Dissent Front/Rear Bumper install instructions (LX)

[raincityrider]

Houston temps dropped from 104 down to 89, so I figured it would be a good time to finally relocate the stock rear camera.

Also took the opportunity to run a wire for an additional rear camera that @BloggerL recommended. I've had my eye on a similar system for a while for recording maniac Houston drivers, but also like the higher view that I'll get since stock is dropping so low.

- Remove all the hatch plastics.
- remove stock camera and install Dissent blank plate.
- fish new wire to be used for camera relo. I had some Cat6 24awg stranded cable on hand. You can run 48v Cameras and Access points through that stuff. Should be good enough for this...

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Hey @radman ,
How did you run the wire from interior/ under the molding to the outside/ undercarriage? How it isn't too complicated with my drawer system installed.

 

[radman]

Hey @radman ,
How did you run the wire from interior/ under the molding to the outside/ undercarriage? How it isn't too complicated with my drawer system installed.

Wire from hatch, up to the main body through stock wire loom/grommet, down side panel (drawers might have to come out to get to the side panel grommet at the floor which will take you down under the rig. Then, across to the middle of the bumper.

 

[raincityrider]

Wired up the rear lights! Almost used @grinchy-meister's junction box method, but then decided to just tap in and call it a day. Found some sweet low-heat solder/ shrunk connectors that are a lot thinner than regular butt crimping. Also had some 5 strand solid sprinkler wire on hand and figured that if it was good enough for direct burial, it would do fine hidden in a bumper.

The lights didn't come with a wiring diagram (or the kids lost it) so it took a hot minute to decode them.

Here's the stock wires you'll need:
White = ground
Blue = brake
Yellow = reverse
Green = taillights (Running lights)


Here's the wiring for the new lights:

Left light
White - Ground
Black - Reverse
Red - Brake
Brown - Tail/ Running
Yellow - Turn

Right side
White - Ground
Black - Reverse
Red - Brake
Brown - Tail/ Running
Green - Turn

Unfortunately, the turn wires can't be tapped from the trailer harness since those are designed for a single brake light that flash for turning. A single wire will be pulled from each tail light down to the exposed wire, then properly connected.



Orbit 57094 5Strd 50' Sprinkler Wire, 50 Feet
Amazon product ASIN B00004S1V1
TICONN 150 PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, Waterproof and Insulated

Amazon product ASIN B07HCNTZ2Z
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@radman Which wire did you tap from the tail lights? Green?

 

[raincityrider]

Sorry brain fart. Which wire at the plug?
White, Blue, Red, or Green?

 

[tbisaacs]

Why not use a converter on the trailer plug?

 

[raincityrider]

Sorry brain fart. Which wire at the plug?
White, Blue, Red, or Green?

I sorted it out and did a little ghetto jump. hope it holds

 

[radman]

I sorted it out and did a little ghetto jump. hope it holds

Yea, I don’t know if anyone has gone all the way to the actual lights. Props.

I initially went with a $20 curt converter like @tbisaacs mentioned, but I tapped into the driver side BOX when I was adding some USB ports back there. There should be a link to the thread I used somewhere in here, but I’ll be back to link it.

 

[Quat]

I probably would have gone that route if I knew that detail, but I don't think I care enough to go through all that. I certainly don't care enough to pay any additional cost. I spent the first day doing disassembly, and full bumper install which was 3pm-9pm. The next day I cut and fit the OEM bumper (which I had fully removed btw), wiring up the lights/parking sensors and reassemble the OEM skids and engine bay covers. I think I did that from about 1pm-4-5pm. So in total I guess 10 hours or so. Weather was so nice and I was enjoying the days so I wasn't working super fast. I had a hell of a time trying to figure out what bolts went where. I either got some wrong bolts or I didn't understand where they are supposed to go bc I had to get 3-4 new bolts from the store and I had a few extra at the end.... But it seems all good, as long as there are a bunch of bolts holding everything together tight its fine. I also struggled a little with getting everything aligned (wings/middle/recovery points). I got it really close but I finally just ran a drill bit through 2 holes so the bolt would slide through easier. The whole project was actually easier than I anticipated and I could do it again in much less time. Another comment, I wish I was aware of the radiator skid plate, I think that is something I would have liked to put on and probably will add at some point.

This is a great point, Im sure that could work. Isn't it just amazing how this huge grill and bumper is basically suspended from only a few snap clips and maybe a few screws and small bolts? Its just crazy to me how little it takes to attach such a huge body panel. So yea, I suppose I may be over estimating the importance of that support bar. I just can't help but think that flimsy plastic needs help staying in place.

Well I took one look at that and am already over the idea, to complicated for me... However it is funny how I don't mind installing a whole bumper but think other things are too much trouble,

How did you handle going from the 4 wires on the stock fogs to the 2 on the rigid?

 

[radman]

How did you handle going from the 4 wires on the stock fogs to the 2 on the rigid?

what year are you? my '15 only had 2 wires.
Have any pics?

 

[Quat]

what year are you? my '15 only had 2 wires.
Have any pics?

It's a '17, at first glance it looks like during the face lift they converted the fog lights to also function as the DRL's. If the image isn't clear, there is a thick green, thin green, thin pink and thin white with black stripe. One green looks like it comes from IG, which I assume is DRL, the other from the FOG relay. W-B to ground and pink is labelled CRPL on the light on the wiring diagram, which I haven't figured out yet.

 

[radman]

traditionally, Toyota uses white with black stripe for ground, and green for illumination (which you've already figured out).
You should be able to just splice those onto the Rigid harness and tape off the other 2.

 

[Quat]

Thanks, I figured that was a possibility but wasn't sure.

Was curious how to retain the fog lights, and it looks like the pink wire is for cornering lights.

The simple answer looked like simply combining them all (minus ground), but seemed like it would be too easy.

Took a closer look at the wiring harness on the light itself, which I should have done earlier, and that is exactly how it's done on the factory setup.

 

[raincityrider]

How did you handle going from the 4 wires on the stock fogs to the 2 on the rigid?

what year are you? my '15 only had 2 wires.
Have any pics?

My 2010 only has 2 wires too.

 

[raincityrider]

It's a '17, at first glance it looks like during the face lift they converted the fog lights to also function as the DRL's. If the image isn't clear, there is a thick green, thin green, thin pink and thin white with black stripe. One green looks like it comes from IG, which I assume is DRL, the other from the FOG relay. W-B to ground and pink is labelled CRPL on the light on the wiring diagram, which I haven't figured out yet.

Mine were Green and white. I remember that.

 

[radman]

Surgery coming soon, but for now, some glamour shots of the LX redesign (I believe the new LC model uses the same center section, but different wings).

Weights:
Center - 29lbs
Wings - 28lbs (14 each)
Mounting Points (recovery points), all steel - 41lbs
Hardware (nuts and bolts) - 5lbs

103lbs

 

[radman]

These are the steel parts that make her “hybrid”

 

[radman]

103lbs - 42lbs of stock crash bar and plastic bits = net gain of 61lbs

 

[grinchy]

So no installed pics yet?

 

[radman]

I have a no-nonsense 40” Rigid Adapt up top, so I opted to go with a much more economical Rigidhorse 32” light for the bumper

The Dissent website advertises a 30” bar, and their brackets measure a 31.75” opening.
The china knockoff is exactly 32”, so a tiny bit of bracket bending was needed to accommodate the 1/4”.

Amazon product ASIN B07MCNYXFT

 

[teejnut]

I have a no-nonsense 40” Rigid Adapt up top, so I opted to go with a much more economical Rigidhorse 32” light for the bumper

The Dissent website advertises a 30” bar, and their brackets measure a 31.75” opening.
The china knockoff is exactly 32”, so a tiny bit of bracket bending was needed to accommodate the 1/4”.

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Amazon product ASIN B07MCNYXFT

How come you swapped to the newer bumper? And thanks for posting pics instructions. About to start installing mine. Done two Dissents front on GX470 so it's somewhat similar.