. Did the kit come with any specific adapters for it or does the Comeup just bolt right up as is? I am going to install my front bumper next weekend and am having regrets about not ordering the winch. I think I can have one arrive by Thursday but want to be sure I'm not missing anything else. A friend reminded me of a saying from Woodrow F Call - "better to have it and not need it vs need it and not have it."
The winch itself will bolt directly to the bumper, but I’m not sure if dissent supplies the control box mounting bracket with the base bumper (or if it’s an add on).

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My Dissent came with that bracket. I didn't use it since I have a Superwinch and didn't need to relocate the control box. I did remove the center piece behind the grill to get it to fit on my 13 LX.

All winches have a standard bolt pattern.
 
How have folks wired the license plat light? I assume I can just splice into the harness going to the OEM lights? With no real need for the OEM lights, I wonder if they could be repurposed into rear camp lights by rewiring them to a switch that can be turned on when the hatch is open to provide light from the opened hatch?
 
How have folks wired the license plat light? I assume I can just splice into the harness going to the OEM lights? With no real need for the OEM lights, I wonder if they could be repurposed into rear camp lights by rewiring them to a switch that can be turned on when the hatch is open to provide light from the opened hatch?

I considered this but was just too complicated IMO. I just tapped the reverse light wire on the trailer harness along with what I used to tail lights. I put a set of disconnects in the middle so if I need to take off the swing arm I don’t need to cut the wires.
 
I doubt I have that...so I'll have to get in touch with Dissent to see how long that will take to get.
Confirmed I didn't have the bracket. Talked to Cole today and have one shipping on Monday. Got a Comeup 12.5rs from Toytec and doing the full bumper install tomorrow.
 
How have folks wired the license plat light? I assume I can just splice into the harness going to the OEM lights? With no real need for the OEM lights, I wonder if they could be repurposed into rear camp lights by rewiring them to a switch that can be turned on when the hatch is open to provide light from the opened hatch?
Trailer harness ‘running lights’ for the license plate.
 
Trailer harness ‘running lights’ for the license plate.
Duh. I just had it in my head I'd tie into the OEM lights when I did the camera relo. Much easier to go to the trailer harness.
 
-fished the cable down the left side panels and passed through the existing rubber grommet to get below the rig and to the center of the bumper.

-used these fancy heat shrink/solder all-in-one connectors to reattach the stock connector, and I've been really happy with them.

-install fancy bracket and top cover and voila.

- the last picture gives you an idea of the stock coverage vs bottom of the Pormido camera system.


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I'm reloing my camera today. My relo kit came with wire but it isn't long enough the way I routed it so I'm clearly not routing it the way Ben does. It would be long enough if I could just tie in to the OEM camera wires at the top where all of the wires go through the grommets. So I thought I'd just unwrap the OEM harness up there and find the same 4 little wires to tie into. Only 3 of them are there inside the grey cable. The brown wire is AWOL. There is also some kind of bare ground/signal shield wire that is looped back and not connected to the camera connector.

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Anyone know what the brown wire it goes? Power to the camera coming from the reverse light circuit?

So I could just splice in some more wire to simply get to where I cut the connector off but the bare ground/signal shield wire gave me pause. The wire Ben provided also has a bare wire in it so it makes me wonder if I need to connect the bare wires together?

The other option is to change my routing. I don't want to just run the wire out from the rubber hatch seal trim. I used the OEM wire grommet in the bottle jack storage area to get the wire out from inside and under the truck. @radman, you said you went on the left (driver) side? I haven't looked for a grommet on that side but even if there is one, I don't see that would shorten the route as you still have to get from the existing camera wire end to the top grommets.

Edit: mystery solved. Brown is ground and I can just tie into the grey cable up top.

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@radman, you said you went on the left (driver) side? I

Here’s my route. There’s a factory grommet at the Green circle.

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There is a grommet on both sides at the rear quarter (floor jack, under inverter).
Lx570 the ahc reservoir is under the jack side, but it’s still doable.
 
Thanks guys. My route is going to work. The OEM cable is shielded cable and so is the cable Ben provides. I’m tying in up top and will have shielded cable the whole way. I’m guessing this is how Ben may do it. Nothing wrong with tying in at the original camera location, in fact it would be easier if you have enough cable.

I’d guess that the shielded cable doesn’t matter a whole lot for the length we are talking and where it is or we’d be hearing from people who didn’t use it having interference showing up on the screen.
 
Install went ok today until I started bolting on the wings. Any chance these are the wrong wings - maybe from the older design? They stick back into the wheel well and stick out too wide IMO. What do you think? I suppose I will tidy things up tomorrow without the wings installed and drive it that way for a bit.

Center section seems to fit just fine. I did have to trim away part of the grill center support bracket as the winch was hitting it.
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But this is odd...so I stopped cutting.
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Another angle:
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And another:
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Odd for sure. Not right. Is the third pic of the rear bumper? Doesn’t look like the same corner. What year LX?

I can’t help you much as I have a 2013 LC and only have the rear Dissent bumper.
 
Odd for sure. Not right. Is the third pic of the rear bumper? Doesn’t look like the same corner. What year LX?

I can’t help you much as I have a 2013 LC and only have the rear Dissent bumper.
The pics are all different angles of the left wing on the front bumper. 2013 LX.
 
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Did I screw this up?

While working on trimming and reinstalling the mud flaps I realized I for got to install the bolts in the photo below. The issue is that there is about 1/4" gap between the wing and the bracket with the captive nuts. Was I supposed to pull the wings forward so that they contacted the bracket? That would shift the whole thing 1/4" to the rear. I really like how everything else lines up and fits. Maybe it wouldn't be too hard to loosen everything and pull it all forward but I'd rather not. Maybe I could cut some 1/4" aluminum spacers or just stack washers to fill the gap?

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Did I screw this up?

While working on trimming and reinstalling the mud flaps I realized I for got to install the bolts in the photo below. The issue is that there is about 1/4" gap between the wing and the bracket with the captive nuts. Was I supposed to pull the wings forward so that they contacted the bracket? That would shift the whole thing 1/4" to the rear. I really like how everything else lines up and fits. Maybe it wouldn't be too hard to loosen everything and pull it all forward but I'd rather not. Maybe I could cut some 1/4" aluminum spacers or just stack washers to fill the gap?

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I don’t think your bumper is gonna fall if it I would not go that route.

FWIW I just recently realigned my whole bumper because I wasn’t happy how the tire carrier was sitting on the strike plate and found it super easy third time around. I just loosened everything and set the position with a floor Jack end then retightened.

There is probably more than enough slack to get it back another 1/4”.
 
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