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Rancho RS9000XL shocks with air control to adjust stiffness. I know people aren't too fond of Rancho, but these have worked great for me for years.What's that red line / sensor thing on the shock absorber?
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Rancho RS9000XL shocks with air control to adjust stiffness. I know people aren't too fond of Rancho, but these have worked great for me for years.What's that red line / sensor thing on the shock absorber?
Here ya go.Looks great! I’m looking to do something very similar. I tried to send Poser an IM but it’s not letting me. (Perhaps I haven’t posted enough times for that privilege?) I would like to buy his rear brackets and rotors as well. Can you suggest another method to contact him? Thanks!
Thanks. The website is under construction though. Not seeing a contract link or anything. Just links to other vendors/ manufacturers. I also tried calling the phone number but got an "all circuits busy" message.Here ya go.
hmm...Thanks. The website is under construction though. Not seeing a contract link or anything. Just links to other vendors/ manufacturers. I also tried calling the phone number but got an "all circuits busy" message.
Which part number did you use, if I may ask? 47201-60540 (BMT303)? I believe that is the correct part number for a 8/92 - 5/94 non-ABS FZ80, and that is what I see a lot of people on the forum recommending. However, both Cityracer and JT Outfitters say that the 47201-60551 (BMT-046) is the one to use with 4 wheel disc conversions, but it is listed for vehicles WITH ABS.The non-ABS FZJ80 master cylinder comes stock with the right residual pressure for discs on all four wheels; if you use this master then you won't have to change or worry about residual valves.
I agree on Poser's kit. I just did mine over the weekend, and it couldn't have gone better.-Used Poser's rear disc kit. Rotors, brackets, soft lines, and seals. Great quality and price, highly recommended.
-Used Delco rebuilt rear calipers for 1984 Monte Carlo
Even with use of "just" the Monte Carlo calipers, you will see many people reporting the need to add a proportioning valve to keep the rears from locking up. If you put even bigger calipers in the back, I would think that problem is going to be magnified. Plus, the Monte Carlo calipers are available everywhere, and cost about $22 each. Personally I am stoked that the whole thing can be done with Chevy parts.I plan on doing something like this in the near future as well. My question is why go through all the work to end up using Monte Carlo car calipers? It would seem to make more sense to make a bracket that would use the same calipers as the OEM later model 40's use on the front. Unless I am missing something here, we can make a bracket to use Monte Carlo caliper then we can make a bracket to use Toyota caliper. Maybe someone has tried this and for some odd reason that I am not aware of they are not a good option. If this is the case, it would be great to have some feedback on why.
I'm not knocking the system in any way and I agree with you on the ease of putting the system together with those parts for a really affordable pricetag. I know there are lots of people running this set up for sure and they all seem to like it. . I'm thinking that when it comes time for a 4 wheel brake job I would rather order 2 left calipers of the same part number and 2 right calipers of the same part number all for the same application. Just seems like it would be easier to keep track of what you need when it comes time to place orders.Even with use of "just" the Monte Carlo calipers, you will see many people reporting the need to add a proportioning valve to keep the rears from locking up. If you put even bigger calipers in the back, I would think that problem is going to be magnified. Plus, the Monte Carlo calipers are available everywhere, and cost about $22 each. Personally I am stoked that the whole thing can be done with Chevy parts.
Just my impression.
Are the bleeder valves on top of the caliper?I agree on Poser's kit. I just did mine over the weekend, and it couldn't have gone better.
One question: Did you have to grind the calipers to get them in the brackets that way? I wanted to use the orientation that you did, but the calipers would only fit into the brackets one way, due to a nub on the casting of the caliper. If I flipped the bracket over from the orientation you used, it worked great, without any grinding, and it ended up looking like this:
View attachment 2608691
In retrospect it is not a problem, and it allowed me to route the hoses around the back and over the top of the axle housing. I am going to weld the tombstone tabs right to the top of the housing just inboard of the brackets. So the hoses will be well-protected. I suppose the calipers are in a slightly more vulnerable location than on yours, but I don't do any serious rock crawling, and as you can see it is a spring-under and I am not planning on changing that.
Yes, the bleeder valves on the monte carlo calipers are on top when installed correctly.Are the bleeder valves on top of the caliper?
If not, proper bleeding is almost impossible.
Howdie..One question: Did you have to grind the calipers to get them in the brackets that way? I wanted to use the orientation that you did, but the calipers would only fit into the brackets one way, due to a nub on the casting of the caliper. If I flipped the bracket over from the orientation you used, it worked great, without any grinding, and it ended up looking like this:
Which part number did you use, if I may ask? 47201-60540 (BMT303)? I believe that is the correct part number for a 8/92 - 5/94 non-ABS FZ80, and that is what I see a lot of people on the forum recommending. However, both Cityracer and JT Outfitters say that the 47201-60551 (BMT-046) is the one to use with 4 wheel disc conversions, but it is listed for vehicles WITH ABS.
To further complicate that, I just read that you don't want to use an ABS M/C without an ABS module inline, something about retracting force on the calipers.
I'm just trying to make sure I get the right M/C from the start. I have a '73 40, and I just did a minitruck front disc conversion using 60 rotors and V6 calipers, and also rears with Monte Carlo calipers. I've read that not all FZ80s had discs in the rear, so the later 60551 M/C for 4 wheel disc vehicles seems like it might be more appropriate (except for the ABS question). I'm wondering if running that one instead of the 60540 might reduce or eliminate the need for a proportioning valve.
Just looking for some clarity.
Yes I did have to grind that nub off the caliper. My train of thought was, that I wanted the hardware as high as I could get it. That may not be a concern for many. Grinding was a little concern too, as the sealing surface for the brake line is next to the nub, so one slip of the grinder and your caliper might be FUBAR.
Thank you for the info. I have conflicting info on the M/C you're referring to here. I saw at another place on this forum that this was for non-abs disc/disc, but CityRacer's site says it is disc/drum. Furthermore, CityRacer specifically recommends the 60551 for disc/disc installations, and that is the only one on their site for which they make that recommendation. That leads me to wonder if there is something different about it, and whether it might possibly preclude or minimize the need for a proportioning valve.This is the exact part I bought from Cruiser Outfitters:
Brake Master Cylinder - Fits 8/1992 - 5/1994 8x Series Without ABS (BKN60540N) - https://cruiserteq.com/brake-master-cylinder-fits-8-1992-5-1994-8x-series-without-abs-bkn60540n/
It works perfectly; a great improvement in braking over the stock master cyl. I am using it with a Wilwood proportioning valve.
Thank you for the info. I have conflicting info on the M/C you're referring to here. I saw at another place on this forum that this was for non-abs disc/disc, but CityRacer's site says it is disc/drum. Furthermore, CityRacer specifically recommends the 60551 for disc/disc installations, and that is the only one on their site for which they make that recommendation. That leads me to wonder if there is something different about it, and whether it might possibly preclude or minimize the need for a proportioning valve.
I'm far from a Cruiser guru, but I have gathered that there were some disc/drum 80's. Plus the whole ABS/non-ABS question keeps nagging me.
I appreciate all of the feedback!