Disc brake conversion, again... (1 Viewer)

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Please take and post lots of pictures. I’ll be doing this in the early fall on my 78. TIA
Hey buddy, I'll do my best on that. I tend to get wrapped up in the task at hand, but I'll try to keep clicking off photos as I go.

So far I know that an FJ80 Booster and MC will physically bolt up with a little effort. And that Poser has the best parts, prices and knowledge on rear disc components.

Will pass along all I can when I'm done. :cheers:
 

JDNs78FJ40

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Awesome! I have the rear end part complete, parts from Poser. Only thing I didn’t do was longer wheel studs. Didn’t find out about that until it was all back together. Sad I’ll have to eventually do that. I’m really Curious how the brake line routing goes once MC and booster are installed. My body is out for paint right now.
 
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Awesome! I have the rear end part complete, parts from Poser. Only thing I didn’t do was longer wheel studs. Didn’t find out about that until it was all back together. Sad I’ll have to eventually do that. I’m really Curious how the brake line routing goes once MC and booster are installed. My body is out for paint right now.
Ohh! I wasn't aware of that. Good to know! now I owe you one. I think I'll give it a try first without a proportioning valve, then probably rework it when it needs one. I'll pass along what I find out. 👍
 

JDNs78FJ40

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Ohh! I wasn't aware of that. Good to know! now I owe you one. I think I'll give it a try first without a proportioning valve, then probably rework it when it needs one. I'll pass along what I find out. 👍
I have to pull the whole rear end apart to do longer studs so if you have yet to put the axles in you are in good shape. Good luck with the brakes.
 

pb4ugo

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I usually put a lug nut on the end of the stud to protect the threads on the stud and smack it with a hammer to remove it. And use a washer and a lug nut on backwards to pull the new stud in the hole.
 

JDNs78FJ40

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I usually put a lug nut on the end of the stud to protect the threads on the stud and smack it with a hammer to remove it. And use a washer and a lug nut on backwards to pull the new stud in the hole.
now I just need to track down the correct longer studs and start another project. :-/
 

pb4ugo

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When I swapped mine I used Dorman #610-414. They were about a 1/4" longer, but the Knurl is different. You wont find an exact match. Other folks have used other studs. You might search "this forum" with that number, and ill bet youll find other threads that reference other numbers.
 
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Can be done without pulling axles; been there, done that. Used a balljoint press and an impact. Needed changed to longer units for adding discs and wheel offset. So much easier than whamming with a sledge. I think one of the car parts store will rent it.

Studs were Dormans, would have to chase down the # but no issues with knurls that I remember. There is a circular tool with bearings for install that works much better the pulling them with just the nuts and washers. Worth the extra green since you're doing 12. I actually swapped out both front and rear, though the fronts I did on my press.
 
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Last edited:
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Copper-nickel works well and is easier to bend than steel if you believe what you read. I understand you need to be careful of kinking ( softer?). I haven't used it personally but have researched quite a bit; I used steel and completely redid my lines for the hydroboost install - all hydraulics including clutch in fact. Steel will need a straightener tool to handle unrolling the coil into nice straight lines. These are a great investment if you have a lot of projects with hydraulic lines to do. Used it on my Mach I and my deuce and a half as well.

The copper-nickel is supposed to bend well. There are tons of internet postings on using the copper-nickel on the web if you search and it is popular. Many sing its praises. Performs as well as any in my understanding.

If by chance you swerve to stainless, that's a whole different ballgame and fittings. Not really needed for an FJ. Go for it with the Cu-Ni.
 
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Thanks for all that great info. It helps me a lot and I'm sure others as well. I'll just have a few small sections to do so will probably go with the easy stuff. Thanks bud.
 
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Thanks for all that great info. It helps me a lot and I'm sure others as well. I'll just have a few small sections to do so will probably go with the easy stuff. Thanks bud.
I’ve got a roll of steel left I got from a friend’s project. I’ve not tried straightening it yet, but with the right tools it bends easy enough. I’d highly recommend a pair of the pliers that allow for tight radius bends.

On rigs the age of ours it’s recommended to replace all the lines. When I replaced my frame I upgraded to rust free lines from a ‘77... so far I’ve focused on the lines near the axles. One day though.
 

pb4ugo

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I use the nicop like you pictued. You might need more fittings though. On my 40 I use the nicop on the frame and body brakelines. It bends and flares easy. I use steel lines on the axle. On the trail these lines are in vulnerable locations and I think nicop can be crushed and kinked to easily.
 

1911

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Hi 1911. Which brake tubing did you use? Lots of different options.. I'm currently looking at this copper-nickel.

Copper-Nickle was my first choice, but my local NAPA didn't have any the day I was there so I just bought steel. Worked fine, though you do need a tubing bender so as not to kink it. If you're careful, you can also use the tubing bender to straighten also, but it may take some work and practice to make the straight runs look really nice.
 
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Conversion underway...

Disc brackets, rotors, and soft brake lines from Poser. Poser's install thread is very helpful.

AC Delco calipers and pads from Rockauto (it took a little grinding on the Caliper, as expected)

Copper-Nickle brake lines and 10mmx1.0 fittings from Amazon.

Titan double-flare brake tool from Amazon.

Currently waiting on new thrust washers, center spacer, and C-clips for the differential. Found some wear when I was in there...

and used spider and side gears from "pardion". Great price BTW. Thanks pardi

Recently installed FJ80 master cylinder and brake booster.


I'll post up links to the above parts if anyone is interested. I shopped around a bunch and think I found pretty good prices.
Big shoutout to Poser, who provides quality parts, great customer service, and good price to boot. 👍

Thanks for the help all. B.

disc.jpg
 

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